Handgun General - /hg/ - Info

@h@Handgun General - /hg/ -  Info Pastebin


@h@1: Treat all guns as if they are loaded.
@h@2: Keep your finger off the trigger until you're ready to shoot.
@h@3: Don't point a gun at anything you don't intend to kill or destroy.
@h@4: Be sure of your target and what's behind it.


@h@Table of Contents
Links
List of recommended firstguns in each of several price brackets
Handgun Buyer's Guide
Holster Buyer’s Guide
List of reputable retailers, outlets, resellers and auctioneers
Glossary of handgun and firearm terms
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@h@Links
Printable Targets:
filedropper.com/targets

Handgun Optics Mount Pattern Guide:
https://i.imgur.com/5kaT8Kc.png

Night sight manufacturer data:
https://i.imgur.com/D2Y3fRh.png

“Is it too big to carry?” Gun size comparison:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=67157
https://www.handgunhero.com

"How much should I pay for _____?"
https://gun.deals
https://i.imgur.com/S5tSqGB.jpg

Ammo Search Engines
https://ammoseek.com
http://www.gunbot.net



@h@Recommended firstguns by price bracket:
* denotes used

$200 and under
- Hi Point C9/JHP/JCP
- Taurus G2C

$200-300
- Beretta U22 Neos
- Bersa Thunder 380
- Ruger EC9/American/Mark I-III*/LCP series/P89-P96*/Security 380
- Sarsilmaz B6 series/SAR9
- Smith & Wesson M&P series*/SD9 VE
- Taurus G3/G3C/GX4/TX22

$300-400
- Beretta APXA1
- Bersa Thunder Pro Series/TPR Series
- Browning Buckmark
- Canik TP9 series
- CZ CZ82*/CZ83*
- Girsan Regard
- Glock (anything)*
- Ruger Mark IV/Security 9/SR22
- Smith & Wesson M&P series/SW22 Victory
- Stoeger Cougar

$400-500
- 1911 by Armscor, ATI, Cimarron, Citadel, Girsan, Rock Island Armory or Tisas
- Arex Zero 1 series
- Beretta 92 series*/M9 series*/PX4 series
- Canik TP9 series
- CZ P-07/P-09/P-10 series/Kadet
- FN FNP*/503
- Grand Power K100/P1
- Ruger LCR series
- Sig P2022/P365
- Smith & Wesson 3900 series*/4000 series*/4500 series*/5900 series*/6900 series*/M&P M2.0 series
- Springfield Armory XD series
- Steyr C/M/L/S series

$500-700
- Beretta 92 series/92X series/M9 series
- CZ75 series by CZ, Tanfoglio, Kriss, Sphinx or IMI*/IWI
- FN FNS/FNX/509 series
- Glock (anything)
- HK VP9/P30 series/P2000
- Sig P6*/P225*/P226*/P229*
- Springfield SA35
- Walther P99*/PDP/PPQ series

$700-1000
- 1911 by Colt, Magnum Research, Ruger, Springfield Armory, Smith & Wesson
- Beretta 92Xi/M9A3/M9A4
- CZ75 series by CZ or Tanfoglio
- HK P8A1/HK45/USP series
- Sig P210 Standard/P220 series/P226/P229

$1000+
- 1911 or 2011 by Ed Brown, Dan Wesson, Fusion, Hayes Custom, Les Baer, Masterpiece Arms, Nighthawk, Staccato or Wilson Combat
- Beretta 92X Performance
- CZ Shadow or TS series
- Dan Wesson DWX
- FK Brno PSD
- HK USP Tactical/Expert/Match/Mark 23
- Sig P210 Target/P226 X series
- Tanfoglio Stock series

Ludicrous+
- 2011 by Atlas, Brazos, Infinity, Limcat, McLearn or Phoenix Trinity
- Colt Python
- FK Brno Field Pistol
- HK P7 series
- Laugo Alien
- Manurhin MR73
- Mateba (anything)

* denotes used



@h@Handgun Buyer's Guide
This guide is split into four sections: Picking a Handgun, Used Evaluation, FFL purchase, Private Party Purchase

First of all, as the first line of ATF Form 4473 states, you cannot purchase or transfer a firearm if you are prohibited from doing so by state or federal law.  If you have a criminal history including but not limited to a felony conviction carrying possible a prison sentence of greater than one year, a misdemeanor conviction carrying a possible sentence of more than two years, unlawful use of a controlled substance (marijuana is still federally illegal), a dishonorable discharge, being legally adjudicated mentally unfit, or any history of domestic abuse you may not own or possess a firearm in any state.  You are strongly advised to thoroughly read and understand ATF Form 4473 while filling it out, and answer truthfully under penalty of felony charges (5 years imprisonment; 18 USC § 1001).


@h@Picking a Handgun
What's the best handgun to buy?  It's not such a simple question because there is no "best," only what's best for you.  You should have some use in mind; concealed carry, target shooting, cosplay, plinking, open carry, range toy, competition, hunting or general use.

- Mechanism
The two primary mechanisms you’ll encounter are striker fired and hammer fired.  Typically the latter is found in a DA/SA configuration with a decοcker and/or safety.  This means the first pull is a long, heavy double action for safety and each subsequent shot is a short, lighter pull for precision.  Strikers in comparison have the same short lighter trigger pull for every shot.  Typically speaking, a hammer fired pistol has a nicer single action pull than a striker which comes at the cost of its initial heavy double action pull.  There are exceptions; the Walther P99 is a striker pistol with a full DA/SA trigger and decοcker, and there are many types of single action only (SAO ) and double action only (DAO) hammer fired pistols such as 1911s and Kahrs, which have only one trigger pull instead of both DA and SA.
For the purposes of brevity we won’t describe any further mechanisms beyond HK’s LEM trigger, which is significant because it combines the aspects of both mechanisms.  It is hammer fired with an emergency double-action mode, however the first pull is no different from all subsequent pulls.  In this way the LEM mechanism acts like a striker, despite being hammer fired.  There are several other types of mechanisms,  variants and examples of these which the general consoomer isn’t missing out on by ignoring as there are much more important things to consider when buying a firstgun.  If you are the oddball type however, this may be something to ask about.

- Size
Pick a frame size first. Full size handguns generally offer longer grips, higher capacity magazines and longer barrels, all of which are good qualities for plinking, competition, open carry, target shooting, hunting, home defense, duty, open carry and general use.  Examples: Beretta 92FS, HK USP, 1911, CZ 75
Semi-compacts usually still have long enough grips that fingers aren't left without purchase, they may accommodate fewer rounds (~2-3 less) and have may shorter barrels than a full size.  Those qualities are better suited to concealed carry, home defense, open carry, duty, plinking and general use.  Examples: Walther P99, CZ P-01, Commander 1911, Glock 45
Compacts typically have shorter grips with slightly lower magazine capacity than semi-compacts (~2-3 less) and typically have even shorter barrels as well, good qualities for easier concealed carry, home defense and general use.  Examples: HK USP Compact, Glock 19, Taurus G2C, Beretta APX Centurion
Sub-compacts usually have very short two-finger grips for easier concealment, even fewer rounds (~1-2 less) and even shorter barrels than compacts resulting in lighter weight.  Those are good qualities for even easier concealment.  Note that what one manufacturer calls a “compact” might be the size of a “sub-compact” from another manufacturer.  Examples: HK VP9SK, Walther PPQsc, Glock 26, Smith & Wesson Shield
Pocket guns are very small, thin, nearly always single stack, with very short barrels; good qualities for deep concealment or easy concealment under light clothing.  Examples: Sig P238, Ruger LCP, Kel-Tec PF-9, Kahr P380

- Caliber
This is tough to get into without getting into specifics or stepping on anyone's toes so the writer won't even try: 9mm is the most practical and effective handgun cartridge for nearly all purposes.  Using top mainstream defensive ammunition (Winchester Ranger-T, PDX1, Speer Gold Dot, Remington Golden Saber, Hornady Critical Defense, Federal HST and Hydra-Shok), 9mm has excellent penetration and reliable expansion while offering greater capacity than larger calibers.  9mm offers a wide range of projectile weights, types and loads for a variety of purposes from plinking to hunting.

To be clear, there is nothing particularly wrong with other common handgun calibers like .40 S&W, .45 ACP, .357 Sig, 10mm or even .380.  However for most purposes the capacity of 9mm outweighs the benefits of these calibers, as "knock-down power" and "terminal ballistics" are not significantly different among common handgun calibers.  If you decide that a particular firearm fits your needs, wants or budget and is available in any of these calibers, there's no reason you shouldn't buy it.  However the move of FBI and police from 10mm, .45, .40S&W and .357 Sig back to 9mm is happening for good reason (this is why there are so many .40S&W surplus handguns on the market as of late 2017).

- Ergonomics
Ergonomics are somewhat difficult to nail down, because when you pick up a gun you "like," you're going to WANT to like it and you may overlook its flaws or uncomfortable features.  Ideally a handgun should be comfortable to hold, have controls easily reached, point naturally and have usable sights.  You won't be able to determine this without using your hands and eyes.  Whether you make a purchase there or not, go to a gun store and handle some guns.  Use popular, readily available handguns as a springboard to decide what you do and don't like.  Be critical.  Does the grip angle feel natural to you?  Does it hurt your hand someplace?  Do all your fingers have purchase?  Can you reach the controls?  Can you easily rack the slide?  Does your resting thumb prevent the slide stop from working?  Can you reach the magazine release without altering your grip?  Do you like the sights?  Is the trigger uncomfortably far forward when at rest?  Does the trigger break cleanly or smoothly?

There's a ton of subjectivity here, so you're going to have to handle a lot, shoot a lot, and develop preferences of your own to inform future purchases.

If you're able to choose a frame size, caliber and ergonomics, you should have a relatively small list of handguns.  If you aren't able to choose, then take other people's advice: popular handguns like the Smith & Wesson M&P, Glock 19, FN FNX, Beretta 92, CZ75, Walther PPQ and HK VP9 are popular for good reason.


@h@Used Evaluation
If you don't know what you're looking for, determining whether a gun is worth what the buyer is asking can be tough, especially over the internet.  Protip: "only 200 rounds" is code for 1,000+ rounds.

Simply put, you won't be an overnight expert when purchasing your first used handgun.  But some simple things to look for are noticeably weak recoil or hammer springs, chipped or broken extractors, excessive slide rail wear, surface finish wear (especially holster wear on the corners, rust, pitting, scratches and wood grip cracks), bore pitting or shallow, dull rifling, dings from drops (especially on the sights and grip panels) and "custom work" (which usually means home-gunsmith botched internals--be VERY wary of anything "custom").

The simplest way to ballpark an accurate, fair value is simply to look the gun up in as many markets as you can.  Call stores, visit Gunbroker, Armslist, Gun Auction, Guns America, Backpage, Craigslist.  Check for-sale forums on ar15.com, m4carbine.net, glocktalk.com, hkpro.com, northwestfirearms.com, ingunowners.com, pafoa.com, calguns.com, anywhere you might find used guns for sale.


@h@FFL (Federal Firearms License) Purchase
Buying from a Store
 Most handguns you buy will come through an FFL, whether you are buying online or in a store.  The process of buying a gun from a gun store is simple before state laws are satisfied:
- Be 21 or older
- Pick a gun
- Truthfully complete ATF Form 4473
- Provide ID (accepted types vary by state law but a driver's license is always accepted)
- Wait for your background check (typically it takes 5-15 minutes but may be delayed as long as three days)
- Pay for the gun during or after the background check is completed

Buying Online
If you are buying from an online reseller or a private party in another state the only differences are that you will pay first and you will have to ask your local FFL to send their FFL info to the out-of-state source.  The firearm must be shipped to your local FFL for transfer, and once the firearm arrives locally, the process is otherwise the same:
- Be 21 or older
- Pick and pay for the gun online
- Contact your local FFL (gun dealer) and request that they send their FFL information to the contact address provided by the gun’s seller
- The gun will be shipped to your local FFL
- Truthfully complete ATF For 4473 once the gun arrives locally
- Provide ID (accepted types vary by state law but a driver's license is always accepted)
- Wait for your background check (typically it takes 5-15 minutes but may be delayed as long as three days)


Many states require that all transfers, including private ones, go through an FFL.  See the following page for an unofficial list of state laws:
http://consumer.findlaw.com/consumer-transactions/private-gun-sale-laws-by-state.html

Shipping, transfers and background checks cost money, so expect to pay a little extra for those things where applicable.  But don't let the store rope you in to pointless extra costs like ammo, cleaning gear, holsters, bags, cases or other accessories!  Those things can all be purchased elsewhere later, if needed, at lower prices.


@h@Private Party Purchase
There are no rules apart from the same federal firearm prohibitions and further state prohibitions, so it's up to you to be safe and prudent.  Unless required by state law, you are not required to perform or submit to a background check, provide a receipt or follow any guidelines.  Use your judgment; does it sound too good to be true?  Do they want to meet someplace strange, dark or empty?  Do they refuse your request for location, ID, written receipt or anything else?  Do they ask suspicious questions?  If anything feels the least bit fishy, cancel the transaction and wait for another buyer or seller.

Suggestions for a safe, painless private party transaction:
- Make certain both parties clearly agree to the price beforehand
- Meet someplace public, well lit and busy, like the parking lot corner of a police station, supermarket or strip mall
- If you wish, you may request to see ID or request the other party sign a written receipt
- Bring a friend but don't be intimidating
- Follow firearm safety rules and be polite

The writer of this pasteshit has done did several dozen private party transfers in parking lots and never once been taken advantage of, threatened, intimidated, cheated or robbed.  Gun owners tend to be upstanding, honorable citizens so treat them that way, but be prepared.



@h@Holster Buyers Guide
Buying a holster is a subjective, personal thing.  What works for somebody else might not work for you.  First and foremost understand that there may be a little or a lot of trial and error before you find the perfect holster.  If the first one you try doesn’t work out, don’t give up on carrying.  Try something different, whether that means just a different style, or a different location, or a differently sized handgun.  Secondly understand that some level of discomfort is associated with carry.  It may be almost none or it may be a lot depending on what, where and how you carry, and what you do throughout the day.  It’s not likely you’ll forget you’re wearing a handgun so don’t set your expectation of comfort too high.  But also don’t tolerate too much discomfort, there are alternative options, from IWB appendix Deagle to pocketing .32.
This is not meant to be a comprehensive or absolute guide, just enough to get you looking in the right direction.

- Holster Applications
Types of holsters typically aren’t limited to one type of carry.  For instance you could use an AIWB holster at 3:00, or trigger guard cover for IWB or pocket carry.  But generally a holster marketed as something has features tailored to that role.  So what role do you want to employ?  What you typically wear plays a large role in where you are able to carry.  Tight clothes, tucked in shirts and lack of overgarments limit your options.  You could dress to suit carry, or you could carry to suit what you wear.

IWB - Inside the Waistband.  Most common and accessible carry, can be comfortable standing or sitting, generally requires loose or untucked clothing.  Bumping objects can be a worry, likelyhood of printing is medium-low.  Typical location 2:00-4:00 on the belt.
AIWB - Appendix, Inside the Waistband.  Growing popularity for comfort while standing, low worry of bumping objects or printing, but less comfortable when sitting.  Typical location 10:00-2:00.
OWB - Outside the Waistband. Virtually no limitations if concealment is not a concern, if it is then an untucked long shirt or jacket can conceal nicely.  Bumping objects may be a worry, likelyhood of printing is high.  Typical location 2:00-4:00.
Pocket - Probably going to be limited by the size of your pocket opening.  Very easy, little preparation, comfortable.  A rigid holster is preferred for safety but a soft padded holster helps break up the shape of the gun.  Do not carry objects in pocket with gun.  Likelyhood of printing is medium, but likely to be ignored as a wallet or phone.
Purse - Largely similar to pocket carry, but with less size restriction.  A rigid holster is a good idea if purse carry is the only option, but carrying in a purse is a bad idea due to
Shoulder - Comfortable load distribution with a good holster, but requires an overgarment to cover the harness and holster.  Low likelyhood of printing or bumping objects.  Can be an option for formal dress where a tucked waistband would not permit IWB or AIWB and thin pants would display pocket carry.
Chest - Guide style carry is good if you are innawoods, especially if you have a rucksack with a waist strap that would not permit IWB, OWB or AIWB.
Ankle - If the gun is small and light enough this can be a short-term option but other locations are strongly preferred.
Lumbar - Difficult to reach under clothing, potential back injury if you fall on it.  Strongly discouraged.

- Holster Materials
Kydex/boltaron are generally going to be best because of the price, performance, rigidity and diversity you will get out of them.  They are rigid so they do not collapse on your trigger guard upon reholstering.  They perform better because they do not retain moisture.  They have solid retention even without an active retention mechanism like a thumb break or Safariland ALS/SLS.  There are diverse options because they are easy and inexpensive to make.
Leather, be prepared to spend $80+ for quality leather, and more for a shoulder or chest rig.  Horsehide is preferred for its stiffness over bull.
Neoprene/Nylon holsters are fine for pocket carry but are a bad idea for IWB/OWB use.  The materials are too soft/cheap and may collapse on your gun, retention is poor, active retention is insecure.
Cheap leather holsters are also fine for pocket carry but are a bad idea for IWB/OWB use.  The chief drawback to a leather holster is that it’s soft enough to deform into the trigger guard but still rigid enough to catch the trigger when holstering  and fire the pistol.

- Reputable Holster Brands

IWB - T-rex arms, Tier one, G-Code, Tenicor, Kerber Arms, Bravo Concealment, Raven Concealment, Vedder, Garrett, Phlster, JM Custom, ANR Designs, Milt Sparks
OWB - Safariland (ALS/SLS),  Bravo Cconcealment, Raven Concealment, Kramer Leather, Gunfighter Inc Kenai, Vedder, Garrett, El Paso Saddelry, Milt Sparks

- Belts
A good, rigid gun belt is essential to effective and comfortable carry.  Hanks, Beltman, El Paso Saddelry or Amish for leather.  Blue Alpha Gear for cobra buckle/nylon style.  Safariland makes a good faux leather concealment belt.




@h@Reputable retailers, outlets, resellers and auctioneers:
Auction sites:
ProxiBid, Gun Broker, Armslist*, Guns International, Gun Auction, Guns America,
*No charge to list

For-sale forums:
ar15.com, m4carbine.net, glocktalk.com, hkpro.com, northwestfirearms.com, southwestfirearms.com, ingunowners.com, pafoa.com, calguns.com, smith-wessonforum.com, forums.brianenos.com, rimfirecentral.com

You can trust the prices and honesty of these businesses (but it pays to shop around):
BROWNELLS, Aim Surplus, Classic Firearms, Centerfire Systems, Centerfire Guns, Palmetto State Armory, GrabAGun, Bud's, Tombstone Tactical, J&G Sales, Sportsman's Outdoor Superstore, Gun Buyer, Guns2Ammo, iAmmo, LockedLoaded, Impact Guns, Lanbo’s Armory, Guns Midwest, Shoot Straight, Simpson Ltd., Gun Prime



@h@Glossary of handgun and firearm terms

A trigger pull dissected:
1: Take up - Also known as slack or pre-travel.  The first, light portion of a single action trigger pull prior to staging wherein the trigger linkage is brought into contact with the sear, at which point pull weight increases.
2: Staging - Also known as the wall.  The point of a trigger pull subsequent to take up and just prior to the break wherein the trigger linkage is immobile and in contact with the sear, causing an increase in pull weight.  Any further pull will draw the sear off the hammer or striker, allowing a shot to be fired.
3: Break - The act of slipping the sear slipping off the hammer or striker--essentially, the shot being initiated.
4: Overtravel - The final portion of a trigger pull wherein the trigger continues to travel rearward after the break.
5: Reset - The portion of a trigger cycle subsequent to the shot being fired wherein the trigger is allowed to come forward under spring tension, allowing the sear to re-engage on the hammer or striker in preparation to break for the next shot.

Additional terms:
Battery - The position of the barrel and slide in relation to one another.  In battery meaning that the barrel is fully locked into the slide and ready to fire safely, out of battery meaning that the barrel is not fully locked into the slide and is unsafe to fire.

Creep - Also know as slop.  Describing the quality of a break wherein some movement is detected with the finger prior to the break.

Crisp - Describing the quality of a break wherein no movement is detected with the finger prior to the break.

Cycle - The complete procession of firing events by which the hammer or striker are cοcked, the trigger is pulled, the slide is reciprocated and the trigger is reset.  It is usually done without live ammunition in order to examine trigger qualities or perform safety function checks.

Decοcker - A spring powered rotating or linear active control in a firearm which allows the hammer or striker to discharge safely without striking the primer.  It is initiated manually.

Disconnector - A pivoting or linear component in a trigger group designed to prevent multiple  firing by holding the hammer or striker from releasing until it can be re-engaged by the sear independent of trigger position.

Double Action (DA) - A hammer mechanism wherein one pull of the trigger both cοcks and fires the firearm.  Double action pulls tend to be long and heavy.

Double/Single Action – A hammer mechanism wherein the first heavy pull of the trigger both cοcks and fires the firearm and all subsequent pulls are light and only fire the firearm without further cοcking.

Drop safety - Any number of mechanisms that passively prevent the firing of a handgun when dropped.  It is usually disengaged during trigger take up.

Extractor - A typically articulated claw in the slide whose job it is to grab onto the rim of a cartridge case and extract it from the barrel's chamber after firing.

Firing pin - An unpowered linear component in a firearm which is struck by a hammer, delivering force into the primer to discharge a shot.

Firing pin block - A spring powered linear passive mechanism in a firearm which prevents the firing pin or striker from striking a primer unintentionally.  It is usually disengaged during trigger take up.

Fully pre-charged - Similar to single action.  A striker mechanism wherein the striker is held completely cοcked.  The final pull only fires the firearm without further cοcking.

Grip safety - A spring powered pivoting passive mechanism in a firearm which prevents the trigger from moving the sear off the hammer or striker unintentionally.  It is disengaged by gripping a handgun.

Hammer - A spring powered rotating component in a trigger group which, once released, strikes the firing pin, discharging a shot.

Lock time - The time it takes after a break for the hammer or striker to initiate a primer and discharge a shot, usually measured in milliseconds.

Overtravel stop - A screw or bumper placed to prevent the trigger from continuing rearward after the break.

Partially pre-charged - Similar to double action.  A striker mechanism wherein the striker is held mostly cοcked.  The final portion of a trigger pull completes cοcking and fires the firearm.

Power stroke - To manually and forcefully rack the slide without finesse in order to clear a malfunction utilizing a minimal amount of attention.

Pull weight - The weight required to fully pull the trigger rearwards until it breaks.

Rack - To manually reciprocate the slide in order to load a new round, clear a malfunction or remove an unfired round.

Reset length - The distance that the trigger must come forward to allow the sear to reset for the next shot.

Safety - An unpowered rotating active control in a firearm which prevents the trigger from moving the sear off the hammer or striker.  It is engaged and disengaged manually.

Sear - A spring powered pivoting component in a trigger group which holds the hammer or striker in a cοcked position.

Single Action (SA) - A hammer mechanism wherein one pull of the trigger only fires the firearm without cοcking it.  Single action pulls tend to be short and light.

Single-stage - A rifle-specific term to describe one stage of trigger pull; break only with no cοcking done by the trigger.  Hammer-fired single-stage rifle triggers are short but tend to have creep and overtravel, striker-fired single-stage rifle triggers tend to be short, light and have little to no creep or overtravel.

Striker - A spring powered linear component in a trigger group which, once released, directly strikes the primer and initiates a shot.

Trigger linkage - Also known as a trigger bar.  An unpowered linear component in a trigger group which connects the trigger to the sear.

Trigger safety - A spring powered pivoting passive mechanism in a firearm which prevents the trigger from being pulled unintentionally.  It is disengaged by placing a finger on the face of the trigger.

Two-stage - A rifle-specific term similar to a pistol's single-action to describe two stages of trigger pull; take-up and break only with no cοcking done by the trigger.  Two-stage rifle triggers are longer but tend not to have any creep and little overtravel.