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  1. 13.33.32 Brandano | brb, I need to rebooth this machine
  2. 13.33.43 <-- | Brandano (~Brandano@pdpc/supporter/professional/brandano) has quit (Quit: brb) 13.33.45 Gragagrogog | did anything changed with TVs having terrible input lag even in "gaming" mode?
  3. 13.33.45 jammi | it'd also be neat to do things like respond to the tv remote volume buttons on the amp, since the connection is optical digital and the tv has no volume control authority over the amp
  4. 13.34.10 jammi | kinda sucks to have a lot of remotes, but most of the universal ones suck as well
  5. 13.34.26 jammi | and since cec is supposedly a solution for that as well, it'd be neat to use it
  6. 13.35.11 jammi | Gragagrogog: dunno, I don't think my existing one lags any more than the old one, which didn't support any fanciness and was basically a hdmi monitor in my use
  7. 13.35.45 jammi | meaning, I haven't really noticed any lagginess 13.36.10 jammi | however, I skipped several generations of tv's in-between
  8. 13.36.57 jammi | basically from first gen 1080p with hdmi to current
  9. 13.38.33 jammi | 4k res and especially the deeper "hdr" color modes was the main incentive to upgrade, plus the old one's backlight didn't light up every time (and I replaced every cap on it)
  10. 13.39.23 Gragagrogog | i didn't look into TVs for a few years, i currently own none, when i last checked a few they all has android-ish interface, slow as fuck input switching and a slight lag even in gaming mode...
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  12. 13.41.22 jammi | input switching on all devices seem to take at least a second, including monitors
  13. 13.41.33 jammi | probably a lot of handshake bullshit going on there
  14. 13.41.53 Gragagrogog | i'm talking ~10s plus
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  16. 13.42.03 jammi | and yet the display devices don't appear to be powerful enough to buffer them all and then just switch internally the output
  17. 13.42.29 jammi | or the manufacturers just chose to save a penny there
  18. 13.42.46 Gragagrogog | there are KVM systems which can do it faster but that's kinda pricey solution
  19. 13.42.57 <-- | stellarmind (~user@118.189.32.149) has quit (Ping timeout: 240 seconds)
  20. 13.43.20 jammi | my old tv had just two hdmi ports, so I used an external hdmi switcher (that had optical breakout as well, since that was lacking on the old tv as well)
  21. 13.43.34 jammi | a chinese one, was maybe 20€ or so and 4 ports
  22. 13.43.54 jammi | worked very well, and still works, but I haven't hooked it up
  23. 13.45.00 jammi | also allowed to pass audio out when the tv was off, which is another thing that's clumsy to do with the current setup (there's support for turning the screen off and keeping the tv otherwise on, but it's buried behind several levels of menus)
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  26. 13.46.37 jammi | lg, webos 3.5 on this one. I'd rather have had a panasonic without all the multimedia bullshit builtin, but there were no resellers and they're large and heavy enough devices that shipping from other countries wouldn't be feasible
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  34. 14.03.47 axi_ | Half way through printing a box. On the first layer, the corners are curling away from the bed just a hair. Thoughts? Printing PLA @200C on a heated bed @50C with masking tape. Room ambient is around 23C.
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  36. 14.04.14 jammi | hairspray, or less infill
  37. 14.04.41 jammi | and add brims as well if you don't have any
  38. 14.05.15 * | axi_ is tired and/or stupid.
  39. 14.05.17 axi_ | Brims?
  40. 14.05.19 jammi | the denser the large part is, the higher the contraction force it has when it shrinks (leading to curling), which is why less infill might help
  41. 14.05.30 axi_ | AH gotcha makes sense
  42. 14.06.11 axi_ | You'd think an engineer would have a basic understanding of thermodynamics :c
  43. 14.07.02 jammi | better bonding with the bed helps to some degree as well, hence something like acrylate hairspray on glass works really well
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  45. 14.07.37 jammi | but also provides the hairspray layer to break away from the glass
  46. 14.08.23 fakenullie | hairspray is more useful for abs
  47. 14.08.25 jammi | preventing stuff from sticking so well that they're unremovable without breaking the glass once they're printed, even when cooled down
  48. 14.08.31 fakenullie | I think glue stick works better for pla
  49. 14.08.55 jammi | fakenullie: works well enough and imho better, and much less of a mess
  50. 14.09.12 fakenullie | axi_: do you have heater bead?
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  52. 14.09.15 fakenullie | bed
  53. 14.09.15 jammi | and if you apply it to clean glass, you get a really smooth and beautiful bottom layer
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  55. 14.09.36 jammi | fakenullie: clearly, since he's set it at 50°C
  56. 14.09.39 fakenullie | axi_: I'd try 60 or 70C
  57. 14.09.55 axi_ | Right. I figured with the lower ambient, warming the bed a bit might help
  58. 14.10.07 axi_ | But yeah I need to get a glass plate for the bed
  59. 14.10.14 fakenullie | I think I've printed pla on 80C
  60. 14.10.16 axi_ | Only have an aluminum heated bed for now
  61. 14.10.24 fakenullie | oh, aluminum
  62. 14.10.35 fakenullie | cut a glass
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  64. 14.10.40 fakenullie | or use ikea mirror
  65. 14.10.50 jammi | when you get the glass, turn the alu side to the bottom, and add some insulation
  66. 14.10.51 axi_ | But with masking tape this time. I'm going to get glass and hairspray/gluestick
  67. 14.10.56 axi_ | Gotcha
  68. 14.11.06 axi_ | Thank you guys for the advice :)
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  70. 14.11.13 jammi | and use some silicone pads between the pcb and glass
  71. 14.11.34 jammi | like ones for to220 packages if you don't have anything else available
  72. 14.11.49 fakenullie | I've never used silicon pads
  73. 14.12.01 jammi | also, corner clamps for the glass rather than something that clamps it down
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  75. 14.12.40 jammi | the latter may deform it and may not keep it in place well enough
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  78. 14.15.11 jammi | btw; any thermistor calibration tips? I spent yesterday getting marlin configured and patched (replaced an old repetier on the melzi), and calibrating my thermistors against a known good thermocouple
  79. 14.15.54 jammi | I got it spot on basically as far as thermistor vs thermocouple readings go, but when measuring actual inside-the-nozzle temps, readings are way off
  80. 14.16.11 jammi | like, up to 10-15°C
  81. 14.16.54 jammi | although it got better, like to the nearest 3°C or so after adding insulation on the hotend near the nozzle and thermistor
  82. 14.17.28 fakenullie | could be control loop issues
  83. 14.17.45 fakenullie | pid tuning
  84. 14.17.47 jammi | no, just the nature of thermal conductivity and radiation
  85. 14.18.00 --> | Brandano (~Brandano@pdpc/supporter/professional/brandano) has joined #reprap
  86. 14.18.01 jammi | ran pid tuning after every change in the setup
  87. 14.18.05 jammi | like always
  88. 14.18.37 Brandano | back
  89. 14.18.59 Brandano | jammi: I wish it actually worked, tbh. Does your printer have an enclosure?
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