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- Handling modifications guide
- Created: 5.12.2019
- Updated last: 5.1.2020
- Prologue
- This guide will give you rough guidelines on how to add certain types of modifications into the game. Please do follow these guidelines to ensure a steadily balanced vehicle system across the vehicle library.
- All these values are guidelines, and they should not be stuck to religiously as all handlings respond differently. Use common sense and make sure cars handle in a reasonable way and that they are not under or overpowered.
- REMEMBER: Everything is a trade-off when you upgrade a vehicle! When you make one thing better, other one gets worse!
- 1. Chassis
- Chassis modifications have two major things they do: improve the actual physical handling of the vehicle, and reduce tolerances or movement within the chassis and suspension. Here´s a swift breakdown of some modifications.
- Shocks, springs, coilovers
- There is four categories of shocks, springs, coilovers that we use in RPP to make the handlings. These categories are tied to their pricing point, and thus it´s easy to identify quality and cheap suspension components
- OEM (stock suspension)
- Refer to the vehicle handling guide
- Budget
- Very low priced and off-brand products (0-500 for shocks). These generally don´t ride well and only give out visual enhancements of lowering your car.
- ALWAYS set budget shocks to have a very low dampening rate! 0.04-0.07 will do the trick.
- Street & Track
- Brand products like BC Racing, Stance Suspension, KW, Driftworks etc. These usually provide a good mix of comfort & handling. They increase driveability and handling of the car, but they don´t match up with high end racing suspension.
- Suspension dampening shall be set to this margin: 0.08 - 0.11
- Suspension force shall be added by +0.13 to the existing value, but not higher than 0.9 suspension stiffness.
- Traction multiplier shall be raised by +0.13
- Racing/Rally/Offroad
- These are specificly made to offer high performance in a specific genre of driving. These products are EXPENSIVE. If someone uses a cheaper variant of a specificly made component, DO NOT make the handlings as good!
- Racing/track
- Suspension dampening shall be set to his margin: 0.07-0.09
- Suspension force shall be set to this margin: 0.85-0.95
- Centre of gravity can be lowered from the original value to margin of -0.05 to -0.25 depending on build level and supporting mods.
- Traction multiplier shall be raised by +0.25
- Traction balance shall be set to 0.5 or if the player RP´s changes, to his liking.
- Offroad
- Dampening shall be set high to absorb bumps
- Suspension height shall be set high.
- Suspension force anywhere between 0.6 to 0.75
- Centre of mass shall be raised up +0.03 to +0.1 depending on height change.
- Rally/rallycross
- This is a mix of track & offroad suspension.
- Suspension stiffness at 0.69 - 0.79
- Centre of mass shal be raised up +0.02 to +0.04
- Car MUST have very much body roll.
- Setup changes
- Changing solely the shocks (not coilovers) reduce or increase the damping of the vehicle. Usually higher quality shocks increase the damping by 0.04 to 0.06 units
- For advanced users, damping rates can be changed to find certain handling charasteristics. This same applies to spring rates. Here´s some general guidelines for that:
- Front end shocks
- Reduce bump & rebound rate on shocks -> Car becomes more oversteery and more weight is transfered to the front
- Increase bump & rebound rate on shocks -> Car becomes more undesrsteery as less weight is transfered to the front
- Rear end shocks
- VICE VERSA to front end shocks!
- Remember that LOWERING THE CAR STIFFENS the suspension!
- Rose joint swaps, suspension arms, steering, bracing, rollcages
- This is a quick overview of the most common suspension upgrades that you may encounter in the requests.
- Suspension arms & Rose links
- These usually just offer more stiffness and adjustability, and they come with rose joints that reduces slack in the suspension components, replacing the traditional ball joints.
- Added +0.02 suspension force
- Lowers centre of gravity by -0.02
- Increases traction multiplier by +0.03
- Reduces body roll in general
- Toe out adjustments
- This mean changing the toe setting to a more outwards state. Adds +3 steering lock.
- Steering rack spacers
- This raises the steering ability by 10 degrees, but no more than 45 degrees in total.
- Wisefab & Knuckle changes
- This enables the cars to have 55-60 degrees of steering lock.
- Chassis bracing
- Correctly done chassis bracing makes the car more stiffer and reduces body roll
- This should add weight! Remember to put additional weight in the P/W ratio calculator before you make the handling itself!
- Depending on how extensive the job is, this should add +0.02 to +0.04 suspension stiffness
- Depending on how extensive the job is, this should lower the centre of gravity by -0.02 to -0.03
- Rollcages
- Correctly done rollcage makes the car more stiffer and reduces body roll
- This should add weight! Remember to put additional weight in the P/W ratio calculator before you make the handling itself!
- Refer to the guidelines in the chassis bracing paragraph.
- Drag car specific suspension changes: Ladder bars, 4-links etc.
- In order for a drag car to gain it´s full potential, it requires a sophisticated rear-end setup to generate the required grip on launch. Ladder bars are an easy way to generate some grip, but a full 4-link setup is superior to it. There is no specific value settings for these, but keep in mind that these GREATLY affect the car´s rear end grip on drag cars. No car with stock suspension configuration can launch hard.
- 2. Rear end gears,transmission & diff
- Rear end gears
- A player can lower their car´s inertia by changing higher rear-end´s gearing. This means that they will gain a considerable acceleration gain, but they´ll loose out in the top speed. This works the other way around too, Higher top speeds can be achieved with lower gearing, but acceleration is greatly impacted.
- We can not accurately simulate real life gearing in a car, thus we´ve come up with a system that affects both the car´s top speed and acceleration
- Two values will be affected by this formula. Inertia and top speed.
- Formula: Inertia * 3.5 = Affection in top speed in km/h
- Example:
- I want my car to have 5 less inertia, and it has a top speed of 270kmh.
- 5*4 = 20kmh -> My car´s new top speed is 250kmh, but it reaches it quicker.
- This means that in order for me to REDUCE inertia, I will REDUCE the actual top speed by 18kmh. Not the top speed value, the actual IG top speed.
- Rule of thumb: Higher inertia requires higher top speed. Lower inertia requires lower top speed.
- As this can´t be set to any certain chart, you must just ask the player what feels the best for him.
- DO NOT GO under 20 inertia with normal car requests!
- DO NOT GO over 100 inertia with normal car requests!
- To get a general idea, 3.1 is a low gear ratio and 4.3 is a very high gear ratio. Please search the internet to find more info on this matter
- LSD´s & Welded diffs
- LSD´s on RWD cars usually help on putting the power down to the ground bit better, but the more locking the diff has, the harder the car is to corner.
- Traction multiplier shall be increased by +0.02 with an LSD install
- Traction bias can get an additional +0.05 to it with an LSD
- LSD´S on FWD cars usually help cornering a lot.
- Traction multiplier shall be increased by +0.02
- Car should corner better. Do the changes with traction bias.
- Welded diffs make mad slides.
- Transmissions
- Transmissions can take off some time of acceleration. I´ve listed two types of transmission upgrades:
- Sequential
- -2 on inertia
- Automatic / other drag transmission
- -5 on inertia
- 3. Power & Weight
- Power & weight shall only be affected via the P/W calculator script! When discussing a mod request, please discuss how the weight & power is affected. Remember that BIG ENGINES add weight and vice versa! Google can be used to determine a weight for a certain part.
- NOTE: When big power is added (over 400hp), lower the traction multiplier accordingly before proper suspension & tire setup is installed!
- 4. Tires
- Junker & cheap tires (NO TO DRIFT TIRES!!!)
- These can be used to lower grip levels.
- Traction multiplier 0.5-0.6
- Normal road car tires
- Stock value on the vehlib handling
- Improved road car tires
- Adds +0.03 traction multiplier
- Semi Slicks
- Adds +0.13 traction multiplier, but not higher than 0.9 in total
- Semi slicks are made for lattitudal grip. THEY DO NOT offer LAUNCH traction! Make sure the rear wheels have some spin, and the car is slightly more tail-happier after the modification!
- Semi slicks should NOT stick the car to the ground.
- Track racing slicks
- These offer LATTITUDAL grip, so they are good in corners!
- Adds +0.2 traction multiplier, but not higher than 1.0 in total
- Traction balance shall be set to 0.5 or higher to introduce some sliding to the rear end.
- THESE ARE FOR RACING VEHICLES ONLY. If someone puts slicks on a road car, set the traction multiplier to 0.5 and traction bias to 0.55. Racing slicks require a clean surface and a high temperature to work.
- Drag radials & slicks
- Any type of a drag tire should increase longitudinal grip and DECREASE cornering ability of the car. Drag tires are made to wrinkle and provide forwards traction.
- If a big drag slick is added to a car, the centre of mass shall be raised by +0.1 higher as drag slicks tend to make the car easier to topple over.
- There´s no set value for the traction multiplier, but here´s few rules of thumb:
- If the car does not have extensive rear suspension modifications done, and it´s trying to put down big power, leave some wheelspin in the rear tires.
- ZERO wheelspin launches shall only be made for cars that have proper rear-end suspension to put that power in the ground!
- Also, smaller drag slicks do slip! Only BIG drag tires are zero wheelspin!
- Set the traction bias to 0.25 to 0.3 to reduce the turning ability of the vehicle.
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