/brg/ guide v.03

/brg/ - Battle Rifle "guide" v.03 Alpha

I) INTRO

>What is a Battle Rifle?

"Battle rifle" is a post-World War II term for military service rifles that are fed ammunition via detachable magazines and fire a full-powered rifle cartridge.

>What the fuck is a "full powered" catriged?

A full-powered cartridge is a military battle rifle cartridge with a minimum effective range of 1,000 meters (3,300 ft). Most full-powered cartridges have their origin in the turn of the 19th century with the advent of smokeless powder. Examples include 7.62×51mm NATO, .30-06 Springfield, 7.62×54mmR, .303 British, 7.92×57mm Mauser, 7×57mm Mauser or 8mm Lebel.




II) List of Battle Rifles

a)
4 most common BRs on /brg/: AR-10s, PTR91, FAL, SCAR17s

AR-10 build: $500-$3,000 depending on parts selected. If you go this route you're admitting to everyone that you're a basic bitch. Only have (slight) bragging rights if you put money on an SR-25.  While there are solid AR-10 prebuild a word of caution: if you plan on building one from the ground up or upgrading an exiting one. AR-10s are not standardized like AR-15s. The two main patterns for the AR-10 are the DPMS and ARMALITE. Before building or upgrading this needs to taken into account. More on this in the Build Guide (

PTR-91/CEMETE/CENTURY*: $500-$1,200.  depending on what variant you choose. G3 clones. Probably the most popular BR in /brg/. PTR is going up in quality (barely but compared to how they were a decade ago at least). CHEAP MAGS ALL DAY EVERYDAY. Still cheap but people are starting to hoard so buy now. You're a poorfag and/or a NEET. Get this if you want a solid intro into Battle Rifles for a reasonable price. It’s a classic and has a lot of cold war surplus parts floating around that allows you to incrementally upgrade and tweak it as you please.

*Century Arms C308 - AM NOT ALLOW.

DSA SA58: $1,000-$2,000 depending on what variant you choose. FAL clone. You're basically playing the FAL lottery. You may get one that works fine, or one that has problems ranging from non-stop malfunctions to explosions. You can get the cheaper DSA Voyager and add after market parts (rear sight, hump stock, surplus flash hider, SAW or Mako grip, carry handle, (optional) railed dust cover, and baby poo paint. The voyager wont accept the boat anchor bipod though. Dont buy the Korean surplus mags they're trash. If you want to build a proper FAL from an old Parts kit know that its one of the more difficult rifles to put together and requires above average shops skills.

M14/M1A: ~$2,000. THE M16 IS DAMN BB GUN. IF WE NEVER SWITCHED TO THE DAMN WE WOULD HAVE WON NAM  Go be a Fudd somewhere else, FUDD! On a serious note it’s a fun BR and a classic to have but difficulty of properly mounting optics is a serious issues to consider when looking at one. This can be mitigated but it comes to how much time and money you want to spend on it. Also M1Afags are required to be boolied on /brg/ BUT in any other thread you have to defend them to the death.

FN SCAR-17: ~$3,000-3,500. Congratulations, you gucci-fag/rich-fag! You either make a lot of money working a moderately successful career, saved up money for a few years just for this one gun, or are running up your parents credit card you fucking Fornite Zoomer. Oh, and have fun spending another $1k-$3k on optics and other after market parts on this fucking cash cow. That all being said the Scar 17s is the best BR you can buy. It low recoil, reliability, ease of field stripping, and accuracy are second to none. After market parts are abundant but can add weight quick. Expect ~1.5 moa with surplus and 1 moa with match.

*Note: Scar-20s is NOT a Battle Rifle (feel free to post yours though to further dab on the poorfags)


b) Other Battle Rifles:

Type 64: Whatever a left nut to a yakuza translates to a USD. You're now the biggest weeb on /brg/

BAR: $1300-$20000 Depending on if you want a new semi auto clone or a 70 year old full auto. You have a rifle thats heavy as a boulder and that kicks like mual. youre either a retarded hipster/rich old fag/ or your grand daddy snuck one back from the war. Also not actually a Battle Rife. It was more of jack of all trades that functioned best as a SAW but it had quite a few variants. The Colt variant is probably closes to what would be thought of as actual BR.

SVT-40: $1,000-$2,000 depending on condition, variant, and how badly the Fudd wants to scam you. You want to larp a notoriously inaccurate Communist garbage rod for no logical reason, you fucking Communist.

Federov: $???. Okay, what museum did you break into. Be honest.

G43: $1,500-$3,000+ depending on condition and the year built. Congrats on buying a ridiculously expensive, and over-gased, mil-surp rifle! You either have too much money burning a hole in your pocket, have questionable political beliefs, or have an absolute hard-on for all the WW2 rifles that you can possibly get your hands on.

BM59 - $1100-$1700 Italian mod of the m1 grand. Its like foreign uncle to M1A/M14. Get it if you want want M1A but italiano spaghetti Ferrari pistachio editon

Desert Tech MDR - $2500 new Bullpulp 308 that everyone was super hyped for becuase it actually INNOVATED. Then Gen 1 got released and it was JAM CITY. lol Current Status: Waiting on reports from guinea pigs to see if the new 6 postion gas upgraded fixed it. Enjoy you special weapon you special boy.

BREN 2 in 308 - price TBD but ~$2700-3000 (probably) Its never ever coming out because you fucks cant keep a thread bumped and dirty slavs just want us to suffer. Fuck Love you frens!

Mosberg MVP 308: $500 "Its not a battle rifle till you go to battle. TURD BLOSSOM!"
https://youtu.be/K_H2m5OmDJI
https://youtu.be/Q9NuQXqC56s




III) OPTICS (WIP):

PA 1-8x Platinum, ACOGs, and Kahles k16i are BR approved.

Note: Scars are the (cheap) scope killer. With its insanely large bcg, it can knock an optic off center pretty quick and even damage the actual scope after a few hundred rounds. But it’s not as big a deal as some anons make out to be; and you're generally won’t have to worry about it as long as you have a decent optic.


VI) BUILD GUIDE

AR-10:


FAL:


G3:




VIII) Ammo

Quick note. The .308 is a civilian version of the 7.62 Nato. The .308 has a higher pressure than its military counterpart meaning all guns designated for .308 will except 7.62 but not all guns designated for 7.62 will function properly with .308. You shouldn’t have a problem even with most new rifles. Its just something to be aware of.

If your going hunting remember that lower grain for small game (ie East of the Mississippi white tail) and higher grain for big game (ie elk).

a) Surplus

Malaysian L2A2: Comes in air tight cans of either 300 or 540. From the late 70s but still maintain a strong seals and the most of the cans are in excellent condition with only minor cosmetic blemishes on the cartridge. Not reloadable. Solid ammunition all around. While being L2A2 variant wont affect its reliability in your rifle its trajectory may be different than what your expecting. This isnt so much of issue only worth noting because you’ll have to adjust your sights more than you’d expect from standard NATO ball ammo.

Austrian Hirtenberger: Made from the mid 70s to early 80s. Probably the best surplus on the market right now. Only downside is that it doesn’t come in a sealed can. The packaging is generally packs of 10 20 round boxes covered in sealed plastic bag with a cardboard cover over that. Price fluctuates quite a bit though so if you see it around ~$0.42 make sure to snatch it up. Worth noting that the older batches are berdan primed while new batches are boxer. The boxer prime will generally run a few cents more per round but if you reload it might be worth it to you.

Pakistani: Made under British Supervision during the Cold war. That generally a good sign but as of yet no one on /brg/ has tried any, so the jury is out.

Indian: Same as the Pakastani surplus but without the British supervision. Also rumor is it stinks (srsy).

Ethiopian: AVOID AT ALL COST. Its corrosive and its from Ethiopia. That’s all the info you need.

b) Match
To be added later

c) Steel

Tula and Wolf are the two most common steel manafacuters. (Though Wolf has started making a low cost Gold (brass) ammo.)  You can get it pretty cheap and on rare occasions you get some for <$0.30 ppr. Steel rounds elicit a variety of opinions. Some people swear by them other hate them with a passion. Generally PTRs have been found to tolerate them very well while some AR-10s have had issues with them. Other Battle Rifles have had mixed results. Again it depends on the build. While yes brass is better overall, if you can get away with using steel for plinking there isn’t anything wrong with it. Best bet it to buy a couple packs and test it for yourself and see how your rifle functions with it.



IV) To do list for next revision of pastebin

Properly Fill out a build guide for AR-10, FAL, G3. (VI. Build Guide)

Expand III) Optics

Add match ammo recommendations. (VIII AMMO section b)

 Fix spelling and grammar mistakes. Most of this is thrown on as a rough draft and needs to be properly edited. A more reader friendly format is probably down the road too

V) CONCLUSION

Remember we're all frens here.


~fin