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  1. tarantula notes:
  3. most likely going to go with brachypelma albopilosum!
  5. tank measurements:
  6. 20 1/8 length x 10 1/8 width x 12 height  
  7. (most people will refer to species by scientific names, this is because there is over 900 different species! one common name can cover multiple species so latin names are a must)
  8. scientific genera that are good for beginners:
  10.     • Aphonopelma
  11.     • Grammostola
  12.     • Brachypelma
  13. (possibly avicularia if i want arboreal, but they are usually faster and less hardy, should probably stick with the first 3)
  14.     • out of any of those three genus, any species should be ok
  15.     • could get a sling, juvenile, or mature, probably going to go with mature as a starter
  16.     • get a female for a longer life expectancy
  18. Enclosure:
  19.     • need holes, have to make sure they allow air to flow through (ex: holes on top and holes on front
  20.     • have to be careful with humidity, recommended to always have a full water bowl at all times
  21.     • once or twice per month, moist once corner of the enclosure and let it dry out completely
  22.     • once it has dried out completely do the other corner and circle
  23.     • no sponge in the water dish, never
  24.     • temperature: if i’m comfortable, tarantula is, however, it should usually be around (68-77°F)
  25.     • temperature will drop at night, it’s ok
  26.     • never use a heatmat or heat rock directly on the enclosure forget about it
  27.     • when building enclosures, have fun with it! diy is fun
  28. Tools:
  29.     • dremel tool, hot glue gun, silicon gun (safe silicon must be used, look for silicon for aquariums, should be fungusite free) need tweezers!!! 10” should do! brush is useful for seeing tarantulas reaction or getting to to move. straws are good for re-housing, strong enough to push tarantula but won’t hurt it. small wooden stick for poking stuff (lol) cup is good for getting it to re-house, has to have a lid and has to have holes drilled in bottom
  30. Feeding:
  31.     • feed generally once per week, slings twice per week
  32.     • crickets or mealworms
  33.     • tarantula may refuse to eat, if so after a few minutes of not eating, just remove prey item from enclosure
  34.     • refusing food might mean pre-molt
  35. Molting:
  36.     • some species could be noticeably darker, some may have abdomen that is black inside (clear indicator)
  37.     • first tarantula will make a silk net, then it will turn on its back, could take hours for it to pull itself out
  38.     • leave it alone! let it molt
  39.     • some may bury or close off their hide, doesn’t exclusively mean pre-molt but could
  40.     • if it’s molting, no need to hydrate it, a well hydrated tarantula should molt no issue
  41.     • after molt, exoskeleton will be very very soft
  42.     • they will act sluggish and will need 1-2 weeks to return to normal
  43.     • do not feed after molt until acting normally, usually wait a week for slings, two weeks for adult
  44. Handling:
  45.     • never handle a tarantula just for sake of handling tarantula. they do not like it. do not do it especially!!! with old worlds
  46. Behavior Quirks
  47.     • what if tarantula buries itself and closes burrow off? just leave it alone, keep track of water dish
  48.     • possible for tarantula to lose a leg, just for whatever reason. next molt, it will have leg back, don’t stress. just be aware. same thing goes for pedipalps or fangs
  49.     • most new worlds (all beginner new worlds listed above) will have hairs on abdomen that they can flick off at you. they will penetrate the skin. just be careful
  50. Common Mistakes
  51.     • Putting a sponge in your water dish- just unadvisable, don’t do it :/
  52.     • over obsessive about humidity and spraying tarantula enclose every day
  53.     • don’t need a heat source, if you’re comfortable your tarantula is
  54.     • keep enclosure out of direct sunlight
  55.     • not providing ample ventilation - best type of ventilation is cross ventilation
  56.     • don’t use mesh lids, pull the mesh out and retrofit it with plexiglass
  57.     • improper amount or wrong type of substrate
  58.     • over feeding
  59.     • do not feed it while in pre molt, also remove uneaten prey
  60.     • don’t interfere with a molt in progress
  62. Misc info:
  63.     • when people are selling, usually you will see weird numbers next to name                 (ex: 1.1 Brachypelma) first # is how many males, second is females, third is slings
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