[img]http://imgur.com/FcQ1mdP[/img]
[b]Banner By Nondescript Van[/b]

Welcome to the new 2017 edition Keyboard Megathread! A lot has changed in the world of keyboards since the last OP in 2009 and it was just about time for a reboot. [b]If you’re looking for quick picks for your couch media setup or don’t want to bother with this mechanical keyboard business, skip right to section 7. If you’re looking for recommendations on entry level mechanical keyboards, go to section 8.[/b]

[b]Table of Contents

1. What Is A Mechanical Keyboard?
2. Why Should I Buy A Mechanical Keyboard?
3. Keyboard Jargon
4. PS/2 vs. USB
5. Switches
6. Keyboard Sizes
7. Should I Buy This Keyboard?
8. Non-Mechanical Quick Picks
9. Mechanical Quick Picks
10. Links And Resources[/b]


[b]1. What Is A Mechanical Keyboard?[/b]

Most keyboards on the market use something called “rubber dome over membrane" designs. When you press a keycap you squish a small rubber dome inside, and it presses two membrane sheets together to complete a circuit. They work, but they’re not great. For one thing, they feel a little bit like typing on pudding. For another they can harden or soften as they age, changing the amount of force needed to actuate the key or killing the key outright. Rubber dome keyboards don’t last that long compared to mechanical keyboards either. The average rubber dome is rated for two million keystrokes. Cherry switches are rated for fifty million.

[img]http://imgur.com/J95gXg7[/img]
[i]Pictured: A diagram of a Cherry MX Red actuating.[/i]

Mechanical keyboards typically (but not always) have you pressing down on a spring, and once you hit the key’s actuation point it completes a circuit with a small meat leaf attached to the switch itself. This makes them more reliable, responsive, and just outright better feeling.

[b]2. Why Should I Buy A Mechanical Keyboard?[/b]

The same reason you buy a good pair of shoes.

Yeah you can get by with something for twenty dollars from Wal-Mart, but it's just getting by. If you're reading this thread you're probably a programmer or IT person, or someone who just generally uses computers often. And computer use is at it's core, keyboard driven. Mechanical keyboards help you type faster, more accurately, and more comfortably which makes the whole cycle of using a computer easier and more satisfying. And honestly, it just [i]feels[/i] good. There's something about the way crunchy switches feel under your fingers, the click when a switch hits it's actuation point. It’s satisfying in a way a cheaper keyboard never can be. And there's so much customization, a keyboard can be as unassuming or bold as you like. You can buy a 70 dollar Magicforce 68 and get along just fine or construct monster that looks like a decker’s wet dream.  Just look at some of these awesome things:

[timg]http://imgur.com/w3jfYgj[/timg]
[b]By Weedle[/b]

[quote=”Weedle”]KBParadise V60 with Tai Hao Miami keycaps and custom cable from mechcables.com.[/quote]

[timg]http://imgur.com/7q9GTNC[/timg]
[b]By Wasabi The J[/b]

[timg]http://imgur.com/xQtUQxn[/timg]
[b]By Nondescript Van[/b]

[quote=”Nondescript Van”]well as for customizing, there is a lot you could do, such as buy a pcb in a groupbuy from korea, buy some hard to find (at the time) MX White switches from some dude in Germany, then never finish your own case [/quote]

If you post your own custom board, I may add it here! (with your permission)

[b]3. Keyboard Jargon[/b]

There’s a fuckload of buzzwords in this weird little hobby, and this is just some basic terminology so you know what we’re talking about.

[i]Switch[/i]: The bit you’re actually using to type.  When you press a keycap you’re actuating the switch under it.

[i]Linear Switch[/i]: Linear switches just go straight up and down. There’s no tactile feedback except bottoming out the switch.

[i]Tactile Switch[/i]: Tactile switches have a small “bump” around the actuation point, and release a soft clicking noise. The most popular sort of switch.

[i]Clicky Switch[/i]: When you think of mechanical keyboards, you’re probably thinking of something with a clicky switch. Like tactile switches there’s a “bump” but it feels a bit crunchier and instead of a softer clicking noise they release a loud, sharp click. Really lets you share the joy of mechanical keyboards or annoy the shit out of people because they’re noisy as hell.

[i]cN[/i]: Centinewton, the unit of force used to describe how hard you have to press a switch to actuate it. The lightest mechanical switches tend to be 30 to 40 cN, and the heaviest are around 90 cN. Rubber dome keyboards are usually around 60 cN. If a keyboard lists it’s actuation force in grams they’re roughly (within about 2%) equal to cN.

[timg]http://imgur.com/aANLe6F[/timg]
[i]Pictured: A Plank Ortholinear Keyboard. Most of us think they’re silly too.[/i]

[i]100/80/60/40%[/i]: Shorthand for a keyboards overall size. What this means is expanded on in [b]Section 6[/b].

[i]ABS[/i]: The most common type of plastic used to make keycaps. Most mechanical keyboards you buy will have Doubleshot ABS keycaps standard. ABS keycaps tend to lose their texture quickly, and become smooth and slimy feeling.

[i]PBT[/i]: The good shit when it comes to keycaps. If you want to improve your keyboard, buying PBT keycaps is an excellent first step. PBT keycaps last longer, muffle the sound of the keystroke a little bit, and don’t yellow with age like ABS. Doubleshot PBT is best, and dye sublimation techniques make the longest lasting legends on it. Hydro printing makes for flashy keys, but wears out quickly.

[timg]http://imgur.com/QieIcvw[/timg]
[i]Pictured: WASD O-Rings[/i]

[i]O-Rings[/i]: Mechanical keyboards are generally loud little fuckers, sometimes by design and sometimes just as a quirk of their engineering. And sometimes your roommates, co-workers, or spouses just can’t take it. O-Rings are one of the simplest solutions, a little piece of rubber placed on the keycaps stem to make the downstroke quieter. However, they make the keypress much “squishier” and the general consensus is it fucks up the whole typing experience. Not as popular these days because there are new solutions coming out like sound dampening clamps or specially designed quiet switches.

[i]Stem[/i]: Where switch and keycap meet. Generally the stem will match the switch type – Cherry and clones will have Cherry stems, and Topre switches will have Topre stems. Exceptions exist though, there is at least one model of Topre keyboard with Cherry stems, for example.

[i]Stabilizer[/i]: Longer keys, such as shift, enter, and the space bar will have stabilizers under them. With Cherry and Cherry clones they will usually be either Cherry style stabilizers, which are simply empty stems, or Costar stabilizers, which are a thin metal rod.

[i]Rollover[/i]: How many keys you can press at once and be sure the system is registering them all. 6 key rollover is common on cheaper boards, and most better boards have 20 or N-key rollover. You’ll know if this matters to you.

[b]4. PS/2 VS USB[/b]

In the past, this mattered a lot more. BIOS fuckery often required a PS/2 keyboard, and N-Key Rollover was mostly a PS/2 affair. Nowadays, most BIOS are fine with USB keyboards and N-Key Rollover is available on higher end USB keyboards.

[b]5. Switches[/b]

There are three major types of switches I’ll talk about in detail here, they’ll cover about 90% of the keyboards you see on the internet. Cherry, and Cherry clones, Matias and Alps clones, and Topre switches. No matter the switch, I strongly encourage you to try before you buy. There are switch testers for [url=https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG]Cherry[/url] and [url=https://www.novelkeys.xyz/shop/matias-switch-tester]Matias[/url]. Sorry there was only one Topre tester on the market, and seems to be out of production now. If you live in LA you can stop by [url=https://elitekeyboards.com/]Elitekeyboards[/url] to try out Topre switches, but that’s the best I can offer you.

[b]Cherry[/b]

Cherry and Cherry clone switches are easily at least half the market, or maybe even 2/3rds of it. They’re the standard all other switches are compared to. You can identify Cherry and Cherry clone switches by their plus-shaped stems. They’re divided into three major lines I’ll go over. The linear line, the tactile line, and the clicky line.

[i]Cherry Linear Switches[/i]

[img]http://imgur.com/J95gXg7[/img]

Examples: Cherry MX Red (45 cN), Cherry MX Black (60 cN)

The simplest mechanical switches. They just go straight up and down when you press, with no tactile feedback until you bottom out the switch. This makes them a little bit quieter as Cherry switches go, but noise level varies based on keyboard design. Linear mechanical switches are very easy to accidentally press, as the trigger force is low and there is no tactile feedback to stop the key’s actuation.  This is especially true of the Cherry MX Red, which only has an actuation force of 45 cN.

[i]Cherry Tactile Switches[/i]

[img]http://imgur.com/zakZSjR[/img]

Examples: Cherry MX Brown (45 cN), Cherry MX Clear (60 cN)

Tactile switches incorporate a small “bump” when you hit their actuation point and a soft click. They can be a bit louder than linear switches, but not very in most cases. (Once again, keyboard construction plays a big role) Tactile Cherry switches are the most popular type of mechanical switches, and you can find virtually any mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Browns or clones of them. Goons typically recommend the Cherry MX Clear, a somewhat heavier version of the Brown.

[i]Cherry Clicky Switches[/i]

[img]http://imgur.com/wfomcFI[/img]

Examples: Cherry MX Blue (50 cN), Cherry MX Green (80 cN)

Made to emulate the feel and sound of IBM’s buckling spring keyboards, Clicky switches have the bump of tactile switches (though somewhat crunchier, at least in my experience), but add separate piece of plastic that loudly strikes the bottom of the switch housing when it actuates. This gives them a very loud, sharp click. When you’re thinking of mechanical keyboards you’re probably thinking of someone on a Cherry MX Blue hitting a 100 WPM and making an unholy racket. As a small note, if you play twitch games you might want to avoid clicky switches. They take a little bit longer to recover from their last input than other Cherry switches. For the average user this probably doesn’t matter, but it’s worth noting.

There are more Cherry switches, a lot more, but they’re all based on these three archetypes.

[i]A Quick Word On Cherry Clones[/i]

Cherry clones are extremely common, especially on lower quality mechanical keyboards but they’re not all bad. If you want a very specific switch weight and feel there’s probably a Cherry clone set up just the way you like it.

Good: Gateron, KBTalking, Zealio

Meh: Greentech, Razer

[i]Nope[/i]: Otemu, Kalih

[b]Matias/Alps Clones[/b]

Matias are the largest producer of Alps clone switches. Alps switches were switches similar in design to Cherry switches produced by a Japanese company, Alps Electric. They were well regarded, and when they left the mechanical keyboard business clones sprang up quickly. Matias and Alps clone switches have rectangular stems with two nubs on each side. Outside that, Alps clones can vary wildly and I will only be describing the three switches produced by Matias for simplicity’s sake.

The Matias Linear has a red stem and is similar to the Cherry MX Red, as they have the same linear action and both require 35 cN of force to actuate. The only major difference is the Matias Linear is somewhat quieter. The Matias Quiet Click has a gray stem and is a quieter equivalent to the Cherry MX Clear, requiring the same actuation force of 60 cN but feeling more like a Cherry MX Blue. The Matias Click has a white stem and is similar to the Blue or Green switches of Cherry but the sound of the a keystroke is even louder.

[b]Topre[/b]

[img]http://imgur.com/PPYIltp[/img]

Topre switches rely on a unique mechanism somewhat similar to the design of rubber dome keyboards. Under each key is a rubber cup fitted over a small coiled conical spring. They have a very small bump towards the top of the keystroke and then smooth sailing. When the key bottoms it produces a distinctive, quiet [i]thock[/i] that, to me at least, sounds a bit like rain on a roof.  They come in 35g (about 35 cN), 45g (about 45 cN), and 55g (about 55 cN). Topre switches have round stems.

[b]Buckling Spring[/b]

A beloved older design, the IBM Buckling Spring switch is a bit of an odd duck. Most mechanical keyboards use springs that compress under pressure. Instead, a buckling spring bends outwardly, striking the side of it’s housing when it reaches it’s required actuation force. The heaviest switch you’re likely to ever encounter, at a whooping 90 cN.  And as a bonus, when someone tries to murder you for the racket these things make, you can use the keyboard as a bludgeon to murder them because they are built like fucking Gameboys. [url=https://www.pckeyboard.com/]Unicomp[/url] is the only company producing new buckling spring keyboards right now.

[b]6. Keyboard Sizes[/b]
[timg]http://i.imgur.com/TflORjT.jpg[/timg]
[i]Pictured from Top To Bottom, a 100% keyboard, 80% keyboard, 60% keyboard, and 40%. The monster on the bottom right is an Ergodox[/i]

The other major factor in picking out a mechanical keyboard is the size. There are a lot of little oddities in each category but mechanical keyboards generally fit into a few size classes: 100%, 80%, 60%, and 40%.

[b]100%[/b]

This generally refers to fullsize keyboards. The greatest variety of mechanical keyboards exist at this size, and you can generally find any set of features you like in this size class. They also tend to be the heaviest, least portable boards, as well as the priciest.

[b]80%[/b]

80% keyboards generally remove the numpad, drastically cutting down the frame’s size and weight. They’re great if you want to keep more desk space open to you and don’t use your numpad very often. You can almost always find the same features of a 100% in an 80%, and for a little less too. There are some 80% keyboards that have alternative configurations, such as removing the six key cluster and arrow cluster and retaining the numpad.

[b]60%[/b]

60% keyboards usually cut off the arrow cluster, six key cluster, and function row. Because they remove so many keys, almost all 60% keyboards have macros to access them through function keys, usually replacing one or both of the shortcut keys in the bottom row and firmware or external software for programming macros. You can generally find 60% keyboards with quality construction a little bit cheaper than 100% or 80% keyboards, and they’re highly portable.

[b]40%[/b]

The smallest category of mechanical keyboards in more than one way. 40% keyboards cut the number row and adopt shortened keys to obtain the smallest frame possible. There are basically two choices at the size, the Vortex CORE and the Planck Ortholinear Keyboard DIY kit (pictured earlier in the article). The CORE is the more traditional of the two. The Planck almost completely eschews larger keys, leaving only an option for a double or single key length spacebar. The concept behind the behind doing this is to make every key be equidistant from a finger, minimizing finger strain.

[b]7. Should I Buy This Keyboard?[/b]

This is general shopping advice for any mechanical keyboard, if you want quick picks you can keep scrolling. There’s a few big companies that consistently put out great boards you should start with these companies. if you don’t know quite what you want these are good companies to start with: Vortex, Varmillo, Code/WASD, MK, Matias, Topre, Leopold, and Ducky

What the frame is made of? Cheap plastic? Aluminum? High grade plastic? It’s a keyboard and you’re a fuckin goon, it’s gonna get messy. So check how difficult reviewers say it is to clean. The other major thing that’s often overlooked is the backplate. The backplate is the bit of the keyboard your switches are actually mounted on. The backplate material determines how much the keyboard moves under each keystroke, how much the keyboard flexes. Flex is the quiet killer of a quality typing experience, there’s no use paying for mechanical switches if the keyboard frame is going to bend under every keypress. Plastic is the worst, aluminum is middle of the road, and steel is best.

Also pay attention to the way the USB plug fits into the keyboard, some keyboards incorporate 90 degree turns for whatever reason and it will murder your cables if you move the keyboard too often. If you’re buying a 60% or 40% keyboard, check out the macro programming and it’s shortcuts before you buy and make sure you at least understand the basics. If it’s an RGB keyboard that relies on firmware over an external app, make sure you understand it.

[b]8. Non-Mechanical Quick Picks[/b]

You don’t want a mechanical keyboard? Just getting something to use on the couch for your media setup? That’s cool. This section is for you.

[url=https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-920-007119-Wireless-Keyboard-Connected/dp/B014EUQOGK/ref=lp_12879431_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492888225&sr=1-2]The Logitech K400[/url] has an integrated trackpad if you’re into those. Pretty reliable.  27 USD

[url=https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-K360-Wireless-Keyboard-Compact/dp/B007PJ4PN2/ref=lp_12879431_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492876944&sr=1-5]The Logitech K360[/url] is a little bit cheaper if you don’t particularly care for the trackpad. 20 USD

[url=https://www.amazon.com/HP-H6R56AA-ABA-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B00FARSAVY/ref=sr_1_46?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1492877090&sr=1-46]The HP K3500 [/url] will get you by if you want a 100% sized wireless keyboard. 30 USD, 15 with Prime.


[b]9. Mechanical Quick Picks[/b]

These are some good starter boards. I tried to pick something from each of the major size categories. If nothing stands out to you, you can always ask the thread for more advice. You should still use a [url=https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG]switch tester[/url] before you buy anything if you can.

[timg]http://i.imgur.com/2ofqhqw.jpg[/timg]
[url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=twister_B01AXR5XQU?_encoding=UTF8&th=1]The Magicforce 68[/url] 70 USD

The cheapest keyboard I’m going to recommend here. 70 USD from Amazon right now, and Massdrop will often run drops closer to 50. It has a decent aluminum frame, and pretty alright construction for something this cheap. You can find it with Cherry Blues, Reds, and Browns. Massdrops of it have a much wider variety of selectable switches, including Greens, Blacks, and Gateron clones. You can get them somewhat cheaper with Otemu switches at your own peril.

[timg]http://i.imgur.com/undefined.png[/timg]
[url=https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=286]The MK Disco[/url] 119 USD

MK is mechanicalkeyboards.com’s inhouse brand. They licensed Ducky, a superb Chinese manufacturer, as their OEM. The Disco uses KBTalking switches which have been getting strong reviews. Pretty much the cheapest decent quality RGB keyboard you’re going to find outside of Massdrop.

[timg]http://imgur.com/bRbwO1j[/timg]
[url=https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=368]The MK Fission[/url] 119 USD

“RGB” branding is something of a misnomer. There are lights in the frame that light up the sides in RGB, but the backlights for the keys are white. Another Ducky OEM board with a steel backplate and excellent construction. Comes in a dizzying variety of Cherry switches. An excellent full size board.

[timg]http://imgur.com/dSD4poR[/timg]
[url=http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-104-key-mechanical-keyboard.html]Code 104 Key with Cherry MX Clears[/url] 155 USD, more with options

One of the most commonly recommended keyboards in thread. The fullsize Code board with Cherry MX Clears is a damn fine way to start your keyboard collection. It’s currently out of stock, and I’ll update this entry when it’s back in stock.

[timg]http://imgur.com/YLM1W3l[/timg]
[url=https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=183&sortby=]The KBParadise V60[/url] 89-119 USD, depending on switches/LEDs

You want a 60% keyboard? Your options are a little more limited. The big players in that space are Leopold, Varmillo, KBParadise and Vortex. This is about the cheapest of them, though sometimes Massdrop runs Poker 2s for about the same price point with more customization options. Good build quality, but no backlighting unless you pay extra.

[b]10. Links And Resources[/b]

[url=https://deskthority.net/wiki/Main_Page]The Deskthority Wiki[/url] – A great source of information on various switches. If you see some screwball switch you can’t ID, it’s probably listed here.

[url=https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/]Mechanicalkeyboards.com[/url] – The biggest retailer for mechanical keyboards and their accessories in the USA. Has fast, free shipping on most keyboards, an excellent selection, and a decent support department.

[url=https://www.massdrop.com]Massdrop[/url] – A bulk buy site that can often get you good prices on amazing boards, flashy keycaps, and various other accessories. The shipping times are murderous, and their customer support is not great though.