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- TM 31-210
- Department of the Army Technical Manual
- IMPROVISED
- MUNITIONS
- HANDBOOK
- (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Headquarters, Department of the Army
- 1969 – original publication
- 2007 – Thanks-to-Feinstein's Electronic Edition (v3.0)
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Table of Contents
- Section 0 — Introduction
- 0.1 Purpose and Scope
- 0.2 Safety and Reliability
- 0.3 User Comments
- Section 1 — Explosives and Propellants (including igniters)
- 1.1 Plastic Explosive Filler
- 1.2 Potassium Nitrate
- 1.3 Improvised Black Powder
- 1.4 Nitric Acid
- 1.5 Initiator for Dust Explosions
- 1.6 Fertilizer Explosive
- 1.7 Carbon Tet – Explosive
- 1.8 Fertilizer AN-Al Explosive
- 1.9 “Red or White Powder” Propellant
- 1.10 Nitric Acid/Nitrobenzene (“Hellhoffite”) Explosive
- 1.11 Optimized Process for Cellulose/Acid Explosives
- 1.12 Methyl Nitrate Dynamite
- 1.13 Urea Nitrate Explosive
- 1.14 Preparation of Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate)
- 1.15 Reclamation of RDX from C4
- 1.16 TACC (Tetramminecopper (II) Chlorate)
- 1.17 HMTD
- 1.18 Potassium or Sodium Nitrite and Litharge (Lead Monoxide)
- 1.19 DDNP
- 1.20 Preparation of Lead Picrate
- 1.21 Preparation of Picric Acid from Aspirin
- 1.22 Double Salts
- 1.23 Sodium Chlorate
- 1.24 Mercury Fulminate
- 1.25 Sodium Chlorate and Sugar or Aluminum Explosive
- Section 2 — Mines and Grenades
- 2.1 Pipe Hand Grenade
- 2.2 Nail Grenade
- 2.3 Wine Bottle Cone Charge
- 2.4 Grenade-Tin Can Land Mine
- 2.5 Mortar Scrap Mine
- 2.6 Coke Bottle Shaped Charge
- 2.7 Cylindrical Cavity Shaped Charge
- 2.8 Not Available
- 2.9 Funnel Shaped Charge
- 2.10 Linear Shaped Charge
- Section 3 — Small Arms Weapons and Ammunition
- 3.1 Pipe Pistol for 9 mm Ammunition
- 3.2 Shotgun (12 gauge)
- 3.3 Shotshell Dispersion Control
- 3.4 Carbine (7.62 mm Standard Rifle Ammunition)
- 3.5 Reusable Primer
- 3.6 Pipe Pistol for .45 Caliber Ammunition
- 3.7 Match Gun
- 3.8 Rifle Cartridge
- 3.9 Pipe Pistol for .38 Caliber Ammunition
- 3.10 Pipe Pistol for .22 Caliber Ammunition — Long or Short Cartridge
- 3.11 Low Signature System
- Section 4 — Mortars and Rockets
- 4.1 Recoilless Launcher
- 4.2 Shotgun Grenade Launcher
- 4.3 Grenade Launcher (57 mm Cardboard Container)
- 4.4 Fire Bottle Launcher
- 4.5 Grenade Launchers
- 4.6 60 mm Mortar Projectile Launcher
- Section 5 — Incendiary Devices
- 5.1 Chemical Fire Bottle
- 5.2 Igniter from Book Matches
- 5.3 Mechanically Initiated Fire Bottle
- 5.4 Gelled Flame Fuels
- 5.4.1 Lye Systems
- 5.4.2 Lye-Alcohol Systems
- 5.4.3 Soap-Alcohol System
- 5.4.4 Egg White Systems
- 5.4.5 Latex Systems
- 5.4.6 Wax Systems
- 5.4.7 Animal Blood Systems
- 5.5 Acid Delay Incendiary
- 5.6 Improvised White Flare
- 5.7 Improvised Iron Oxide
- 5.8 Improvised Yellow Flare
- 5.9 Improvised White Smoke Munition
- 5.10 Improvised Black Smoke Munition
- Section 6 — Fuses, Detonators & Delay Mechanisms
- 6.1 Electric Bulb Initiator
- 6.2 Fuse Igniter from Book Matches
- 6.3 Delay Igniter from Cigarette
- 6.4 Watch Delay Timer
- 6.5 No-Flash Fuse Igniter
- 6.6 Dried Seed Timer
- 6.7 Fuse Cords
- 6.7.1 Fast Burning Fuse
- 6.7.2 Slow Burning Fuse
- 6.8 Clothespin Time Delay Switch
- 6.9 Time Delay Grenade
- 6.10 Can-Liquid Time Delay
- 6.11 Short Term Time Delay for Grenade
- 6.12 Long Term Time Delay for Grenade
- 6.13 Detonator
- Section 7 — Miscellaneous
- 7.1 Clothespin Switch
- 7.2 Mousetrap Switch
- 7.3 Flexible Plate Switch
- 7.4 Metal Ball Switch
- 7.5 Altimeter Switch
- 7.6 Pull-Loop Switch
- 7.7 Knife Switch
- 7.8 Improvised Scale
- 7.9 Rope Grenade Launching Technique
- 7.10 Bicycle Generator Power Source
- 7.11 Automobile Generator Power Source
- 7.12 Improvised Battery (Short Lasting)
- 7.13 Improvised Battery (2 Hour Duration)
- 7.14 Armor Materials
- Appendix 1 — Primary High Explosives
- A1.1 Mercury Fulminate
- A1.2 Lead Styphnate
- A1.3 Lead Azide
- A1.4 DDNP
- Appendix 2 — Secondary High Explosives
- A2.1 TNT
- A2.2 Nitrostarch
- A2.3 Tetryl
- A2.4 RDX
- A2.5 Nitroglycerin
- A2.6 Commercial Dynamite
- A2.7 Military Dynamite
- A2.8 Amatol
- A2.9 PETN
- A2.10 Blasting Gelatin
- A2.11 Composition B
- A2.12 Composition C4
- A2.13 Ammonium Nitrate
- Colophon
- C.1 Version History
- C.1.1 Version 1.0 (1969)
- C.1.2 Version 2.0 (1970s)
- C.1.3 Version 3.0 (2007 – Thanks-to-Feinstein's Electronic Edition)
- C.2 Copyright Information
- Frankford Arsenal
- Philadelphia Pennsylvania
- For Official Use Only
- For further information or additional inserts, contact:
- Commanding Officer
- Frankford Arsenal
- ATTN: SMUF A-U3100, Special Products Division
- Small Caliber Engineering Directorate
- Philadelphia, Pa. 19137
- Additional inserts will be made available as evaluation tests are completed. Please notify the above
- agency of any change of address so that you may receive them.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 0
- Introduction
- 0.1 Purpose and Scope
- In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible or unwise to use conventional military
- munitions as tools in the conduct of certain missions. It may be necessary instead to fabricate the
- required munitions from locally available or unassuming materials. The purpose of this manual is to
- increase the potential of Special Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail the manufacture
- of munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available materials.
- Manufactured, precision devices almost always will be more effective, more reliable, and easier to
- use than improvised ones, but shelf items will just not be available for certain operations for security
- or logistical reasons. Therefore the operator will have to rely on materials he can buy in a drug or
- paint store, find in a junk pile, or scrounge from military stocks. Also, many of the ingredients and
- materials used in fabricating homemade items are so commonplace or innocuous they can be carried
- without arousing suspicion. The completed item itself often is more easily concealed or
- camouflaged. In addition, the field expedient item can be tailored for the intended target, thereby
- providing an advantage over the standard item in flexibility and versatility.
- The manual contains simple explanations and illustrations to permit construction of the items by
- personnel not normally familiar with making and handling munitions. These items were conceived
- in-house or, obtained from other publications or personnel engaged in munitions or special warfare
- work. This manual includes methods for fabricating explosives, detonators, propellants, shaped
- charges, small arms, mortars, incendiaries, delays, switches, and similar items from indigenous
- materials.
- 0.2 Safety and Reliability
- Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to assure safety and reliability. A
- large number of items were discarded because of inherent hazards or unreliable performance. Safety
- warnings are prominently inserted in the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that
- safety is a matter of attitude. It is a proven fact that men who are alert, who think out a situation, and
- who take correct precautions have fewer accidents than the careless and indifferent. It is important
- that work be planned and that instructions be followed to the letter; all work should be done in a neat
- and orderly manner. In the manufacture of explosives, detonators, propellants and incendiaries,
- equipment must be kept clean and such energy concentrations as sparks, friction, impact, hot objects,
- flame, chemical reactions, and excessive pressure should be avoided.
- These items were found to be effective in most environments; however, samples should be made and
- tested remotely prior to actual use to assure proper performance. Chemical items should be used as
- soon as possible after preparation and kept free of moisture, dirt, and the above energy
- concentrations. Special care should be taken in any attempt at substitution or use of items for
- purposes other than that specified or intended.
- 0.3 User Comments
- It is anticipated that this manual will be revised or changed from time to time. In this way it will be
- possible to update present material and add new items as they become available. Users are
- encouraged to submit recommended changes or comments to improve this manual. Comments
- should be keyed to the specific page, paragraph, and line of the text in which changes are
- recommended. Reasons should be provided for each comment to insure understanding and complete
- evaluation. Comments should be forwarded directly to Commandant, United States Army, Special
- Warfare School, Fort Bragg, North Carolina 28307 and Commanding Officer, United States Army,
- Frankford Arsenal, SMUFA-J8000, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19137.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 1
- Explosives and Propellants (including
- igniters)
- 1.1 Plastic Explosive Filler
- A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum jelly. This explosive can
- be detonated with commercial #8 or any military blasting cap.
- Materials Required How Used
- Potassium chlorate Medicine
- Manufacture of matches
- Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) Medicine
- Lubricant
- Piece of round stick
- Wide bowl or other container for mixing ingredients
- Procedure
- Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard
- surface. Roll the round stick over crystals to crush into a
- very fine powder until it looks like face powder or wheat
- flour.
- 1.
- Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1
- part petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar
- container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead)
- until a uniform paste is obtained.
- 2.
- Note: Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready to use.
- 1.2 Potassium Nitrate
- Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to make nitric
- acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, depending on
- the fertility of the soil.
- Materials Source
- Nitrate bearing earth or other material, about 3-1/2
- gallons (13-1/2 liters)
- Soil containing old decayed vegetable or animal
- matter
- Old cellars and/or farm dirt floors
- Earth from old burial grounds
- Decayed stone or mortar building foundations
- Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup (1/8 liter) Totally burned whitish wood ash powder
- Totally burned paper (black)
- Bucket or similar container, about 5 gallons (19
- liters) in volume (plastic, metal, or wood)
- 2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each slightly larger
- than bottom of bucket
- Shallow pan or dish, at least as large as bottom of
- bucket
- Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic, metal,
- etc.)
- Water – 1-3/4 gallons (6-3/4 liters)
- Awl, knife, screwdriver, or other hole producing
- instrument
- Alcohol about 1 gallon (4 liters) (whiskey, rubbing
- alcohol, etc.)
- Heat source (fire, electric heater, etc.)
- Paper
- Tape
- Note: Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much potassium
- nitrate, double quantities used.
- Procedure
- 1. Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes inside of bucket.
- Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer
- about the thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of
- cloth on top of ashes.
- 2.
- 3. Place dirt in bucket.
- Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket
- may be a ported on sticks if necessary.
- 4.
- Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in
- bucket into shallow container. Be sure water goes through all of the earth. Allow drained liquid
- to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours.
- Note: Do not pour all of the water at once, since this may cause stoppage.
- 5.
- Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any sludge remaining in bottom
- of the shallow container.
- 6.
- Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2
- hours. Small grains of salt will begin to
- appear in the solution. Scoop these out
- as they form, using any type of
- improvised strainer (paper, etc.).
- 7.
- When liquid has boiled down to approximately half
- its original volume, remove from fire and let sit.
- After half an hour add an equal volume of alcohol.
- When mixture is poured through paper, small white
- crystals will collect on top of it.
- 8.
- To purify the potassium nitrate, redissolve the dry crystals in the smallest possible amount of
- boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7); pour through an improvised filter
- made of several pieces of paper and evaporate or gently heat the concentrated solution to
- dryness.
- 9.
- Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitrate crystals are now ready for
- use.
- 10.
- 1.3 Improvised Black Powder
- Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun powder.
- Materials Required
- Potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter) (section 1.2)
- Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (1/2 liter)
- Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup (1/8 liter)
- Alcohol, 5 pints (2-1/2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
- Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)
- Heat source
- 2 Buckets – each 2 gallon (7-1/2 liters) capacity, at least one of which is heat resistant (metal, ceramic,
- etc.)
- Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square
- Large wooden stick
- Cloth, at least 2 feet (60 cm) square
- Note: The above amounts will yield two pounds (900 grams) of black powder. However, only the ratios
- of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much black powder, double all quantities
- used.
- Procedure
- 1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
- Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water and
- mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.
- 2.
- Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small
- bubbles begin to form.
- 3.
- Caution: Do not boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of
- pan, it may ignite.
- Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture
- into alcohol while stirring vigorously.
- 4.
- Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder.
- Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.
- 5.
- Place screening over dry bucket. Place
- workable amount of damp powder on
- screen and granulate by rubbing solid
- through screen.
- Note: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch
- of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.
- 6.
- Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer about 1/2 inch (1-1/4 cm) is
- formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible,
- preferably in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black powder.
- 7.
- Caution: Remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Black powder is now ready for use.
- 1.4 Nitric Acid
- Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers. It
- may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.
- Materials Required Source
- Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume)
- Drug Store
- Improvised (section 1.2)
- Concentrated sulfuric acid (1 part by volume) Motor vehicle batteries
- Industrial plants
- 2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks are preferable)
- Pot or frying pan
- Heat source (wood, coal, or charcoal)
- Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc. but not cellophane)
- Paper or rags
- Important: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concentrate it by boiling it until
- white fumes appear. Do not inhale fumes.
- Note: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate. Thus, for 2
- tablespoonfuls of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonfuls of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonful of
- concentrated sulfuric acid.
- Procedure
- Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add
- sulfuric acid. Do not fill bottle more than 1/4
- full. Mix until paste is formed.
- Caution: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away
- with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
- 1.
- Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of bottles together. Be sure
- bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces.
- 2.
- Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower than bottle containing
- paste so that nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle.
- 3.
- 4. Build fire in pot or frying pan.
- Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to appear
- periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the
- receiving bottle.
- 5.
- Caution: Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added
- precaution, place bottle to be heated in heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel.
- Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid.
- Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the
- receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2–6.
- 6.
- Caution: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a
- large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
- Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a sealed ceramic or
- glass container.
- 1.5 Initiator for Dust Explosions
- An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily
- constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or
- buildings.
- Materials Required
- A flat can, 3 inches (8 cm) diameter and 1-1/2 inch (3-3/4 cm) high.
- A 6-1/2 ounce (185 g) tuna can serves the purpose quite well.
- Blasting cap
- Explosive
- Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can or powder
- Large nail, 4 inches (10 cm) long
- Wooden rod – 1/4 inch (6 mm) diameter
- Flour, gasoline and powder or chipped aluminum
- Note: Plastic explosives (Composition C4, etc.) produce better explosions than cast explosives
- (Composition B, etc.).
- Procedure
- Using the nail, press a hole through the side of
- the tuna can 3/8 to 1/2 inch (1 to 1-1/2 cm)
- from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever
- action, enlarge the hole until it will
- accommodate the blasting cap.
- 1.
- Place the wooden rod in the hole and
- position the end of the rod at the center of
- the can.
- 2.
- Press explosive into the can, being sure to
- surround the rod, until it is 3/4 inch (2 cm)
- from top of the can. Carefully remove the
- wooden rod.
- 3.
- Place the aluminum metal on top of the
- explosive.
- 4.
- Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the
- cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now
- ready for use.
- 5.
- Note: If it is desired
- to carry the initiator
- some distance,
- cardboard may be
- pressed on top of the
- aluminum to insure
- against loss of
- material.
- How to Use
- This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2 gallon (1-2/3 liters)
- of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in
- sacks or cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, plastic or
- glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator and the blasting cap is actuated
- electrically or by fuse depending on the type of cap employed. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet
- enclosure (building 10 x 20 x 10 feet).
- Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionately larger initiators and charges.
- 1.6 Fertilizer Explosive
- An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel oil or a
- mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When properly prepared, this explosive munition can
- be detonated with a blasting cap.
- Materials Required
- Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen)
- Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil 1:1 ratio)
- Two flat boards. (At least one of these should be comfortably held in the hand, i.e. 2 x 4 and 36 x 36.)
- Bucket or other container for mixing ingredients
- Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy-walled cardboard tube
- Blasting cap
- Wooden rod – 1/4 inch diameter
- Spoon or similar measuring container
- Procedure
- Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat
- board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large
- particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like
- flour (approximately 10 minutes).
- Note: Proceed with step 2 as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the air
- and become spoiled.
- 1.
- Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc.) of fuel oil with 16
- measures of the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry
- bucket or other suitable container and stir with the wooden
- rod. If fuel oil is not available, use one half measure of
- gasoline and one half measure of motor oil. Store in a
- waterproof container until ready to use.
- 2.
- Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe
- is not available, you may use a dry tin can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled cardboard tube.
- 3.
- Note: Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture becomes tightly packed,
- one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the explosive.
- Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the
- explosive mix.
- 4.
- Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
- 1.7 Carbon Tet – Explosive
- A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon
- tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint Store
- Carbon tetrachloride, or
- tetrachloroethylene
- Pharmacy, or fire extinguisher fluid
- Dry cleaners, Pharmacy
- Stirring rod (wood)
- Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc.)
- Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
- Storage container (jar, can, etc.)
- Blasting cap
- Pipe, can or jar
- Procedure
- Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part
- carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene liquid into
- mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring
- with the wooden rod.
- 1.
- Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey
- syrup.
- Caution: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and
- should not be inhaled.
- 2.
- Store explosive in a jar or similar water proof container until ready to use. The
- liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not confined.
- 3.
- Note: Mixture will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.
- How to Use
- Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which
- has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is
- not available, you may use a dry tin can or a
- glass jar.
- 1.
- Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the
- explosive mix.
- 2.
- Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
- 1.8 Fertilizer AN-Al Explosive
- A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with fine aluminum
- powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than 32% nitrogen) Farm or Feed Store
- Fine aluminum bronzing powder Paint Store
- Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)
- Mixing container (wide bowl, can, etc.)
- Two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in hand and one very large, i.e. 2
- x 4 and 36 x 36 inches)
- Storage container (jar, can, etc.)
- Blasting cap
- Wooden rod – 1/4 inch diameter
- Pipe, can or jar
- Procedure
- Method I – To Obtain a Low Velocity Explosive
- Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part aluminum powder
- and pour into the mixing container. (Example: 4 cups of fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum
- powder.)
- a.
- b. Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod.
- 1.
- Method II – To Obtain a Much Higher Velocity Explosive
- Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on
- the large flat board and rub vigorously with the
- other board until the large particles are crushed
- into a very fine powder that looks like flour
- (approximately 10 minutes per handful).
- Note: Proceed with step b below as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture
- from the air and become spoiled.
- a.
- b. Follow steps a and b of Method I.
- 2.
- Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as glass jar, steel
- pipe, etc., until ready to use.
- 3.
- How to Use
- Follow steps 1 and 2 of How to Use in section 1.7.
- 1.9 “Red or White Powder” Propellant
- “Red or White Powder” Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation
- described below will result in approximately 2-1/2 pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant
- and should only be used in weapons with 1/2 inch inside diameter or less, such as the Match Gun or the
- 7.62 Carbine, but not pistols.
- Materials Required
- Heat source (kitchen stove or open fire)
- 2 gallon metal bucket
- Measuring cup (8 ounces or 240 milliliters)
- Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
- Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 inches square)
- Flat window screen (at least 1 foot square)
- Potassium nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups (560 milliliters)
- White sugar (granulated) 2 cups (480 milliliters)
- Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (30 milliliters) (if available)
- Clear water, 3-1/2 cups (840 milliliters)
- Procedure
- Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the
- bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring occasionally
- until the sugar and potassium nitrate dissolve.
- 1.
- If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the
- solution. Increase the flame under the
- mixture until it boils gently.
- Note: The mixture will retain the rust
- coloration.
- 2.
- Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter of its
- original volume, then stir continuously.
- 3.
- As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of
- cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from
- the heat source, and spread the mass on the metal sheet.
- 4.
- While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch
- apart.
- 5.
- Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore it occasionally (about
- every 20 minutes) to aid drying.
- 6.
- When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch,
- place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the material back and forth against the screen mesh
- with spoon or other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like particles.
- 7.
- 8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.
- 1.10 Nitric Acid/Nitrobenzene (“Hellhoffite”)
- Explosive
- An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It is a simple explosive to
- prepare. Just pour the mononitrobenzene into the acid and stir.
- Materials Required Source
- Nitric acid Field grade or 90% concentrated (specific gravity of
- 1.48)
- Mononitrobenzene (also known as nitrobenzene)
- Drug store (oil of mirbane)
- Chemical supply house
- Industries (used as solvent)
- Acid resistant measuring containers Glass, clay, etc.
- Acid resistant mixing rod
- Blasting cap
- Wax
- Steel pipe, end cap and tape
- Bottle or jar
- Note: Prepare mixture just before use.
- Procedure
- Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc.) mononitrobenzene to 2
- volumes nitric acid in bottle or jar.
- 1.
- 2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.
- Caution: Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash off immediately
- with large amount of water. Nitrobenzene is toxic; do not inhale fumes.
- How to Use
- 1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
- 2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
- 3. Pour mixture into pipe.
- Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath surface
- of mixture.
- 4.
- Note: Combining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
- 1.11 Optimized Process for Cellulose/Acid
- Explosives
- An acid type explosive can be made from nitric acid and white paper or cotton cloth. This explosive can
- be detonated with a commercial #8 or any military blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Nitric Acid
- Industrial metal processors, 90% concentrated (specific
- gravity of 1.48)
- Field grade (section 1.4)
- White unprinted, unsized paper Paper towels, napkins
- Clean white cotton cloth Clothing, sheets, etc.
- Acid resistant container Wax coated pipe or can, ceramic pipe, glass jar, etc.
- Heavy-walled glass containers
- Aluminum foil or acid resistant material Food stores
- Protective gloves
- Blasting cap
- Wax
- Procedure
- 1. Put on gloves.
- Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and sprinkle with nitric acid until
- thoroughly soaked. If aluminum foil is unavailable, use an acid resistant material (glass, ceramic
- or wood).
- Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a
- large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
- 2.
- Place another layer of paper or cloth on top of the acid-soaked sheet and repeat step 2 above.
- Repeat as often as necessary.
- 3.
- Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked
- sheets and insert the roll into the acid resistant container.
- Note: If glass, ceramic or wooden tray is used, pick up sheets with two wooden sticks and load
- into container.
- 4.
- 5. Wax blasting cap.
- Insert the blasting cap in the center of the rolled sheets.
- Allow 5 minutes before detonating the explosive.
- 6.
- 1.12 Methyl Nitrate Dynamite
- A moist explosive mixture can be made from sulfuric acid, nitric acid and methyl alcohol. This
- explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Sulfuric acid Clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear
- Nitric acid
- Field grade nitric acid (section 1.4) or 90% concentration
- (1.48 specific gravity)
- Methyl alcohol
- Methanol
- Wood alcohol (not denatured alcohol)
- Antifreeze (nonpermanent)
- Eyedropper or syringe with glass tube
- Large diameter glass (2 quart) jar
- Narrow glass jars (1 quart)
- Absorbent (fine sawdust, shredded paper,
- shredded cloth)
- Cup
- Pan (3 to 5 gallon)
- Teaspoon
- Wooden stick
- Steel pipe with end cap
- Blasting cap
- Water
- Tray
- Procedure
- Add 24 teaspoons of sulfuric acid to 16-1/2 teaspoons of
- nitric acid in the 2 quart jar.
- Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a
- large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
- 1.
- 2. Place the jar in the pan (3 to 5 gallon) filled with cold water or a stream and allow acid to cool.
- Rapidly swirl the jar to create a whirlpool in the
- liquid (without splashing) while keeping the
- bottom portion of the jar in the water.
- 3.
- While continually swirling, add to mixture, 1/2
- teaspoon at a time, 13-1/2 teaspoons of methyl
- alcohol, allowing mixture to cool at least one
- minute between additions.
- Caution: If there is a sudden increase in
- the amount of fumes produced or if the
- solution suddenly turns much darker or
- begins to froth, dump solution in the water
- within 10 seconds. This will halt the
- reaction and prevent an accident.
- 4.
- 5. After the final addition of methyl alcohol, swirl for another 30 to 45 seconds.
- Carefully pour the solution into one of the narrow glass jars. Allow jar to stand in water for
- approximately 5 minutes until two layers separate.
- 6.
- With an eyedropper or syringe, remove top layer and carefully
- put into another narrow glass jar. This liquid is the explosive.
- Caution: Explosive is shock sensitive.
- 7.
- Add an equal quantity of water to the explosive and swirl.
- Allow mixture to separate again as in step 6. The explosive is
- now the bottom layer.
- 8.
- 9. Carefully remove the top layer with the eyedropper or syringe and discard.
- 10. Place one firmly packed cup of absorbent in the tray.
- While stirring with the wooden stick, slowly add explosive until the mass is very damp but not
- wet enough to drip. Explosive is ready to use.
- 11.
- Note: If mixture becomes too wet, add more absorbent.
- If storage of explosive is required, store in a sealed container to prevent evaporation.
- Caution: Do not handle liquid explosive or allow to contact skin. If this happens, flush away
- immediately with large quantity of water. Keep grit, sand or dirt out of mixture.
- How to Use
- Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe
- is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar.
- 1.
- Insert blasting cap just beneath the
- surface of the explosive mix.
- 2.
- Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
- 1.13 Urea Nitrate Explosive
- Urea nitrate can be used as an explosive munition. It is easy to prepare from nitric acid and urine. It can
- be detonated with a blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Nitric acid, 90% concentration (1.48 specific gravity)
- Field grade (section 1.4) or industrial metal
- processors
- Urine Animals (including humans)
- 2 one gallon heat and acid-resistant containers (glass,
- clay, etc.)
- Filtering material Paper towel or finely textured cotton cloth
- (shirt, sheet, etc.)
- Aluminum powder (optional or if available) Paint stores
- Heat source
- Measuring containers (cup and spoon)
- Water
- Tape
- Blasting cap
- Steel pipe and end cap(s)
- Note: Prepare mixture just before use.
- Procedure
- Boil a large quantity of urine (10 cups) to
- approximately 1/10 its volume (1 cup) in one of the
- containers over the heat source.
- 1.
- 2. Filter the urine into the other container through the filtering material to remove impurities.
- Slowly add 1/3 cup of nitric acid to the
- filtered urine, and let mixture stand for 1
- hour.
- Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a
- large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
- 3.
- Filter mixture as in step 2. Urea nitrate
- crystals will collect on the paper.
- 4.
- 5. Wash the urea nitrate by pouring water over it.
- Remove urea nitrate crystals from the filtering material and allow to dry thoroughly
- (approximately 16 hours).
- 6.
- Note: The drying time can be reduced to two hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used. See step 5
- of section 1.15.
- How to Use
- Spoon the urea nitrate crystals into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one
- end.
- 1.
- Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of
- the urea nitrate crystals.
- 2.
- Notes: This explosive can be made more effective by mixing with aluminum powder (can be obtained
- in paint stores) in the ratio of 4 to 1. For example, mix 1 cup of aluminum powder with 4 cups of urea
- nitrate.
- Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
- 1.14 Preparation of Copper Sulfate (Pentahydrate)
- Copper sulfate is a required material for the preparation of TACC (section 1.16).
- Materials Required
- Pieces of copper or copper wire
- Dilute sulfuric acid (battery acid)
- Potassium nitrate (section 1.2) or nitric acid, 90% concentration (1.48 specific gravity) (section 1.4)
- Alcohol
- Water
- Two 1 pint jars or glasses, heat resistant
- Paper towels
- Pan
- Wooden rod or stick
- Improvised scale (section 7.8)
- Cup
- Container
- Heat source
- Teaspoon
- Procedure
- Place 10 grams of copper pieces into one of the pint
- jars. Add 1 cup (240 milliliters) of dilute sulfuric acid to
- the copper.
- 1.
- Add 12 grams of potassium nitrate or 1-1/2
- teaspoons of nitric acid to the mixture.
- Note: Nitric acid gives a product of greater purity.
- 2.
- Heat the mixture in a pan of simmering hot water
- bath until the bubbling has ceased (approximately
- 2 hours). The mixture will turn to a blue color.
- Caution: The above procedure will cause strong toxic fumes. Perform step 3 in an open,
- well ventilated area.
- 3.
- 4. Pour the hot blue solution, but not the copper, into the other pint jar. Allow solution to cool at
- room temperature. Crystals will form at the bottom of the jar. Discard the unreacted copper
- pieces in the first jar.
- Carefully pour away the liquid from the crystals. Crush
- crystals into a powder with wooden rod or stick.
- 5.
- Add 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of alcohol to the
- powder while stirring.
- 6.
- Filter the solution through a paper towel
- into a container to collect the crystals.
- Wash the crystals left on the paper towel
- three times, using 1/2 cup (120 milliliters)
- portions of alcohol each time.
- 7.
- 8. Air dry the copper sulfate crystals for 2 hours.
- Note: Drying time can be reduced to 1/2 hour by use of hot, not boiling, water bath (see step 3).
- 1.15 Reclamation of RDX from C4
- RDX can be obtained from C4 explosive with the use of gasoline. It can be used as a booster explosive
- for detonators (section 6.13) or as a high explosive charge.
- Materials Required
- Gasoline
- C4 explosive
- 2 pint glass jars, wide mouth
- Paper towels
- Stirring rod (glass or wood)
- Water
- Optional (RDX can be air dried instead)
- Ceramic or glass dish
- Pan
- Heat Source
- Teaspoon
- Cup
- Tape
- Procedure
- Place 1-1/2 teaspoons (15 grams) of C4 explosive in
- one of the pint jars. Add 1 cup (240 milliliters) of
- gasoline.
- Note: These quantities can be in creased to obtain
- more RDX. For example, use 2 gallons of gasoline
- per 1 cup of C4.
- 1.
- Knead and stir the C4 with the rod until the C4 has broken down into
- small particles. Allow mixture to stand for 1/2 hour.
- 2.
- 3. Stir the mixture again until a fine white powder remains on the bottom of the jar.
- Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other
- glass jar. Wash the particles collected on the paper towel
- with 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of gasoline. Discard the
- waste liquid.
- 4.
- Place the RDX particles in a glass or
- ceramic dish. Set the dish in a pan of hot
- water, not boiling, and dry for a period of
- 1 hour.
- 5.
- Note: The RDX particles may be air dried for a period of 2 to 3 hours.
- 1.16 TACC (Tetramminecopper (II) Chlorate)
- Tetramminecopper (II) chlorate is a primary explosive that can be made from sodium chlorate, copper
- sulfate and ammonia. This explosive is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (section
- 1.21) or RDX (section 1.15) in the fabrication of detonators (section 6.13).
- Materials Required Source
- Sodium chlorate
- Section 1.23
- Medicine
- Weed killer, hardware store
- Copper sulfate
- Section 1.14
- Insecticide, hardware store
- Water purifying agent
- Ammonia hydroxide Household ammonia
- Smelling salts
- Alcohol, 95% pure
- Wax, clay, pitch, etc.
- Water
- Bottle, narrow mouth (wine or coke)
- Bottles , wide mouth (mason jars)
- Tubing (rubber, copper, steel) to fit narrow mouth bottle
- Teaspoon
- Improvised scale Section 7.8
- Heat source
- Paper towel
- Pan
- Tape
- Cup
- Procedure
- Measure 1/3 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) of sodium
- chlorate into a wide mouth bottle. Add 10
- teaspoons of alcohol.
- 1.
- Place the wide mouth bottle in a pan of hot
- water. Add 1 teaspoon (4 grams) of copper
- sulfate to the mixture. Heat for a period of
- 30 minutes just under the boiling point and
- stir occasionally.
- 2.
- Caution: Keep solution away from flame.
- Note: Keep volume of solution constant by adding additional alcohol approximately every 10
- minutes.
- Remove solution from pan and allow to cool. Color of
- solution will change from blue to light green. Filter solution
- through a paper towel into another wide mouth bottle. Store
- solution until ready for step 6.
- 3.
- Add 1 cup (250 milliliters) of ammonia to the narrow mouth
- bottle.
- 4.
- Place tubing into the neck of bottle so that it extends about 1-1/2 inches (4 cm) inside bottle.
- Seal tubing to bottle with wax, clay, pitch, etc.
- 5.
- Place free end of tubing into the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution (step 3). Heat bottle containing
- ammonia in a pan of hot water, but not boiling, for approximately 10 minutes.
- 6.
- Bubble ammonia gas through the chlorate-alcohol-sulfate solution, approximately 10 minutes,
- until the color changes from light green to dark blue. Continue bubbling for another 10 minutes.
- Caution: At this point the solution is a primary explosive. Keep away from flame.
- 7.
- Remove the solution from the pan and reduce the volume to about 1/3 of its original volume by
- evaporating in the open air or in a stream of air.
- Note: Pour solution into a flat container for faster evaporation.
- 8.
- Filter the solution through a paper towel into a
- wide mouth bottle to collect crystals. Wash
- crystals with 1 teaspoon of alcohol. Tape and
- set aside to dry (approximately 16 hours).
- 9.
- Caution: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store in a capped container.
- Note: The drying time can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used.
- 1.17 HMTD
- HMTD is a primary explosive that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine, hydrogen peroxide and
- citric acid. This explosive is to be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (section 1.21) or
- RDX (section 1.15) in the fabrication of detonators (section 6.13).
- Materials Required Source
- Hexamethylenetetramine Drugstores under names of urotropine, hexamin, methenamine, etc.
- Army heat tablets
- Hydrogen peroxide 6% hair bleach (or stronger if possible)
- Citric acid Drug stores or food stores (“Sour Salt”)
- Containers, bottles or glasses
- Paper towels
- Teaspoon
- Pan
- Water
- Tape
- Procedure
- Measure 9 teaspoons of hydrogen peroxide into a
- container.
- 1.
- In 3 portions, dissolve 2-1/2 teaspoons of crushed
- hexamethylenetetramine in the peroxide.
- 2.
- Keep the solution cool for 30 minutes by
- placing container in a pan of cold water.
- 3.
- In 5 portions, dissolve 4-1/2 teaspoons of crushed citric acid in the
- hexamethylenetetramine-peroxide solution.
- 4.
- Permit solution to stand at room temperature until solid
- particles form at the bottom of container.
- Note: Complete precipitation will take place in 8 to 24 hours.
- 5.
- Caution: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from flame.
- Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container to
- collect the solid particles.
- 6.
- Wash the solid particles collected in the paper towel with 6 teaspoons of water by pouring the
- water over them. Discard the liquid in the container.
- 7.
- 8. Place these explosive particles in a container and allow to dry.
- Caution: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away
- from sparks or open flames. Store in cool, dry place.
- 1.18 Potassium or Sodium Nitrite and Litharge
- (Lead Monoxide)
- Potassium or sodium nitrite is needed to prepare DDNP (section 1.19), and litharge is required for the
- preparation of lead picrate (section 1.20).
- Materials Required Source
- Lead metal (small pieces or chips) Plumbing supply store
- Potassium (or sodium) nitrate Field grade (section 1.2) or Drug Store
- Methyl (wood) alcohol
- Iron pipe with end cap
- Iron rod or screwdriver
- Paper towels
- 2 glass jars, wide mouth
- Metal pan
- Heat source (hot coals or blow torch)
- Improvised scale (section 7.8)
- Cup
- Water
- Pan
- Procedure
- Mix 12 grams of lead and 4 grams of potassium or
- sodium nitrate in a jar. Place the mixture in the iron pipe.
- 1.
- Heat iron pipe in a bed of hot coals or with blow torch for
- 30 minutes to 1 hour. (Mixture will change to a yellow
- color.)
- 2.
- Remove the iron pipe from the heat source and
- allow to cool. Chip out the yellow material
- formed in the iron pipe and place the chips in
- the glass jar.
- 3.
- Add 1/2 cup (120 milliliters) of methyl alcohol to
- the chips.
- 4.
- Heat the glass jar containing the mixture in a
- hot water bath for approximately 2 minutes
- (heat until there is a noticeable reaction
- between chips and alcohol; solution will turn
- darker).
- 5.
- Filter the mixture through a paper towel into the other
- glass jar. The material left on the paper towel is lead
- monoxide.
- 6.
- 7. Remove the lead monoxide and wash it twice through a paper towel using 1/2 cup (120
- milliliters) of hot water each time. Air dry before using.
- Place the jar with the liquid (from step 6) in a hot water bath (as in step 5) and heat until the
- alcohol has evaporated. The powder remaining in the jar after evaporation is potassium or
- sodium nitrite.
- 8.
- Note: Nitrite has a strong tendency to absorb water from the atmosphere and should be stored in a
- closed container.
- 1.19 DDNP
- DDNP is a primary explosive used in the fabrication of detonators (section 6.13). It is to be used with a
- booster explosive such as picric acid (section 1.21) or RDX (section 1.15).
- Materials Required Source
- Picric acid Section 1.21
- Flowers of sulfur
- Lye (sodium hydroxide)
- Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor vehicle batteries
- Potassium or sodium nitrite Section 1.18
- Water
- 2 glass cups, heat resistant, (Pyrex)
- Stirring rod (glass or wood)
- Improvised scale Section 7.8
- Paper towels
- Teaspoon
- Tablespoon
- Eyedropper
- Heat source
- Containers
- Tape
- Procedure
- In one of the glass cups, mix 1/2 gram of lye with 2
- tablespoons (30 milliliters) of warm water.
- 1.
- Dissolve 1 teaspoon (3 grams) of picric acid in the
- water-lye solution. Store until ready for step 5.
- 2.
- Place 1/4 teaspoon (1 milliliter) of water in the other glass cup. Add 1/2 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams)
- of sulfur and 1/3 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) of lye to the water.
- 3.
- Boil solution over heat source until color turns dark red.
- Remove and allow solution to cool.
- 4.
- In three portions, add this sulfur-lye solution to
- the picric acid-lye solution (step 2); stir while
- pouring. Allow mixture to cool.
- 5.
- Filter the mixture through a paper towel into a container.
- Small red particles will collect on the paper. Discard the
- liquid in the container.
- 6.
- Dissolve the red particles in 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) of
- boiling water.
- 7.
- Remove and filter the mixture through a paper towel as in step 6. Discard the particles left on the
- paper.
- 8.
- Using an eyedropper, slowly add the sulfuric acid
- to the filtered solution until it turns orange-brown.
- 9.
- Add 1/2 teaspoon (2-1/2 grams) more of sulfuric acid to the solution. Allow the solution to cool
- to room temperature.
- 10.
- In a separate container, dissolve 1/4 teaspoon (1.8 grams) of potassium or sodium nitrite in 1/3
- cup (80 milliliters) of water.
- 11.
- Add this solution in one portion, while stirring, to the orange-solution. Allow the mixture to
- stand for 10 minutes. The mixture will turn light brown.
- Caution: At this point the mixture is a primary explosive. Keep away from flame.
- 12.
- Filter the mixture through a paper towel.
- Wash the particles left on the paper with 4
- teaspoons (20 milliliters) of water.
- 13.
- 14. Allow the particles to dry (approximately 16 hours).
- Caution: Explosive is shock and flame sensitive. Store explosive in a capped container.
- Note: The drying time can be reduced to 2 hours if a hot (not boiling) water bath is used. See section
- 1.16.
- 1.20 Preparation of Lead Picrate
- Lead picrate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (section 6.13). It is to be
- used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (section 1.21) or RDX (section 1.15).
- Materials Required Source
- Litharge (lead monoxide) Section 1.18 or plumbing supplies
- Picric Acid Section 1.21
- Wood alcohol (methanol) Paint removers; some antifreezes
- Wooden or plastic rod
- Dish or saucer (china or glass)
- Teaspoon
- Improvised Scale Section 7.8
- Containers
- Flat pan
- Heat source (optional)
- Water (optional)
- Procedure
- 1. Weigh 2 grams each of picric acid and lead monoxide. Place each in a separate container.
- Place 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) of the
- alcohol in a dish. Add the picric acid to the
- alcohol and stir with the wooden or plastic
- rod.
- 2.
- Add the lead monoxide to the mixture while stirring.
- Caution: At this point the solution is a primary explosive. Keep away from flame.
- 3.
- Continue stirring the mixture until the alcohol has evaporated. The mixture will suddenly
- thicken.
- 4.
- Stir mixture occasionally (to stop lumps from
- forming) until a powder is formed. A few
- lumps will remain.
- Caution: Be very careful of dry material forming on the inside of the container.
- 5.
- Spread this powdered mixture, the lead
- picrate, in a flat pan to air dry.
- 6.
- Note: If possible, dry the mixture in a hot, not boiling,
- water bath for a period of 2 hours.
- 1.21 Preparation of Picric Acid from Aspirin
- Picric acid can be used as a booster explosive in detonators (section 6.13), a high explosive charge, or as
- an intermediate to preparing lead picrate (section 1.20) or DDNP (section 1.19).
- Materials Required
- Aspirin tablets (5 grains or 325 mg per tablet)
- Alcohol, 95% pure
- Sulfuric acid, concentrated, (battery acid – boil until white fumes appear)
- Potassium nitrate (section 1.2)
- Water
- Paper towels
- Canning jar, 1 pint
- Rod (glass or wood)
- Glass containers
- Ceramic or glass dish
- Cup
- Teaspoon
- Tablespoon
- Pan
- Heat Source
- Tape
- Procedure
- Crush 20 aspirin tablets in a glass container.
- Add 1 teaspoon of water and work into a paste.
- 1.
- Add approximately 1/3 to 1/2 cup of alcohol
- (100 milliliters) to the aspirin paste; stir while
- pouring.
- 2.
- Filter the alcohol-aspirin solution through a paper towel into
- another glass container. Discard the solid left on the paper towel.
- 3.
- 4. Pour the filtered solution into a ceramic or glass dish.
- Evaporate the alcohol and water from the solution
- by placing the dish into a pan of hot water. White
- powder will remain in the dish after evaporation.
- Note: Water in pan should be at hot bath temperature, not boiling, approximately 160° to 180°F.
- It should not burn the hands.
- 5.
- Pour 1/3 cup (80 milliliters) of concentrated sulfuric acid
- into a canning jar. Add the white powder to the sulfuric
- acid.
- 6.
- Heat canning jar of sulfuric acid in a pan of
- simmering hot water bath for 15 minutes; then
- remove jar from the bath. Solution will turn to a
- yellow-orange color.
- 7.
- Add 3 level teaspoons (15 grams) of potassium nitrate
- in three portions to the yellow-orange solution; stir
- vigorously during additions. Solution will turn red,
- and then back to a yellow-orange color.
- 8.
- 9. Allow the solution to cool to ambient or room temperature while stirring occasionally.
- Slowly pour the solution, while stirring,
- into 1-1/4 cup (300 milliliters) of cold
- water and allow to cool.
- 10.
- Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container. Light yellow particles will collect
- on the paper towel.
- 11.
- Wash the light yellow particles with 2
- tablespoons (25 milliliters) of water.
- Discard the waste liquid in the container.
- 12.
- 13. Place particles in ceramic dish and set in a hot water bath, as in step 5, for 2 hours.
- 1.22 Double Salts
- Double salts is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (section 6.13). It can be
- made in the field from silver (coins), nitric acid, calcium carbide, and water.
- Materials Required
- Nitric acid (90% concentration) (section 1.4)
- Silver metal (silver coin, about 5/8 inch diameter)
- Calcium carbide (acetylene or calcium carbide lamps)
- Rubber and glass tubing (approximately 1/4 inch inside diameter)
- Paper towels
- Heat-resistant bottles or ceramic jugs, 1 to 2 quart capacity, and one cork to fit. (Punch hole in cork to
- fit tubing.)
- Teaspoon (aluminum, stainless steel or wax-coated) or equivalent measure
- Glass container
- Heat source
- Long narrow jar (olive jar)
- Tape
- Water
- Alcohol
- Procedure
- Dilute 2-1/4 teaspoons of nitric acid with 1-1/2
- teaspoons of water in a glass container by adding
- the acid to the water.
- 1.
- Dissolve a silver coin (a silver dime) in the diluted nitric acid. The solution will turn to a green
- color.
- Note: It may be necessary to warm the container to completely dissolve the silver coin.
- Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a
- large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
- 2.
- Pour solution into a long narrow
- (olive) jar and place it in a bottle of
- hot water. Crystals will form in the
- solution; heat until crystals dissolve.
- 3.
- While still heating and after crystals have dissolved, place 10 teaspoons of calcium carbide in
- another glass bottle and add 1 teaspoon of water. After the reaction has started add another
- teaspoon of water. Then set up as shown.
- 4.
- Bubble acetylene through the solution for 5 to 8 minutes. A brown vapor will be given off and
- white flakes will appear in the silver solution.
- 5.
- Remove the silver solution from the
- heat source and allow it to cool. Filter
- the solution through a paper towel
- into a glass container. Green crystals
- will collect on the paper.
- 6.
- Wash the solids collected on the paper towel with 12
- teaspoons of alcohol. The solid material will turn
- white while the solvent in the container will have a
- green color.
- 7.
- 8. Place the white solid material on a clean paper towel to air dry.
- Caution: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away
- from sparks or open flames. Store in cool, dry place.
- 1.23 Sodium Chlorate
- Sodium chlorate is a strong oxidizer used in the manufacture of explosives. It can be used in place of
- potassium chlorate (section 1.1).
- Materials Required Source
- 2 carbon or lead rods (1 inch diameter x 5 inches long)
- Dry cell batteries (2-1/2 inches
- diameter x 7 inches long) or
- plumbing supply store
- Salt or, ocean water Grocery store or ocean
- Sulfuric acid, diluted Motor vehicle batteries
- Motor vehicle
- Water
- 2 wires, 16 gauge (3/64 inch diameter approximately), 6 feet
- long, insulated
- Gasoline
- 1 gallon glass jar, wide mouth (5 inches diameter x 6 inches
- high approximately)
- Sticks
- String
- Teaspoon
- Trays
- Cup
- Heavy cloth
- Knife
- Large flat pan or tray
- Procedure
- Mix 1/2 cup of salt into the one gallon glass jar
- with 3 liters (3 quarts) of water.
- 1.
- Add 2 teaspoons of battery
- acid to the solution and stir
- vigorously for 5 minutes.
- 2.
- Strip about 4 inches of insulation from both ends of the 2
- wires.
- 3.
- With knife and sticks shape 2 strips of
- wood 1 x 1/8 x 1-1/2. Tie the wood strips
- to the lead or carbon rods so that they are
- 1-1/2 inches apart.
- 4.
- 5. Connect the rods to the battery in a motor vehicle with the insulated wire.
- Submerge 4-1/2 inches of the rods into the
- salt water solution.
- 6.
- With gear in neutral position, start the vehicle engine. Depress the accelerator approximately 1/5
- of its full travel.
- 7.
- 8. Run the engine with the accelerator in this position for 2 hours; then, shut it down 2 hours.
- Repeat this cycle for a total of 64 hours while maintaining the level of the acid-salt water
- solution in the glass jar.
- Caution: This arrangement employs voltages which may be dangerous to personnel. Do
- not touch bare wire leads while engine is running.
- 9.
- Shut off the engine. Remove the rods from the glass jar and disconnect wire leads from the
- battery.
- 10.
- Filter the solution through
- the heavy cloth into a flat
- pan or tray, leaving the
- sediment at the bottom of
- the glass jar.
- 11.
- Allow the water in the filtered solution to evaporate at room temperature (approximately 16
- hours). The residue is approximately 60% or more sodium chlorate which is pure enough to be
- used as an explosive ingredient.
- 12.
- 1.24 Mercury Fulminate
- Mercury fulminate is used as a primary explosive in the fabrication of detonators (section 6.13). It is to
- be used with a booster explosive such as picric acid (section 1.21) or RDX (section 1.15).
- Materials Required Source
- Nitric Acid, 90% concentration (1.48 specific
- gravity)
- Field grade (section 1.4) or industrial metal
- processors
- Mercury Thermometers, mercury switches, old radio tubes
- Ethyl (grain) alcohol (90%)
- Filtering material Paper towels
- Teaspoon measure (1/4, 1/2, and 1 teaspoon
- capacity) – aluminum, stainless steel or
- wax-coated
- Heat source
- Clean wooden stick
- Clean water
- Glass containers
- Tape
- Syringe
- Procedure
- Dilute 5 teaspoons of nitric acid with 2-1/2 teaspoons of clean water in a glass container by
- adding the acid to the water.
- 1.
- Dissolve 1/8 teaspoon of mercury in the
- diluted nitric acid. This will yield dark red
- fumes.
- Note: It may be necessary to add water, one drop at a time, to the mercury-acid solution in order
- to start reaction.
- Caution: Acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a
- large quantity of water. Do not inhale fumes.
- 2.
- Warm 10 teaspoons of the alcohol in a container
- until the alcohol feels warm to the inside of the
- wrist.
- 3.
- Pour the metal-acid solution into the warm
- alcohol. Reaction should start in less than 5
- minutes. Dense white fumes will be given off
- during reaction. As time lapses, the fumes will
- become less dense. Allow 10 to 15 minutes to
- complete reaction. Fulminate will settle to bottom.
- Caution: This reaction generates large quantities of toxic, flammable fumes. The process
- must be conducted outdoors or in a well ventilated area, away from sparks or open flames.
- Do not inhale fumes.
- 4.
- Filter the solution through a piper towel into a
- container. Crystals may stick to the side of the
- container. If so, tilt and squirt water down the
- sides of the container until all the material collects
- on the filter paper.
- 5.
- Wash the crystals with 6 teaspoons of ethyl
- alcohol.
- 6.
- 7. Allow these mercury fulminate crystals to air dry.
- Caution: Handle dry explosive with great care. Do not scrape or handle it roughly. Keep away
- from sparks or open flames. Store in cool, dry place.
- 1.25 Sodium Chlorate and Sugar or Aluminum
- Explosive
- An explosive munition can be made from sodium chlorate combined with granular sugar, or aluminum
- powder. This explosive can be detonated with a commercial #8 or a Military J-2 blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Sodium chlorate Section 1.23
- Granular sugar Food store
- Aluminum powder Paint store
- Wooden rod or stick
- Bottle or jar
- Blasting cap
- Steel pipe (threaded at one end), end cap and tape
- Wax
- Measuring container (cup, quart, etc.)
- Procedure
- Add three volumes (cups, quarts, etc.) sodium
- chlorate to one volume aluminum, or two
- granular sugar, in bottle or jar.
- 1.
- 2. Mix ingredients well by stirring with the wooden rod or stick.
- How to Use
- 1. Wax blasting cap, pipe and end cap.
- 2. Thread end cap onto pipe.
- 3. Pour mixture into pipe.
- Insert and tape blasting cap just beneath
- surface of mixture.
- 4.
- Note: Confining the open end of the pipe will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 2
- Mines and Grenades
- 2.1 Pipe Hand Grenade
- Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic or granular military
- explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgun or small arms ammunition.
- Materials Required
- Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1-1/2 inch to 3 inches
- diameter, 3 inches to 8 inches long
- Two (2) iron pipe caps
- Explosive or propellant
- Nonelectric blasting cap (commercial or military)
- Fuse cord
- Hand drill
- Pliers
- Procedure
- 1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp
- with pliers.
- Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be,
- check the time it takes a known length to burn. If 12
- inches burns in 30 seconds, a 6-inch cord will ignite the
- grenade in 15 seconds.
- 2. Screw pipe cap to one and of pipe. Place fuse cord
- with blasting cap into the opposite end so that the
- blasting cap in near the center of the pipe.
- Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before
- inserting blasting cap. Push a round stick into the
- center of the explosive to make a hole and then insert
- the blasting cap.
- 3. Pour explosive or propellant into pipe a little bit at a time.
- Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filler.
- 4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap
- large enough for the fume cord to pass through.
- 5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler
- material. Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse
- and screw hand tight onto the pipe.
- 2.2 Nail Grenade
- Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other blasting explosive and
- nails.
- Materials Required
- Block of TNT or other blasting explosive
- Nails
- Nonelectric military blasting cap
- Fuse Cord
- Tape, string, wire or glue
- Procedure
- 1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT
- block is used, make a hole in the center of the charge for
- inserting the blasting cap. TNT can be drilled with
- relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can be
- made by pressing a round stick into the center of the
- charge. The hole should be deep enough that the blasting
- cap is totally within the explosive.
- 2. Tape, tie or glue one or two rows of closely packed
- nails to sides of explosive block. Nails should
- completely cover the four surfaces of the block.
- 3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and
- crimp with pliers.
- Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should
- be, check the time it takes a known length to
- burn. If 12 inches (30 cm) burns for 30 seconds,
- a 10 second delay will require a 4 inch (10 cm)
- fuse.
- 4.
- Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie fuse cord securely in place so
- that it will not fall out when the grenade is thrown.
- Alternate Use
- An effective directional antipersonnel mine can be made
- by placing nails on only one side of the explosive block.
- For this came, an electric blasting cap can be used.
- 2.3 Wine Bottle Cone Charge
- This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 inches of armor. Placed on an engine or engine compartment it
- will disable a tank or other vehicle.
- Materials Required
- Glass wine bottle with false bottom (cone shaped)
- Plastic or castable explosive
- Blasting cap
- Gasoline or kerosene (small amount)
- String
- Adhesive tape
- Procedure
- 1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene.
- Double wrap this string around the wine bottle
- approximately 3 inches (7-1/2 cm) above the top of
- the cone.
- Note: A small amount of motor oil added to the
- gasoline or kerosene will improve results.
- 2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 2
- minutes. Then plunge the bottle into cold water
- to crack the bottle. The top half can now be
- easily removed and discarded.
- 3. If plastic explosive is used:
- Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time
- compressing with a wooden rod. Fill the bottle
- to the top.
- a.
- Press a 1/4 inch wooden dowel 1/2 inch (12
- mm) into the middle of the top of the
- explosive charge to form a hole for the
- blasting cap.
- b.
- 4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
- Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or nonsparking metal tools. Place
- pieces in a tin can.
- a.
- Suspend this can in a larger container which
- is partly filled with water. A stiff wire or
- stick pushed through the smaller can will
- accomplish this.
- Caution: The inner can must not rest
- on the bottom of the outer container.
- b.
- Heat the container on an electric hot plate
- or other heat source. Stir the explosive
- frequently with a wooden stick while it is
- melting.
- Caution: Keep area well ventilated
- while melting explosive. Fumes may
- be poisonous.
- c.
- d. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive
- until it begins to thicken. During this time the bottom half of the wine bottle should be placed in
- the container of hot water. This will preheat the bottle so that it will not crack when the
- explosive is poured.
- Remove the bottle from hot water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten explosive into the bottle and
- allow to cool. The crust which forms on top of the charge during cooling should be broken with
- a wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary until the bottle is filled
- to the top.
- e.
- When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the
- top of the charge about 1/2 inch (12 mm) deep.
- f.
- How to Use
- 1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If nonelectric
- cap is used be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is long enough to
- provide safe delay.
- 2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3 to 4 inches (7-1/2 to 10
- cm) from the target. This can be done by taping legs to the charge or
- any other convenient means as long as there is nothing between the
- base of the charge and the target.
- 3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.
- Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by
- placing it inside a can, box, or similar container and packing
- sand or dirt between the charge and the container.
- 2.4 Grenade-Tin Can Land Mine
- This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is pulled.
- Materials Required
- Hand grenade having side safety lever
- Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just large enough to fit over grenade and its safety lever (tin
- can of proper size is suitable)
- Strong string or wire
- Note: The container must be of such a size that, when the grenade is placed in it and the safety pin
- removed, its sides will prevent the safety lever from springing open. One end must be completely open.
- Procedure
- 1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of container,
- making a strong connection. This can be done by punching 2
- holes in the can, looping the string through them, and tying a
- knot.
- 2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc.
- 3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it
- cannot interfere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism
- of the grenade.
- 4. Insert grenade into container.
- 5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc. The string should remain taut.
- How to Use
- 1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever is restrained during this
- operation. Grenade will function in normal manner when trip wire is pulled.
- Note: In areas where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained by suspending the
- grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below.
- 2.5 Mortar Scrap Mine
- A directional shrapnel launcher that can be placed in the path of advancing troops.
- Materials Required
- Iron pipe approximately 3 feet (1 meter) long and 2 inches to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) in diameter and
- threaded on at least one end. Salvaged artillery cartridge case may also be used.
- Threaded cap to fit pipe
- Black powder or salvaged artillery propellant about 1/2 pound (200 grams) total
- Electrical igniter (commercial squib or improvised igniter, section 6.1). Safety or improvised fuse may
- also be used.
- Small stones about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) in diameter or small size scrap; about 1 pound (400 grams) total
- Rags for wadding, each about 20 inches by 20 inches (50 cm x 50 cm)
- Paper or bag
- Battery and wire
- Stick (nonmetallic)
- Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws.
- Procedure
- 1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe.
- 2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie
- package with string so contents will not fall out.
- 3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests against threaded cap leaving firing
- leads extending from open end of pipe.
- 4. Roll rag till it is about 6 inches (15-1/2 cm) long and the same diameter as pipe. Insert rag wadding
- against packaged propellant igniter. With caution, pack tightly using stick.
- 5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe.
- 6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap. Pack tightly as before.
- How to Use
- 1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy. The open end may be
- covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dirt or leaves as camouflage.
- 2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired when needed or attached to
- trip device placed in path of advancing troops.
- Note: A nonelectrical ignition system can be substituted for the electrical ignition system as follows.
- 1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter.
- 2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire.
- 2.6 Coke Bottle Shaped Charge
- This shaped charge will penetrate 3 inches (7-1/2 cm) of armor. (It will disable a vehicle if placed on the
- engine or engine compartment).
- Materials Required
- Glass Coke bottle, 6-1/2 ounce (192 ml) size
- Plastic or castable explosive, about 1 pound (454 grams)
- Blasting cap
- Metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 2
- inches (5 cm) inside diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for
- best results.
- Plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.)
- Nonmetal rod about 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter and 8 inches (20 cm)
- or more in length
- Tape or string
- 2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (section 2.3)
- Note: Cylinder may be cardboard, plastic, etc. if castable explosive is used.
- Procedure
- 1. Place plug in mouth of bottle.
- 2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests on
- widest part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be
- straight on top of bottle.
- 3. If plastic explosive is used:
- Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time
- tamping with rod until cylinder is full.
- a.
- Press the rod about 1/2 inch (1 cm) into the middle of the top of the explosive charge to form a
- hole for the blasting cap.
- b.
- 4. If castable explosive is used, follow procedure of
- Wine Bottle Cone Charge, section 2.3, step 4, a through
- f.
- How to Use
- Method I – If Electrical Blasting Cap is Used
- 1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive.
- Caution: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to be detonated.
- 2. Place bottom of Coke bottle flush against the target. If target is
- not flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any convenient
- means, such as by placing tape or string around target and top of
- bottle. Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off.
- Caution: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is nothing between the
- target and the base of the bottle.
- 3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.
- Method II – If Nonelectrical Blasting Cap is Used
- 1. Crimp cap around fuse.
- Caution: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay.
- 2. Follow steps 1, 2, and cautions of Method I.
- 3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
- 2.7 Cylindrical Cavity Shaped Charge
- A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1-1/2 inch (3-1/2 cm) of steel,
- producing a hole 1-1/2 inch (3-1/2 cm) in diameter.
- Materials Required
- Iron or steel pipe, 2 to 2-1/2 inches (5 to 6-1/2 cm) in diameter and 3 to 4
- inches (7-1/2 to 10 cm) long
- Metal pipe, 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1-1/2 to 2 cm) in diameter and 1-1/2 inch
- (3-1/2 cm) long, open at both ends. (The wall of the pipe should be as
- thin as possible.)
- Blasting cap
- Nonmetallic rod, 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter
- Plastic or castable explosive
- 2 metal cans of different sizes
- Stick or wire If castable explosive is used
- Heat source
- Procedure
- 1. If plastic explosive is used:
- Place larger pipe on flat
- surface. Hand pack and tamp
- explosive into pipe. Leave
- approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm)
- space at top.
- a.
- Push rod into center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to diameter and length of small
- pipe.
- b.
- Insert small pipe into hole.
- Important: Be sure direct contact is made between explosive and small pipe. Tamp
- explosive around pipe by hand if necessary.
- c.
- Make sure that there is 1/4 inch (6 mm) empty space above small pipe. Remove explosive if
- necessary.
- d.
- Turn pipe upside down
- and push rod 1/2 inch
- (1-1/4 cm) into center
- of opposite end of
- explosive to form a
- hole for the blasting
- cap.
- e.
- Caution: Do not insert blasting cap in hole until ready to fire shaped charge.
- 2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used:
- a. Follow procedure, section 2.3, step 4, parts a, b, c, including cautions.
- When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive
- until it begins to thicken.
- b.
- Place large pipe on flat surface. Pour
- explosive into pipe until it is 1-3/4 inch (4
- cm) from the top.
- c.
- Place small pipe in center of large
- pipe so that it rests on top of
- explosive. Holding small pipe in
- place, pour explosive around small
- pipe until explosive is 1/4 inch (6
- mm) from top of large pipe.
- d.
- Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge during cooling with a
- wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this as often as necessary until explosive is 1/4 inch (6
- mm) from top.
- e.
- When explosive has completely
- hardened, turn pipe upside down and
- bore a hole for the blasting cap in the
- middle of the top of the charge about 1/2
- inch (1-1/4 cm) deep.
- f.
- How to Use
- Method I – If Electrical Blasting Cap is Used
- 1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it.
- Caution: Do not insert blasting cap until charge is ready to fire.
- 2. Place other end of pipe flush against the target. Fasten
- pipe to target by any convenient means, such as by
- placing tape or string around target and top of pipe, if
- target is not flat and horizontal.
- Caution: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is nothing between the
- target and the base of the pipe.
- 3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit.
- Method II – If Nonelectrical Blasting Cap is Used
- 1. Crimp cap around fuse.
- Caution: Be sure fuse is long enough to provide a safe delay.
- 2. Follow steps 1, 2, and caution of Method I.
- 3. Light fuse when ready to fire.
- 2.8 Not Available
- The original printed document from which this electronic edition was produced goes directly from
- section 2.7 to 2.9. There was no section 2.8.
- 2.9 Funnel Shaped Charge
- An effective shaped charge can be made using various types of commercial funnels. See table for
- penetration capabilities.
- Materials Required
- Container (soda or beer can, etc.), approximately 2-1/2 inches diameter x 5 inches long (6-1/4 cm x
- 12-1/2 cm)
- Funnel(s) (glass, steel, or aluminum) 2-1/2 inches (6-1/2 cm) in diameter
- Wooden rod or stick, 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter
- Tape
- Blasting cap (electrical or nonelectrical)
- Sharp cutting edge
- Explosive
- Procedure
- 1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard.
- 2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s).
- Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels
- together as tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels
- together at the outer ridges.
- 3. Place the funnel(s) in the modified can. Tape on
- outer ridges to hold funnel(s) to can.
- 4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive
- using small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick.
- Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of section 2.3.
- 5. Cut wooden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than
- the standoff length. (See table.) Position three of
- these rods around the explosive filled can and hold
- in place with tape.
- Note: The position of the rods on the container
- must conform to standoff dimensions to obtain the
- penetrations given in the table.
- Table
- Funnel Number of Standoff Penetration
- Material Funnels inches metric inches metric
- Glass 1 3-1/2 9 cm 4 10 cm
- Steel 3 1 2-1/2 cm 2-1/2 6 cm
- Aluminum 3 3-1/2 9 cm 2-1/2 6 cm
- If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available:
- Steel 1 1 2-1/2 cm 1-1/2 4 cm
- Aluminum 1 1 2-1/2 cm 1-1/2 4 cm
- 6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive
- with rod or stick.
- Caution: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is ready for use.
- How to Use
- 1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If
- nonelectric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and
- fuse is long enough to provide safe delay.
- 2. Place (tape if necessary) the funnel shaped charge on the target so that nothing is between the base of
- charge and target.
- 3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.
- 2.10 Linear Shaped Charge
- This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through up to nearly 3 inches of armor
- depending upon the liner used (see table).
- Materials Required
- Standard structural angle or pipe (see table)
- Wood or cardboard container
- Hacksaw
- If pipe is used
- Vice
- Wooden rod, 1/4 inch (6 mm) diameter
- Explosive
- Blasting cap
- Tape
- Table
- Type Material Liner Size
- inches – nominal
- Standoff Penetration
- inches metric inches metric
- angle steel 3 x 3 legs x 1/4 web 2 5 cm 2-3/4 7 cm
- angle aluminum 2 x 2 legs x 3/16 web 5-1/2 14 cm 2-1/2 6 cm
- pipe half section aluminum 2 diameter 2 5 cm 2 5 cm
- pipe half section copper 2 diameter 1 2-1/2 cm 1-3/4 4 cm
- Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to be more efficient than
- the Ribbon Charge.
- Ribbon Charge: No standoff is required; just place on target.
- Procedure
- 1. If pipe is used:
- Place the pipe in the vise and cut pipe in
- half lengthwise. Remove the pipe half
- sections from vise.
- a.
- Discard one of the pipe half sections, or
- save for another charge.
- b.
- 2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface.
- 3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide as the angle or pipe half
- section, twice as high, and as long as the desired cut to be made with the charge.
- 4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner to container.
- 5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the
- explosive using small quantities, and tamp explosive
- with wooden rod or stick.
- Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of
- section 2.3.
- 6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the
- standoff length (see table). Position the rods at the
- corners of the explosive filled container and hold in
- place with tape.
- Note: The position of the rods on the container must
- conform to standoff and penetration dimensions given in
- the table.
- 7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side of the container 1/2 inch above the liner and centered with the
- wooden rod.
- Caution: Do not place blasting cap in place until the linear shaped charge is ready for use.
- How to Use
- 1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the
- container. If nonelectric cap is used, be sure cap is
- crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough to provide
- safe delay.
- 2. Place (tape if necessary) the linear shaped charge on the target so that nothing is between base of
- charge and target.
- 3. If electric cap is used, connect blasting cap wires to firing circuit.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 3
- Small Arms Weapons and Ammunition
- 3.1 Pipe Pistol for 9 mm Ammunition
- A 9 mm pistol can be made from 1/4 inch steel gas or water pipe and fittings.
- Materials Required
- 1/4 inch nominal size steel pipe 4 to 6 inches long with
- threaded ends
- 1/4 inch solid pipe plug
- Two (2) steel pipe couplings
- Metal strap – roughly 1/8 inch x 1/4 inch x 5 inch
- Two (2) elastic bands
- Flat head nail – 6D or 8D (approximately 1/16 inch
- diameter)
- Two (2) wood screws #8
- Wood 8 inch x 5 inch x 1 inch
- Drill
- 1/4 inch wood or metal rod, (approximately 8 inches
- long)
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
- a. Make sure that there are no cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings.
- Check inside diameter of pipe using a 9 mm cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should closely fit
- into the pipe without forcing but the cartridge case should not fit into pipe.
- b.
- Outside diameter of pipe must not be less than 1-1/2 times bullet diameter (0.536 inches; 1.37
- cm)
- c.
- 2. Drill a 9/16 inch (1.43 cm) diameter hole 3/8 inch
- (approximately 1 cm) into one coupling to remove the thread.
- Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of pipe.
- 3. Drill a 25/64 inch (1 cm) diameter hole 3/4 inch
- (1.9 cm) into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when
- a cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the
- case should be even with the end of the pipe.
- Thread coupling tightly onto pipe, drilled end first.
- 4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just large
- enough for the nail to fit through.
- Hole must be centered in plug.
- 5. Push nail through plug until head of nail is flush
- with square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16 inch
- (0.158 cm) away from plug. Round off end of nail
- with file.
- 6. Bend metal strap to “U” shape and drill holes for
- wood screws. File two small notches at top.
- 7. Saw or otherwise shape 1 inch (2.54 cm) thick hard
- wood into stock.
- 8. Drill a 9/16 inch diameter (1.43 cm) hole
- through the stock. The center of the hole
- should be approximately 1/2 inch (1.27 cm)
- from the top.
- 9. Slide the pipe through this hole and attach
- front coupling. Screw drilled plug into rear
- coupling.
- Note: If 9/16 inch drill is not available cut a “V”
- groove in the top of the stock and tape pipe
- securely in place.
- 10. Position metal strap on stock so that top will
- hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with
- wood screw on each side.
- 11. String elastic bands from front coupling to
- notch on each side of the strap.
- Safety Check – Test Fire Pistol Before Hand Firing
- 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behind in case the pistol
- ruptures when fired.
- 2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
- 3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the pistol.
- 4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.
- 5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back.
- 6. Release the cord to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their
- number.)
- Important: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then reinspect the pistol before
- you attempt to hand fire it.
- How to Operate Pistol
- 1. To Load:
- a. Remove plug from rear coupling.
- b. Place cartridge into pipe.
- c. Replace plug.
- 2. To Fire:
- a. Pull strap back and hold with thumb until ready.
- b. Release strap.
- 3. To Remove Shell Case:
- a. Remove plug from rear coupling.
- Insert 1/4 inch diameter steel or wooden rod
- into front of pistol and push shell case out.
- b.
- 3.2 Shotgun (12 gauge)
- A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from 3/4 inch water or gas pipe and fittings.
- Materials Required
- Wood 2 inches x 4 inches x 32 inches
- 3/4 inch nominal size water or gas pipe 20 inches to 30 inches long threaded on one end
- 3/4 inch steel coupling
- Solid 3/4 inch pipe plug
- Metal strap (1/4 inch x 1/16 inch x 4 inch)
- Twine, heavy (100 yards approximately)
- 3 wood screws and screwdriver
- Flat head nail 6D or 8D
- Hand drill
- Saw or knife
- File
- Shellac or lacquer
- Elastic Bands
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
- a. Make sure that there are no cracks or other flaws.
- Check inside diameter of pipe. A 12-gauge shot shell should fit into the pipe but the brass rim
- should not fit.
- b.
- c. Outside diameter of pipe must be at least 1 inch (2.54 cm).
- 2. Cut stock from wood using a saw or knife.
- 3. Cut a 3/8 inch deep “V” groove in top of the stock.
- 4. Turn coupling onto pipe until tight.
- 5. Coat pipe and “V” groove of stock with shellac or lacquer and, while still wet, place pipe in “V”
- groove and wrap pipe and stock together using two heavy layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or
- lacquer after each layer.
- 6. Drill a hole through center of pipe plug large enough
- for nail to pass through.
- 7. File threaded end of plug flat.
- 8. Push nail through plug and cut off flat 1/32 inch past
- the plug.
- 9. Screw plug into coupling.
- 10. Bend 4 inch metal strap into “L” shape and
- drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on
- the long side 1/2 inch from bend.
- 11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood
- screw.
- 12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4 inch in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through
- notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock.
- Safety Check – Test Fire Shotgun Before Hand Firing
- 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behind in case the weapon
- explodes when fired.
- 2. Mount shotgun solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
- 3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the shotgun.
- 4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.
- 5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back.
- 6. Release the cord to fire the shotgun. (If shotgun does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase
- their number.)
- Important: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then reinspect the shotgun before
- you attempt to shoulder fire it.
- How to Operate Shotgun
- 1. To Load:
- a. Take plug out of coupling.
- b. Put shotgun shell into pipe.
- c. Screw plug hand tight into coupling.
- 2. To Fire:
- a. Pull strap back and hold with thumb.
- b. Release strap.
- 3. To Unload Gun:
- a. Take plug out of coupling.
- b. Shake out used cartridge.
- 3.3 Shotshell Dispersion Control
- When desired, shotshell can be modified to reduce shot dispersion.
- Materials Required
- Shotshell
- Screwdriver or knife
- Any of the following filler materials:
- Crushed rice
- Rice flour
- Dry bread crumbs
- Fine dry sawdust
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully remove crimp from shotshell using a screwdriver or knife.
- Note: If cartridge is of roll-crimp type, remove
- top wad.
- 2. Pour shot from shell.
- 3. Replace one layer of shot in the cartridge. Pour
- in filler material to fill the spaces between the shot.
- 4. Repeat step 3 until all shot has been replaced.
- 5. Replace top wad (if applicable) and refold crimp.
- 6. Roll shell on flat surface to smooth out crimp and
- restore roundness.
- 7. Seal end of case with wax.
- How to Use
- This round is loaded and fired in the same manner as standard shotshell. The shot spread will be about
- 2/3 that of a standard round.
- 3.4 Carbine (7.62 mm Standard Rifle Ammunition)
- A rifle can be made from water or gas pipe and fittings. Standard cartridges are used for ammunition.
- Materials Required
- Wood approximately 2 inches x 4 inches x 30 inches
- 1/4 inch nominal size iron water or gas pipe 20 inches long threaded at one end
- 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch reducer
- 3/8 inch x 1-1/2 inch threaded pipe
- 3/8 inch pipe coupling
- Metal strap approximately 1/2 inch x 1/16 inch x 4 inches
- Twine, heavy (100 yards approximately)
- 3 wood screws and screwdriver
- Flat head nail about 1 inch long
- Hand drill
- Saw or knife
- File
- Pipe wrench
- Shellac or lacquer
- Elastic bands
- Solid 3/8 inch pipe plug
- Procedure
- 1. Inspect pipe and fittings carefully.
- a. Be sure that there are no cracks or flaws.
- b. Check inside diameter of pipe. A 7.62 mm projectile should fit into 3/8 inch pipe.
- 2. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.
- 3. Cut a 1/4 inch deep “V” groove in top of the stock.
- 4. Fabricate rifle barrel from pipe.
- File or drill inside diameter of threaded end of 20 inch pipe for about 1/4 inch so neck of
- cartridge case will fit in.
- a.
- b. Screw reducer onto threaded pipe using pipe wrench.
- c. Screw short threaded pipe into reducer.
- Turn 3/8 pipe coupling onto threaded pipe using
- pipe wrench. All fittings should be as tight as
- possible. Do not split fittings.
- d.
- 5. Coat pipe and “V” groove of stock with shellac or lacquer. While still wet, place pipe in “V” groove
- and wrap pipe and stock together using two layers of twine. Coat twine with shellac or lacquer after
- each layer.
- 6. Drill a hole through center of pipe plug large enough for
- nail to pass through.
- 7. File threaded end of plug flat.
- 8. Push nail through plug and out off rounded 1/32 inch (2
- mm) past the plug.
- 9. Screw plug into coupling.
- 10. Bend 4 inch metal strap into “L” shape and
- drill hole for wood screw. Notch metal strap on
- the long side 1/2 inch from bend.
- 11. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit
- the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood
- screw.
- 12. Place screw in each side of stock about 4 inches in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands through
- notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of the stock.
- Safety Check – Test Fire Rifle Before Hand Firing
- 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behind to test fire weapon.
- 2. Mount rifle solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
- 3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the rifle.
- 4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.
- 5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back.
- 6. Release the cord to fire the rifle. (If the rifle does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their
- number.)
- Important: Fire at least five rounds from behind a barrier and then reinspect the rifle before you
- attempt to shoulder fire it.
- How to Operate Rifle
- 1. To Load:
- a. Remove plug from coupling.
- b. Put cartridge into pipe.
- c. Screw plug hand tight into coupling.
- 2. To Fire:
- a. Pull strap back and hold with thumb.
- b. Release strap.
- 3. To Unload Gun:
- a. Take plug out of coupling.
- b. Drive out used case using stick or twig.
- 3.5 Reusable Primer
- A method of making a previously fired primer reusable.
- Materials Required
- Used cartridge case
- 2 long nails having approximately the same diameter as the inside of the primer pocket
- “Strike-anywhere” matches – 2 or 3 are needed for each primer
- Vise
- Hammer
- Knife or other sharp edged instrument
- Procedure
- 1. File one nail to a needle point so that it is small
- enough to fit through hole in primer pocket.
- 2. Place cartridge case and nail between jaws of vise. Force out fired primer with nail as shown:
- 3. Remove anvil from primer cup.
- 4. File down point of second nail until tip is flat.
- 5. Remove indentations from face of primer cup with hammer and
- flattened nail.
- 6. Cut off tips of the heads of “strike-anywhere” matches using knife.
- Carefully crush the match tips on dry surface with wooden match stick
- until the mixture is the consistency of sugar.
- Caution: Do not crush more than 3 match tips at one time or the mixture may explode.
- 7. Pour mixture into primer cup. Compress mixture with
- wooden match stick until primer cup is fully packed.
- 8. Place anvil in primer pocket with legs down.
- 9. Place cup in pocket with mixture facing downward.
- 10. Place cartridge case and primer cup between vise jaws, and press slowly until primer is seated into
- bottom of pocket. The primer is now ready to use.
- 3.6 Pipe Pistol for .45 Caliber Ammunition
- A .45 caliber pistol can be made from 3/8 inch nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings.
- Lethal range is about 15 yards (13-1/2 meters).
- Materials Required
- Steel pipe, 3/8 inch (1 cm) nominal diameter and 6 inches (15 cm) long with threaded ends
- 2 threaded couplings to fit pipe
- Solid pipe plug to fit pipe coupling
- Hard wood, 8-1/2 inches x 6-1/2 inches x 1 inch (21 cm x 16-1/2 cm x 2-1/2 cm)
- Tape or string
- Flat head nail, approximately 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm) in diameter
- 2 wood screws, approximately 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm) in diameter
- Metal strap, 5 inches x 1/4 inch x 1/8 inch (12-1/2 cm x 6 mm x 1 mm)
- Bolt, 4 inches (10 cm) long, with nut (optional)
- Elastic bands
- Drills, one 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm) in diameter, and one having same diameter as bolt (optional)
- Rod, 1/4 inch (6 mm) in diameter and 8 inches (20 cm) long
- Saw or knife
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
- a. Make sure that there are no cracks or other flaws in the pipe and fittings.
- Check inside diameter of pipe using a .45 caliber cartridge as a gauge. The cartridge case should
- fit into the pipe snugly but without forcing.
- b.
- c. Outside diameter of pipe must not be less than 1-1/2 times the bullet diameter.
- 2. Follow procedure of section 3.1, steps 4, 5, and 6.
- 3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.
- Inches Centimeters
- 1-1/2 inch 4 cm
- 8-1/2 inch 21-1/2 cm
- 6 inch 15 cm
- 1-1/2 inch 4 cm
- 5 inch 12-1/2 cm
- 4. Cut a 3/8 inch (9-1/2 mm) deep groove in top of stock.
- 5. Screw couplings onto pipe. Screw plug into one coupling.
- 6. Securely attach pipe to stock using string or tape.
- 7. Follow procedures of section 3.1, steps 10 and 11.
- 8. (Optional) Bend bolt for trigger. Drill hole in stock and place bolt in hole so strap will be anchored
- by bolt when pulled back. If bolt is not available, use strap as trigger by pulling back and releasing.
- 9. Follow Safety Check, section 3.1.
- How to Use
- 1. To Load:
- a. Remove plug from rear coupling.
- Wrap string or elastic band around extractor
- groove so case will seat into barrel securely.
- b.
- c. Place cartridge in pipe.
- d. Replace plug.
- 2. To Fire:
- a. Pull metal strap back and anchor in trigger.
- b. Pull trigger when ready to fire.
- Note: If bolt is not used, pull strap back and release.
- 3. To Remove Cartridge Case:
- a. Remove plug from rear coupling.
- Insert rod into front of pistol and push cartridge
- case out.
- b.
- 3.7 Match Gun
- An improvised weapon using safety match heads as the propellant and a metal object as the projectile.
- Lethal range is about 40 yards (36 meters).
- Materials Required
- Metal pipe 24 inches (61 cm) long and 3/8 inch (1 cm) in diameter (nominal size) or its equivalent,
- threaded on one end
- End cap to fit pipe
- Safety matches – 3 books of 20 matches each
- Wood – 28 inches x 4 inches x 1 inch (70 cm x 10 cm x 2.5 cm)
- Toy caps or safety fuse or “Strike-anywhere” matches (2)
- Electrical tape or string
- Metal strap, about 4 inches x 1/4 inch x 3/16 inch (10 cm x 6 mm x 4.5 mm)
- 2 rags, about 1 in x 12 inches and 1 inch x 3 inches (2-1/2 cm x 30 cm and 2-1/2 cm x 8 cm)
- Wood screws
- Elastic bands
- Metal object (steel rod, bolt with head cut off, etc.), approximately 7/16 inch (11 mm) in diameter,
- and 7/16 inch (11 mm) long if iron or steel, 1-1/4 inch (31 mm) long if aluminum, 5/16 inch (8 mm)
- long if lead
- Metal disk 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) in diameter and 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm) thick
- Bolt, 3/32 inch (2-1/2 mm) or smaller in diameter and nut to fit
- Saw or knife
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. Be sure that there are no cracks or other flaws.
- 2. Drill small hole in center of end cap. If safety fuse is
- used, be sure it will pass through this hole.
- 3. Cut stock from wood using saw or knife.
- Metric English
- 5 cm 2 inches
- 10 cm 4 inches
- 36 cm 14 inches
- 71 cm 28 inches
- 4. Cut 3/8 inch (9-1/2 mm) deep “V” groove in top of stock.
- 5. Screw end cap onto pipe until finger tight.
- 6. Attach pipe to stock with string or tape.
- 7. Bend metal strap into “L” shape and drill
- holes for wood screw. Notch metal strap on
- long side 1/2 inch (1 cm) from bend.
- 8. Position metal strap on stock so that the top will hit the center of hole drilled in end cap.
- 9. Attach metal disk to strap with nut and bolt. This will
- deflect blast from hole in end cap when gun is fired. Be sure
- that head of bolt is centered on hole in end cap.
- 10. Attach strap to stock with wood screws.
- 11. Place screw on each side of stock about 4 inches (10 cm) in front of metal strap. Pass elastic bands
- through notch in metal strap and attach to screw on each side of stock.
- How to Use
- A. When Toy Caps Are Available:
- 1. Cut off match heads from 3 books of matches
- with knife. Pour match heads into pipe.
- 2. Fold one end of 1 inch x 12 inch rag 3 times so that it
- becomes a one inch square of 3 thicknesses. Place rag into pipe
- to cover match heads, folded end first. Tamp firmly with
- caution.
- 3. Place metal object into pipe. Place 1 inch x 3 inch rag into pipe to cover projectile. Tamp firmly with
- caution.
- 4. Place 2 toy caps over small hole in end cap.
- Be sure metal strap will hit caps when it is
- released.
- Note: It may be necessary to tape toy caps to end
- cap.
- 5. When ready to fire, pull metal strap back and release.
- B. When “Strike-Anywhere” Matches Are Available:
- 1. Follow steps 1 through 3 in A.
- 2. Carefully cut off tips of heads of 2 “strike-anywhere” matches with
- knife.
- 3. Place one tip in hole in end cap. Push in with wooden end of match stick.
- 4. Place second match tip on a piece of tape.
- Place tape so match tip is directly over hole in
- end cap.
- 5. When ready to fire, pull metal strap back and release.
- C. When Safety Fuse Is Available: (Recommended for Booby Traps)
- 1. Remove end cap from pipe. Knot one end of
- safety fuse. Thread safety fuse through hole in end
- cap so that knot is on inside of end cap.
- 2. Follow steps 1 through 3 in A.
- 3. Tie several matches to safety fuse near outside
- of end cap.
- Note: Bare end of safety fuse should be inside match head cluster.
- 4. Wrap match covers around matches and tie.
- Striker should be in contact with match bands.
- 5. Replace end cap on pipe.
- 6. When ready to fire, pull match cover off with strong, firm, quick motion.
- Safety Check – Test Fire Gun Before Hand Firing
- 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behind in case the weapon
- explodes when fired.
- 2. Mount gun solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier.
- 3. Attach a long cord to the firing strap on the gun.
- 4. Holding the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier.
- 5. Pull the cord so that the firing strap is held back.
- 6. Release the cord to fire the gun. (If gun does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their
- number.)
- Important: Fire at least five rounds from behind the barrier and then reinspect the gun before
- you attempt to shoulder fire it.
- 3.8 Rifle Cartridge
- Note: See section 3.5 for reusable primer.
- A method of making a previously fired rifle cartridge reusable.
- Materials Required
- Empty rifle cartridge, be sure that it still fits inside gun
- Threaded bolt that fits into neck of cartridge at least 1-1/4 inch (3 cm) long
- Safety or “strike-anywhere” matches (about 58 matches are needed for 7.62 mm cartridge)
- Rag wad (about 3/4 inch (1-1/2 cm) square for 7.62 mm cartridge)
- Knife
- Saw
- Note: Number of matches and size of rag wad depend on particular cartridge used.
- Procedure
- 1. Remove coating on heads of matches
- by scraping match sticks with sharp edge.
- Caution: If wooden “strike-anywhere” matches are
- used, cut off tips first. Discard tips or use for Reusable
- Primer, section 3.5.
- 2. Fill previously primed cartridge case with
- match head coatings up to its neck. Pack evenly
- and tightly with match stick.
- Caution: Remove head of match stick before packing. In all packing operations, stand off to the
- side and pack gently. Do not hammer.
- 3. Place rag wad in neck of case. Pack
- with match stick from which head was
- removed.
- 4. Saw off head end of bolt so remainder is
- approximately the length of the standard bullet.
- 5. Place bolt in cartridge case so that it sticks out about the same length as the original bullet.
- Note: If bolt does not fit snugly, force paper or match sticks between bolt and case, or wrap tape around
- bolt before inserting in case.
- 3.9 Pipe Pistol for .38 Caliber Ammunition
- A .38 caliber pistol can be made from 1/4 inch nominal diameter steel gas or water pipe and fittings.
- Lethal range is approximately 33 yards (30 meters).
- Materials Required
- Steel pipe, 1/4 inch (6 mm) nominal diameter and 6 inches
- (15 cm) long with threaded ends (nipple)
- Solid pipe plug, 1/4 inch (6 mm) nominal diameter
- 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/4 inch (6 mm) nominal diameter
- Metal strap, approximately 1/8 inch x 1/4 inch x 5 inches
- (3 mm x 6 mm x 125 mm or 12-1/2 cm)
- Elastic bands
- Flat head nail – 6D or 8D, approximately 1/16 inch
- diameter (1-1/2 mm)
- 2 wood screws, #8
- Hard wood, 8 inches x 5 inches x 1 inch (20 cm x 12-1/2
- cm x 2-1/2 cm)
- Drill
- Wood or metal rod, 1/4 inch (6 mm) diameter and 8 inches
- (20 cm) long
- Saw or knife
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
- a. Make sure that there are no cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings.
- Check inside diameter of pipe using a .38 caliber cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should fit
- closely into the pipe without forcing, but the cartridge case should not fit into the pipe.
- b.
- c. Outside diameter of pipe must not be less than 1-1/2 times the bullet diameter.
- 2. Drill a 35/64 inch (14 mm) diameter hole 3/4 inch (2 cm)
- into one coupling to remove the thread. Drilled section
- should fit tightly over smooth section of pipe.
- 3. Drill a 25/64 inch (1 cm) diameter hole 1-1/8 inch
- (2.86 cm) into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when a
- cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the shoulder of the
- case should butt against the end of the pipe. Thread
- coupling tightly onto pipe, drilled end first.
- 4. Follow procedures of section 3.1, steps 4 through 11.
- 5. Follow Safety Check, section 3.1.
- How to Operate Pistol
- Follow procedures of How to Operate Pistol, section 3.1, steps 1, 2, and 3.
- 3.10 Pipe Pistol for .22 Caliber Ammunition —
- Long or Short Cartridge
- A .22 caliber pistol can be made from 1/8 inch nominal diameter extra heavy, steel gas or water pipe
- and fittings. Lethal range is approximately 33 yards (30 meters).
- Materials Required
- Steel pipe, extra heavy, 1/8 inch (3 mm) nominal diameter
- and 6 inches (15 cm) long with threaded ends (nipple)
- Solid pipe plug, 1/8 inch (3 mm) nominal diameter
- 2 steel pipe couplings, 1/8 inch (3 mm) nominal diameter
- Metal strap, approximately 1/8 inch x 1/4 inch x 5 inches
- (3 mm x 6 mm x 125 mm or 12-1/2 cm)
- Elastic bands
- Flat head nail – 6D or 8D (approximately 1/16 inch (1-1/2
- mm) diameter
- 2 wood screws, #8
- Hard wood, 8 inches x 5 inches x 1 inch (20 cm x 12-1/2
- cm x 2-1/2 cm)
- Drill
- Wood or metal rod, 1/8 inch (3 mm) diameter and 8
- inches (20 cm) long
- Saw or knife
- Procedure
- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings.
- a. Make sure that there are no cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings.
- Check inside diameter of pipe using a .22 caliber cartridge, long or short, as a gauge. The bullet
- should fit closely into the pipe without forcing, but the cartridge case should not fit into the
- pipe.
- b.
- c. Outside diameter of pipe must not be less than 1-1/2 times the bullet diameter.
- 2. Drill a 15/64 inch (1/2 cm) diameter
- hole 9/16 inch (1-1/2 cm) deep in pipe for
- long cartridge. (If a short cartridge is used,
- drill hole 3/8 inch (1 cm) deep.) When a
- cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the
- shoulder of the case should butt against
- the end of the pipe.
- 3. Screw the coupling onto the pipe. Cut coupling length to allow pipe plug to thread in pipe flush
- against the cartridge case.
- 4. Drill a hole off center of the pipe plug just large
- enough for the nail to fit through.
- Note: Drilled hole must be off center in plug.
- 5. Push nail through pipe plug until head of nail is flush with
- square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm)
- away from plug. Round off end with file.
- 6. Follow procedures of section 3.1, steps 6 through 11.
- 7. Follow Safety Check, section 3.1.
- How to Operate
- Follow procedures of How to Operate Pistol, section 3.1, steps 1, 2, and 3.
- 3.11 Low Signature System
- Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons (section 3) can be made from
- steel gas or water pipe and fittings.
- Materials Required
- Grenade container
- Steel pipe nipple, 6 inches (15 cm) long – see Table I for diameter
- 2 steel pipe couplings – see Table II for dimensions
- Cotton cloth – see Table II for dimensions
- Drill
- Absorbent cotton
- Procedure
- 1. Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter of pipe nipple. (See Table I.)
- 2. Drill four (4) rows of holes in pipe nipple. Use Table I for diameter and location of holes.
- Table I
- Low Signature System Dimensions
- A B C (Coupling)
- D
- Holes
- per
- Row
- (4-Rows)
- Total
- .45 caliber 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48
- .38 caliber 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48
- 9 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48
- 7.62 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48
- .22 caliber 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8 14 50
- *Extra heavy pipe
- All dimensions in inches
- 3. Thread one of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple.
- 4. Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread fully into low signature system. Barrel
- should butt against end of the drilled pipe nipple.
- 5. Separate the top half of the grenade container
- from the bottom half.
- 6. Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the
- base of the bottom half of container. Pack the
- absorbent cotton inside the container and around
- the pipe nipple.
- 7. Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving hole in center. Assemble container
- to the bottom half.
- 8. Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.
- Note: A longer container and pipe nipple, with same “A” and “B” dimensions as those given, will
- further reduce the signature of the system.
- How to Use
- 1. Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely.
- 2. Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system.
- Table II
- Cotton Wadding – Sizes
- Weapon Cotton Wad Size
- .45 caliber 1-1/2 x 6 inches
- .38 caliber 1 x 4 inches
- 9 mm 1 x 4 inches
- 7.62 mm 1 x 4 inches
- .22 caliber Not needed
- 3. Load weapon.
- 4. Weapon is now ready for use.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 4
- Mortars and Rockets
- 4.1 Recoilless Launcher
- A dual directional scrap fragment launcher which can be placed to cover the path of advancing
- troops.
- Materials Required
- Iron water pipe approximately 4 feet (1 meter) long and 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) in diameter
- Black powder (commercial) or salvaged artillery propellant about 1/2 pound (200 grams)
- Safety or improvised fuse (section 6.7) or improvised electrical igniter (section 6.2)
- Stones and/or metal scrap chunks approximately 1/2 inch (1 cm) in diameter – about 1 pound (400
- grams) total
- 4 rags for wadding, each about 20 inches by 20 inches (50 cm by 50 cm)
- Wire
- Paper or rag
- Note: Be sure that the water pipe has no cracks or flaws.
- Procedure
- 1. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie
- with string so contents cannot fall out.
- 2. Insert packaged propellant and igniter in center of pipe. Pull firing leads out one end of pipe.
- 3. Stuff a rag wad into each end of pipe and lightly tamp using a flat end stick.
- 4. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into each end of pipe. Be sure the same weight of material is used
- in each side.
- 5. Insert a rag wad into each end of the pipe and pack tightly as before.
- How to Use
- 1. Place scrap mine in a tree or pointed in the path of the enemy. Attach igniter lead to the firing
- circuit. The recoilless launcher is now ready to fire.
- 2. If safety or improvised fuse is used instead of the detonator, place the fuse into the packaged
- propellant through a hole drilled in the center of the pipe. Light free end of fuse when ready to fire.
- Allow for normal delay time.
- Caution: Scrap will be ejected from both ends of the launcher.
- 4.2 Shotgun Grenade Launcher
- This device can be used to launch a hand grenade to a distance of 160 yards (150 meters) or more,
- using a standard 12 gauge shotgun.
- Materials Required
- Grenade (Improvised pipe hand grenade, section 2.1, may be used)
- 12 gauge shotgun
- 12 gauge shotgun cartridges
- Two washers, (brass, steel, iron, etc.), having outside diameter of 5/8 inch (1-1/2 cm)
- Rubber disk 3/4 inch (2 cm) in diameter and 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick (leather, neoprene, etc. can be
- used)
- A 30 inch (75 cm) long piece of hard wood (maple, oak, etc.) approximately 5/8 inch (1-1/2 cm) in
- diameter. Be sure that wood will slide into barrel easily.
- Tin can (grenade and its safety lever must fit into can)
- Two wooden blocks about 2 inches (5 cm) square and 1-1/2 inch (4 cm) thick
- One wood screw about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) long
- Two nails about 2 inches (5 cm) long
- 12 gauge wads, tissue paper, or cotton
- Adhesive tape, string, or wire
- Drill
- Procedure
- 1. Punch hole in center of rubber disk large enough for screw to pass through.
- 2. Make pushrod as shown.
- Note: Gun barrel is slightly less than 3/4 inch in diameter. If rubber disk does not fit in barrel, file or
- trim it very slightly. It should fit tightly.
- 3. Drill a hole through the center of one wooden
- block of such size that the pushrod will fit tightly.
- Whittle a depression around the hole on one side
- approximately 1/8 inch (3 mm) and large enough
- for the grenade to rest in.
- 4. Place the base of the grenade in the depression in the
- wooden block. Securely fasten grenade to block by wrapping
- tape (or wire) around entire grenade and block.
- Note: Be sure that the tape (or wire) does not cover hole in
- block or interfere with the operation of the grenade safety
- lever.
- 5. Drill hole through the center of the second wooden block, so that it will just slide over the outside
- of the gun barrel.
- 6. Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of the tin can the same size as the hole in the block.
- 7. Attach can to block as shown.
- 8. Slide the can and block onto the barrel until muzzle passes can open end. Wrap a small piece of
- tape around the barrel an inch or two from the end. Tightly wrapped string may be used instead of
- tape. Force the can and wooden block forward against the tape so that they are securely held in
- place. Wrap tape around the barrel behind the can.
- Caution: Be sure that the can is securely fastened to the gun barrel. If the can should become
- loose and slip down the barrel after the launcher is assembled, the grenade will explode after
- the regular delay time.
- 9. Remove crimp from a 12 gauge shotgun cartridge
- with pen knife. Open cartridge. Pour shot from shell.
- Remove wads and plastic liner if present.
- 10. Empty the propellant onto a piece of paper. Using a
- knife, divide the propellant in half. Replace half of the
- propellant into the cartridge case.
- 11. Replace the 12 gauge cardboard wads into cartridge case.
- Note: If wads are not available, stuff tissue paper or cotton
- into the cartridge case. Pack tightly.
- How to Use
- Method I – When Ordinary Grenade is Used
- 1. Load cartridge in gun.
- 2. Push end of pushrod without the rubber disk into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade.
- 3. Slowly push rod into barrel until it rests against the cartridge case and grenade is in can. If the
- grenade is not in the can, remove rod and cut to proper size. Push rod back into barrel.
- 4. With can holding safety lever of grenade in place, carefully remove safety pin.
- Caution: Be sure that the sides of the can restrain the grenade safety lever. If the safety lever
- should be released for any reason, grenade will explode after regular grenade delay time.
- 5. To fire grenade launcher, rest gun in ground at angle determined by range desired. A 45 degree
- angle should give about 150 meters (160 yards).
- Method II – When Improvised Pipe Grenade is Used
- An improvised pipe grenade (section 2.1) may be launched in a similar manner. No tin can is
- needed.
- 1. Fasten the grenade to the block as shown above with the fuse hole at the end opposite the block.
- 2. Push end of pushrod into hole in wooden block fastened to grenade.
- 3. Push rod into barrel until it rests against cartridge case.
- 4. Load cartridge in gun.
- 5. Follow step 5 of Method I.
- 6. Using a fuse with at least a 10 second delay, light the fuse before firing.
- 7. Fire when the fuse burns to 1/2 its original length.
- 4.3 Grenade Launcher (57 mm Cardboard
- Container)
- An improvised method of launching a standard grenade 150 yards (135 meters) or an improvised
- grenade 90 yards (81 meters) using a discarded cardboard ammunition container.
- Materials Required
- Heavy cardboard container with inside diameter of 2-1/2 to 3 inches (5-1/2 to 8 cm) and at least 12
- inches (30 cm) long (ammunition container is suitable)
- Black powder – 8 grams (124 grains) or less
- Safety or improvised fuse (section 6.7)
- Grenade (Improvised hand grenade, section 2.1, may be used)
- Rag, approximately 30 inches x 24 inches (75 cm x 60 cm)
- Paper
- Caution: 8 grams of black powder yield the maximum ranges. Do not use more than this
- amount. See Improvised Scale, section 7.8, for measuring.
- Procedure
- Method I – If Standard Grenade is Used
- 1. Discard top of container. Make small hole in
- bottom.
- 2. Place black powder in paper. Tie end with string
- so contents cannot fall out. Place package in
- container.
- 3. Insert rag wadding into container. Pack
- tightly with caution.
- 4. Measure off a length of fuse that will give
- the desired delay. Thread this through hole in
- bottom of container so that it penetrates into
- the black powder package.
- Note: If improvised fuse is used, be sure fuse fits loosely through hole in bottom of container.
- 5. Hold grenade safety lever and carefully
- withdraw safety pin from grenade. Insert
- grenade into container, lever end first.
- Caution: If grenade safety lever should be released for any reason, grenade will explode after
- normal delay time.
- 6. Bury container about 6 inches (15 cm) in the ground at 30° angle, bringing fuse up alongside
- container. Pack ground tightly around container.
- Caution: The tightly packed dirt helps to hold the tube together during the firing. Do not fire
- unless at least the bottom half of the container is buried in solidly packed dirt.
- Method II – If Improvised Pipe Hand Grenade is Used
- 1. Follow step 1 of above procedure.
- 2. Measure off a piece of fuse at least as long as the cardboard container. Tape one end of this to the
- fuse from the blasting cap in the improvised grenade. Be sure ends of fuse are in contact with each
- other.
- 3. Place free end of fuse and black powder on piece of paper. Tie ends with string so contents will
- not fall out.
- 4. Place package in tube. Insert rag wadding. Pack so it fits snugly. Place pipe hand grenade into
- tube. Be sure it fits snugly.
- 5. Insert fuse through hole in end of cardboard
- container. Be sure it goes into black powder
- package.
- Note: Cardboard container may be used for only
- one firing.
- 6. Follow step 6 of Method I.
- How to Use
- Light fuse when ready to fire.
- 4.4 Fire Bottle Launcher
- A device using 2 items (shotgun and chemical fire bottle) that can be used to start or place a fire 80
- yards (72 meters) from launcher.
- Materials Required
- Standard 12 gauge or improvised shotgun (section 3.2)
- Improvised fire bottle (section 5.1)
- Tin can, about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter and 5-1/2 inches (14 cm) high
- Wood, about 3 inches x 3 inches x 2 inches (7-1/2 cm x 7-1/2 cm x 5 cm)
- Nail, at least 3 inches (7-1/2 cm) long
- Nuts and bolts or nails, at least 2-1/2 inches (6-1/2 cm) long
- Rag
- Paper
- Drill
- If Standard Shotgun is Used
- Hard wood stick, about the same length as shotgun barrel and about 5/8 inch (1-1/2 cm) in
- diameter. Stick need not be round.
- 2 washers (brass, steel, iron, etc.) having outside diameter of 5/8 inch (1-1/2 cm)
- One wood screw about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) long
- Rubber disk, 3/4 inch (2 cm) in diameter and 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick. Leather, cardboard, etc. can be
- used.
- 12 gauge shotgun ammunition
- If Improvised Shotgun is Used
- Fuse, safety or improvised fast burning (section 6.7)
- Hard wood stick, about the same length as shotgun barrel and 3/4 inch (2 cm) in diameter
- Black powder – 9 grams (135 grains). See section 7.8.
- Procedure
- Method I – If Improvised Shotgun is Used
- 1. Drill hole in center of wood block approximately 1
- inch (2-1/2 cm) deep. Hole should have approximately
- the same diameter as the wooden stick.
- 2. Drill 2 small holes on opposite sides of the wooden
- block. Hole should be large enough for bolts to pass
- through.
- 3. Fasten can to block with nuts and
- bolts.
- Note: Can may also be securely
- fastened to block by hammering several
- nails through can and block. Do not drill
- holes, and be careful not to split wood.
- 4. Place wooden stick into hole in
- wooden block. Drill small hole (same
- diameter as that of 3 inch nail) through
- wooden block and through wooden
- stick. Insert nail in hole.
- 5. Crumple paper and place in bottom of can. Place another piece of paper around fire bottle and
- insert in can. Use enough paper so that bottle will fit snugly.
- 6. Place safety fuse and black powder on paper. Tie each end with string.
- 7. Thread fuse through hole in plug. Place powder package in rear of shotgun. Screw plug finger
- tight into coupling.
- Note: Hole in plug may have to be enlarged for fuse.
- 8. Insert rag into front of shotgun. Pick rag against powder package with stick. Use caution.
- Method II – If Standard Shotgun is Used
- 1. Follow steps 1 and 2, Shotgun Grenade Launcher, section 4.2.
- 2. Follow procedure of Method I, steps 1–5.
- 3. Follow steps 9, 10, 11, Shotgun Grenade Launcher, section 4.2, using 1/3 of total propellant
- instead of 1/2.
- 4. Load cartridge in gun.
- How to Use
- 1. Insert stick and holder containing chemical fire bottle.
- Caution: Do not tilt muzzle downward.
- 2. Hold gun against ground at 45° angle and light fuse.
- Note: Steps 1 and 2, How to Use, same for both standard and improvised shotguns.
- Caution: Severe burns may result if bottle shatters when fired. If possible, obtain a bottle
- identical to that being used as the fire bottle. Fill about 2/3 full of water and fire as above. If
- bottle shatters when fired instead of being launched intact, use a different type of bottle.
- 4.5 Grenade Launchers
- A variety of grenade launchers can be fabricated from metal pipes and fittings. Ranges up to 600
- meters (660 yards) can be obtained depending on length of tube, charge, number of grenades, and
- angle of firing.
- Materials Required
- Metal pipe, threaded on one end and approximately 2-1/2 inches (6-1/4 cm) in diameter and 14
- inches to 4 feet (35 cm to 119 cm) long depending on range desired and number of grenades used
- End cap to fit pipe
- Black powder, 15 to 50 grams, approximately 1-1/4 to 4-1/4 tablespoons (section 1.3)
- Safety fuse, fast burning improvised fuse
- (section 6.7) or
- Improvised electric bulb initiator (section 6.1
- – automobile light bulb is needed)
- Grenade(s) – 1 to 6
- Rag(s) – about 30 inches x 30 inches (75 cm x 75 cm) and 20 inches x 20 inches (55 cm x 55 cm)
- Drill
- String
- Note: Examine pipe carefully to be sure there are no cracks or other flaws.
- Procedure
- Method I – If Fuse is Used
- 1. Drill small hole through center of end cap.
- 2. Make small knot near one end of fuse. Place black powder and knotted end of fuse in paper and tie
- with string.
- 3. Thread fuse through hole in end cap and place package in end
- cap. Screw end cap onto pipe, being careful that black powder
- package is not caught between the threads.
- 4. Roll rag wad so that it is about 6 inches (15 cm) long
- and has approximately the same diameter as the pipe. Push
- rolled rag into open-end of pipe until it rests against black
- powder package.
- 5. Hold grenade safety lever in place and carefully withdraw
- safety pin.
- Caution: If grenade safety lever is released for any reason, grenade will explode after regular
- time (4–5 seconds).
- 6. Holding safety lever in place, carefully push grenade into pipe, lever end first, until it rests against
- rag wad.
- 7. The following table lists various types of grenade launchers and their performance characteristics.
- Desired
- Range
- Number of
- Grenades
- Launched
- Black
- Powder
- Charge
- Pipe
- Length
- Firing
- Angle
- 250 m 1 15 grams 14 inches 30°
- 500 m 1 50 grams 48 inches 10°
- 600 m (a) 1 50 grams 48 inches 30°
- 200 m 6 (b) 25 grams 48 inches 30°
- (a)For this range, an additional delay is required. See section 6.11 and section 6.12.
- (b)For multiple grenade launcher, load as shown.
- Note: Since performance of different black powder varies, fire several test rounds to determine the
- exact amount of powder necessary to achieve the desired range.
- How to Use
- 1. Bury at least 1/2 of the launcher pipe in the ground at desired angle. Open end should face the
- expected path of the enemy. Muzzle may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dirt and/or
- leaves as camouflage. Be sure cardboard prevents dirt from entering pipe.
- Note: The 14 inch launcher may be hand held against the ground instead of being buried.
- 2. Light fuse when ready to fire.
- Method II – If Electrical Igniter is Used
- Note: Be sure that bulb is in good operating condition.
- 1. Prepare electric bulb initiator as described in section 6.1.
- 2. Place electric initiator and black powder charge in paper. Tie ends of paper with string.
- 3. Follow above procedure, steps 3 to end.
- How to Use
- 1. Follow above How to Use, step 1.
- 2. Connect leads to firing circuit. Close circuit when ready to fire.
- 4.6 60 mm Mortar Projectile Launcher
- A device to launch 60 mm mortar rounds using a metal pipe 2-1/2 inches (6 cm) in diameter and 4
- feet (120 cm) long as the launching tube.
- Materials Required
- Mortar, projectile (60 mm) and charge increments
- Metal pipe 2-1/2 inches (6 cm) in diameter and 4 feet (120 cm) long, threaded on one end
- Threaded end cap to fit pipe
- Bolt, 1/8 inch (3 mm) in diameter and at least 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) long
- Two (2) nuts to fit bolt
- File
- Drill
- Procedure
- 1. Drill hole 1/8 inch (3 mm) in diameter through center of end
- cap.
- 2. Round off end of bolt with file.
- 3. Place bolt through hole in end cap. Secure in place with nuts as
- illustrated.
- 4. Screw end cap onto pipe tightly. Tube is now ready for
- use.
- How to Use
- 1. Bury launching tube in ground at desired angle
- so that bottom of tube is at least 2 feet (60 cm)
- under ground. Adjust the number of increments
- in rear finned end of mortar projectile. See
- following table for launching angle and number
- of increments used.
- 2. When ready to fire, withdraw safety wire
- from mortar projectile. Drop projectile into
- launching tube, finned end first.
- Caution: Be sure bore riding pin is in place in fuse when mortar projectile is dropped into
- tube. A live mortar round could explode in the tube if the fit is loose enough to permit the bore
- riding pin to come out partway.
- Caution: The round will fire as soon as the projectile is dropped into tube. Keep all parts of
- body behind the open end of the tube.
- Desired
- Range
- (Yards)
- Maximum
- Height
- Mortar
- Will Reach
- (Yards)
- Required Angle
- of Elevation of
- Tube (Measured
- from Horizontal
- Degrees)
- Charge –
- Number of
- Increments
- 150 25 40 0
- 300 50 40 1
- 700 150 40 2
- 1000 225 40 3
- 1500 300 40 4
- 125 75 60 0
- 300 125 60 1
- 550 250 60 2
- 1000 375 60 3
- 1440 600 60 4
- 75 100 80 0
- 150 200 80 1
- 300 350 80 2
- 400 600 80 3
- 550 750 80 4
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 5
- Incendiary Devices
- 5.1 Chemical Fire Bottle
- This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on target impact.
- Materials Required How Used Source
- Sulfuric acid Storage batteries
- Material processing
- Motor vehicles
- Industrial plants
- Gasoline Motor fuel Gas station or
- motor vehicles
- Potassium chlorate Medicine Drug store
- Sugar Sweetening foods Food store
- Glass bottle with stopper (roughly 1 quart size)
- Small bottle or jar with lid
- Rag or absorbent paper (paper towels, newspaper)
- String or rubber bands
- Procedure
- 1. Sulfuric acid must be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by
- boiling until dense white fumes are given off. Container used should be of enamelware or oven
- glass.
- Caution: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with
- a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
- 2. Remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
- 3. Pour gasoline into the large (1 quart) bottle until it is approximately 2/3 full.
- 4. Add concentrated sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the bottle is filled to within 1 inch to 2
- inches from top. Place the stopper on the bottle.
- 5. Wash the outside of the bottle thoroughly with clear water.
- Caution: If this is not done, the fire bottle may be dangerous to handle during use.
- 6. Wrap a clean cloth or several sheets of absorbent paper
- around the outside of the bottle. Tie with string or fasten
- with rubber bands.
- 7. Dissolve 1/2 cup (100 grams) of potassium chlorate and 1/2 cup (100 grams) of sugar in one cup
- (250 milliliters) of boiling water.
- 8. Allow the solution to cool, pour into the small bottle and cap tightly. The cooled solution should
- be approximately 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid. If there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before
- using.
- Caution: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.
- How to Use
- 1. Shake the small bottle to mix contents and
- pour onto the cloth or paper around the large
- bottle. Bottle can be used wet or after solution
- has dried. However, when dry, the sugar –
- potassium chlorate mixture in very sensitive to
- spark or flame and should be handled
- accordingly.
- 2. Throw or launch the bottle. When the bottle breaks against a hard surface (target) the fuel will
- ignite.
- 5.2 Igniter from Book Matches
- This is a hot igniter made from paper book matches for use with molotov cocktail and other
- incendiaries.
- Materials Required
- Paper book matches
- Adhesive or friction tape
- Procedure
- 1. Remove the staple(s) from match book and separate
- matches from cover.
- 2. Fold and tape one row of matches.
- 3. Shape the cover into a tube with striking surface on
- the inside and tape. Make sure the folded cover will fit
- tightly around the taped match heads. Leave cover
- open at opposite end for insertion of the matches.
- 4. Push the taped matches into the tube until the bottom
- ends are exposed about 3/4 inch (2 cm).
- 5. Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it laps
- over about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm); tape in place.
- Use with Molotov Cocktail
- Tape the “match end tab” of the igniter to the
- neck of the molotov cocktail.
- Grasp the “cover end tab” and pull sharply or
- quickly to ignite.
- General Use
- The book match igniter can be used by itself to ignite flammable liquids, fuse cords and similar
- items requiring hot ignition.
- Caution: Store matches and completed igniters in moistureproof containers such as rubber or
- plastic bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite.
- 5.3 Mechanically Initiated Fire Bottle
- The mechanically initiated fire bottle is an incendiary device which ignites when thrown against a
- hard surface.
- Materials Required
- Glass jar or short neck bottle with a leakproof lid or stopper
- “Tin” can or similar container just large enough to fit over the lid of
- the jar
- Coil spring (compression) approximately 1/2 the diameter of the can
- and 1-1/2 times as long
- Gasoline
- Four (4) “blue tip” matches
- Flat stick or piece of metal (roughly 1/2 inch x 1/16 inch x 4 inches)
- Wire or heavy twine
- Adhesive tape
- Procedure
- 1. Draw or scratch two lines around the can – one 3/4
- inch (19 mm) and the other 1-1/4 inch (30 mm) from the
- open end.
- 2. Cut 2 slots on opposite sides of the tin can at the line
- farthest from the open end. Make slots large enough for
- the flat stick or piece of metal to pass through.
- 3. Punch 2 small holes just below the rim of the open
- end of the can.
- 4. Tape blue tip matches together in pairs.
- The distance between the match heads
- should equal the inside diameter of the can.
- Two pairs are sufficient.
- 5. Attach paired matches to second and third
- coils of the spring, using thin wire.
- 6. Insert the end of the spring opposite the
- matches into the tin can.
- 7. Compress the spring until the end with the
- matches passes the slot in the can. Pass the
- flat stick or piece of metal through slots in
- can to hold spring in place. This acts as a
- safety device.
- 8. Punch many closely spaced small holes
- between the lines marked on the can to
- form a striking surface for the matches. Be
- careful not to seriously deform can.
- 9. Fill the jar with gasoline and cap tightly.
- 10. Turn can over and place over the jar so that the safety stick
- rests on the lid of the jar.
- 11. Pass wire or twine around the bottom of the jar. Thread
- ends through holes in can and bind tightly to jar.
- 12. Tape wire or cord to jar near the bottom.
- How to Use
- 1. Carefully withdraw flat safety stick.
- 2. Throw jar at hard surface.
- Caution: Do not remove safety stick until ready to throw fire bottle. The safety stick,
- when in place, prevents ignition of the fire bottle if it should accidentally be broken.
- 5.4 Gelled Flame Fuels
- Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline for use in incendiary devices such as
- fire bottles. This type fuel adheres more readily to the target and produces greater heat concentration.
- Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonly available materials. The methods
- are divided into the following categories based on the major ingredient:
- 5.4.1 Lye Systems
- 5.4.2 Lye-Alcohol Systems
- 5.4.3 Soap-Alcohol System
- 5.4.4 Egg White Systems
- 5.4.5 Latex Systems
- 5.4.6 Wax Systems
- 5.4.7 Animal Blood Systems
- 5.4.1 Gelled Flame Fuels — Lye Systems
- Lye (also known as caustic soda or sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with powdered
- rosin or castor oil to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
- Note: This fuel is not suitable for use in the chemical (sulfuric acid) type of fire bottle section 5.1.
- The acid will react with the lye and break down the gel.
- Materials Required
- Parts by
- Volume Ingredient How Used Source
- 60 Gasoline Motor fuel Gas station or
- motor vehicle
- 2 (flake) or
- 1 (powder) Lye Drain cleaner,
- making of soap
- Food store
- Drug store
- 15
- Rosin
- or
- Castor Oil
- Manufacturing
- Paint & varnish
- Naval stores
- Industry
- Medicine Food and drug stores
- Procedure
- Caution: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the flame fuel. No
- smoking!
- 1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (Do not use an aluminum container.)
- 2. If rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces.
- 3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for about five (5) minutes to mix thoroughly.
- 4. In a second container (not aluminum) add lye to an equal volume of water slowly with stirring.
- Caution: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash away
- immediately with large quantities of water.
- 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens (about one minute).
- Note: The sample will eventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if desired, by
- stirring in additional gasoline.
- 5.4.2 Gelled Flame Fuels — Lye-Alcohol Systems
- Lye (also known as caustic soda or sodium hydroxide) can be used in combination with alcohol and
- any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel.
- Note: This fuel is not suitable for use in the chemical (sulfuric acid) type of fire bottle section 5.1.
- The acid will react with the lye and break down the gel.
- Materials Required
- Parts by
- Volume Ingredient How Used Source
- 60 Gasoline Motor fuel Gas station or
- motor vehicles
- 2 (flake) or
- 1 (powder) Lye Drain cleaner
- Making of soap
- Food store
- Drug store
- 3 Ethyl alcohol* Whiskey
- Medicine
- Liquor store
- Drug store
- 14 Tallow Food
- Making of soap Fat rendered by cooking the meat or suet of animals
- *Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substituted for ethyl alcohol, but their
- use produces softer gels.
- Note: The following can be substituted for the tallow:
- a. Wool grease (lanolin) (very good) – fat extracted from sheep wool
- b. Castor oil (good)
- c. Any vegetable oil (corn, cottonseed, peanut, linseed, etc.)
- d. Any fish oil
- e. Butter or oleomargarine
- It is necessary when using substitutes (c) to (e) to double the given amount of fat and of lye for
- satisfactory bodying.
- Procedure
- Caution: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels. No
- smoking!
- 1. Pour gasoline into bottle, jar or other container. (Do not use an aluminum container.)
- 2. Add tallow (or substitute) to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 minute to dissolve fat.
- 3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture.
- 4. In a separate container (not aluminum) slowly add lye to an equal amount of water. Mixture
- should be stirred constantly while adding lye.
- Caution: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash away
- immediately with large quantities of water.
- 5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until thickened (about 1/2 hour).
- Note: The mixture will eventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste. This can be thinned, if
- desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
- 5.4.3 Gelled Flame Fuels — Soap-Alcohol System
- Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gel gasoline for use as a flame
- fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
- Materials Required
- Parts by
- Volume Ingredient How Used Source
- 36 Gasoline Motor fuel Gas station
- Motor vehicles
- 1 Ethyl alcohol* Whiskey
- Medicine
- Liquor store
- Drug store
- 20 (powdered)
- or 28 (flake) Laundry soap Washing clothes Stores
- *Methyl (wood) or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohols can be substituted for the whiskey.
- Note: Unless the word “soap” actually appears somewhere on the container or wrapper, a washing
- compound is probably a detergent. These can not be used.
- Procedure
- Caution: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels. No
- smoking!
- 1. If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife.
- 2. Pour alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle or other container and mix thoroughly.
- 3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix and stir occasionally until thickened (about 15
- minutes).
- 5.4.4 Gelled Flame Fuels — Egg White Systems
- The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to
- target surfaces.
- Materials Required
- Parts by
- Volume Ingredient How Used Source
- 85 Gasoline
- Motor fuel
- Stove fuel
- Solvent
- Gas station
- Motor vehicles
- 14 Egg whites Food
- Industrial processes
- Food store
- Farms
- Any one of the following:
- 1 Table salt Food
- Industrial processes
- Sea water
- Natural brine
- Food store
- 3 Ground coffee Food Coffee plant
- Food store
- 3 Dried tea leaves Food Tea plant
- Food store
- 3 Cocoa Food Cacao tree
- Food store
- 2 Sugar Sweetening foods
- Industrial processes
- Sugar cane
- Food store
- 1
- Saltpeter
- (Niter)
- (Potassium nitrate)
- Pyrotechnics
- Explosives
- Matches
- Medicine
- Natural deposits
- Drug store
- 1 Epsom salts
- Medicine
- Mineral water
- Industrial processes
- Natural deposits
- Kieserite
- Drug store
- Food store
- 2 Washing soda
- (Sal soda)
- Washing cleaner
- Medicine
- Photography
- Food store
- Drug store
- Photo supply store
- 1-1/2 Baking Soda
- Baking
- Manufacture of:
- Beverages,
- Mineral waters
- and Medicines
- Food store
- Drug store
- 1-1/2 Aspirin Medicine Drug store
- Food store
- Procedure
- Caution: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels. No
- smoking!
- 1. Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a dish and carefully
- removing the yolk with a spoon.
- Note: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white. If egg yolk gets into the egg
- white, discard the egg.
- 2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline.
- 3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally until gel forms (about 5 to 10
- minutes).
- Note: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot (65°C) water for
- about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature. (Do not heat the gelled fuel
- containing coffee.)
- 5.4.5 Gelled Flame Fuels — Latex Systems
- Any milky white plant fluid is a potential source of latex which can be used to gel gasoline.
- Materials Required
- Ingredient How Used Source
- Gasoline Motor fuel
- Solvent
- Gas station
- Motor vehicle
- Latex,
- commercial or natural
- Paints
- Adhesives
- Natural from tree or plant
- Rubber cement
- One of the following acids:
- Acetic acid
- (Vinegar)
- Salad dressing
- Developing film
- Food stores
- Fermented apple cider
- Photographic supply
- Sulfuric acid
- (Oil of vitriol)
- Storage batteries
- Material processing
- Motor vehicles
- Industrial plants
- Hydrochloric acid
- (Muriatic acid)
- Petroleum wells
- Pickling and metal cleaning
- Industrial processes
- Hardware store
- Industrial plants
- Note: If acids are not available, use acid salt (alum, sulfates and chlorides other than sodium or
- potassium). The formic acid from crushed red ants can also be used.
- Procedure
- Caution: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing flame fuels. No
- smoking!
- 1. With commercial rubber latex:
- Place 7 parts by volume of latex and 92 parts by volume of gasoline in bottle. Cap bottle and
- shake to mix well.
- a.
- b. Add 1 part by volume vinegar (or other acid) and shake until gel forms.
- Caution: Concentrated acids will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash away
- immediately with large quantities of water.
- 2. With natural latex:
- Natural latex should form lumps as it comes from the plant. If lumps do not form, add a small
- amount of acid to the latex.
- a.
- b. Strain off the latex lumps and allow to dry in air.
- Place 20 parts by volume of latex in bottle and add 80 parts by volume of gasoline. Cover
- bottle and allow to stand until a swollen gel mass is obtained (2 to 3 days).
- c.
- 5.4.6 Gelled Flame Fuels — Wax Systems
- Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere
- to target surfaces.
- Materials Required
- Parts by
- Volume Ingredient How Used Source
- 80 Gasoline Motor fuel
- Solvent
- Gas station
- Motor vehicles
- Any one of the following:
- 20
- Ozocerite
- Mineral wax
- Fossil wax
- Ceresin wax
- Leather polish
- Sealing wax
- Candles
- Crayons
- Waxed paper
- Textile sizing
- Natural deposits
- General stores
- Department store
- Beeswax
- Furniture and floor waxes
- Artificial fruit and flowers
- Lithographing
- Wax paper
- Textile finish
- Candles
- Honeycomb of bee
- General store
- Department store
- Bayberry wax
- Myrtle wax
- Candles
- Soaps
- Leather polish
- Medicine
- Natural form
- Myrica berries
- General store
- Department store
- Drug store
- Procedure
- 1. Obtaining wax from natural sources: Plants and berries are potential sources of natural waxes.
- Place the plants and/or berries in boiling water. The natural waxes will melt. Let the water cool. The
- natural waxes will form a solid layer on the water surface. Skim off the solid wax and let it dry. With
- natural waxes which have suspended matter when melted, screen the wax through a cloth.
- 2. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed in a hot water bath.
- 3. Add gasoline to the bottle.
- 4. When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath to cool slowly to room
- temperature.
- Note: If a gel does not form, add additional wax (up to 40% by volume) and repeat the above steps.
- If no gel forms with 40% wax, make a lye solution by dissolving a small amount of lye (sodium
- hydroxide) in an equal amount of water. Add this solution (1/2% forms by volume) to the gasoline
- wax mix and shake bottle until a gel forms.
- 5.4.7 Gelled Flame Fuels — Animal Blood Systems
- Animal blood can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
- Materials Required
- Parts by
- Volume Ingredient How Used Source
- 68 Gasoline Motor fuel
- Solvent
- Gas station
- Motor vehicles
- 30 Animal blood serum Food
- Medicine
- Slaughter House
- Natural habitat
- Any one of the following:
- 2
- Salt Food
- Industrial processes
- Sea Water
- Natural brine
- Food store
- Ground Coffee
- Food
- Caffeine source
- Beverage
- Coffee plant
- Food store
- Dried tea leaves Food
- Beverage
- Tea plant
- Food store
- Sugar Sweetening foods
- Industrial processes
- Sugar cane
- Food store
- Lime
- Mortar
- Plaster
- Medicine
- Ceramics
- Steel making
- Industrial processes
- From calcium carbonate
- Hardware store
- Drug store
- Garden supply store
- Baking soda
- Baking
- Beverages
- Medicine
- Industrial processes
- Food store
- Drug store
- Epsom salts
- Medicine
- Mineral water
- Industrial processes
- Drug store
- Natural deposits
- Food store
- Procedure
- 1. Preparation of animal blood serum:
- a. Slit animal's throat by jugular vein. Hang upside down to drain.
- Place coagulated (lumpy) blood in a cloth or on a screen and catch the red fluid (serum)
- which drains through.
- b.
- c. Store in cool place if possible.
- Caution: Do not get aged animal blood or the serum into an open cut. This can cause infections.
- 2. Pour blood serum into jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline.
- 3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir until a gel forms.
- 5.5 Acid Delay Incendiary
- This device will ignite automatically after a given time delay.
- Materials Required
- Small jar with cap
- Cardboard
- Adhesive tape
- Potassium chlorate
- Sugar
- Sulfuric acid (battery acid)
- Rubber sheeting (automotive inner tube)
- Procedure
- 1. Sulfuric acid must be concentrated. If battery acid or other dilute acid is used, concentrate it by
- boiling. Container used should be of enamelware or oven glass. When dense white fumes begin to
- appear, immediately remove the acid from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
- Caution: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with
- a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.
- 2. Dissolve one part by volume of potassium chlorate and one part by volume of sugar in two parts
- by volume of boiling water.
- 3. Allow the solution to cool. When crystals settle, pour off and discard the liquid.
- 4. Form a tube from cardboard just large enough to
- fit around the outside of the jar and 2 to 3 times the
- height of the jar. Tape one end of the tube closed.
- 5. Pour wet potassium
- chlorate-sugar crystals
- into the tube until it is
- about 2/3 full. Stand the
- tube aside to dry.
- 6. Drill a hole through the cap of the jar about 1/2
- inch (1-1/4 cm) in diameter.
- 7. Cut a disc from rubber sheet so that it just
- fits snugly inside the lid of the jar.
- 8. Partly fill jar with water, cover with rubber disc and cap tightly with the drilled lid. Invert bottle
- and allow to stand for a few minutes to make sure that there are no leaks. This is extremely
- important.
- 9. Pour water from jar and fill about 1/3 full with
- concentrated sulfuric acid. Replace the rubber disc and cap
- tightly.
- Important: Wash outside of jar thoroughly with clear water. If this is not done, the jar may be
- dangerous to handle during use.
- How to Use
- 1. Place the tube containing the sugar chlorate crystals on an incendiary or flammable material taped
- end down.
- 2. Turn the jar of sulfuric acid cap end down and slide it into the open end of the tube.
- After a time delay, the acid will eat through the rubber disc and ignite the sugar chlorate mix. The
- delay time depends upon the thickness and type of rubber used for the disc. Before using this device,
- tests should be conducted to determine the delay time that can be expected.
- Note: A piece of standard automobile inner tube (about 1/32 inch thick) will provide a delay time of
- approximately 45 minutes.
- 5.6 Improvised White Flare
- An improvised white flare can be made from potassium nitrate, aluminum powder and shellac. It has
- a time duration of approximately 2 minutes.
- Materials Required Source
- Potassium nitrate
- Field grade (section 1.2)
- Drug Store
- Aluminum powder (bronzing) Hardware or paint store
- Shellac Hardware or paint store
- Quart jar with lid
- Fuse, 15 inches long
- Wooden rod, 1/4 inch diameter
- Tin can, 2-1/2 inch diameter x 5 inches long
- Flat window screen
- Wooden block
- Note: All of the above dimensions are approximate.
- Procedure
- 1. Place the potassium nitrate crystals on
- the screen. Rub the material back and
- forth against the screen mesh with the
- wooden block until the nitrate is
- granulated into a powder.
- 2. Measure 21 tablespoons of the powdered
- nitrate into a quart jar. Add 21 tablespoons of
- the aluminum powder to the nitrate.
- 3. Place lid on the jar and shake ingredients vigorously until
- well mixed.
- 4. Add 12 tablespoons of shellac to the mixture and stir with
- the wooden rod. Store mixture until ready for step 7.
- 5. Knot one end of the fuse.
- 6. Wrap the knotted end of the fuse once around the inside
- bottom of the can with the knot at the center. Then, run the
- rest of the fuse out the center top of the can.
- 7. Pour the mixture in the can and around the fuse.
- 8. Store flare mixture away from heat and flame until ready for use, but no longer than 3 weeks.
- 5.7 Improvised Iron Oxide
- Iron oxide can be made from steel wool. It is used in the preparation of Improvised Yellow Flare
- (section 5.8), Improvised White Smoke Munition (section 5.9) and Improvised Black Smoke
- Munition (section 5.10).
- Materials Required Source
- Steel wool (without soap), approximately 16 large
- pads Hardware or general store
- Smoke pipe, approximately 4 feet long x 12 inches in
- diameter, 1/16 inch thick Hardware store
- Vacuum cleaner Hardware store
- Electrical source (110 V, A.C.) Modern commercial and domestic buildings
- Window screen
- Newspaper
- 2 containers
- Wooden blocks, if necessary
- Flame source (matches, lighter, etc.)
- Procedure
- 1. Separate a handful of steel wool into a fluffy
- ball approximately 12 inches in diameter and
- place into one end of the smoke pipe.
- 2. Place the pipe on a level, nonflammable surface. Steady the pipe, using wooden blocks if
- necessary.
- 3. Ignite the steel wool with the flame source and, with the vacuum cleaner, force a stream of air
- through the flame.
- Note: The forced air provided by the vacuum cleaner aids in the burning of the steel wool. If the
- steel wool does not completely burn, more separation of the wool is needed.
- 4. When the steel wool has almost completely burned, add another handful of the fluffed steel wool
- (step 1).
- 5. Continue adding to the flame a single handful of fluffed wool at a time until a sufficient amount of
- iron oxide granules have accumulated in the stove pipe.
- 6. Place a window screen on a sheet of newspaper. Pour the burned steel wool granules onto the
- window screen and shake screen until all the fine particles have passed through.
- 7. Discard those particles on the newspaper which are fibrous and unburned.
- 8. Save the particles which were too large to pass through the screen in one of the containers for
- future burning.
- 9. Store particles of iron oxide (left on newspaper) in another container until ready for use.
- 5.8 Improvised Yellow Flare
- A yellow flare can be made from shellac, sulfur, aluminum powder, iron oxide and baking soda. It
- can be used either for signaling or lighting up a dark area.
- Materials Required Source
- Shellac Hardware or paint store
- Sulfur Drug or agricultural supply store
- Aluminum powder (bronzing) Hardware or paint store
- Black iron oxide Section 5.7
- Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) Food store
- Improvised white flare mix Section 5.6
- Window Screen
- Wooden rod or stick
- Tablespoon
- Quart jar with lid
- Newspaper
- Wooden block
- Fuse, 15 inches long
- Tin can, 2-1/2 inches diameter x 5 inches long
- Aluminum foil
- Flame source (matches, lighter, etc.)
- Procedure
- 1. Measure 6 firm level tablespoons of sulfur
- into a quart jar.
- 2. Add 7 firm level tablespoons of sodium bicarbonate to the sulfur.
- 3. Add 2 heaping tablespoons of black iron oxide.
- 4. Place the lid on the quart jar and shake ingredients 10 times.
- 5. Place the mixed ingredients on
- the window screen.
- 6. Mix ingredients
- thoroughly by forcing
- material through screen
- mesh onto the newspaper,
- using a wooden rod or stick.
- Repeat screening 2 times to
- insure thorough mixing.
- 7. Pour mixed ingredients back into the jar.
- 8. Add 20 heaping tablespoons of aluminum
- powder to the ingredients.
- 9. Add while stirring the least amount of shellac
- needed to moisten mixture.
- 10. Force moistened mix through screen mesh onto the newspaper as in step 6. Store mixture until
- ready for step 14.
- 11. Measure one heaping teaspoon of white flare mix onto a 4 inch square piece of aluminum foil.
- 12. Knot one end of the fuse and place the knot
- onto the mix.
- 13. Fold the corners of the foil tightly around the fuse.
- 14. Now place the yellow flare mix into
- the can.
- 15. Place the fused white flare mix in the foil below the
- surface of the yellow flare mix in the can.
- 16. Light the fuse with the flame source when ready.
- 5.9 Improvised White Smoke Munition
- A white smoke munition can be made from sulfur, potassium nitrate, black powder, aluminum
- powder, iron oxide and carbon tetrachloride. It can be used either for signaling or screening.
- Materials Required Source
- Sulfur Drug or agricultural supply store
- Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) Drug store or section 1.2
- Improvised black powder Section 1.3
- Aluminum powder (bronzing) Hardware or paint store
- Black iron oxide Section 5.7
- Carbon tetrachloride Hardware or paint store
- Improvised white flare mix Section 5.6
- Tablespoon
- Wooden rod or stick
- Newspaper
- Quart Jar with lid
- Window screen
- Fuse, 15 inches long
- Tin can, 2-1/2 inches diameter x 5 inches long
- Flame source (matches, lighter, etc.)
- Procedure
- 1. Measure 3 level tablespoons of powdered dry
- sulfur into the quart jar.
- 2. Add 4 level tablespoons of powdered dry potassium nitrate to the sulfur.
- Note: it may be necessary to crush the potassium nitrate crystals and sulfur to obtain an accurate
- measure in tablespoon.
- 3. Add 2 heaping tablespoons of black iron oxide.
- 4. Place all ingredients on the
- window screen.
- 5. Mix ingredients thoroughly
- by sieving them onto the
- newspaper. Repeat screening 3
- times to insure thorough
- mixing.
- 6. Pour mixed ingredients back into the jar.
- 7. Screw lid onto the quart jar and shake vigorously
- until the ingredients are evenly mixed.
- 8. Remove lid from quart jar and add 15 heaping
- tablespoons of aluminum powder (bronzing) to the
- ingredients. Mix thoroughly with wooden rod or
- stick.
- Note: If the white smoke mixture is not for immediate use, screw the lid back onto the jar tightly and
- store until ready for use. If mixture is for immediate use, continue with the following steps.
- 9. Wet mix the ingredients to a paste consistency with
- carbon tetrachloride.
- Caution: Fumes of carbon tetrachloride are
- hazardous. Perform step 10 in a well ventilated area.
- 10. Add 1/2 cup of
- black powder to the
- ingredients and
- carefully mix with
- wooden rod or
- stick.
- How to Use
- 1. Measure one heaping teaspoon of white flare mix onto a 4 inch square piece of aluminum foil.
- 2. Knot one end of the fuse and place the knot
- into the mix.
- 3. Fold the corners of the foil tightly around the fuse.
- 4. Now place the white smoke mix into the
- can.
- 5. Place the fused white flare mix in the foil below the
- surface of the white smoke mix in the can.
- 6. Light the fuse with the flame source when ready.
- 5.10 Improvised Black Smoke Munition
- A black smoke munition can be made from sulfur, aluminum powder, iron oxide, moth crystals and
- carbon tetrachloride. It can be used either for signaling or screening.
- Materials Required Source
- Sulfur Drug store
- Aluminum powder (bronzing) Paint or hardware store
- Improvised black iron oxide Section 5.7
- Moth crystals (paradichlorobenzene) Hardware store
- Carbon tetrachloride Paint or hardware store
- Improvised white flare mix Section 5.6
- Table salt Food store
- Teaspoon
- Tablespoon
- Quart jar or container
- Wooden rod or stick
- Wooden block
- Window screen
- Newspaper
- Fuse, 15 inches long
- Tin can, 2-1/2 inch diameter x 5 inches long
- Aluminum foil
- Flame source (matches, lighter, etc.)
- Procedure
- 1. Measure 3 level teaspoons of sulfur into a quart jar.
- 2. Add 1 heaping tablespoon of improvised iron oxide to the sulfur.
- 3. Add 2 level teaspoons of table salt.
- 4. Crush 5 heaping tablespoons of moth crystal
- into a fine powder using a wooden block.
- 5. Add 4 heaping tablespoons of powdered moth crystals to the other ingredients in jar.
- 6. Place all ingredients on the
- window screen.
- 7. Mix ingredients
- thoroughly by
- sieving them onto the
- newspaper. Repeat
- screening 3 times to
- insure thorough
- mixing.
- 8. Pour mixed ingredients back
- into the jar.
- 9. Add 12 heaping tablespoons of aluminum powder
- to the ingredients and mix by stirring with wooden
- rod or stick.
- 10. Just before use as a black smoke, wet mix the
- above ingredients to a paste consistency with
- carbon tetrachloride.
- Caution: Fumes of carbon tetrachloride are hazardous. Perform step 10 in a well ventilated
- area.
- How to Use
- 1. Measure one heaping teaspoon of white flare mix onto a 4 inch square piece of aluminum foil.
- 2. Knot one end of the fuse and place the knot into
- the mix.
- 3. Fold the corners of the foil tightly around the fuse.
- 4. Now place the black smoke mix into the
- can.
- 5. Place the fused white flare mix in the foil below the
- surface of the black smoke mix in the can.
- 6. Light the fuse with the flame source when ready.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 6
- Fuses, Detonators & Delay Mechanisms
- 6.1 Electric Bulb Initiator
- Mortars, mines and similar weapons often make use of electric initiators. An electric initiator can be made
- using a flash light or automobile electric light bulb.
- Materials Required
- Electric light bulb and mating socket
- Cardboard or heavy paper
- Black powder
- Adhesive tape
- Procedure
- Method I
- 1. Break the glass of the electric light bulb. Take care
- not to damage the filament. The initiator will not work
- if the filament is broken. Remove all glass above the
- base of the bulb.
- 2. Form a tube 3 to 4 inches long from cardboard or heavy
- paper to fit around the base of the bulb. Join the tube with
- adhesive tape.
- 3. Fit the tube to the bulb base and tape in place.
- Make sure that the tube does not cover that portion
- of the bulb base that fits into the socket.
- 4. If no socket is available for connecting the
- initiator to the firing circuit, solder the connecting
- wires to the bulb base.
- Caution: Do not use a hot soldering iron on the
- completed igniter since it may ignite the black
- powder.
- 5. Fill the tube with black powder and tape the
- open end of the tube closed.
- Method II
- If the glass bulb (electric light) is large enough to hold the black powder, it can be used as the container.
- Procedure
- 1. File a small hole in the top of the bulb.
- 2. Fill the bulb with black powder and tape the hole
- closed.
- 6.2 Fuse Igniter from Book Matches
- A simple, reliable fuse igniter can be made from paper book matches.
- Materials Required
- Paper book matches
- Adhesive or friction tape
- Fuse cord (improvised or commercial)
- Pin or small nail
- Procedure
- 1. Remove the staple(s) from match book and separate
- matches from cover.
- 2. Cut fuse cord so that inner core is exposed.
- 3. Tape exposed end of fuse cord in center of one
- row of matches.
- 4. Fold matches over fuse and tape.
- 5. Shape the cover into a tube with the striking surface on
- the inside and tape. Make sure the edges of the cover at
- the striking end are butted. Leave cover open at opposite
- end for insertion of the matches.
- 6. Push the taped matches with fuse cord into the tube until the
- bottom ends of the matches are exposed about 3/4 inch (2 cm).
- 7. Flatten and fold the open end of the tube so that it
- laps over about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm); tape in place.
- 8. Push pin or small nail through matches and fuse cord.
- Bend end of pin or nail.
- Method of Use
- To light the fuse cord, the igniter is held by both hands and pulled
- sharply or quickly.
- Caution: Store matches and completed fuse igniters in moistureproof containers such as plastic or
- rubber type bags until ready for use. Damp or wet paper book matches will not ignite. Fuse lengths
- should not exceed 12 inches (30 cm) for easy storage. These can be spliced to main fuses when
- needed.
- 6.3 Delay Igniter from Cigarette
- A simple and economical time delay can be made with a common cigarette.
- Materials Required
- Cigarette
- Paper match
- String (shoelace or similar cord)
- Fuse cord (improvised or commercial)
- Procedure
- 1. Cut end of fuse cord to expose inner core.
- 2. Light cigarette in normal fashion. Place a paper match so that the head is over exposed end of fuse cord
- and tie both to the side of the burning cigarette with string.
- 3. Position the burning cigarette with fuse so that it burns freely. A suggested method is to hang the delay
- on a twig.
- Note:
- Common dry cigarettes burn about 1 inch every 7 or 8 minutes in still air. If the fuse cord is placed 1 inch
- from the burning end of a cigarette a time delay of 7 or 8 minutes will result.
- Delay time will vary depending upon type of cigarette, wind, moisture, and other atmospheric conditions.
- To obtain accurate delay time, a test run should be made under “use” conditions.
- 6.4 Watch Delay Timer
- A time delay device for use with electrical firing circuits can be made by using a watch with a plastic
- crystal.
- Materials Required
- Watch with plastic crystal
- Small clean metal screw
- Battery
- Connecting wires
- Drill or nail
- Procedure
- 1. If watch has a sweep or large second hand, remove it. If delay time of more than one hour is required,
- also remove the minute hand. If hands are painted, carefully scrape paint from contact edge with knife.
- 2. Drill a hole through the crystal of the watch or
- pierce the crystal with a heated nail. The hole must
- be small enough that the screw can be tightly
- threaded into it.
- 3. Place the screw in the hole and turn down as far as
- possible without making contact with the face of the
- watch. If screw has a pointed tip, it may be necessary to
- grind the tip flat.
- If no screw is available, pass bent stiff wire through the hole and tape to the crystal.
- Important: Check to make sure hand of watch cannot pass screw or wire without contacting it.
- How to Use
- 1. Set the watch so that a hand will reach the screw or wire at the time you want the firing circuit
- completed.
- 2. Wind the watch.
- 3. Attach a wire from the case of the watch to one terminal of the battery.
- 4. Attach one wire from an electric initiator (blasting cap, squib, or alarm device) to the screw or wire on
- the face of the watch.
- 5. After thorough inspection is made to assure that the screw or the wire connected to it is not touching the
- face or case of the watch, attach the other wire from the initiator to the second terminal of the battery.
- Caution: Follow step 5 carefully to prevent premature initiation.
- 6.5 No-Flash Fuse Igniter
- A simple no-flash fuse igniter can be made from common pipe fittings.
- Materials Required
- 1/4 inch (6 mm) pipe cap
- Solid 1/4 inch (6 mm) pipe plug
- Flat head nail about 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm) in diameter
- Hand drill
- Common “strike-anywhere” matches
- Adhesive tape
- Procedure
- 1. Screw the pipe plug tightly into the pipe cap.
- 2. Drill hole completely through the center of the plug and cap large
- enough that the nail fits loosely.
- 3. Enlarge the hole in the plug except for the last 1/8
- inch (3 mm) so that the fuse cord will just fit.
- 4. Remove the plug from the cap and push the flat head nail
- through the hole in the cap from the inside.
- 5. Cut the striking tips from approximately 10 “strike-anywhere” matches. Place match tips inside pipe
- cap and screw plug in finger tight.
- How to Use
- 1. Slide the fuse cord into the hole in the
- pipe plug.
- 2. Tape igniter to fuse cord.
- 3. Tap point of nail on a hard surface to ignite the fuse.
- 6.6 Dried Seed Timer
- A time delay device for electrical firing circuits can be made using the principle of expansion of dried
- seeds.
- Materials Required
- Dried peas, beans or other dehydrated seeds
- Wide mouth glass jar with nonmetal cap
- Two screws or bolts
- Thin metal plate
- Hand drill
- Screwdriver
- Procedure
- 1. Determine the rate of rise of the dried seeds selected. This is necessary to determine delay time of the
- timer.
- a. Place a sample of the dried seeds in the jar and cover with water.
- Measure the time it takes for the seeds to rise a given height. Most dried seeds increase 50% in one
- to two hours.
- b.
- 2. Cut a disc from thin metal plate. Disc should fit
- loosely inside the jar.
- Note: If metal is painted, rusty or otherwise
- coated, it must be scraped or sanded to obtain a
- clean metal surface.
- 3. Drill two holes in the cap of the jar about 2 inches
- apart. Diameter of holes should be such that screws or
- bolts will thread tightly into them. If the jar has a metal
- cap or no cap, a piece of wood or plastic (not metal)
- can be used as a cover.
- 4. Turn the two screws or bolts through the holes
- in the cap. Bolts should extend about one inch
- (2-1/2 cm) into the jar.
- Important: Both bolts must extend the
- same distance below the container cover.
- 5. Pour dried seeds into the container. The level will depend upon the previously measured rise time and
- the desired delay.
- 6. Place the metal disc in the jar on top of the
- seeds.
- How to Use
- 1. Add just enough water to completely cover the seeds and place the cap on the jar.
- 2. Attach connecting wires from the firing circuit
- to the two screws on the cap.
- Expansion of the seeds will raise the metal disc until it contacts the screws and closes the circuit.
- 6.7 Fuse Cords
- These fuse cords are used for igniting propellants and incendiaries or, with a nonelectric blasting cap, to
- detonate explosives.
- 6.7.1 Fuse Cords — Fast Burning Fuse
- The burning rate of this fuse is approximately 40 inches (100 cm) per minute.
- Materials Required
- Soft cotton string
- Fine black powder or
- Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) 25 parts
- Charcoal 3 parts
- Sulfur 2 parts
- Piece of round stick
- Two pans or dishes
- Procedure
- 1. Moisten fine black powder to form a paste or prepare a substitute as follows:
- a. Dissolve potassium nitrate in an equal amount of water.
- Pulverize charcoal by spreading thinly on a hard surface and rolling the round stick over it to crush
- to a fine powder.
- b.
- c. Pulverize sulfur in the same manner.
- d. Dry mix sulfur and charcoal.
- e. Add potassium nitrate solution to the dry mix to obtain a thoroughly wet paste.
- 2. Twist or braid three strands of cotton string
- together.
- 3. Rub paste mixture into twisted string with
- fingers and allow to dry.
- 4. Check actual burning rate of fuse by measuring the time it takes for a known length to burn. This is
- used to determine the length needed for a desired delay time. If 5 inches (12-1/2 cm) burns for 6 seconds,
- 50 inches (125 cm) of fuse cord will be needed to obtain a one minute (60 second) delay time.
- 6.7.2 Fuse Cords — Slow Burning Fuse
- The burning rate of this fuse in approximately 2 inches (5 cm) per minute.
- Materials Required
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
- Granulated sugar
- Procedure
- 1. Wash cotton string or shoelaces in hot soapy water; rinse in fresh water.
- 2. Dissolve 1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate and 1 part granulated sugar in 2 parts hot water.
- 3. Soak string or shoelaces in solution.
- 4. Twist or braid three strands of string together and allow to dry.
- 5. Check actual burning rate of the fuse by measuring the time it takes for a known length to burn. This is
- used to determine the length needed for the desired delay time. If 2 inches (5 cm) burns for 1 minute, 10
- inches (25 cm) will be needed to obtain a 5 minute delay.
- Note: The last few inches of this cord (the end inserted in the material to be ignited) should be coated with
- the fast burning black powder paste if possible. This must be done when the fuse is used to ignite a
- blasting cap.
- Remember: The burning rate of either of these fuses can vary greatly. Do not use for ignition until
- you have checked their burning rate.
- 6.8 Clothespin Time Delay Switch
- A 3 to 5 minute time delay switch can be made from the clothespin switch (section 7.1) and a cigarette.
- The system can be used for initiation of explosive charges, mines, and booby traps.
- Materials Required
- Spring type clothespin
- Solid or stranded copper wire about 1/16 inch (2 mm) in diameter (field or bell wire is suitable)
- Fine string, about 6 inches in length
- Cigarette
- Knife
- Procedure
- 1. Strip about 4 inches (10 cm) of insulation from the ends of 2
- copper wires. Scrape copper wires with pocket knife until
- metal is shiny.
- 2. Wind one scraped wire tightly on one jaw of the clothespin,
- and the other wire on the other jaw so that the wires will be in
- contact with each other when the jaws are closed.
- 3. Measuring from tip of cigarette measure a length of cigarette that will
- correspond to the desired delay time. Make a hole in cigarette at this
- point, using wire or pin.
- Note: Delay time may be adjusted by varying the burning length of the cigarette. Burning rate in still air is
- approximately 7 minutes per inch (2.5 cm). Since this rate varies with environment and brand of cigarette,
- it should be tested in each case if accurate delay time is desired.
- 4. Thread string through hole in cigarette.
- 5. Tie string around rear of clothespin, 1/8 inch or less from
- end. The clothespin may be notched to hold the string in
- place.
- Note: The string must keep the rear end of the clothespin closed so that the jaws stay open and no contact
- is made between the wire.
- How to Use
- Suspend the entire system vertically with the cigarette tip
- down. Light tip of cigarette. Switch will close and initiation
- will occur when the cigarette burns up to and through the
- string.
- Note: Wires to the firing circuit must not be pulled taut when the switch is mounted. This could prevent
- the jaws from closing.
- 6.9 Time Delay Grenade
- This delay mechanism makes it possible to use an ordinary grenade as a time bomb.
- Materials Required
- Grenade
- Fuse cord
- Important: Fuse cord must be the type that burns completely. Slow burning improvised fuse cord
- (section 6.7) is suitable. Safety fuse is not satisfactory, since its outer covering does not burn.
- Procedure
- 1. Bend end of safety lever upward to form a hook. Make a
- single loop of fuse cord around the center of the grenade
- body and safety lever. Tie a knot of the nonslip variety at
- the safety lever.
- Note: The loop must be tight enough to hold the safety lever in position when the pin is removed.
- 2. Measuring from the knot along the free length of the fuse cord, measure off a length of fuse cord that
- will give the desired delay time. Cut off the excess fuse cord.
- How to Use
- 1. Place hand around grenade and safety lever so safety
- lever is held in place. Carefully remove pin.
- 2. Emplace grenade in desired location while holding grenade and safety lever.
- 3. Very carefully remove hand from grenade and safety lever, making sure that the fuse cord holds the
- safety lever in place.
- Caution: If loop and knot of fuse cord do not hold for any reason and the safety lever is released,
- the grenade will explode after the regular delay time.
- 4. Light free end of fuse cord.
- 6.10 Can-Liquid Time Delay
- A time delay device for electrical firing circuits can be made using a can and liquid.
- Materials Required
- Can
- Liquid (water, gasoline, etc.)
- Small block of wood or any material that will float on the liquid used
- Knife
- 2 pieces of solid wire, each piece 1 foot (30 cm) or longer
- Procedure
- 1. Make 2 small holes at opposite sides of the can very close to the top.
- 2. Remove insulation from a long piece of wire for a distance a
- little greater than the diameter of the can.
- 3. Secure the wire in place across the top of the can by threading
- it through the holes and twisting in place, leaving some slack.
- Make loop in center or wire. Be sure a long piece of wire
- extends from one end of the can.
- 4. Wrap a piece of insulated wire around the block of wood. Scrape insulation from a small section of this
- wire and bend as shown so that wire contacts loop before wood touches bottom of container. Thread this
- wire through the loop of bare wire.
- 5. Make a very small hole (pinhole) in the side of the container. Fill container with a quantity of liquid
- corresponding to the desired delay time. Since the rate at which liquid leaves the can depends upon
- weather conditions, liquid used, size of hole, amount of liquid in the container, etc., determine the delay
- time for each individual case. Delays from a few minutes to many hours are possible. Vary time by
- adjusting liquid level, type of liquid (water, oil) and hole size.
- How to Use
- 1. Fill can with liquid to the same level as during experimental run (step 5 above). Be sure that wooden
- block floats on liquid and that wire is free to move down as liquid leaves container.
- 2. Connect wires to firing circuit.
- Note: A long term delay can be obtained by placing a volatile liquid (gasoline, ether, etc.) in the can
- instead of water and relying on evaporation to lower the level. Be sure that the wood will float on the
- liquid used. Do not make pinhole in side of can!
- 6.11 Short Term Time Delay for Grenade
- A simple modification can produce delays of approximately 12 seconds for grenades when fired from
- Grenade Launchers (section 4.5).
- Materials Required
- Grenade
- Nail
- Knife
- May not be needed
- Pliers
- Safety fuse
- Note: Any safety or improvised fuse may be used. However, since different time delays will result,
- determine the burning rate of the fuse first.
- Procedure
- 1. Unscrew fuse mechanism from body of grenade
- and remove. Pliers may have to be used.
- 2. Carefully cut with knife or break off detonator at
- crimp and save for later use.
- Caution: If detonator is cut or broken below the crimp, detonation may occur and severe injuries
- could result.
- 3. Remove safety pin pull ring and lever, letting striker hit
- the primer. Place fuse mechanism aside until delay fuse
- powder mix in mechanism is completely burned.
- 4. Remove pin, spring, and striker.
- 5. Remove primer from fuse mechanism by pushing
- nail through bottom end of primer hole and tapping
- with hammer.
- 6. Insert safety fuse through top of primer hole. Enlarge
- hole if necessary. The fuse should go completely through
- the hole.
- 7. Insert fuse into detonator and tape it securely to
- modified fuse mechanism.
- Note: Be sure that fuse rests firmly against detonator at all times.
- 8. Screw modified fuse mechanism back into grenade. Grenade is now ready for use.
- Note: If time delay is used for Improvised Grenade
- Launchers (section 4.5):
- 1. Wrap tape around safety fuse.
- 2. Securely tape fuse to grenade.
- 3. Load grenade in launcher. Grenade will explode in
- approximately 12 seconds after safety fuse burns up to
- bottom of grenade.
- 6.12 Long Term Time Delay for Grenade
- A simple modification can produce delays of approximately 20 seconds for grenades when fired from
- Grenade Launchers (section 4.5).
- Materials Required
- Grenade
- Nail
- “Strike-anywhere” matches, 6 to 8
- Pliers (may not be needed)
- Knife or sharp cutting edge
- Piece of wood
- Safety fuse
- Note: Any safety or improvised fuse may be used. However, since different time delays will result,
- determine the burning rate of the fuse first.
- Procedure
- 1. Unscrew fuse mechanism from body of grenade
- and remove. Pliers may have to be used.
- 2. Insert nail completely through safety hole (hole over primer).
- 3. Carefully remove safety pin pull ring and lever, and
- allow striker to hit nail.
- Caution: If for any reason, striker should hit primer instead of nail, detonator will explode after
- (4–5 second) delay time.
- 4. Push pin out and remove spring and striker. Remove nail.
- 5. Carefully remove top section of fuse mechanism from bottom section by unscrewing. Pliers may have
- to be used.
- Caution: Use extreme care—sudden shock may set off detonator.
- 6. Fire primer by hitting nail placed against top of it. Remove fired primer (same as step 5 of section
- 6.11).
- Caution: Do not hold assembly in your hand during above operation, as serious burns may result.
- 7. Scrape delay fuse powder with a sharpened stick. Loosen about 1/4 inch (6 mm) of powder in cavity.
- 8. Cut off tips (not whole head) of 6 "strike-anywhere" matches with sharp cutting edge. Drop them into
- delay fuse hole.
- 9. Place safety fuse in delay fuse hole so that it is flush
- against the match tips.
- Important: Be sure fuse remains flush against
- the match tips at all times.
- 10. Thread fuse through primer hole. Enlarge hole if
- necessary. Screw modified fuse mechanism back
- together. Screw combination back into grenade.
- Grenade modification is now ready for use. Light fuse
- when ready to use.
- Note: If time delay is used for Improvised Grenade
- Launchers (section 4.5):
- 1. Wrap tape around safety fuse.
- 2. Securely tape fuse to grenade.
- 3. Load grenade in launcher. Grenade will explode in
- approximately 20 seconds after safety fuse burns up to
- bottom of grenade.
- 6.13 Detonator
- Detonators (blasting caps) can be made from a used small arms cartridge case and field manufactured
- explosives. Detonators are used to initiate secondary high explosives (C4, TNT, etc.).
- Materials Required Source
- Primary explosive See table
- Booster explosive
- RDX (section 1.15) or picric acid (section
- 1.21)
- Improvised scale Section 7.8
- Used cartridge case .22 caliber or larger
- Fuse, 12 inches long
- Round wooden stick (small enough just to fit in the neck of
- the cartridge case)
- Drill or knife
- Long nail with sharpened end
- Vise
- Improvised loading fixture
- Procedure
- 1. Remove fired primer from a used cartridge case using a sharpened nail. (See section 3.5.)
- 2. If necessary, open out flash hole in the primer pocket
- using a drill or knife. Make it large enough to receive
- fuse.
- 3. Place one end of fuse in the flash hole and extend it through the case until it becomes exposed at the
- open end. Knot this end and then pull fuse in cartridge case thus preventing fuse from falling out.
- 4. Load the primary explosive in the cartridge case, using the
- following table for the proper amount.
- Primary Explosive Primary Explosive
- Source Minimum Weight*
- Lead picrate** Section 1.20 3 grams
- (3 handbook pages)
- TACC (tetramminecopper chlorate) Section 1.16 1 gram
- (1 handbook page)
- DDNP (diazodinitrophenol) Section 1.19 0.5 gram
- (1/2 handbook page)
- Mercury fulminate Section 1.24
- 0.75 gram
- HMTD (3/4 handbook page) Section 1.17
- Double salts Section 1.22
- *See section 7.8 for details on improvised scale.
- **.22 caliber cartridge case cannot be used with lead picrate as there is not enough volume to contain the
- explosive train.
- 5. Compress the primary explosive into the cartridge
- case with the wooden stick and the following improvised
- loading fixture.
- Caution: The primary explosive is shock and flame sensitive.
- Note: Tamping is not needed when TACC is used.
- 6. Add one gram of booster explosive. The booster can be RDX (section 1.15), or picric acid (section
- 1.21).
- 7. Compress the booster explosive into the cartridge case with wooden stick and the loading fixture.
- 8. If the case is not full, fill the remainder with the secondary explosive to be detonated.
- Caution: Detonator has considerably more power than a military blasting cap and should be
- handled carefully.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Section 7
- Miscellaneous
- 7.1 Clothespin Switch
- A spring type clothespin is used to make a circuit closing switch to actuate explosive charges, mines,
- booby traps and alarm systems.
- Materials Required
- Spring type clothespin
- Solid copper wire, 1/16 inch (2 mm) in diameter
- Strong string on wire
- Flat piece of wood (roughly 1/8 inch x 1 inch x 2 inches)
- Knife
- Procedure
- 1. Strip four inches (10 cm) of insulation from the
- ends of 2 solid copper wires. Scrape copper wires with
- pocket knife until metal is shiny.
- 2. Wind one scraped wire tightly on one jaw of the
- clothespin, and the other wire on the other jaw.
- 3. Make a hole in one end of the flat piece of
- wood using a knife, heated nail or drill. Tie strong
- string or wire through the hole.
- 4. Place flat piece of wood between jaws of the
- clothespin switch.
- Basic Firing Circuit
- When the flat piece of wood is removed by pulling the string, the jaws of the clothespin will close
- completing the circuit.
- Caution: Do not attach the battery until the switch and trip wire have been emplaced and
- examined. Be sure the flat piece of wood is separating the jaws of the switch.
- A Method of Use
- 7.2 Mousetrap Switch
- A common mousetrap can be used to make a circuit closing switch for electrically initiated explosives,
- mines and booby traps.
- Materials Required
- Mousetrap
- Hacksaw or file
- Connecting wires
- Procedure
- 1. Remove the trip lever from the mousetrap using a
- hacksaw or file. Also remove the staple and holding
- wire.
- 2. Retract the striker of the mousetrap and
- attach the trip lever across the end of the wood
- base using the staple with which the holding
- wire was attached.
- Note: If the trip lever is not made of
- metal, a piece of metal of approximately
- the same size should be used.
- 3. Strip one inch (2-1/2 cm) of insulation from the ends of 2 connecting wires.
- 4. Wrap one wire tightly around the spring
- loaded striker of the mousetrap.
- 5. Wrap the second wire around
- some part of the trip lever or
- piece of metal.
- Note: If a soldering iron is available, solder both of the above wires in place.
- How to Use
- This switch can be used in a number of ways—one typical method is presented here.
- The switch is placed inside a box which also contains the explosive and batteries. The spring loaded
- striker is held back by the lid of the box and when the box is opened the circuit is closed.
- 7.3 Flexible Plate Switch
- This pressure sensitive switch is used for initiating emplaced mines and explosives.
- Materials Required
- Two flexible metal sheets:
- one approximately 10 inches (25 cm) square
- one approximately 10 inches x 8 inches (20 cm)
- Piece of wood 10 inches square by 1 inch thick
- Four soft wood blocks 1 inch x 1 inch x 1/4 inch
- Eight flat head nails, 1 inch long
- Connecting wires
- Adhesive tape
- Procedure
- 1. Nail 10 inch x 8 inch metal sheet to 10 inches
- square piece of wood so that 1 inch of wood
- shows on each side of metal. Leave one of the
- nails sticking up about 1/4 inch.
- 2. Strip insulation from the end of one
- connecting wire. Wrap this end around the nail
- and drive the nail all the way in.
- 3. Place the four wood blocks on the corners of the
- wood base.
- 4. Place the 10 inch square flexible metal sheet so
- that it rests on the blocks in line with the wood base.
- 5. Drive four nails through the metal sheet and the
- blocks to fasten to the wood base. A second
- connecting wire is attached to one of the nails as in
- step 2.
- 6. Wrap adhesive tape around the edges of
- the plate and wood base. This will assure
- that no dirt or other foreign matter will get
- between the plates and prevent the switch
- from operating.
- How to Use
- The switch is placed in a hole in the path of expected traffic and covered with a thin layer of dirt or other
- camouflaging material. The mine or other explosive device connected to the switch can be buried with
- the switch or emplaced elsewhere as desired.
- When a vehicle passes over the switch, the two metal plates make contact closing the firing circuit.
- 7.4 Metal Ball Switch
- This switch will close an electric circuit when it is tipped in any direction. It can be used alone for booby
- traps or in combination with another switch or timer as an anti-disturbance switch.
- Materials Required
- Metal Ball 1/2 inch (1-1/4 cm) diameter (see note)
- Solid copper wire 1/16 inch (1/4 cm) diameter
- Wood block 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) square by 1/4 inch thick
- Hand drill
- Connecting wires
- Soldering iron & solder
- Note: If other than a 1/2 inch diameter ball is used, other dimension must be changed so that the ball will
- rest in the center hole of the block without touching either of the wires.
- Procedure
- 1. Drill four 1/16 inch holes and one 1/8 inch hole
- through the wood block as shown.
- 2. Form two “U” shaped pieces from 1/16
- inch copper wire to the dimensions shown.
- 3. Wrap a connecting wire around one leg of each “U” at least
- 1/4 inch from the end and solder in place.
- 4. Place metal ball on block so that it rests in the
- center hole.
- 5. Insert the ends of the small “U” into two
- holes in the block. Insert large “U” into the
- remaining two holes.
- Caution: Make sure that the metal does
- not touch either “U” shaped wire when
- the switch is standing on its base. If the
- ball does touch, bend wires outward
- slightly.
- How to Use
- Mount switch vertically and connect in electrical firing circuit as with any other switch. When tipped in
- any direction it will close the circuit.
- Caution: Switch must be mounted vertically and not disturbed while completing connections.
- 7.5 Altimeter Switch
- This switch is designed for use with explosives placed on aircraft. It will close an electrical firing circuit
- when an altitude of approximately 5000 feet (1-1/2 km) is reached.
- Materials Required
- Jar or tin can
- Thin sheet of flexible plastic or waxed paper
- Thin metal sheet (cut from tin can)
- Adhesive tape
- Connecting wires
- Procedure
- 1. Place sheet of plastic or waxed paper over the top of the can or jar and tape tightly to sides of
- container.
- Note: Plastic sheet should not be stretched tight. A small depression should be left in the top.
- 2. Cut two contact strips from thin metal and bend to the shapes shown.
- 3. Strip insulation from the ends of two connecting wires.
- Attach one wire to each contact strip.
- Note: If a soldering iron in available solder wires in
- place.
- 4. Place contact strips over container so that the larger
- contact is above the smaller with a very small clearance
- between the two.
- 5. Securely tape contact strips to sides of
- container.
- How to Use
- 1. Connect the altimeter switch in an explosive circuit the same as any switch.
- 2. Place the explosive package on airplane. As the plane rises the air inside the container will expand.
- This forces the plastic sheet against the contacts closing the firing circuit.
- Note: The switch will not function in a pressurized cabin. It must be placed in some part of the
- plane which will not be pressurized.
- 7.6 Pull-Loop Switch
- This switch will initiate explosive charges, mines, and booby traps when the trip wire is pulled.
- Materials Required
- 2 lengths of insulated wire
- Knife
- Strong string or cord
- Fine thread that will break easily
- Procedure
- 1. Remove about 2 inches of insulation from one end of each
- length of wire. Scrape bare wire with knife until metal is shiny.
- 2. Make a loop out of each piece of bare wire.
- 3. Thread each wire through the loop of the other wire so the
- wires can slide along each other.
- Note: The loops should contact each other when the two wires are pulled taut.
- How to Use
- 1. Separate loops by about 2 inches. Tie piece of fine
- thread around wires near each loop. Thread should be
- taut enough to support loops and wire, yet fine enough
- that it will break under a very slight pull.
- 2. Fasten one wire to tree or stake and connect end to firing circuit.
- 3. Tie a piece of cord or string around the other piece of wire a few inches from the loop. Tie free end of
- cord around tree, bush, or stake. Connect the free end of the wire to the firing circuit. Initiation will occur
- when the tripcord is pulled.
- Caution: Be sure that the loops do not contact each other when the wires are connected to the
- firing circuit.
- Other uses: The switch minus the fine thread may be used to activate a booby trap by such means as
- attaching it between the lid and a rigid portion of a box, between a door and a door jamb, and in similar
- manners.
- 7.7 Knife Switch
- This device will close the firing circuit charges, mines, and booby traps when the trip wire is pulled or
- cut.
- Materials Required
- Knife or hack saw blade
- 6 nails
- Strong string or light rope
- Sturdy wooden board
- Wire
- Procedure
- 1. Place knife on board. Drive 2 nails into board on each side of knife handle so knife is held in place.
- 2. Drive one nail into board so that it touches blade of knife near the point.
- 3. Attach rope to knife. Place rope across path. Apply tension to rope, pulling knife blade away from nail
- slightly. Tie rope to tree, bush, or stake.
- 4. Drive another nail into board near the tip of the knife blade as shown below. Connect the two nails
- with a piece of conducting wire. Nail should be positioned so that it will contact the second nail when
- blade is pulled about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) to the side.
- Note: Check position of nails to knife blade. The nails should be placed so that the knife blade will
- contact either one when the rope is pulled or released.
- How to Use
- Attach one wire from firing circuit to one of the nails and the other to the knife blade. The circuit will be
- completed when the tripcord is pulled or released.
- 7.8 Improvised Scale
- This scale provides a means of weighing propellant and other items when conventional scales or balances
- are not available.
- Materials Required
- Pages from Improvised Munitions Handbook
- Straight sticks about 1 foot (30 cm) long and 1/4 inch (5 mm) in diameter
- Thread or fine string
- Procedure
- 1. Make a notch about 1/2 inch (1 cm) from each end of stick. Be sure that the two notches are the same
- distance from the end of the stick.
- 2. Find the exact center of the stick by folding in half a piece
- of thread the same length as the stick and placing it
- alongside the stick as a ruler. Make a small notch at the
- center of the stick.
- 3. Tie a piece of thread around the notch. Suspend stick
- from branch, another stick wedged between rocks, or by
- any other means. Be sure stick is balanced and free to
- move.
- Note: If stick is not balanced, shave or scrape a little off
- the heavy end until it does balance. Be sure the lengths of
- the arms are the same.
- 4. Make a container out of one piece of paper. This can be
- done by rolling the paper into a cylinder and folding up the
- bottom a few times.
- 5. Punch 2 holes at opposite sides of paper container. Suspend
- container from one side of stick.
- 6. Count out the number of handbook pages equal in
- weight to that of the quantity of material to be weighed.
- Each sheet of paper weighs about 1.3 grams (20 grains or
- 0.04 ounce). Suspend these sheets, plus one, to balance
- container on the other side of the scale.
- 7. Slowly add the material to be weighed to the container.
- When the stick is balanced, the desired amount of material
- is in the container.
- 8. If it is desired to weigh a quantity of material larger than that which would fit in the above container,
- make a container out of a larger paper or paper bag, and suspend from one side of the stick. Suspend
- handbook pages from the other side until the stick is balanced. Now place a number of sheets of
- handbook pages equal in weight to that of the desired amount of material to be weighed on one side, and
- fill the container with the material until the stick is balanced.
- 9. A similar method may be used to measure parts or percentage by weight. The weight units are
- unimportant. Suspend equal weight containers from each side of the stick. Bags, tin cans, etc. can be
- used. Place one material in one of the containers. Fill the other container with the other material until
- they balance. Empty and refill the number of times necessary to get the required parts by weight (e.g., 5
- to 1 parts by weight would require 5 fillings of one can for one filling of the other).
- 7.9 Rope Grenade Launching Technique
- A method of increasing the distance a grenade may be thrown. Safety fuse is used to increase the delay
- time.
- Materials Required
- Hand grenade (improvised pipe hand grenade, section 2.1, may be used)
- Safety fuse or fast burning improvised fuse (section 6.7)
- Light rope, cord, or string
- Procedure
- 1. Tie a 4 to 6 foot (a meter) length Rope of cord to
- the grenade. Be sure that the rope will not prevent
- the grenade handle from coming off.
- Note: If improvised grenade is used, tie cord around grenade near the end cap. Tape in place if necessary.
- 2. Tie a large knot in the other end of the cord for use as a handle.
- 3. Carefully remove safety pin from grenade, holding safety lever in place. Enlarge safety pin hole with
- point of knife, awl, or drill so that safety fuse will pass through hole.
- 4. Insert
- safety fuse in
- hole. Be sure
- that safety
- fuse is long
- enough to
- provide a 10
- second or
- more time
- delay.
- Slowly
- release
- safety lever
- to make sure
- fuse holds
- safety lever
- in place.
- Caution: If safety lever should be released for any reason, grenade will explode after regular delay
- time (4–5 seconds).
- Note: If diameter of safety fuse is too large to fit in hole (step 4), follow Procedure and How to Use of
- Time Delay Grenade, section 6.9, instead of steps 3 and 4 above.
- How to Use
- 1. Light fuse.
- 2. Whirl grenade overhead, holding knot at end of rope, until grenade picks up speed (3 or 4 turns).
- 3. Release when sighted on target.
- Caution: Be sure to release grenade within 10 seconds after fuse is lit.
- Note: It is helpful to practice first with a dummy grenade or a rock to improve accuracy. With practice,
- accurate launching up to 100 meters (300 feet) can be obtained.
- 7.10 Bicycle Generator Power Source
- A 6 volt, 3 watt bicycle generator will set off one or two blasting caps (connected in series) or an igniter.
- Materials Required
- Bicycle generator (6 volt, 3 watt)
- Copper wire
- Knife
- Procedure
- 1. Strip about 4 inches (10 cm) of coating from both ends
- of 2 copper wires. Scrape ends with knife until metal is
- shiny.
- 2. Connect the end of one wire to the generator terminal.
- 3. Attach the end of the second wire to generator case.
- This wire may be wrapped around a convenient
- projection, taped, or simply held against the case with
- the hand.
- How to Use
- 1. Connect free ends of wires to blasting cap or squib leads.
- Caution: If drive wheel is rotated, explosive may be set off.
- 2. Run the drive wheel firmly and rapidly across the palm of the hand to activate generator.
- 7.11 Automobile Generator Power Source
- An automobile generator can be used as a means of firing one blasting cap or igniter. (Improvised
- Igniter, section 5.2, may be used.)
- Materials Required
- Automobile generator (6, 12, or 28 volt) (an alternator will not work.)
- Copper wire
- Strong string or wire, about 5 feet (150 cm) long and 1/16 inch (1-1/2 mm) in diameter
- Knife
- Small light bulb requiring same voltage as generator (for example, bulb from same vehicle as
- generator)
- Procedure
- 1. Strip about 1 inch (2-1/2 cm) of coating from both ends of 3
- copper wires. Scrape ends with knife until metal is shiny.
- 2. Connect the A and F terminals with one piece of wire.
- 3. Connect a wire to the A terminal. Connect another to the G
- terminal.
- Note: The F and G or C terminals may not be labeled; in this case, connect wires as shown. The F
- terminal is usually smaller in size than the C or G terminal.
- 4. Wrap several turns of string or wire clockwise around the
- drive pulley.
- How to Use
- 1. Connect the free ends of the wires to the light bulb.
- 2. Place one foot on the generator to
- secure it in place. Give the string or wire
- a very hard pull to light the bulb.
- Note: If not successful at first, rewind string and try again several times. After repeating this operation
- and the bulb still does not light, follow step 4, How to Use.
- 3. If light bulb lights, follow steps 1 and 2 of above, How to Use, connecting free ends of wires to
- blasting cap or igniter instead of to light bulb.
- 4. If light bulb does not light after several pulls, switch leads connected
- to F and G terminals. Repeat above How to Use, steps 1 to 3.
- 7.12 Improvised Battery (Short Lasting)
- This battery is powerful but must be used within 15 minutes after fabrication. One cell of this battery will
- detonate one blasting cap or one igniter. Two cells, connected in series, will detonate two of these
- devices and so on. Larger cells have a longer life as well as greater power.
- Materials Required Source
- Water
- Sodium hydroxide (lye, solid or concentrated solution)
- Soap manufacturing
- Disinfectants
- Sewer cleaner
- Copper or brass plate about 4 inches (10 cm) square and 1/16 inch (2 mm)
- thick
- Aluminum plate or sheet, same size as copper plate
- Charcoal powder
- Container for mixing
- Knife
- One of the following:
- Potassium permanganate, solid Disinfectants
- Deodorants
- Calcium hypochlorite, solid
- Disinfectants
- Water treating chemicals
- Chlorine bleaches
- Manganese dioxide (pyrolucite) Dead dry cell batteries
- Note: Be sure sodium hydroxide solution is at least a 45% solution by weight. If not, boil off some of the
- water. If solid sodium hydroxide is available, dissolve some sodium hydroxide in about twice as much
- water (by volume).
- Procedure
- 1. Scrape coating off both ends of wires with knife until metal is
- shiny.
- 2. Mix thoroughly (do not grind) approximately equal volumes of powdered charcoal and one of the
- following: potassium permanganate, calcium hypochlorite, or manganese dioxide. Add water until a very
- thick paste is formed.
- Caution: Avoid getting any of the ingredient on the skin or in the eyes.
- 3. Spread a layer of this mixture about 1/8 inch (2
- mm) thick on the copper or brass plate. Be sure
- mixture is thick enough so that when mixture is
- sandwiched between two metal plates, the plates
- will not touch each other at any point.
- Note: If more power is required, prepare several plates as above.
- How to Use
- 1. Just prior to use (no more than 15 minutes), carefully
- pour a small quantity of sodium hydroxide solution over
- the mixture on each plate used.
- Caution: If solution gets on skin, wash off immediately with water.
- 2. Place an aluminum plate on top of the mixture on
- each copper plate. Press firmly. Remove any excess
- that oozes out between the plates.
- Caution: Be sure plates are not touching each other at any point.
- 3. If more than one cell is used, place
- the cells on top of each other so that
- unlike metal plates are touching.
- 4. When ready to fire, clean plates with knife where connections are to be made. Connect one wire to the
- outer aluminum plate. This may be done by holding the wires against the plates or by hooking them
- through holes punched through plates. If wires are hooked through plates, be sure they do not touch
- mixture between plates.
- 7.13 Improvised Battery (2 Hour Duration)
- This battery should be used within 2 hours and should be securely wrapped. Three cells will detonate one
- blasting cap or one igniter. Five cells, connected in series, will detonate two of these devices and so on.
- Larger cells have a longer life and will yield more power.
- If depolarizing materials such as potassium permanganate or manganese dioxide cannot be obtained, ten
- cells without depolarizer, arranged as described below, (step 4) will detonate one blasting cap.
- Materials Required Source
- Water
- Ammonium chloride (sal ammoniac)
- (solid or concentrated solution)
- Medicines
- Soldering fluxes
- Fertilizers
- Ice melting chemicals for roads
- Charcoal powder
- Copper or brass plate about 4 inches (10 cm) square and 1/16 inch (2
- mm) thick
- Aluminum plate same size as copper or brass plate
- Wax and paper (or waxed paper) Candles
- Wire, string or tape
- Container for mixing
- Knife
- One of the following:
- Potassium permanganate, solid Disinfectants
- Deodorants
- Manganese dioxide Dead dry batteries
- Note: If ammonium chloride solution is not concentrated (at least 45% by weight) boil off some of the
- water.
- Procedure
- 1. Mix thoroughly (do not grind) approximately equal volumes of powdered charcoal, ammonium
- chloride and one of the following: potassium permanganate or manganese dioxide. Add water until a
- very thick paste is formed. If ammonium chloride is in solution form, it may not be necessary to add
- water.
- 2. Spread a layer of this mixture, about 1/8 inch (3
- mm) thick on a clean copper or brass plate. The
- layer must be thick enough to prevent a second
- plate from touching the copper plate when it is
- pressed on top.
- 3. Press an aluminum plate very firmly upon the
- mixture on the copper plate. Remove completely any of
- the mixture that squeezes out between the plates. The
- plates must not touch.
- 4. If more than one cell is desired:
- Place one cell on top of the other
- so that unlike metal plates are
- touching.
- a.
- Wrap the combined cells in heavy
- waxed paper. The waxed paper can be
- made by rubbing candle wax over one
- side of a piece of paper. Secure the
- paper around the battery with string,
- wire or tape. Expose the top and
- bottom metal plates at one corner.
- b.
- How to Use
- 1. Scrape a few inches off each end of two wires with knife till metal is shiny.
- 2. Clean plates with knife until metal is shiny where connections are to be made.
- 3. Connect one wire from the explosive to a copper or brass plate and the other wire to an aluminum
- plate. The connection can be made by holding the wire against the plate. A permanent connection can be
- made by hooking the wire through holes in the exposed corners of the plates. The battery is now ready
- for use.
- Note: If battery begins to fail after a few firings, scrape the plates and wires where connections are made
- until metal is shiny.
- 7.14 Armor Materials
- The following table shows the amount of indigenous materials needed to stop ball type projectiles of the
- 5.56 mm, .30 caliber, and .50 caliber ammunition fired from their respective weapons at a distance of 10
- feet (3 m).
- Thickness of Materials
- Inches Centimeters
- Indigenous Material 5.56
- mm
- .30
- caliber
- .50
- caliber 5.56
- mm
- .30
- caliber
- .50
- caliber
- 7.62
- mm
- 12.70
- mm
- 7.62
- mm
- 12.70
- mm
- Mild steel (structural) 1/2 1/2 3/4 1-1/4 1-1/4 2
- Mild aluminum (structural) 1 1 2 2-1/2 2-1/2 5
- Pine wood (soft) 14 22 32 36 56 82
- Broken stones (cobble gravel) 3 4 11 8 11 28
- Dry sand 4 5 14 11 13 36
- Wet sand or earth 6 13 21 16 33 54
- Note: After many projectiles are fired into the armor, the armor will break down. More material must be
- added.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Appendix 1
- Primary High Explosives
- A1.1 Mercury Fulminate
- Description
- Mercury fulminate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing as white or gray crystals.
- It is extremely sensitive to initiation by heat, friction, spark or flame, and impact. It detonates
- when initiated by any of these means. It is pressed into containers, usually at 3000 pounds
- per square inch (20 mPa), for use in detonators and blasting caps. However, when
- compressed at greater and greater pressure (up to 30,000 pounds per square inch or 200
- mPa), it becomes “dead pressed.” In this condition, it can only be exploded by another initial
- detonating agent. Mercury fulminate gradually becomes inert when stored continuously
- above 100°F. A dark-colored product of deterioration gives evidence of this effect. Mercury
- fulminate is stored underwater except when there is danger of freezing. Then it is stored
- under a mixture of water and alcohol.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 59.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 98.
- A1.2 Lead Styphnate
- Description
- Lead styphnate is an initiating explosive, commonly appearing in the form of orange or
- brown crystals. It is easily ignited by heat and static discharge but cannot be used to initiate
- secondary high explosives reliably. Lead styphnate is used as an igniting charge for lead
- azide and as an ingredient in priming mixtures for small arms ammunition. In these
- applications, it is usually mixed with other materials first and then pressed into a metallic
- container (detonators and primers). Lead styphnate is stored under water except when there is
- danger of freezing. Then it is stored under a mixture of water and alcohol.
- Comments
- This item was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 59.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 107.
- A1.3 Lead Azide
- Description
- Lead azide is an initiating explosive and is produced as a white to buff crystalline substance.
- It is a more efficient detonating agent than mercury fulminate and it does not decompose on
- long continued storage at moderately elevated temperatures. It is sensitive to both flame and
- impact but requires a layer of lead styphnate priming mixture to produce reliable initiation
- when it is used in detonators that are initiated by a firing pin or electrical energy. It is
- generally loaded into aluminum detonator housings and must not be loaded into housing of
- copper or brass because extremely sensitive copper azide can be formed in the presence of
- moisture.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 60.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 103.
- A1.4 DDNP
- Description
- DDNP (diazodinitrophenol is a primary high explosive. It is extensively used in commercial
- blasting caps that are initiated by black powder safety fuse. It is superior to mercury
- fulminate in stability but is not as stable as lead azide. DDNP is desensitized by immersion in
- water.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 60.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 103.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Appendix 2
- Secondary High Explosives
- A2.1 TNT
- Description
- TNT (Trinitrotoluene) is produced from toluene, sulfuric acid, and nitric acid. It is a powerful
- high explosive. It is well suited for steel cutting, concrete breaching, general demolition, and
- for under water demolition. It is a stable explosive and is relatively insensitive to shock. It
- may be detonated with a blasting cap or by primacord. TNT is issued in 1-pound and
- 1/2-pound containers and 50-pounds to a wooden box.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective. TNT is toxic and its dust should not be inhaled or
- allowed to contact the skin.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 263.
- FM 5-25, Explosives and Demolitions, page 3.
- A2.2 Nitrostarch
- Description
- Nitrostarch is composed of starch nitrate, barium nitrate, and sodium nitrate. It is more
- sensitive to flame, friction, and impact than TNT but is less powerful. It is initiated by
- detonating cord. Nitrostarch is issued in 1-pound and 1-1/2-pound blocks. The 1-pound
- packages can be broken into 1/4-pound blocks. Fifty 1-pound packages and one hundred
- 1-1/2-pound packages are packed in boxes.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- Reference
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 263.
- A2.3 Tetryl
- Description
- Tetryl is a fine, yellow, crystalline material and exhibits a very high shattering power. It is
- commonly used as a booster in explosive trains. It is stable in storage. Tetryl is used in
- detonators. It is pressed into the bottom of the detonator housing and covered with a small
- priming charge of mercury fulminate or lead azide.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 52.
- TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1509.
- A2.4 RDX
- Description
- RDX (cyclonite) is a white crystalline solid that exhibits very high shattering power. It is
- commonly used as a booster in explosive trains or as a main bursting charge. It is stable in
- storage, and when combined with proper additives, may be cast or press loaded. It may be
- initiated by lead azide or mercury fulminate.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 52.
- TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1501.
- A2.5 Nitroglycerin
- Description
- Nitroglycerin is manufactured by treating glycerin with a nitrating mixture of nitric and
- sulfuric acid. It is a thick, clear to yellow-brownish liquid that is an extremely powerful and
- shock-sensitive high explosive. Nitroglycerin freezes at 56°F, in which state it is less
- sensitive to shock than in liquid form.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 123.
- TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1502.
- A2.6 Commercial Dynamite
- Description
- There are three principal types of commercial dynamite: straight dynamite, ammonia
- dynamite, and gelatin dynamite. Each type is further subdivided into a series of grades. All
- dynamites contain nitroglycerin in varying amounts and the strength or force of the explosive
- is related to the nitroglycerin content. Dynamites range in velocity of detonation from about
- 4000 to 23,000 feet per second and are sensitive to shock. The types and grades of dynamite
- are each used for specific purposes such as rock blasting or underground explosives.
- Dynamite is initiated by electric or nonelectric blasting caps. Although dynamites are
- furnished in a wide variety of packages, the most common unit is the 1/2 pound cartridge.
- Fifty pounds is the maximum weight per case.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 265.
- FM 5-25, Explosives and Demolitions, page 8.
- A2.7 Military Dynamite
- Description
- Military (construction) dynamite, unlike commercial dynamite, does not absorb or retain
- moisture, contains no nitroglycerin, and is much safer to store, handle, and transport. It
- comes in standard sticks 1-1/4 inches in diameter by 8 inches long, weighing approximately
- 1/2 pound. It detonates at a velocity of about 20,000 feet per second and is very satisfactory
- for military construction, quarrying, and demolition work. It may be detonated with an
- electric or nonelectric military blasting cap or detonating cord.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- FM 5-25, Explosives and Demolitions, page 7.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 204.
- A2.8 Amatol
- Description
- Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and
- TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common
- compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20% TNT to 40% ammonium nitrate
- and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting charge in artillery shell and bombs.
- Amatol absorbs moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass.
- Therefore it should not be housed in containers of such metals.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- FM 5-25, Explosives and Demolitions, page 7.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 182.
- A2.9 PETN
- Description
- PETN (pentaerythrite tetranitrate), the high explosive used in detonating cord, is one of the
- most powerful of military explosives, almost equal in force to nitroglycerin and RDX. When
- used in detonating cord, it has a detonation velocity of 21,000 feet per second and is
- relatively insensitive to friction and shock from handling and transportation.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- FM 5-25, Explosives and Demolitions, page 7.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 135.
- TM 31-201-1, Unconventional Warfare Devices and Techniques, para 1508.
- A2.10 Blasting Gelatin
- Description
- Blasting gelatin is a translucent material of an elastic, jellylike texture and is manufactured in
- a number of different colors. It is considered to be the most powerful industrial explosive. Its
- characteristics are similar to those of gelatin dynamite except that blasting gelatin is more
- water resistant.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 204.
- A2.11 Composition B
- Description
- Composition B is a high-explosive mixture with a relative effectiveness higher than that of
- TNT. It is also more sensitive than TNT. It is composed of RDX (59%), TNT (40%), and
- wax (1%). Because of its shattering power and high rate of detonation, Composition B is
- used as the main charge in certain models of bangalore torpedoes and shaped charges.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- References
- FM 5-25, Explosives and Demolitions, page 7.
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 57.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 193.
- A2.12 Composition C4
- Description
- Composition C4 is a white plastic high explosive more powerful than TNT. It consists of
- 91% RDX and 9% plastic binder. It remains plastic over a wide range of temperatures (-70°F
- to 170°F), and is about as sensitive as TNT. It is eroded less than other plastic explosives
- when immersed under water for long periods. Because of its high detonation velocity and its
- plasticity, C4 is well suited for cutting steel and timber and for breaching concrete.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- Reference
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 204.
- A2.13 Ammonium Nitrate
- Description
- Ammonium nitrate is a white crystalline substance that is extremely water absorbent and is
- therefore usually packed in a sealed metal container. It has a low velocity of detonation (3600
- feet per second or 1100 meters per second) and is used primarily as an additive in other
- explosive compounds. When it is used alone, it must be initiated by a powerful booster or
- primer. It is only 55% as powerful as TNT, hence larger quantities are required to produce
- similar results.
- Comments
- This material was tested. It is effective.
- Caution: Never use copper or brass containers because ammonium nitrate reacts with
- these metals.
- References
- TM 9-1900, Ammunition, General, page 264.
- TM 9-1910, Military Explosives, page 119.
- Improvised Munitions Handbook (Improvised Explosive Devices or IEDs)
- Colophon
- C.1 Version History
- C.1.1 Version 1.0 (1969)
- The only things known about the very first publication from 1969 are that it was printed in loose-leaf
- form and on lighter paper than the widely-available v2.0 reprint. These are known because the
- procedure for making an Improvised Scale shows a picture of loose hole-punched sheets and the text
- says, “Each sheet of paper [of the Improvised Munitions Handbook] weighs about 1.3 grams.”
- However, the reprint uses heavier paper that weighs about 4.5 grams a sheet.
- C.1.2 Version 2.0 (1970s or 1980s)
- A 6-by-9-inch (15-by-23-cm) trade paperback with a brownish-yellow cover, apparently a reprint of
- the original publication, is referred to here as v2.0. It has been available to the public for decades,
- particularly from alternative mail-order publishers and military surplus stores.
- C.1.3 Version 3.0 (2007 – Thanks-to-Feinstein's Electronic Edition)
- This electronic edition was created from the reprint described above. (“Thanks-to-Feinstein” is a
- satirical reference to Senator Dianne Feinstein who passed a perverse law that erodes free speech in
- the U.S.)
- Diagrams were scanned at 300-dpi grey scale and saved as JPEG format. Text was scanned and
- converted by optical character recognition, manually checked, and reformatted in HTML. The
- colophon (this section) was added. A PDF file was created from the HTML files.
- All corrections and changes made while converting the original paper document to electronic form
- are listed below. Nothing substantial was changed; this electronic edition adheres as closely as
- possible to v2.0.
- Corrections and formatting in v3.0
- Some words and phrases were corrected for spelling, consistency, or errors in metric
- conversion.
- 1.
- 2. Most abbreviations were expanded for clarity.
- Trivial changes such as removing or adding whitespace, capitalization changes, or deleting
- unnecessary periods at the end of words in a table are not itemized.
- 3.
- 4. Hyphenation at ends of line were removed.
- 5. Words in ALL CAPITALS were changed to boldface.
- 6. Underlined words were changed to italics.
- 7. Words that were both ALL CAPITALS AND UNDERLINED were changed to boldface.
- Page numbers were removed, but the HTML source code has comments that indicate the v2.0
- page numbers; look for “IMH v2.0 page number nnn” in the HTML source code of this
- 8.
- document. The PDF edition does not provide a way to view the HTML comments.
- Most mixed numbers (i.e., consisting of a whole number and a fraction) have a hyphen in
- v2.0 (e.g., 1-1/4 inch). For consistency, all mixed numbers are now shown with a hyphen;
- e.g., 1 1/4 inch became 1-1/4 inch.
- 9.
- The handbook used both table headings “Material Required” and “Materials Required”. All
- former were changed to the latter for consistency.
- 10.
- Likewise the handbook used both table headings “Common Source” and “Source”. All
- former were changed to the latter for consistency.
- 11.
- Section numbers were changed from Roman to Arabic numerals in keeping with current
- practice; e.g., Section V, No. 7 became Section 5.7
- 12.
- Although this document is titled the Improvised Munitions Handbook, improvised munitions
- are now better known as improvised explosive devices or IEDs. The current expression was
- added in parentheses alongside each occurrence of the title.
- 13.
- Words and phrases corrected in v3.0
- Page in IMH v2.0 Original word in IMH v2.0 Corrected word in IMH v3.0
- 005 manufacture explosives manufacture of explosives
- 006 of assure proper to assure proper
- 010 re-desolve redissolve
- 012 squeexe squeeze
- 014 tablespoonsful tablespoonfuls [2 occurrences]
- 014 tablespoonsful tablespoonful
- 017 Comp. C-4 Composition C4
- 017 Comp. B Composition B
- 028 mononitrobenezene mononitrobenzene
- 032 Anti-freeze Antifreeze
- 032 non-permanent nonpermanent
- 043 C-4 C4 [5 occurrences]
- 044 C-4 C4 [2 occurrences]
- 054 Place 1/4 teaspoon 3. Place 1/4 teaspoon
- 059 milliters milliliters
- 071 No. 8 commercial commercial #8 (a)
- 074 handtight hand tight
- 075 Non-Electric Military Nonelectric military
- 076 anti-personnel antipersonnel
- 077 non-sparking nonsparking
- 078 pre-heat preheat
- 081 non-metallic nonmetallic
- 083 NON-ELECTRICAL nonelectrical
- 084 Non-metal Nonmetal
- 085 Method 1 Method I
- 086 non-electrical nonelectrical
- 087 Non-metallic Nonmetallic
- 089 non-electrical nonelectrical
- 090 non-electrical nonelectrical
- 092 non-electric nonelectric
- 092 so so that so that
- 094 explosove explosive
- 098 re-inspect reinspect
- 102 re-inspect reinspect
- 103 hand-tight hand tight
- 105 re-fold refold
- 109 hand-tight hand tight
- 113 8-1/2 [inch] 26-1/2 [cm] 8-1/2 [inch] 21-1/2 [cm] (b)
- 113 6 [inch] 20 [cm] 6 [inch] 15 [cm] (b)
- 120 re-inspect reinspect
- 124 guage gauge
- 132 push-rod pushrod [2 occurrences]
- 134 push-rod pushrod
- 135 push-rod pushrod
- 151 sulphuric acid sulfuric acid (c) [3 occurrences]
- 152 sulphuric acid sulfuric acid (c)
- 152 250 cc 250 milliliters (d)
- 160 sulphuric acid sulfuric acid (c)
- 161 sulphuric acid sulfuric acid (c)
- 164 Egg Systems Egg White Systems
- 170 up-side down upside down
- 171 sulphuric acid sulfuric acid (c) [3 occurrences]
- 172 sulphuric acid sulfuric acid (c) [2 occurrences]
- 206 sulphur sulfur (c) [3 occurrences]
- 206 non-electric nonelectric
- 209 wiree wire
- 210 non-slip nonslip
- 217 procedure 5 step 5
- 220 C-4 C4
- 225 5 4 (e)
- 226 MATERIEL Materials
- 245 dry-cell dry cell
- 246 permangenate permanganate
- 252 Section 13 Appendix 1 (f)
- 252 execpt except
- 253 Section 14 Appendix 2 (f)
- 254 maufactured manufactured
- 255 nitroglycerine nitroglycerin (c) [2 occurrences]
- (a)For consistency with other occurrences of the same phrase.
- (b)This corrects an inaccurate conversion in v2.0 from U.S. weights and measures to the metric
- system.
- (c)Although both spellings are correct, the change was made for consistency with other occurrences
- of the same word.
- (d)For consistency with the rest of the handbook, the abbreviation cc was changed to milliliters.
- (e)The procedure was misnumbered in v2.0.
- (f)Sections 13 and 14 of the v2.0 reprint were renamed Appendix 1 and 2 in v3.0. (There were no
- sections 8 through 12 in v2.0.) Sections 13 and 14 of v2.0 had different typefaces and layouts from
- the rest of the book. These discrepancies suggest that sections 13 and 14 were copied from a
- different source and bound into v2.0.
- Abbreviations expanded in v3.0
- Original abbreviation in IMH v2.0 Expanded abbreviation in IMH v3.0
- " (double quote) inch or inches
- Cal. caliber
- KM km
- Nom. nominal
- approx. approximately
- conc. concentration
- fps feet per second
- ft. foot or feet
- gm gram or grams
- gms grams
- in. inch or inches
- lb. pound or pounds
- min. minute or minutes
- No. number
- oz. ounce
- psi pounds per square inch
- qt. quart
- sec. second or seconds
- sp. gr. specific gravity
- sq. square
- yds. yards
- C.2 Copyright Information
- This work is in the public domain. The original work was created by U.S. Federal Government
- employees in their official capacity. Therefore by United States Code, title 17, section 105, it is not
- subject to copyright.
- This electronic edition is anti-dedicated to U.S. Senator Dianne Feinstein who authored a federal law
- that makes it illegal in certain circumstances to publish documents just like this one. The military is
- essentially immune to this law, but civilians lose free speech, a concept that apparently means
- nothing to Feinstein. (Sherman Austin is an example of a person jailed under Feinstein's law.)
- Feinstein feigns disgust at the dissemination of information about explosives without acknowledging
- the U.S. military's prominent role in producing exactly the kind of information that she condemns.
- This handbook is indisputable proof of the military's involvement with improvised explosive
- devices; in fact, the Improvised Munitions Handbook has been the definitive reference on IEDs since
- the 1970's.
- What absurdity Feinstein has created. The military creates and uses technology that the public can
- not even discuss without fearing prosecution under Feinstein's draconian law.
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