Halston (2019)

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- It was
morning again in America.

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Millions of men and
women were going to work.

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And high up above the
streets, in his Olympic Tower,

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one of America's most
celebrated self-made men

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- The most successful
single individual

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in the history of
American fashion.

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Ladies and gentlemen, Halston.

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- Was
nowhere in sight.

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- The question that
all of New York

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was asking last night was,
whatever happened to Halston?

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- It's a story of high
fashion and high finance,

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as one of America's
big names in fashion.

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- It was business
as usual, you could say.

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They bought his name.

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Sold off his life's work
for pennies on the dollar.

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And when that wasn't enough,

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well, they forced him
out of his own office.

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Some will say he had it coming.

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But what he didn't see
coming were the tapes.

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All 215 of them, erased, as
per the corporation's order.

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- Liza
Minnelli in The Act.

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- Sportswear, knits,
broadcloth, menswear.

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This is Andy Warhol's
portrait of me, which was--

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- You see, pictures
meant everything to Halston.

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- And texture demands texture.

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- "Life is like
a picture," he used to say.

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- Who's that lucky guy?

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- Well, he
got his perfect picture.

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Only the price turned
out to be a little high.

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♪ Fame and fortune ♪

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♪ How empty they can be ♪

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♪ But when I hold
you in my arms ♪

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♪ That's heaven to me ♪

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♪ Who cares for
fame and fortune ♪

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♪ They're only passing things ♪

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♪ But the touch of
your lips on mine ♪

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♪ Makes me feel like a king ♪

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♪ Your kind of love ♪

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♪ Is a treasure I hold ♪

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♪ It's so much greater ♪

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♪ Than silver or gold ♪

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- It all started
in September of 1983,

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when Carl Epstein joined
Halston Enterprises.

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He was Halston's new
corporate manager,

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and he would be his last.

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Carl wanted to learn
everything about Halston,

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so I brought him the tapes.

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Who am I?

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Just someone working
in the archives.

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Nobody important for
our story, really.

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Our story is Halston.

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Behind the images flickering
on the screen, who was Halston?

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- I'd like to
go back in time a little bit,

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to just how you started.

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I know that you started with
hats and worked your way.

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- Oh, I--
- Were we gonna move this?

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- That's all right.

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- Please
let me know these things.

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- Are we rolling?

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- Am I--
- I was straightening the tie.

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- Okay.

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I don't mind it being
a little disheveled.

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- No, no, it's just--
- Oh, okay, thanks.

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Halston was the custom
milliner at Bergdorf.

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And we lived around the
corner from each other.

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So he and I would walk
to work every day.

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We'd be talking,
gossiping, having fun.

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He was so much fun.

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And then the minute we would
arrive to the building,

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and you'd have to go
through the revolving door,

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suddenly Halston had
arrived at Bergdorf.

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And the first time,
it quite shocked me.

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And then, of course,
I understood.

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He now has put on
his Halston mask.

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And the voice would change.

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Good morning, ladies.

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He was dealing with
the creme de la creme

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of women in the world.

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- Were
you the person

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who put the pillbox
on Jackie Kennedy?

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Yes, I was.

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- That hat was genius.

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If you look at
the Inauguration,

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most of those ladies
wore a mink coat.

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Jackie was in a cloth
coat and a cloth hat.

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- I'll never forget
the impact that hat had.

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Even out in Montana, where
I was sitting at the time.

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- It was a very funny story.

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Because it was a
rather windy day,

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and she put her
hand on the hat,

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and it ended up to
have a dent in it.

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And so when, during
all the ceremonies,

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it had a dent in the hat.

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And everybody who copied
it put a dent in it,

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which was so funny.

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I was quite a young man,

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but then I became very,
very famous quickly on that.

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It was the first time in
the history of Bergdorf

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that they promoted a
designer personality.

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And I headed a department
of 150 milliners

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and 12 sales ladies.

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- Bergdorf was a
very rarefied world.

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But he was born in
Des Moines, Iowa, as I read,

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because he never
told me any of this.

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Halston was so busy
moving forward.

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I knew very little about
Halston's personal life.

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Certainly, I didn't know
much about his background.

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In November of 1966,

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there was Truman Capote's
Black and White Ball.

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- Everybody wanted to be at
that ball, because it was it,

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you know, as far as where
you should go, you know?

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You would measure your social
importance by

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the invitation, getting
one or not getting one.

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- Do you know if
he was invited to the ball?

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- I would have thought so,
but now you, I have, I'm,

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I have my doubts, I
don't know, was he?

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- Halston did not have
an invite to the ball.

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- Are you rolling, Harvey?

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We have filmed this black
and white ball in color

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for your enlightenment.

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Good heavens, here comes
John Kenneth Galbraith.

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The Maharani of Baroda is here.

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And the Baroness de Rothchild,
and Mrs. Loel Guinness.

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We only tell you this
because we know that

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you were not rich, social,
or beautiful enough

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to be invited here tonight.

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- The irony is

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Halston had made more
than 100 masks that night.

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Kay Graham, who owned
The Washington Post.

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Candice Bergen.

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Of course, D.D. Ryan.

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D.D. Ryan was certainly one
of the chicest women going.

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- That's me,
dancing with Truman

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in the mask that
Halston made for me.

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- D.D. Ryan, former
editor and fashion legend.

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She had fallen on hard
times since the '60s,

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so Halston gave her a job.

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- I've known H
from the beginning.

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From before the
beginning, really.

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Back then, he was
still a milliner.

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Milliners didn't go
through the front door.

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Different world then.

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- I must have said,
are you going?

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And he said, "Oh, yes."

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That's all I can say.

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He didn't tell me everything.

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He wasn't invited by Truman,
but he got himself there.

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- Was this Halston?

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Or this one?

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Was he even at the ball?

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He was on everybody's
face that night.

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And yet, he was invisible.

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- He called me
one day and said,

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"There's something that
I need to tell you."

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I was in Southampton, I was
invited to a very grand dinner.

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Our hostess is a client,
and she likes me,

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and she invited me.

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And we sat down.

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And two of the husbands
never sat down.

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They stood behind their
chairs, everybody was seated,

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and the hostess looked up.

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And they said, "If these
two faggots are at table,

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"we will not be joining
you for your dinner."

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He said, "Tom, I just
need you to understand

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"that you and I could not hope

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"to be anything more than
trained faggot poodles,

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"to jump through the hoops
of these rich people."

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- The mental
image most people have

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of a male homosexual looks
pretty much like this.

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A man with effeminate
characteristics.

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The film you are now watching

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is purposely being projected
in its negative form

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to prevent identification
of the people it shows.

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The location is a
public bathing beach

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at 21st Street on Miami Beach.

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The scenes were photographed
with telescopic lenses

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from a hidden vantage point.

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Despite the negative image,

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the actions themselves
are easily recognized.

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- I met Halston at Fire Island.

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He was just, you know, just
a fabulous human being.

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And we became fast friends.

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♪ This precious time
just kept me waiting ♪

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- The freedom of our sexuality
there, life before AIDS.

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Halston and I partied
a great deal together.

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♪ In a brand new groove ♪

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We would go dancing
in Harlem.

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♪ Don't need your help and
your tight and old rules ♪

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- It was always
very, very, very eclectic.

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- Now!

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- But the
'60s in general

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were a political, moral,
social revolution.

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- Halston understood
that there was

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a whole new social
order coming in.

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The war baby boom came of age.

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Drugs, sex, and rock and roll.

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Even the French
couture changed.

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St. Laurent,
Givenchy, and Cardin

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opened up ready-to-wear
boutiques.

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And so, Halston saw
all of that in Paris,

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and there was tension
with the Bergdorf people.

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- Halston came to see me,
and he said, "I have backing.

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"Would you clean up your act?"

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I was deep into
drugs by that time.

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But I did stop
intravenous drugs

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and went to work with him.

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♪ This the house that
Jack built, y'all ♪

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♪ Remember this house ♪

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♪ This was the land
the he worked by hand ♪

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- Well, the salon was on
68th Street and Madison,

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00:13:46,034 --> 00:13:50,247
in this little, tiny walk-up
kind of derelict building.

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00:13:50,413 --> 00:13:52,958
Compared to Bergdorf Goodman,
I thought, like, you know,

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00:13:53,124 --> 00:13:55,794
wow, this is, like,
didn't feel so fancy.

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Then you went upstairs, a
plain door, and you'd knock,

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00:13:59,548 --> 00:14:01,007
and then you'd go in,
it was just magic.

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00:14:01,174 --> 00:14:04,886
♪ What is the use of crying ♪

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00:14:05,053 --> 00:14:06,888
- Basically, it was just
a floor-through apartment

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00:14:07,055 --> 00:14:09,349
that they turned into this
incredible background,

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00:14:09,516 --> 00:14:11,768
which is all just sort
of magical and exotic,

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00:14:11,935 --> 00:14:13,520
and you felt like you
were in an Indian palace

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00:14:13,687 --> 00:14:14,771
or you didn't know
where you were.

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You're on safari.

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00:14:16,565 --> 00:14:17,899
It was very wild.

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And I remember the furniture,

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00:14:19,442 --> 00:14:20,402
because it was
very uncomfortable.

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It was horn furniture.

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Like you sat in them,

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00:14:23,572 --> 00:14:24,322
and you just didn't
want to sit in them,

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00:14:24,489 --> 00:14:26,491
but it looked great.

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♪ In the house that Jack built ♪
♪ The house that Jack built ♪

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♪ I'm gonn' remember
this house ♪

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00:14:30,495 --> 00:14:31,955
♪ The house that Jack built ♪

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00:14:32,122 --> 00:14:34,583
- Halston made the
atmosphere very democratic.

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00:14:34,749 --> 00:14:37,085
I mean, I'm a poor kid
from Long Island City.

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00:14:37,252 --> 00:14:41,798
But then there was Marisa
Berenson and Berry,

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00:14:41,965 --> 00:14:43,550
who grew up in Paris.

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00:14:44,968 --> 00:14:46,761
- It was a mix of
social circles.

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00:14:46,928 --> 00:14:49,389
And that's what was so
great about that era,

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is that it was a big
mix of interesting,

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fascinating people.

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Like Elsa.

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- I love to be
with homosexuals.

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00:14:59,190 --> 00:15:02,736
I stay 15 years with
homosexuals, and I loved them.

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00:15:02,902 --> 00:15:05,572
Because I didn't
have the lover.

245
00:15:07,532 --> 00:15:08,742
- Pat Cleveland was
discovered on a subway car.

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00:15:08,908 --> 00:15:11,036
- I was still in high school.

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00:15:11,202 --> 00:15:13,371
I went into the room, and
he looked at me and he said,

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00:15:13,538 --> 00:15:17,459
"Okay, you'll be here
tomorrow for the show."

249
00:15:17,626 --> 00:15:20,045
- He was
totally laser-focused

250
00:15:20,211 --> 00:15:21,755
on this collection

251
00:15:21,921 --> 00:15:26,343
because, in his mind, I'm
sure this was make or break.

252
00:15:26,509 --> 00:15:28,053
- All the ladies of
society were there.

253
00:15:28,219 --> 00:15:31,014
The Vogue ladies were
sitting in the front row.

254
00:15:31,181 --> 00:15:33,850
Oh, my goodness, this is
it, we're doing this show.

255
00:15:34,017 --> 00:15:35,769
And he lined us girls up.

256
00:15:35,935 --> 00:15:37,270
We were all perfectly dressed.

257
00:15:37,437 --> 00:15:39,105
And he would go
to the first girl,

258
00:15:39,272 --> 00:15:41,316
and he'd whisper
something into their ear.

259
00:15:41,483 --> 00:15:44,611
And he'd say, "Now, don't
forget, you're the best."

260
00:15:55,997 --> 00:15:59,334
♪ And what costume shall
the poor girl wear ♪

261
00:15:59,501 --> 00:16:02,045
- His clothes hit
me like, this is it.

262
00:16:02,212 --> 00:16:05,632
This is the fashion that
I would want to wear.

263
00:16:05,799 --> 00:16:09,302
♪ To all tomorrow's parties ♪

264
00:16:09,469 --> 00:16:10,804
- No zippers.

265
00:16:10,970 --> 00:16:13,306
Just get in and
out over your head.

266
00:16:13,473 --> 00:16:14,808
♪ A hand-me-down dress ♪

267
00:16:14,974 --> 00:16:16,434
- Overnight success.

268
00:16:16,601 --> 00:16:18,561
It was a clean look.

269
00:16:18,728 --> 00:16:23,817
The simplicity was really
needed after the '60s.

270
00:16:23,983 --> 00:16:28,071
And it was all-American,
from an all-American boy.

271
00:16:33,785 --> 00:16:35,078
- Let's meet our
first challenger.

272
00:16:35,245 --> 00:16:37,497
So, will you enter
and sign in, please?

273
00:16:40,625 --> 00:16:41,960
Mr. X.

274
00:16:47,757 --> 00:16:49,467
Panel, this is Mr. X,

275
00:16:49,634 --> 00:16:52,387
and may I tell you that Mr. X
is concerned with a product.

276
00:16:52,554 --> 00:16:55,014
And now let's show our
audience just who our guest is

277
00:16:55,181 --> 00:16:56,975
and what his product is.

278
00:17:03,064 --> 00:17:06,276
- Can I rule out that
your name is Valentino?

279
00:17:06,443 --> 00:17:08,194
- You can rule that out.

280
00:17:08,361 --> 00:17:09,988
- All right, no, no, I'm sure
if I hear the name, I'll know.

281
00:17:10,155 --> 00:17:11,698
It's because I don't
recognize you on site.

282
00:17:11,865 --> 00:17:16,327
But would the clothing be
the new sensation hot pants?

283
00:17:16,494 --> 00:17:17,412
- That's it!
- Yes.

284
00:17:17,579 --> 00:17:18,371
- Is that right?

285
00:17:27,797 --> 00:17:30,550
- Felt like the beginning
because he was so enthusiastic,

286
00:17:30,717 --> 00:17:34,429
and everybody was so charmed
with him, and so young,

287
00:17:34,596 --> 00:17:36,014
and it was enticing.

288
00:17:36,181 --> 00:17:39,058
You just wanted to be
in the room with him.

289
00:17:40,143 --> 00:17:41,436
- I was 18.

290
00:17:41,603 --> 00:17:43,021
I was so innocent.

291
00:17:43,188 --> 00:17:44,314
I knew nothing.

292
00:17:46,232 --> 00:17:48,318
I was from the Midwest.

293
00:17:48,485 --> 00:17:50,612
Everyone was unusual for me.

294
00:17:50,779 --> 00:17:51,863
Like Pat Ast.

295
00:17:53,156 --> 00:17:56,659
She was an Andy Warhol
superstar with frizzy hair.

296
00:17:56,826 --> 00:17:59,662
♪ I'm just wild about Andy ♪

297
00:17:59,829 --> 00:18:02,874
♪ And Andy's wild about me ♪

298
00:18:03,041 --> 00:18:07,712
♪ The heavenly blisses
of his kisses ♪

299
00:18:07,879 --> 00:18:11,591
♪ They fill me with ecstasy ♪

300
00:18:11,758 --> 00:18:13,301
- This was definitely
the in crowd.

301
00:18:13,468 --> 00:18:15,136
Andy kept saying, "Oh,
this is, you know,

302
00:18:15,303 --> 00:18:16,304
"this is so in, Bob.

303
00:18:16,471 --> 00:18:17,680
"This is so in."

304
00:18:19,641 --> 00:18:22,018
He knew Halston from the 1950s,

305
00:18:22,185 --> 00:18:26,481
when Andy was doing ads
and windows for Bergdorf's.

306
00:18:26,648 --> 00:18:28,775
He was comfortable in
the world of fashion.

307
00:18:28,942 --> 00:18:30,819
♪ Wild about me ♪

308
00:18:44,624 --> 00:18:47,043
- Joe was not
only the illustrator,

309
00:18:47,210 --> 00:18:48,837
but a close friend.

310
00:18:49,003 --> 00:18:52,799
You know, Halston was very
cool, and Joe was very hot.

311
00:18:56,302 --> 00:18:57,762
- He was drawn to people

312
00:18:57,929 --> 00:19:00,557
who just displayed
their emotions.

313
00:19:00,723 --> 00:19:04,352
And also, have this
tremendous aesthetic side.

314
00:19:08,398 --> 00:19:11,609
- And he believed so
much on me, Halston.

315
00:19:11,776 --> 00:19:15,071
- Elsa would be there
drawing things all the time.

316
00:19:15,238 --> 00:19:18,491
And Halston said, "You need
to be a jewelry designer."

317
00:19:18,658 --> 00:19:21,494
And somehow she made this
jewelry for us, which is,

318
00:19:21,661 --> 00:19:24,747
I had two of these,
one was stolen.

319
00:19:24,914 --> 00:19:25,832
- Why I did do jewelry?

320
00:19:25,999 --> 00:19:28,459
I just was trapped into it.

321
00:19:28,626 --> 00:19:32,589
I did something for fun,
it became a success.

322
00:19:32,755 --> 00:19:34,424
- Really?

323
00:19:35,592 --> 00:19:36,551
- We were hipsters.

324
00:19:36,718 --> 00:19:38,094
We thought we were.

325
00:19:38,261 --> 00:19:41,264
We probably weren't
at all, but, you know.

326
00:19:41,431 --> 00:19:44,017
My husband, Bill, was
starting to work at Halston's.

327
00:19:44,183 --> 00:19:46,561
They got along
really well together.

328
00:19:46,728 --> 00:19:49,022
In the beginning, he
couldn't wait to go to work.

329
00:19:49,188 --> 00:19:51,983
And that's a great
feeling, isn't it?

330
00:19:53,151 --> 00:19:56,112
- Bill Dugan
was the first disciple.

331
00:19:56,279 --> 00:20:00,408
And 12 years later, he was
still spreading the gospel.

332
00:20:00,575 --> 00:20:03,536
- If you want to understand
Halston's clothes,

333
00:20:03,703 --> 00:20:06,164
you have to understand
the lineage first.

334
00:20:06,331 --> 00:20:08,917
You see, when he
did his first line,

335
00:20:09,083 --> 00:20:10,418
I think he was the
first to be surprised

336
00:20:10,585 --> 00:20:13,379
at how good he really was.

337
00:20:13,546 --> 00:20:17,967
The other who was surprised,
of course, was his mentor.

338
00:20:22,889 --> 00:20:25,808
- Oh, I think perhaps
Charles James,

339
00:20:25,975 --> 00:20:27,602
who was a friend of mine.

340
00:20:31,606 --> 00:20:33,274
- Charles James is
such an amazing figure.

341
00:20:33,441 --> 00:20:34,692
Difficult, controversial.

342
00:20:34,859 --> 00:20:35,818
But he's one of
these people that,

343
00:20:35,985 --> 00:20:37,487
he was so amazingly talented.

344
00:20:37,654 --> 00:20:40,782
♪ I know what it
is to be young ♪

345
00:20:40,949 --> 00:20:42,325
- Even the
Europeans understood

346
00:20:42,492 --> 00:20:45,078
that Charles James
was a singular genius.

347
00:20:45,244 --> 00:20:46,913
♪ You don't know what it is ♪

348
00:20:47,080 --> 00:20:48,831
♪ To be old ♪

349
00:20:48,998 --> 00:20:51,334
- Halston had this
incredible fascination,

350
00:20:51,501 --> 00:20:54,462
and I would say envy
of Charles James.

351
00:20:54,629 --> 00:20:58,383
♪ You'll be saying
the same thing ♪

352
00:20:58,549 --> 00:21:00,134
- He mimicked Charles.

353
00:21:00,301 --> 00:21:01,594
Charles would say things like,

354
00:21:01,761 --> 00:21:04,263
"You're only as good
as who you dress."

355
00:21:04,430 --> 00:21:06,099
And suddenly
Halston was saying,

356
00:21:06,265 --> 00:21:09,185
"You're only as good
as who you dress."

357
00:21:10,311 --> 00:21:12,271
♪ I've asked so
many questions ♪

358
00:21:12,438 --> 00:21:14,190
- In the late '60s,

359
00:21:14,357 --> 00:21:17,527
Charles James was really out
of his luck, and he owed money.

360
00:21:17,694 --> 00:21:19,612
And he really wasn't designing.

361
00:21:19,779 --> 00:21:21,698
♪ Find all the answers ♪

362
00:21:21,864 --> 00:21:23,074
- It's true that you're
considering going on welfare,

363
00:21:23,241 --> 00:21:24,575
isn't it?
- Yes, it is.

364
00:21:24,742 --> 00:21:26,452
In order to get my
doctor's bills paid.

365
00:21:26,619 --> 00:21:27,578
It's just the most shocking--

366
00:21:27,745 --> 00:21:29,163
- Halston felt for him.

367
00:21:29,330 --> 00:21:31,916
♪ There'll be
days to remember ♪

368
00:21:32,083 --> 00:21:33,626
- So he
hired Charles James

369
00:21:33,793 --> 00:21:36,254
to help him with a collection.

370
00:21:57,900 --> 00:22:01,154
- James's working
methodology was overworking

371
00:22:01,320 --> 00:22:03,614
and overworking the same idea,

372
00:22:03,781 --> 00:22:06,826
and creating things that were
so incredibly complicated

373
00:22:06,993 --> 00:22:09,203
that it simply wasn't viable.

374
00:22:13,332 --> 00:22:15,001
- Charles was furious
throughout the whole thing

375
00:22:15,168 --> 00:22:16,669
'cause it wasn't right.

376
00:22:16,836 --> 00:22:20,256
Charles wanted control,
Halston wanted control.

377
00:22:20,423 --> 00:22:24,343
It was almost like father
and rebellious son.

378
00:22:24,510 --> 00:22:25,470
It was a disaster, by the way.

379
00:22:25,636 --> 00:22:27,180
The collection was a disaster.

380
00:22:27,346 --> 00:22:28,681
- The few pieces that I've seen

381
00:22:28,848 --> 00:22:30,933
look a little
tortured, frankly.

382
00:22:31,100 --> 00:22:32,727
Very typical of James's work,

383
00:22:32,894 --> 00:22:35,104
where he would take fabric
and twist it and torque it.

384
00:22:35,271 --> 00:22:37,690
And in the end result, you had
things that looked amazing,

385
00:22:37,857 --> 00:22:40,318
in a way, but
somehow unwearable.

386
00:22:42,445 --> 00:22:44,781
- Halston said, "Well, I
just want you to know that,

387
00:22:44,947 --> 00:22:47,158
"you know, I'm locking
Charles out of the workroom."

388
00:22:52,371 --> 00:22:55,249
- Halston is a
middle-of-the-road man,

389
00:22:55,416 --> 00:23:00,630
who would be better as a buyer
in a store, or a stylist.

390
00:23:02,006 --> 00:23:07,470
He knows how to select
good things to copy.

391
00:23:07,637 --> 00:23:11,808
But his passion has been
to put his name on it.

392
00:23:11,974 --> 00:23:18,147
For which action, the word
plagiarism is correct.

393
00:23:21,776 --> 00:23:23,444
- Halston didn't copy.

394
00:23:23,611 --> 00:23:26,030
Eventually, I went
to work for Halston,

395
00:23:26,197 --> 00:23:32,161
and I saw that Halston took
concepts of Charles James

396
00:23:32,328 --> 00:23:33,663
and relaxed them.

397
00:23:36,791 --> 00:23:39,210
His clothes were
for a modern time.

398
00:23:39,377 --> 00:23:41,504
For a time where
women's lifestyle

399
00:23:41,671 --> 00:23:43,256
had changed completely.

400
00:23:43,422 --> 00:23:44,382
I mean, he understood that.

401
00:23:50,805 --> 00:23:52,348
- Elegance and ease.

402
00:23:54,308 --> 00:23:58,896
A sense of owning power,
without being masculine.

403
00:24:00,148 --> 00:24:02,984
And honoring the
body that you have.

404
00:24:04,819 --> 00:24:08,197
Basically, you were
usually naked underneath.

405
00:24:08,364 --> 00:24:11,075
- You were free
inside your clothes.

406
00:24:14,745 --> 00:24:17,206
- He took away the cage.

407
00:24:17,373 --> 00:24:18,749
And he made things

408
00:24:18,916 --> 00:24:21,836
as though you didn't
really need the structure

409
00:24:22,003 --> 00:24:24,589
as much as you
needed the woman.

410
00:24:24,755 --> 00:24:29,177
He really based most of his
collection on most of us girls.

411
00:24:29,343 --> 00:24:30,845
- I think maybe we just had
a pin there to hold it up,

412
00:24:31,012 --> 00:24:32,013
it might be good, huh?

413
00:24:32,180 --> 00:24:33,514
- Mm-hmm.

414
00:24:33,681 --> 00:24:36,142
- Let's see you turn
in it, Chrissy, huh?

415
00:24:36,309 --> 00:24:40,354
- Fabric to Halston was
like clay to a sculptor.

416
00:24:40,521 --> 00:24:43,024
He knew how to use it.

417
00:24:43,191 --> 00:24:47,528
And everything was cut on
the bias, so it spiraled.

418
00:24:47,695 --> 00:24:49,197
- Basically,
bias is cutting fabric

419
00:24:49,363 --> 00:24:52,241
on an oblique, or
45-degree angle.

420
00:24:52,408 --> 00:24:54,577
Fabric is usually cut
on the straight grain.

421
00:24:54,744 --> 00:24:55,828
If you've ever cut
something on the bias,

422
00:24:55,995 --> 00:24:57,788
it flows over the body.

423
00:24:57,955 --> 00:25:00,458
It opens up, if you will.

424
00:25:00,625 --> 00:25:02,376
- It's very hard to do it.

425
00:25:02,543 --> 00:25:03,794
Nothing is straight.

426
00:25:03,961 --> 00:25:06,839
It's very hard to
sew, everything moves.

427
00:25:07,006 --> 00:25:09,842
Especially on chiffon,
it's very hard to control.

428
00:25:10,009 --> 00:25:12,678
But he made it so easy.

429
00:25:12,845 --> 00:25:15,348
- He just would throw a
piece of fabric on the floor,

430
00:25:15,514 --> 00:25:17,266
and cut through it.

431
00:25:17,433 --> 00:25:21,520
Pick it up, throw it on you,
and then, pfft, it was a dress.

432
00:25:22,897 --> 00:25:24,106
- That's genius.

433
00:25:25,441 --> 00:25:26,400
It's a dress.

434
00:25:26,567 --> 00:25:28,736
Just from the way he cut it.

435
00:25:28,903 --> 00:25:30,571
I don't know anybody
who could do that.

436
00:25:30,738 --> 00:25:31,948
He's the only one.

437
00:25:55,596 --> 00:25:58,724
- That's probably the
largest Halston collection

438
00:25:58,891 --> 00:26:02,019
of all the museums
in the States.

439
00:26:02,186 --> 00:26:03,437
When I started working here,

440
00:26:03,604 --> 00:26:05,564
I started really
looking at the clothes.

441
00:26:05,731 --> 00:26:09,860
And I'm most fascinated with
the single-seam patterns.

442
00:26:11,904 --> 00:26:13,656
Similar to the one
that's up there,

443
00:26:13,823 --> 00:26:15,157
which looks like a painting,

444
00:26:15,324 --> 00:26:17,994
is actually the
pattern for that dress.

445
00:26:19,078 --> 00:26:20,329
It's really hard
to see it, flat.

446
00:26:20,496 --> 00:26:24,125
But, and just spirals.

447
00:26:24,875 --> 00:26:26,210
And this is another one

448
00:26:26,377 --> 00:26:29,880
that is cut from one
piece of fabric, folded.

449
00:26:30,047 --> 00:26:34,510
You cut out the neck, and the
seam goes from here to here,

450
00:26:34,677 --> 00:26:36,846
down the side, and then across.

451
00:26:37,013 --> 00:26:38,973
It's one piece of fabric.

452
00:26:39,140 --> 00:26:41,017
The pattern looks like
a Cuisinart blade.

453
00:26:44,687 --> 00:26:47,189
Very much like the art, at
the time, like abstract art.

454
00:26:47,356 --> 00:26:51,736
It was reducing it down to
its least common denominators.

455
00:26:55,656 --> 00:26:57,366
- I think if fashion
history would write it,

456
00:26:57,533 --> 00:26:59,660
I'd like to have a
credit point of saying

457
00:26:59,827 --> 00:27:01,954
maybe we cleaned it up
a bit, where, you know,

458
00:27:02,121 --> 00:27:04,165
I have a theory that less
becomes more, so much.

459
00:27:04,332 --> 00:27:05,041
- Uh-huh.

460
00:27:06,792 --> 00:27:09,086
- I felt more
intimidated by Halston

461
00:27:09,253 --> 00:27:12,423
than by whatever man
I met in my life.

462
00:27:12,590 --> 00:27:14,008
- Because?

463
00:27:14,175 --> 00:27:16,552
- Because everything
he was doing was great.

464
00:27:16,719 --> 00:27:18,387
Every time, every time.

465
00:27:19,764 --> 00:27:21,057
He astonished me.

466
00:27:22,183 --> 00:27:23,768
- How do
you feel when you, say,

467
00:27:23,934 --> 00:27:25,519
walk into a restaurant in
New York, and a lady comes in

468
00:27:25,686 --> 00:27:28,022
looking smashing in
a Halston outfit?

469
00:27:28,189 --> 00:27:30,691
- I'm very proud.

470
00:27:30,858 --> 00:27:34,570
I'm just very proud if somebody
looks good in it, you know?

471
00:27:34,737 --> 00:27:35,654
- What
if she comes in

472
00:27:35,821 --> 00:27:38,032
and doesn't look good in it?

473
00:27:38,199 --> 00:27:41,410
Then I'm not so
proud.

474
00:27:42,745 --> 00:27:44,163
- The Halston market

475
00:27:44,330 --> 00:27:45,915
is in the better stores
across the country.

476
00:27:46,082 --> 00:27:47,458
In New York, it's
Bergdorf Goodman,

477
00:27:47,625 --> 00:27:49,293
where he has a boutique

478
00:27:49,460 --> 00:27:52,046
in the same spot he started
selling hats to rich ladies

479
00:27:52,213 --> 00:27:53,839
15 years ago.

480
00:27:54,006 --> 00:27:55,925
This is Halston off the rack.

481
00:27:56,092 --> 00:27:57,510
The favorite item?

482
00:27:57,676 --> 00:28:00,429
An Ultrasuede shirt dress
with a $200 price tag

483
00:28:00,596 --> 00:28:03,808
that has broken all
previous sales records.

484
00:28:05,226 --> 00:28:06,435
- You're late.

485
00:28:06,602 --> 00:28:07,895
My god, are you ever
on time, come on.

486
00:28:08,062 --> 00:28:09,814
- But for
real extravagance,

487
00:28:09,980 --> 00:28:12,233
the ladies come to Halston's
own showroom on Madison Avenue,

488
00:28:12,400 --> 00:28:14,735
where super saleswoman Pat Ast

489
00:28:14,902 --> 00:28:17,655
will give them that
special treatment.

490
00:28:17,822 --> 00:28:19,240
- What
about Pat Ast?

491
00:28:19,407 --> 00:28:21,367
Some people have suggested
that by using her,

492
00:28:21,534 --> 00:28:24,370
you're putting
down fashion a bit.

493
00:28:24,537 --> 00:28:26,997
- Well, if you think
that Patty is a put-down,

494
00:28:27,164 --> 00:28:28,124
but I don't think so.

495
00:28:28,290 --> 00:28:30,209
I take her very seriously.

496
00:28:30,376 --> 00:28:33,087
And I like to make
her glamorous.

497
00:28:33,254 --> 00:28:36,132
- Halston designs things that
are made especially for me,

498
00:28:36,298 --> 00:28:39,135
which is the most incredible
thing, 'cause looking at me,

499
00:28:39,301 --> 00:28:42,304
you know I'm not the
normal size woman.

500
00:28:43,597 --> 00:28:45,516
- I think he appreciated
the woman's body.

501
00:28:45,683 --> 00:28:48,978
I think he appreciated all
the different types of women.

502
00:28:49,145 --> 00:28:52,064
He loved all of the
diversity of his models.

503
00:28:52,231 --> 00:28:53,899
- If you take this down, Iman.
- Yeah.

504
00:28:54,066 --> 00:28:56,610
- And you turn around, that
way so you see a decollete.

505
00:28:56,777 --> 00:28:58,904
This is Iman's first show.

506
00:28:59,071 --> 00:29:00,656
She's never been in a
fashion show before.

507
00:29:00,823 --> 00:29:03,617
How do you feel about your
first fashion show, Iman?

508
00:29:03,784 --> 00:29:05,161
- I'm very nervous.

509
00:29:10,207 --> 00:29:12,668
- He always loved
different personalities.

510
00:29:12,835 --> 00:29:14,336
And he encouraged that.

511
00:29:14,503 --> 00:29:16,046
- Do you think that models
are some of the sexy,

512
00:29:16,213 --> 00:29:17,631
most beautiful
girls in the world?

513
00:29:17,798 --> 00:29:19,300
- Sometimes.

514
00:29:19,467 --> 00:29:20,426
- Do you think they should
all be in the movies?

515
00:29:20,593 --> 00:29:22,261
- No.

516
00:29:22,428 --> 00:29:25,556
- He also loved the
idea of being controversial.

517
00:29:25,723 --> 00:29:27,391
I remember the Coty Award Show,

518
00:29:27,558 --> 00:29:31,770
he decided it was gonna be a
happening, so anything goes.

519
00:29:31,937 --> 00:29:32,897
- Tell me something.

520
00:29:33,063 --> 00:29:34,565
- I'm gonna tell you.

521
00:29:34,732 --> 00:29:36,358
I hope that show goes
better than the rehearsal.

522
00:29:36,525 --> 00:29:40,446
- All the fashion world is
waiting for the Coty Awards.

523
00:29:40,613 --> 00:29:41,906
- The audience
in the Coty Awards

524
00:29:42,072 --> 00:29:44,158
tend to be a
little more formal.

525
00:29:44,325 --> 00:29:47,203
But Halston wanted to
be very irreverent.

526
00:29:47,369 --> 00:29:50,247
- Andy and Halston
came up with this idea

527
00:29:50,414 --> 00:29:54,585
that it was like a talent
show, Halston's Talent Hour.

528
00:30:01,717 --> 00:30:03,469
I played the clarinet.

529
00:30:03,636 --> 00:30:06,555
He said, "What can
you do?"

530
00:30:06,722 --> 00:30:08,390
"What else can you do?"

531
00:30:11,852 --> 00:30:13,896
♪ Oh yeah ♪

532
00:30:15,397 --> 00:30:18,067
- The audience, they didn't
know what to make of it.

533
00:30:21,111 --> 00:30:23,155
Halston wanted it to be,
just throw everything in,

534
00:30:23,322 --> 00:30:24,907
including the kitchen sink.

535
00:30:25,074 --> 00:30:29,245
And by the way, have Pat come
out of the birthday cake.

536
00:30:30,746 --> 00:30:33,958
♪ Ah ah ah ah ah ♪

537
00:30:34,124 --> 00:30:38,295
♪ Happy birthday to me ♪

538
00:30:38,462 --> 00:30:42,758
♪ Happy birthday to me ♪

539
00:30:42,925 --> 00:30:46,762
♪ Happy birthday,
happy birthday ♪

540
00:30:55,104 --> 00:30:58,274
- He took a chance, a leap
of faith to be something

541
00:30:58,440 --> 00:31:02,152
that maybe a lot of people
think they can't do.

542
00:31:06,448 --> 00:31:09,493
He would say, "You can
have anything you want.

543
00:31:09,660 --> 00:31:12,079
"You're a good person."

544
00:31:12,246 --> 00:31:14,582
You know, that feeling that
somebody believes in you.

545
00:31:14,748 --> 00:31:16,208
You know?

546
00:31:16,375 --> 00:31:20,004
And because of that, you
know, he made me stronger.

547
00:31:25,384 --> 00:31:30,472
Waterproof.

548
00:31:35,644 --> 00:31:39,106
I remember one time we
went out West to do a show,

549
00:31:39,273 --> 00:31:41,150
and Halston said, "I
want you to come with me.

550
00:31:41,317 --> 00:31:43,611
I wanna see something."

551
00:31:43,777 --> 00:31:45,529
He rented a car.

552
00:31:45,696 --> 00:31:49,199
And you never saw him drive
'cause we'd always be in limos.

553
00:31:49,366 --> 00:31:53,245
And we went way out in the
middle of nowhere, out there.

554
00:31:53,412 --> 00:31:54,955
Not a lot to look
at.

555
00:31:55,122 --> 00:31:56,165
Sky and earth.

556
00:32:00,753 --> 00:32:02,254
And he said, "That's
where I grew up.

557
00:32:02,421 --> 00:32:04,256
"This is where I grew up."

558
00:32:04,423 --> 00:32:05,883
And we'd be in the
middle of nowhere.

559
00:32:06,050 --> 00:32:09,345
Just, like, farms, with
the big rolls of hay.

560
00:32:09,511 --> 00:32:14,350
He said, "I just wanted
to come by here."

561
00:32:19,480 --> 00:32:22,858
- I only lived in Iowa for
about five minutes, you know.

562
00:32:23,025 --> 00:32:25,069
I mean, I moved out of
Iowa as a young man.

563
00:32:25,235 --> 00:32:26,737
It was during the
Second World War,

564
00:32:26,904 --> 00:32:28,155
and my father was in a business

565
00:32:28,322 --> 00:32:30,282
that took us from
one place to another,

566
00:32:30,449 --> 00:32:31,992
so I lived in the
Lake of the Ozarks,

567
00:32:32,159 --> 00:32:34,995
and I lived in Kentucky,
and I lived in Missouri,

568
00:32:35,162 --> 00:32:37,623
and then we finally
settled in Indiana.

569
00:32:37,790 --> 00:32:39,083
So I was all over, you know.

570
00:32:39,249 --> 00:32:42,044
It was sort of an
unsettled time.

571
00:32:42,211 --> 00:32:44,380
- When
you do go back home--

572
00:32:44,546 --> 00:32:46,882
- There is no home
in Iowa, you see?

573
00:32:47,049 --> 00:32:48,967
What else do you think
we should go over?

574
00:32:49,134 --> 00:32:50,761
- Just a
little bit of the history.

575
00:32:50,928 --> 00:32:52,638
I think that would be good
for us to have and so forth.

576
00:32:52,805 --> 00:32:54,640
- Oh, let's not go into the
whole history crap, you know.

577
00:32:54,807 --> 00:32:55,974
What about right now?

578
00:32:56,141 --> 00:32:57,559
- But
this is history.

579
00:32:57,726 --> 00:33:00,437
- The past just doesn't
interest me so much.

580
00:33:00,604 --> 00:33:04,274
I think you have pretty much,
I think you have enough.

581
00:33:04,441 --> 00:33:05,818
- And
we need a transcript

582
00:33:05,984 --> 00:33:07,444
as soon as possible.

583
00:33:42,938 --> 00:33:44,565
- His mother would
come and visit,

584
00:33:44,732 --> 00:33:47,401
and she always
called him Hahl-ston.

585
00:33:48,861 --> 00:33:52,322
And he had changed the
pronunciation to Hall-ston,

586
00:33:52,489 --> 00:33:54,366
but she would correct you.

587
00:33:54,533 --> 00:33:58,454
"His name is Hahl-ston,
it's a family name."

588
00:33:58,620 --> 00:34:02,249
She also used to say
Hahl-ston had disappeared,

589
00:34:03,459 --> 00:34:07,296
but Hall-ston was a force
to be reckoned with.

590
00:34:12,384 --> 00:34:16,346
And this is the manager
of the boutique.

591
00:34:16,513 --> 00:34:19,892
Ed was just as
handsome as Halston.

592
00:34:20,058 --> 00:34:25,063
And had just as much charisma.

593
00:34:30,110 --> 00:34:32,029
- Ed Austin.

594
00:34:33,572 --> 00:34:35,282
- Never mentioned his dad,

595
00:34:35,449 --> 00:34:38,702
but he called his mom every
week, every Monday afternoon.

596
00:34:38,869 --> 00:34:40,579
Hallie Mae.

597
00:34:40,746 --> 00:34:43,457
I'm being careful
about what I'm saying.

598
00:34:43,624 --> 00:34:45,751
I don't know how much
you know about me.

599
00:34:45,918 --> 00:34:48,962
- I didn't know it at
the time, but apparently,

600
00:34:49,129 --> 00:34:52,549
Halston and Ed had had
a relationship earlier.

601
00:34:55,344 --> 00:34:56,762
- I was kept hidden.

602
00:34:56,929 --> 00:34:58,889
I still don't know why.

603
00:34:59,056 --> 00:35:01,350
I would go to his
house at night.

604
00:35:01,517 --> 00:35:03,018
The doorman would
stop me and say,

605
00:35:03,185 --> 00:35:06,522
"The deliveries go in the
back," that sort of thing.

606
00:35:08,732 --> 00:35:11,235
We had a wonderful
relationship.

607
00:35:11,401 --> 00:35:15,697
He used to call me the crown
prince, and he was the king.

608
00:35:15,864 --> 00:35:18,033
- When did it end?

609
00:35:19,827 --> 00:35:22,162
- One Christmas,

610
00:35:22,329 --> 00:35:25,707
Ed had done this absolutely
beautiful window.

611
00:35:27,376 --> 00:35:32,422
And that was the day that
Victor Hugo took over.

612
00:35:47,104 --> 00:35:48,355
- Victor came down

613
00:35:48,522 --> 00:35:51,066
and started to
rearrange Ed's window.

614
00:35:53,610 --> 00:35:57,072
It was very asymmetrical,
and very haphazard.

615
00:35:58,991 --> 00:36:01,869
But Halston came and
loved the window.

616
00:36:03,412 --> 00:36:08,292
When Ed saw it, he just put
on his coat and went home.

617
00:36:08,458 --> 00:36:10,961
It was the changing
of the guard.

618
00:36:12,254 --> 00:36:14,464
- Are you looking
for his Rosebud?

619
00:36:14,631 --> 00:36:17,009
The one thing that
explains his whole life?

620
00:36:17,175 --> 00:36:18,343
You won't find one.

621
00:36:18,510 --> 00:36:20,012
Not with Halston.

622
00:36:20,178 --> 00:36:22,806
What you see is
what you get, baby.

623
00:36:25,726 --> 00:36:27,394
- Victor was Venezuelan,

624
00:36:27,561 --> 00:36:31,481
and he was a bad boy who
got into a lot of trouble.

625
00:36:33,191 --> 00:36:36,236
- My theory has
always been that

626
00:36:36,403 --> 00:36:39,281
Halston came from
an alcoholic family.

627
00:36:41,116 --> 00:36:43,911
That his father had a problem.

628
00:36:44,077 --> 00:36:47,873
And that Halston recreated
his family life with Victor

629
00:36:48,040 --> 00:36:50,375
as the dysfunctional person

630
00:36:50,542 --> 00:36:55,505
who is constantly going to
keep everything off balance.

631
00:37:24,201 --> 00:37:26,495
- He'd do the
pregnancy, Patty Hearst.

632
00:37:26,662 --> 00:37:27,871
I mean, really crazy.

633
00:37:28,038 --> 00:37:31,875
But this was his
personality, extreme.

634
00:37:58,986 --> 00:38:00,570
- Roy, I found
these pictures of us

635
00:38:00,737 --> 00:38:05,867
in my mom's attic.

636
00:38:10,956 --> 00:38:14,793
Darling H, you love
life and I love you.

637
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:18,255
- Ladies and
gentlemen, Liza Minnelli.

638
00:38:23,760 --> 00:38:25,137
- When I met Halston,

639
00:38:25,303 --> 00:38:27,639
I just remember him
talking and me listening.

640
00:38:29,558 --> 00:38:31,810
He'd say, "I got it, all
right," and just put it on you.

641
00:38:31,977 --> 00:38:34,062
And it danced with
you, that's it.

642
00:38:34,229 --> 00:38:36,773
His clothes danced with you.

643
00:38:38,358 --> 00:38:40,402
We were joined at
the hip from then on.

644
00:38:40,569 --> 00:38:41,778
He was like my dad, in a way,

645
00:38:41,945 --> 00:38:44,322
because when I
was a little girl,

646
00:38:44,489 --> 00:38:48,744
my father would give me
five costumes every year.

647
00:38:48,910 --> 00:38:53,081
And it was a dress from
An American In Paris.

648
00:38:53,248 --> 00:38:56,918
And perfectly made, exactly
like for the ladies.

649
00:38:58,003 --> 00:39:00,797
And I guess I got
into appreciating

650
00:39:01,882 --> 00:39:05,135
how clothes could
change the way you felt.

651
00:39:06,887 --> 00:39:08,930
- She dressed only
in Halston, ever.

652
00:39:09,097 --> 00:39:10,515
I mean, she still does.

653
00:39:10,682 --> 00:39:11,933
Yes.

654
00:39:12,100 --> 00:39:13,310
- Liza Minnelli.

655
00:39:15,812 --> 00:39:18,940
♪ Say yes ♪

656
00:39:19,107 --> 00:39:22,611
♪ Life keeps
happening every day ♪

657
00:39:22,778 --> 00:39:24,654
- And this is Halston,
who is, I think, today,

658
00:39:24,821 --> 00:39:26,281
wouldn't you say,
the best-known name,

659
00:39:26,448 --> 00:39:27,699
no, you shouldn't
say best and worst

660
00:39:27,866 --> 00:39:29,451
'cause then other
designers get upset.

661
00:39:29,618 --> 00:39:31,119
You're pretty good, Halston.
- Thank you.

662
00:39:32,871 --> 00:39:34,956
♪ You'll never win
if you never play ♪

663
00:39:35,123 --> 00:39:38,627
- He would always think, how
do I go to that next level?

664
00:39:38,794 --> 00:39:42,005
♪ There's mink and
marigold right outside ♪

665
00:39:42,172 --> 00:39:43,465
♪ And long white Cadillacs ♪

666
00:39:43,632 --> 00:39:45,383
- He was looking for
a perfume company.

667
00:39:45,550 --> 00:39:48,845
♪ Nothing's gained if
there's nothing tried ♪

668
00:39:49,012 --> 00:39:50,180
♪ Say yes ♪

669
00:39:50,347 --> 00:39:51,973
- Every single week,

670
00:39:52,140 --> 00:39:54,976
he was having meetings with
Revlon's Sol Levine, Coty.

671
00:39:55,143 --> 00:39:57,187
- A Mr. Bannon of IFF,

672
00:39:57,354 --> 00:40:00,107
he'd like to meet with
you today if possible.

673
00:40:00,273 --> 00:40:03,777
- And then
finally, Max Factor.

674
00:40:03,944 --> 00:40:07,280
And Max Factor was a
subsidiary of Norton Simon.

675
00:40:07,447 --> 00:40:11,535
♪ Say yes ♪

676
00:40:11,701 --> 00:40:13,078
♪ Yes, I can ♪

677
00:40:13,245 --> 00:40:15,872
- I remember Halston
saying to Andy and me,

678
00:40:16,039 --> 00:40:18,875
"You know, I really like
the Norton Simon people

679
00:40:19,042 --> 00:40:21,336
"because they're all so tall."

680
00:40:25,298 --> 00:40:28,135
David Mahoney was the
chairman of Norton Simon.

681
00:40:28,301 --> 00:40:30,595
And he was tall, good-looking,

682
00:40:30,762 --> 00:40:32,848
and you know, a lot of glamour.

683
00:40:33,014 --> 00:40:36,518
♪ There's lots of chaff,
but there's lots of wheat ♪

684
00:40:46,236 --> 00:40:49,156
♪ Say yes ♪

685
00:40:49,322 --> 00:40:50,949
- It seemed
like a good match.

686
00:40:51,116 --> 00:40:55,120
If he was bought in
total under Norton Simon,

687
00:40:55,287 --> 00:40:58,039
he'd have the freedom to
explore and to develop more

688
00:40:58,206 --> 00:41:00,041
of what Halston wanted.

689
00:41:00,208 --> 00:41:01,084
♪ Yes, I'll dare ♪

690
00:41:01,251 --> 00:41:03,920
♪ Yes, I'll fly ♪

691
00:41:14,222 --> 00:41:18,894
♪ Yes ♪

692
00:41:26,026 --> 00:41:28,445
- At the time, it
seemed like a huge coup.

693
00:41:28,612 --> 00:41:31,198
And all his friends, I mean,
including Andy and all of us,

694
00:41:31,364 --> 00:41:33,241
were very happy for him.

695
00:41:33,408 --> 00:41:37,370
- He told me, "Gino,
we're gonna be very busy

696
00:41:37,537 --> 00:41:41,833
"because I'm gonna design
furniture, car interiors.

697
00:41:42,000 --> 00:41:44,878
"I'm gonna design a carpet."

698
00:41:45,045 --> 00:41:46,963
- Well, don't you find that if
you take on that many things,

699
00:41:47,130 --> 00:41:49,216
that one of your projects
is going to suffer?

700
00:41:49,382 --> 00:41:50,926
- It's rather like
growing a tree.

701
00:41:51,092 --> 00:41:52,302
You know, everyone thinks
you're an overnight success.

702
00:41:52,469 --> 00:41:54,429
I've worked very
hard for 20 years.

703
00:41:54,596 --> 00:41:56,723
And, you know, it's just
a further extension of it,

704
00:41:56,890 --> 00:41:58,266
it's another branch.

705
00:41:58,433 --> 00:42:01,728
And they all help each
other, in a curious way.

706
00:42:03,855 --> 00:42:07,067
- Was this
the beginning of the end?

707
00:42:07,234 --> 00:42:08,944
Or was it just the beginning?

708
00:42:14,658 --> 00:42:18,078
- In 1973, five
American designers

709
00:42:18,245 --> 00:42:19,913
and five French designers

710
00:42:20,080 --> 00:42:23,792
were showing their collections
at one time, at one place,

711
00:42:23,959 --> 00:42:26,002
the Palace of Versailles.

712
00:42:28,463 --> 00:42:31,132
- American designers
had never been invited

713
00:42:31,299 --> 00:42:32,550
to show in Paris.

714
00:42:34,094 --> 00:42:36,471
And this was a huge, huge deal.

715
00:42:40,517 --> 00:42:41,851
- For Halston,
it was very important.

716
00:42:42,018 --> 00:42:44,312
He'd go as far as he
had to go to get it

717
00:42:44,479 --> 00:42:47,357
to be the best he
thought he could make it.

718
00:42:47,524 --> 00:42:50,860
- He realized that you
need a star in there.

719
00:42:52,529 --> 00:42:55,991
What happened was that
Halston got David Mahoney

720
00:42:56,157 --> 00:43:00,036
to sponsor the trip,
and David loved it.

721
00:43:00,203 --> 00:43:01,788
He fit right in there.

722
00:43:06,209 --> 00:43:07,752
- David Mahoney seemed to me

723
00:43:07,919 --> 00:43:10,297
to be fairly
ambitious socially.

724
00:43:10,463 --> 00:43:12,924
And like so many
self-made people,

725
00:43:13,091 --> 00:43:17,595
they wanted to be part of
this kinda cafe society.

726
00:43:22,642 --> 00:43:25,395
- It was a very
competitive evening.

727
00:43:28,023 --> 00:43:30,233
- I think the designers
were having difficulty

728
00:43:30,400 --> 00:43:32,193
with each other.

729
00:43:32,360 --> 00:43:35,488
The French took up all the
time for the rehearsal,

730
00:43:35,655 --> 00:43:37,574
and we were the addendums.

731
00:43:38,658 --> 00:43:40,243
It was rude, actually.

732
00:43:41,494 --> 00:43:44,873
- Their whole presentation
was beyond grand.

733
00:43:46,416 --> 00:43:47,751
They changed orchestras

734
00:43:47,917 --> 00:43:51,046
for each of the different
designer segments.

735
00:43:51,212 --> 00:43:52,756
- We couldn't rehearse.

736
00:43:52,922 --> 00:43:55,258
All of us were
waiting and waiting.

737
00:43:55,425 --> 00:43:57,427
It was cold, damp.

738
00:43:57,594 --> 00:44:00,722
Unfortunately with
Halston, it got to him.

739
00:44:00,889 --> 00:44:02,724
- A terrible fight
seems to break out.

740
00:44:02,891 --> 00:44:06,811
I heard some very
vicious things were said.

741
00:44:06,978 --> 00:44:09,856
- He did have a
blowup, very dramatic.

742
00:44:10,940 --> 00:44:13,610
- It was very difficult.

743
00:44:13,777 --> 00:44:15,445
Halston left, and
Liza said, you know,

744
00:44:15,612 --> 00:44:17,906
"We've got to get
this show done."

745
00:44:18,073 --> 00:44:20,367
- She's the one
who sat down with Halston.

746
00:44:20,533 --> 00:44:22,202
She unified everybody.

747
00:44:23,995 --> 00:44:27,082
- We'd open, and I'd
sing Bonjour Paris.

748
00:44:28,249 --> 00:44:31,461
♪ I wanna step out down
the Champs-Elysee ♪

749
00:44:31,628 --> 00:44:34,798
♪ From the Arch of Triumph
to the Petit Palais ♪

750
00:44:34,964 --> 00:44:37,425
♪ That's for me ♪

751
00:44:37,592 --> 00:44:40,678
♪ Bonjour, Paris ♪
- Bonjour, Paris!

752
00:44:40,845 --> 00:44:41,930
So.

753
00:44:45,058 --> 00:44:46,434
Let's get started.

754
00:44:46,601 --> 00:44:47,769
And we were off.

755
00:44:51,856 --> 00:44:53,817
- It was
directed like a musical.

756
00:44:53,983 --> 00:44:57,237
- Liza said, "Look, it
doesn't wanna look rehearsed.

757
00:44:57,404 --> 00:45:00,323
"The more human,
the more goofed up,

758
00:45:00,490 --> 00:45:03,118
"that's gonna
make this happen."

759
00:45:04,577 --> 00:45:06,996
- We were so wild,
in comparison.

760
00:45:07,163 --> 00:45:10,208
We had 12
African-American girls.

761
00:45:10,375 --> 00:45:11,668
They only had one.

762
00:45:16,381 --> 00:45:20,718
- No sets, it was just
straightforward fashion,

763
00:45:20,885 --> 00:45:24,973
in your face, and modern.

764
00:45:29,978 --> 00:45:33,398
- All of that energy and
that joy and that wonder

765
00:45:33,565 --> 00:45:35,275
and that curiosity.

766
00:45:35,442 --> 00:45:36,734
Well, that is America.

767
00:45:39,571 --> 00:45:41,823
At the end of Halston's piece,

768
00:45:43,241 --> 00:45:46,202
they threw their
programs up in the air.

769
00:45:46,369 --> 00:45:47,620
They went bananas.

770
00:45:48,997 --> 00:45:52,584
- Versailles put American
fashion on the map.

771
00:45:52,750 --> 00:45:53,501
On the map.

772
00:45:55,211 --> 00:45:58,131
- Halston was at
the top of his game.

773
00:45:58,298 --> 00:46:01,384
He came like a king
of the Americans.

774
00:46:01,551 --> 00:46:04,012
- Versailles was an extension

775
00:46:04,179 --> 00:46:07,182
of what he felt he could
achieve going down the road

776
00:46:07,348 --> 00:46:09,184
because of Norton Simon.

777
00:46:11,519 --> 00:46:14,105
When he came back, the
whole thing changed.

778
00:46:14,272 --> 00:46:16,774
His first real
office by himself

779
00:46:16,941 --> 00:46:20,278
was all lined with
mirrors, all along.

780
00:46:20,445 --> 00:46:22,864
It was like, totally mirrored.

781
00:46:23,031 --> 00:46:26,201
Very modern and very
slick and minimal.

782
00:46:26,367 --> 00:46:30,371
You can see his changing
of his whole almost psyche.

783
00:46:32,332 --> 00:46:35,460
The hair started getting
cut less bohemian,

784
00:46:35,627 --> 00:46:38,213
more crisp and clean,
opened his face.

785
00:46:38,379 --> 00:46:40,256
The white shirt, the tie.

786
00:46:41,591 --> 00:46:42,926
He's very in control.

787
00:46:43,092 --> 00:46:45,011
He's very, he is Halston.

788
00:46:46,387 --> 00:46:48,097
He is Halston, you know?

789
00:46:48,264 --> 00:46:49,807
And it was like, wow!

790
00:46:57,982 --> 00:47:00,485
- I'm Halston, and
this is my home.

791
00:47:02,779 --> 00:47:05,073
The architect was Paul Rudolph.

792
00:47:05,240 --> 00:47:07,992
And the day I saw
it, I bought it.

793
00:47:08,159 --> 00:47:09,869
It's the only real modern house

794
00:47:10,036 --> 00:47:12,539
built in the City of New York
since the Second World War.

795
00:47:12,705 --> 00:47:15,458
It's like living in a
three-dimensional sculpture.

796
00:47:15,625 --> 00:47:18,169
- When I was hired
by Norton Simon,

797
00:47:18,336 --> 00:47:20,088
of course I had
to meet Halston.

798
00:47:20,255 --> 00:47:22,882
So I went to his townhouse.

799
00:47:23,049 --> 00:47:24,759
And he showed me
through the whole thing,

800
00:47:24,926 --> 00:47:27,345
and he was clearly
delighted with his new toy.

801
00:47:27,512 --> 00:47:29,305
And I was terribly impressed.

802
00:47:29,472 --> 00:47:30,932
And I remember saying to him,

803
00:47:31,099 --> 00:47:32,892
I'm gonna enjoy making
money for you, Halston,

804
00:47:33,059 --> 00:47:35,478
'cause you know
how to spend it.

805
00:47:36,896 --> 00:47:39,148
My brief was that,
whatever else you do,

806
00:47:39,315 --> 00:47:42,777
you've got to get the
fragrance underway.

807
00:47:42,944 --> 00:47:45,947
He wanted Elsa to
design the bottle.

808
00:47:46,114 --> 00:47:47,532
- Elsa Peretti would come in.

809
00:47:47,699 --> 00:47:50,493
He wanted it to be sort
of a teardrop shape,

810
00:47:50,660 --> 00:47:53,204
like her iconic necklaces.

811
00:47:53,371 --> 00:47:57,333
And they went through
a number of iterations.

812
00:47:57,500 --> 00:48:00,420
- I design not thinking
about the deadline.

813
00:48:00,587 --> 00:48:03,798
You know how much time it
take me to do this glass?

814
00:48:03,965 --> 00:48:05,466
- - No.

815
00:48:05,633 --> 00:48:07,176
- From '74 up to now.

816
00:48:08,469 --> 00:48:10,513
And they're still not good.

817
00:48:13,808 --> 00:48:16,477
- No one had
ever seen a bottle like that.

818
00:48:16,644 --> 00:48:18,354
It had a curved neck.

819
00:48:18,521 --> 00:48:20,106
Max Factor people hated it.

820
00:48:20,273 --> 00:48:21,691
- Production people at Max
Factor called me and said,

821
00:48:21,858 --> 00:48:24,527
"You know what this
nut is doing now?

822
00:48:24,694 --> 00:48:27,155
"He's putting out a bottle
that looks like a glob.

823
00:48:27,322 --> 00:48:29,157
"You can't fill
it from the top.

824
00:48:29,324 --> 00:48:31,451
"It won't work."

825
00:48:31,618 --> 00:48:33,244
- They had
to get a special stopper.

826
00:48:33,411 --> 00:48:35,330
They were talking about
the economics of it.

827
00:48:35,496 --> 00:48:36,998
- I don't think
Halston really cared

828
00:48:37,165 --> 00:48:38,499
what they thought.

829
00:48:43,004 --> 00:48:44,756
- It is my name attached to it,

830
00:48:44,922 --> 00:48:47,008
so I want to live with
this for a long time.

831
00:48:47,175 --> 00:48:51,054
Just the bottle alone is a
revolutionary new concept.

832
00:48:51,220 --> 00:48:52,639
- Then I got
another phone call.

833
00:48:52,805 --> 00:48:54,432
It said, "You also
realize what he's doing?

834
00:48:54,599 --> 00:48:58,269
"He's not even putting
his name on it."

835
00:48:58,436 --> 00:49:00,313
- Because he thought
it was a work of art.

836
00:49:00,480 --> 00:49:03,733
And simplicity was the keynote.

837
00:49:03,900 --> 00:49:05,109
So his name was on the ribbon

838
00:49:05,276 --> 00:49:07,153
with which the bottle
itself was tied.

839
00:49:07,320 --> 00:49:11,115
No one else had done
it that way before.

840
00:49:11,282 --> 00:49:13,743
And then the
fragrance caught on.

841
00:49:14,827 --> 00:49:16,454
It became a seller.

842
00:49:18,790 --> 00:49:21,793
The largest American
designer fragrance.

843
00:49:21,959 --> 00:49:24,045
The stores couldn't
get it fast enough.

844
00:49:24,212 --> 00:49:25,380
It was ballistic.

845
00:49:25,546 --> 00:49:26,964
- You'd get into a
taxi in New York,

846
00:49:27,131 --> 00:49:28,466
and the taxi driver would say,

847
00:49:28,633 --> 00:49:31,886
"Oh, you smell good,
you're wearing Halston."

848
00:49:34,305 --> 00:49:38,059
Once it started to go,
everything started to go.

849
00:49:40,395 --> 00:49:43,022
- I began a
very large license program.

850
00:49:43,189 --> 00:49:45,108
We were the first
American designer

851
00:49:45,274 --> 00:49:48,486
to really do this heavy.

852
00:49:48,653 --> 00:49:52,115
- I have two fragrances
for men, a tie licensee,

853
00:49:52,281 --> 00:49:53,616
two suede sport jackets.

854
00:49:53,783 --> 00:49:56,911
We have an entire
cosmetic line.

855
00:49:57,078 --> 00:49:58,162
My name is Halston.

856
00:49:58,329 --> 00:49:59,706
I'm Halston.

857
00:49:59,872 --> 00:50:01,249
- You've got
luggage, you've got--

858
00:50:01,416 --> 00:50:03,000
- Rugs, sheets,
perfume, cosmetics.

859
00:50:03,167 --> 00:50:04,377
- Really?

860
00:50:04,544 --> 00:50:05,336
- Shoes, bags,
gloves, sunglasses,

861
00:50:05,503 --> 00:50:07,171
all kinds of things.

862
00:50:07,338 --> 00:50:08,673
- Holy cow, you wouldn't have
20 till payday, would you?

863
00:50:08,840 --> 00:50:11,092
I'm a little short.

864
00:50:11,259 --> 00:50:13,469
- The United
States of America.

865
00:50:13,636 --> 00:50:17,598
- He designed the
uniform for the '76 Olympics.

866
00:50:17,765 --> 00:50:19,851
- He designed the new Girl
Scout Uniform for leaders,

867
00:50:20,017 --> 00:50:22,395
so we don't have to wear the
drab-looking things we used to.

868
00:50:22,562 --> 00:50:23,646
Thank you.
- Thank you very much,

869
00:50:23,813 --> 00:50:26,274
you know.

870
00:50:26,441 --> 00:50:27,942
- And you
also dressed the Avis--

871
00:50:28,109 --> 00:50:30,069
- Well, the whole Avis Company.

872
00:50:30,236 --> 00:50:31,195
No, I do a lot of
things like that.

873
00:50:31,362 --> 00:50:32,739
- When do you sleep?

874
00:50:32,905 --> 00:50:34,407
Oh, well, I sleep.

875
00:50:34,574 --> 00:50:36,117
- I would call that
the golden years.

876
00:50:36,284 --> 00:50:38,786
What he touched turned to gold.

877
00:50:40,246 --> 00:50:43,875
He set up the deal for
Elsa to go with Tiffany.

878
00:50:44,041 --> 00:50:48,337
- Halston took me there, and
there I was, with Tiffany.

879
00:50:48,504 --> 00:50:50,465
- That's it,
that's it, that's all, please.

880
00:50:50,631 --> 00:50:51,591
- He made
the wedding clothes

881
00:50:51,758 --> 00:50:53,468
for Sly and the Family Stone.

882
00:50:55,178 --> 00:50:56,304
- He designed

883
00:50:56,471 --> 00:50:57,972
all the costumes
for Martha Graham,

884
00:50:58,139 --> 00:51:00,308
and then supported the company.

885
00:51:03,060 --> 00:51:05,605
- He had a lot of
things on his plate.

886
00:51:05,772 --> 00:51:10,318
And I have a feeling that
is where some of the tension

887
00:51:10,485 --> 00:51:11,819
started to happen.

888
00:51:14,447 --> 00:51:16,449
- Halston
felt that he, individually,

889
00:51:16,616 --> 00:51:18,910
had to design everything
that was licensed,

890
00:51:19,076 --> 00:51:21,412
and that was a monumental task.

891
00:51:23,456 --> 00:51:24,999
- I must be a part of it.

892
00:51:25,166 --> 00:51:27,794
I never, ever just lent my name

893
00:51:27,960 --> 00:51:30,546
for a commercial
business venture.

894
00:51:32,507 --> 00:51:35,510
- From the first
day I got there,

895
00:51:35,676 --> 00:51:38,763
one of the things that I
did every couple of weeks

896
00:51:38,930 --> 00:51:42,141
was go to the bank and
take out a ton of cash

897
00:51:42,308 --> 00:51:45,394
and bring it back
in an envelope.

898
00:51:45,561 --> 00:51:47,188
He'd say, "I might
be in a meeting,

899
00:51:47,355 --> 00:51:50,942
but if Mr. Fisher comes,

900
00:51:51,108 --> 00:51:53,319
"just give him the envelope."

901
00:51:56,364 --> 00:51:59,575
I never saw him snort
cocaine, but I paid,

902
00:52:01,410 --> 00:52:04,664
I mean, I got a lot of
money every few weeks.

903
00:52:04,831 --> 00:52:06,040
$2,000 to $3,000.

904
00:52:07,291 --> 00:52:09,252
- I want to stop all
the kind of bullshit

905
00:52:09,418 --> 00:52:10,753
that we were drug addicts.

906
00:52:10,920 --> 00:52:13,214
We'd smoke, yeah, but we work.

907
00:52:14,549 --> 00:52:17,051
For that our things were going.

908
00:52:17,218 --> 00:52:18,845
For that Halston thing.

909
00:52:19,011 --> 00:52:20,179
What do you think,
with Halston,

910
00:52:20,346 --> 00:52:22,390
we were
there and smoking?

911
00:52:22,557 --> 00:52:26,352
No, we were thinking,
what you wear, what you do

912
00:52:26,519 --> 00:52:28,271
all night long.

913
00:52:28,437 --> 00:52:31,148
I was working all night long.

914
00:52:31,315 --> 00:52:35,069
Yeah, we took drugs
of course.

915
00:52:35,236 --> 00:52:39,657
How you cannot take drugs,
being up all night long?

916
00:52:39,824 --> 00:52:41,367
But it was smoking.

917
00:52:41,534 --> 00:52:44,036
It was not heavy drugs.

918
00:52:44,203 --> 00:52:45,955
A little coke sometimes.

919
00:52:47,957 --> 00:52:49,542
- Halston took me
into his office one day,

920
00:52:49,709 --> 00:52:50,835
and he just said,
"You know,

921
00:52:51,002 --> 00:52:52,336
I want somebody
who is completely

922
00:52:52,503 --> 00:52:54,380
committed to the business."

923
00:52:58,551 --> 00:53:01,137
- I went to work for Halston.

924
00:53:01,304 --> 00:53:03,180
The best thing I ever did.

925
00:53:04,557 --> 00:53:07,560
I was totally, 1,000 %
devoted to him.

926
00:53:07,727 --> 00:53:10,521
I remember going in
to set up my office.

927
00:53:10,688 --> 00:53:12,023
It would start to rain.

928
00:53:12,189 --> 00:53:13,858
And when I got off
the elevator,

929
00:53:14,025 --> 00:53:15,568
Halston was standing there.

930
00:53:15,735 --> 00:53:19,447
He looked at me, and he
said, "You're all wet."

931
00:53:19,614 --> 00:53:22,491
He was carrying a red
raincoat, and he said,

932
00:53:22,658 --> 00:53:24,201
"I want you to try this on.

933
00:53:24,368 --> 00:53:26,746
"I made this for Liza, but
I want you to have it."

934
00:53:31,292 --> 00:53:33,127
He was such a hard worker.

935
00:53:33,294 --> 00:53:35,087
I mean, he'd come in
early, go home late,

936
00:53:35,254 --> 00:53:37,757
and always
accomplish something.

937
00:53:37,924 --> 00:53:39,133
Until Studio 54.

938
00:53:41,469 --> 00:53:44,138
♪ Dance ♪

939
00:53:44,305 --> 00:53:45,848
♪ Just a feeling ♪

940
00:53:46,015 --> 00:53:50,436
♪ Dance ♪
♪ Just a feeling ♪

941
00:53:55,066 --> 00:53:57,652
♪ Just a feeling ♪

942
00:54:00,488 --> 00:54:02,740
- I took Halston to Studio 54.

943
00:54:02,907 --> 00:54:04,909
So I don't know what
other stories you heard,

944
00:54:05,076 --> 00:54:07,203
but I remember that was the
first time, and he says,

945
00:54:07,370 --> 00:54:09,330
"I'm gonna bring friends."

946
00:54:14,001 --> 00:54:17,672
- Halston gave a birthday
party for Bianca Jagger,

947
00:54:17,838 --> 00:54:19,215
and Bianca got on the horse,

948
00:54:19,382 --> 00:54:22,718
and that photograph
went around the world.

949
00:54:22,885 --> 00:54:27,139
And that made 54 like the
place where everybody went.

950
00:54:31,477 --> 00:54:33,479
- You're a
devotee of Studio 54.

951
00:54:33,646 --> 00:54:35,022
What do you see there?

952
00:54:35,189 --> 00:54:36,732
- As Truman said, it's
the only democracy.

953
00:54:36,899 --> 00:54:40,152
It's good for everybody
on every level of society.

954
00:54:40,319 --> 00:54:41,696
- This is the scene

955
00:54:41,862 --> 00:54:44,156
outside a New York
disco called Studio 54.

956
00:54:44,323 --> 00:54:47,284
This is the place that's
in with the disco crowd,

957
00:54:47,451 --> 00:54:51,372
except that these
people are still out.

958
00:54:51,539 --> 00:54:53,165
Of course, Liza Minnelli
and her kind of celebrities

959
00:54:53,332 --> 00:54:54,875
sweep right through
the protective ranks

960
00:54:55,042 --> 00:54:58,295
of doorkeepers.

961
00:54:58,462 --> 00:55:00,548
- They are discriminating
at Studio 54.

962
00:55:00,715 --> 00:55:03,217
Recently, a president of a
Wall Street brokerage firm

963
00:55:03,384 --> 00:55:05,261
was ejected, and
he was a member.

964
00:55:05,428 --> 00:55:08,264
So he's suing for a million.

965
00:55:08,431 --> 00:55:09,557
- I'll do a Donna Summer song.

966
00:55:09,724 --> 00:55:11,225
Ah.

967
00:55:16,981 --> 00:55:19,775
- I think they lived
out a lot of their fantasies.

968
00:55:19,942 --> 00:55:22,611
As gay boys, Hollywood
was such a big influence

969
00:55:22,778 --> 00:55:25,156
on both Andy and Halston.

970
00:55:25,322 --> 00:55:26,824
- I was born in the Midwest.

971
00:55:26,991 --> 00:55:30,411
And, you know, much of your
life was really probably

972
00:55:30,578 --> 00:55:35,541
involved in going to the movies
on Saturdays and Sundays.

973
00:55:35,708 --> 00:55:37,043
- If you
were at a dinner party

974
00:55:37,209 --> 00:55:38,544
and you could have
one person on the left

975
00:55:38,711 --> 00:55:40,379
and one on the right,
who would that be?

976
00:55:40,546 --> 00:55:41,839
- Halston and Elizabeth Taylor.

977
00:55:42,006 --> 00:55:42,965
- Why?

978
00:55:43,132 --> 00:55:45,718
- Oh, they're both wonderful.

979
00:55:45,885 --> 00:55:47,094
- They weren't society,

980
00:55:47,261 --> 00:55:49,638
but they became a
new kind of society.

981
00:55:52,016 --> 00:55:54,435
Suddenly, you know, gays
were part of society.

982
00:55:54,602 --> 00:55:57,271
Many more Jews were
part of society.

983
00:56:00,399 --> 00:56:02,109
- He wasn't a snob.

984
00:56:02,276 --> 00:56:03,903
Halston wasn't a snob.

985
00:56:04,070 --> 00:56:05,780
He wasn't uppity.

986
00:56:05,946 --> 00:56:07,281
He wasn't anything.

987
00:56:07,448 --> 00:56:09,075
- Both you and Halston
come from Indiana.

988
00:56:09,241 --> 00:56:11,452
You sound like Cary Grant,
you sound like Noel Coward.

989
00:56:13,454 --> 00:56:15,039
You moved the accent.

990
00:56:15,206 --> 00:56:16,582
Were you unhappy at some point
with where you came from,

991
00:56:16,749 --> 00:56:18,584
and decided, I'm
going to show them?

992
00:56:18,751 --> 00:56:20,086
- Never.

993
00:56:20,252 --> 00:56:21,420
Never.

994
00:56:21,587 --> 00:56:22,797
I wasn't, anyway.

995
00:56:26,383 --> 00:56:29,345
- Well, everybody was
free love, and free this,

996
00:56:29,512 --> 00:56:33,140
and poppers and coke
and this and that.

997
00:56:38,187 --> 00:56:42,233
It got very muddy, and
it's like quicksand.

998
00:56:43,609 --> 00:56:46,779
If everybody around
you is going down,

999
00:56:46,946 --> 00:56:48,864
you're gonna go too.

1000
00:56:52,743 --> 00:56:55,496
- Victor was a
destructive force.

1001
00:56:55,663 --> 00:56:58,374
Andy did Victor's portraits,
I think he did two.

1002
00:56:58,541 --> 00:57:00,292
And one day, Victor shows up

1003
00:57:00,459 --> 00:57:02,837
with the paintings completely
covered with graffiti,

1004
00:57:03,003 --> 00:57:04,171
and just a mess.

1005
00:57:06,507 --> 00:57:09,051
And he had painted over them,

1006
00:57:09,218 --> 00:57:13,514
thinking this was like taking
Andy's art to another level.

1007
00:57:13,681 --> 00:57:15,307
And Andy was really mad.

1008
00:57:15,474 --> 00:57:16,809
And Andy was like,

1009
00:57:16,976 --> 00:57:18,519
"Don't think I'm doing
new ones, Victor."

1010
00:57:36,036 --> 00:57:40,833
- Company was booming, so I
went out looking for space.

1011
00:57:41,000 --> 00:57:44,753
And I came upon this
thing in Olympic Tower,

1012
00:57:44,920 --> 00:57:46,463
and that was the
end of the search,

1013
00:57:46,630 --> 00:57:51,010
because Halston, "That's
the one we're gonna get."

1014
00:57:51,177 --> 00:57:52,636
The architect came
up with some plans,

1015
00:57:52,803 --> 00:57:54,555
and Halston didn't like them.

1016
00:57:54,722 --> 00:57:58,017
He wanted something that took
spectacular use of the space.

1017
00:57:58,184 --> 00:58:01,562
And he began to
design what he wanted.

1018
00:58:17,578 --> 00:58:19,413
Mirrors everywhere.

1019
00:58:19,580 --> 00:58:20,623
The walls were mirrors.

1020
00:58:20,789 --> 00:58:23,334
Everything was mirrors.

1021
00:58:23,500 --> 00:58:25,002
Except my office.

1022
00:58:25,169 --> 00:58:26,921
I wouldn't allow them to
put up mirrors in my office.

1023
00:58:27,087 --> 00:58:28,964
I didn't wanna look
at myself all day.

1024
00:58:32,218 --> 00:58:35,596
- Halston made sure
that his entire workroom

1025
00:58:35,763 --> 00:58:38,849
were in a room with
a lot of windows,

1026
00:58:39,016 --> 00:58:42,519
so that as they sewed
and fitted every day,

1027
00:58:42,686 --> 00:58:44,813
they didn't feel confined.

1028
00:58:44,980 --> 00:58:47,066
That really impressed me.

1029
00:58:47,233 --> 00:58:51,070
- When the workmen saw
the space, the women wept.

1030
00:58:52,529 --> 00:58:55,032
- That was the best
workroom in the world.

1031
00:58:55,199 --> 00:58:57,743
Was even too good
to be a workroom.

1032
00:59:13,634 --> 00:59:16,762
- There wasn't, at the time,
I don't think there is today,

1033
00:59:16,929 --> 00:59:20,808
a fashion house ever
as grand as that was.

1034
00:59:35,281 --> 00:59:36,907
- In that space,

1035
00:59:37,074 --> 00:59:39,785
he had reached something
very specific to him.

1036
00:59:39,952 --> 00:59:42,288
That's where he
felt he belonged.

1037
00:59:42,454 --> 00:59:44,498
♪ I'm in with the in crowd ♪

1038
00:59:44,665 --> 00:59:47,001
- The shows there were amazing.

1039
00:59:47,167 --> 00:59:49,878
You felt like walking on
a cloud down the runway.

1040
00:59:50,045 --> 00:59:52,965
♪ I'm in with the in crowd ♪

1041
00:59:53,132 --> 00:59:55,592
- Once he moved into
the Olympic Tower,

1042
00:59:55,759 --> 00:59:58,595
his front row was the most
glamorous in New York.

1043
00:59:58,762 --> 01:00:01,724
Diana Vreeland, Lee
Radziwill, Liza Minnelli.

1044
01:00:03,726 --> 01:00:06,478
- He was the first to
really bring in movie stars.

1045
01:00:10,065 --> 01:00:11,275
- They are the elite
of New York City,

1046
01:00:11,442 --> 01:00:13,152
and they've been
invited by Halston,

1047
01:00:13,319 --> 01:00:15,487
who's standing here beside me.

1048
01:00:17,156 --> 01:00:18,198
- I always
saw him as famous.

1049
01:00:18,365 --> 01:00:20,075
- I made it in New York.

1050
01:00:20,242 --> 01:00:23,704
- But then, of course,
it became ginormous.

1051
01:00:25,331 --> 01:00:26,749
- And what he did was

1052
01:00:26,915 --> 01:00:28,292
he surrounded himself
for public appearances

1053
01:00:28,459 --> 01:00:30,919
with what became known
as the Halstonettes.

1054
01:00:31,086 --> 01:00:33,255
♪ I go where the
in crowd goes ♪

1055
01:00:33,422 --> 01:00:35,424
- Brilliant
marketing, brilliant.

1056
01:00:38,302 --> 01:00:41,555
- Sometimes there were
20 of us, you know?

1057
01:00:43,265 --> 01:00:44,808
- Some of the people I
knew in the fashion business,

1058
01:00:44,975 --> 01:00:46,060
I mean, they were
totally dismissive.

1059
01:00:46,226 --> 01:00:47,686
I mean, who does
he think he is?

1060
01:00:47,853 --> 01:00:49,563
And the answer is, what
picture is gonna run?

1061
01:00:49,730 --> 01:00:51,315
Is it gonna be some fashion
designer standing by himself?

1062
01:00:51,482 --> 01:00:55,319
Or is it gonna be Halston
with the Halstonettes?

1063
01:00:55,486 --> 01:01:00,074
♪ They know the in
crowd is out of sight ♪

1064
01:01:02,493 --> 01:01:03,535
- I want to
run the faces of all

1065
01:01:03,702 --> 01:01:05,245
the women close-up.

1066
01:01:05,412 --> 01:01:06,121
- Right.

1067
01:01:06,288 --> 01:01:08,082
- We've done that.

1068
01:01:08,248 --> 01:01:09,583
Okay, where are the--

1069
01:01:09,750 --> 01:01:10,542
- John
Fairchild is the publisher

1070
01:01:10,709 --> 01:01:12,169
of Women's Wear.

1071
01:01:12,336 --> 01:01:14,088
As always, he has
the final word

1072
01:01:14,254 --> 01:01:17,925
on how last night's party
will look in the next edition.

1073
01:01:18,092 --> 01:01:21,053
Women's Wear is the
bible of the industry.

1074
01:01:21,220 --> 01:01:22,471
- Halston, if they
stand on the table,

1075
01:01:22,638 --> 01:01:25,015
will it hurt the table?

1076
01:01:25,182 --> 01:01:26,433
- It would, 'cause I
just had 'em lacquered.

1077
01:01:26,600 --> 01:01:28,143
- No, no, no.

1078
01:01:28,310 --> 01:01:29,520
Can they stand on the
table with their bare feet?

1079
01:01:29,686 --> 01:01:31,647
- Whatever
makes you happy.

1080
01:01:31,814 --> 01:01:32,856
Assistants.

1081
01:01:33,023 --> 01:01:34,441
- Yes?

1082
01:01:34,608 --> 01:01:36,860
- Boy, what
a shot that is, whoa.

1083
01:01:37,027 --> 01:01:38,779
- Leave the candles.

1084
01:01:59,758 --> 01:02:01,760
- Everybody at the
Olympic Tower called him H.

1085
01:02:01,927 --> 01:02:02,928
And they'd say, "H?"

1086
01:02:03,095 --> 01:02:05,389
And he'd say, "I
am the emperor."

1087
01:02:06,473 --> 01:02:09,977
And he was believing
this stuff.

1088
01:02:10,144 --> 01:02:11,603
- Halston, is
it tougher to get on top,

1089
01:02:11,770 --> 01:02:13,063
or to stay on top?

1090
01:02:14,982 --> 01:02:17,151
- Halston said, "Let me tell
you, we're going to China."

1091
01:02:17,317 --> 01:02:18,152
I'm like, wow.

1092
01:02:20,612 --> 01:02:21,738
- China
wanted to show the world

1093
01:02:21,905 --> 01:02:23,907
that they were opening up.

1094
01:02:24,074 --> 01:02:26,493
So they invited the
master of publicity

1095
01:02:26,660 --> 01:02:28,537
to visit the silk cities.

1096
01:02:31,331 --> 01:02:32,875
- Come on, D.D.,
come on, everybody.

1097
01:02:33,041 --> 01:02:36,503
What I want to explain to
you all is what we're doing.

1098
01:02:36,670 --> 01:02:41,383
- With the China trip, you
could see the brain working.

1099
01:02:41,550 --> 01:02:46,054
Each girl had their own
personal collection designed.

1100
01:02:46,221 --> 01:02:48,307
Everything, all laid out.

1101
01:02:48,474 --> 01:02:51,351
- We just needed to pack
our lingerie and makeup.

1102
01:02:51,518 --> 01:02:53,312
- We will also go
to the Ming tombs,

1103
01:02:53,479 --> 01:02:55,647
and we'll go to
the Forbidden City.

1104
01:02:55,814 --> 01:02:57,691
And one of the best places
is going to be, of course,

1105
01:02:57,858 --> 01:03:00,027
the Great Wall of China.

1106
01:03:00,194 --> 01:03:02,988
- Every affair, you know,
dinner here, dinner there.

1107
01:03:03,155 --> 01:03:04,656
Everything was choreographed.

1108
01:03:04,823 --> 01:03:06,241
It was just incredible.

1109
01:03:06,408 --> 01:03:08,660
- If it's a cold day,
she'll wear, you know,

1110
01:03:08,827 --> 01:03:11,580
sort of a shawl like this,
but this is a Chinatex silk.

1111
01:03:11,747 --> 01:03:13,707
- He just
had total control.

1112
01:03:13,874 --> 01:03:15,167
- Hi, Andy.
- Hi, Andy.

1113
01:03:15,334 --> 01:03:16,585
- Come on in

1114
01:03:16,752 --> 01:03:18,462
and get photographed,
Andy.

1115
01:03:18,629 --> 01:03:22,716
- He asked me one day, "Do you
dream of what you're doing?"

1116
01:03:22,883 --> 01:03:25,886
And, obviously, I was exhausted
from going to Studio 54

1117
01:03:26,053 --> 01:03:27,471
and all those parties,
and I was like,

1118
01:03:27,638 --> 01:03:29,014
no, I haven't dreamt of it.

1119
01:03:29,181 --> 01:03:31,725
He's like, "You know,
Naeem, it'll be amazing.

1120
01:03:31,892 --> 01:03:33,936
"You'll be a great designer
when you start dreaming.

1121
01:03:34,102 --> 01:03:35,729
"It should come to
you in the night,

1122
01:03:35,896 --> 01:03:37,940
"then you know that you
are thinking about it."

1123
01:03:38,106 --> 01:03:41,527
- Naeem, why don't you show
Andy, put the lights on,

1124
01:03:41,693 --> 01:03:43,570
and make 'em sparkle
over there, huh?

1125
01:03:43,737 --> 01:03:45,405
Those are your things.

1126
01:03:45,572 --> 01:03:49,993
- So to him, night
and day, it was there.

1127
01:03:50,160 --> 01:03:52,079
- You see, this is
only part of them.

1128
01:03:52,246 --> 01:03:54,790
We've got another about
15 people, 'cause all--

1129
01:03:54,957 --> 01:03:56,416
- There must have
been about 30 people.

1130
01:03:56,583 --> 01:03:58,210
And I was coordinating it.

1131
01:03:58,377 --> 01:04:01,463
There was 100 pieces
of Hartmann luggage.

1132
01:04:03,799 --> 01:04:04,841
- We were going to China.

1133
01:04:05,008 --> 01:04:06,677
Who got invited to China?

1134
01:04:15,852 --> 01:04:17,521
- I said to a
Chinese executive,

1135
01:04:17,688 --> 01:04:19,231
we're coming with
a lot of luggage.

1136
01:04:19,398 --> 01:04:20,148
Do you have a way
of handling it?

1137
01:04:20,315 --> 01:04:21,316
He said, "Oh, yes, yes."

1138
01:04:21,483 --> 01:04:24,027
And he came with
a shopping cart.

1139
01:04:24,194 --> 01:04:28,824
They had one shopping cart to
move our luggage.

1140
01:04:33,453 --> 01:04:35,455
- This is the beginning of
the world tour of fashions

1141
01:04:35,622 --> 01:04:36,999
by Halston.

1142
01:04:37,165 --> 01:04:37,791
- I think
there's a big change.

1143
01:04:37,958 --> 01:04:39,376
- Why?

1144
01:04:39,543 --> 01:04:42,087
- Well, I think it's
America's time, really.

1145
01:04:46,133 --> 01:04:47,509
- Here he is,

1146
01:04:47,676 --> 01:04:50,095
sort of an ambassador
of American fashion.

1147
01:04:50,262 --> 01:04:53,223
He became somewhat
like a world figure.

1148
01:05:14,995 --> 01:05:19,458
- But we were basically there
to go to the silk factories.

1149
01:05:19,625 --> 01:05:23,295
- Those people who
had done the fabrics

1150
01:05:23,462 --> 01:05:26,548
actually got to see how you
could play with the fabric.

1151
01:05:26,715 --> 01:05:29,885
So they were just,
like, in awe.

1152
01:05:30,052 --> 01:05:31,511
It was wonderful.

1153
01:05:31,678 --> 01:05:34,681
I was in awe of them
being in awe of us.

1154
01:05:35,974 --> 01:05:37,100
That's great.

1155
01:05:37,267 --> 01:05:39,645
That's great, I
love that on you.

1156
01:05:39,811 --> 01:05:41,104
I love that on you.

1157
01:05:41,271 --> 01:05:42,439
- It might
be a little tight,

1158
01:05:42,606 --> 01:05:44,983
but I consider it
a great compliment

1159
01:05:45,150 --> 01:05:47,527
that she wanted to put it on.

1160
01:05:47,694 --> 01:05:49,488
- Halston was saying,
"No, they wanna modernize.

1161
01:05:49,655 --> 01:05:51,073
"They wanna modernize here."

1162
01:05:51,239 --> 01:05:53,241
- Is it that complicated
to change the patterns?

1163
01:05:53,408 --> 01:05:55,869
- I think that made
the trip for Halston.

1164
01:05:56,036 --> 01:05:58,997
Because I think he thought
he could contribute something

1165
01:05:59,164 --> 01:06:03,710
to the people of China.

1166
01:06:04,503 --> 01:06:05,879
- That was really PR.

1167
01:06:06,046 --> 01:06:08,465
And he got tremendous
amount of publicity.

1168
01:06:08,632 --> 01:06:10,175
He was all over.

1169
01:06:10,342 --> 01:06:12,135
And when you see the
pictures, they were beautiful.

1170
01:06:12,302 --> 01:06:14,554
I mean, they looked fantastic.

1171
01:06:14,721 --> 01:06:17,224
You know, if you didn't know
the back side of the story,

1172
01:06:17,391 --> 01:06:20,394
it looked like a
fantastic trip.

1173
01:06:20,560 --> 01:06:22,854
Halston and the group here,
Halston and the group there.

1174
01:06:23,021 --> 01:06:24,439
They all looked great.

1175
01:06:24,606 --> 01:06:26,274
You know, half of them
are really miserable,

1176
01:06:26,441 --> 01:06:29,236
but they all looked
terrific.

1177
01:06:46,086 --> 01:06:47,379
- Oh, I'm staying.

1178
01:06:47,546 --> 01:06:49,548
It's exhausting, and
I'm just starting.

1179
01:06:49,715 --> 01:06:53,218
- We had a film crew
following us the whole time.

1180
01:06:56,179 --> 01:06:59,558
- Every day was
directed by Halston.

1181
01:07:00,642 --> 01:07:02,060
- Get out of the camera way.

1182
01:07:02,227 --> 01:07:03,395
The cameras are here,
so you can't be here,

1183
01:07:03,562 --> 01:07:04,563
you have to be on
the other side.

1184
01:07:04,730 --> 01:07:06,440
- He just wanted total control.

1185
01:07:06,606 --> 01:07:09,443
And it was too much,
it became too much.

1186
01:07:09,609 --> 01:07:13,113
- I want you all stand
up there, on the runway.

1187
01:07:13,280 --> 01:07:14,531
Not in twos and twos.

1188
01:07:14,698 --> 01:07:15,574
You're doing it
like a fashion show.

1189
01:07:15,741 --> 01:07:17,617
It looks so dumb.

1190
01:07:17,784 --> 01:07:19,619
Go out again.

1191
01:07:19,786 --> 01:07:21,496
No, not please, just do it.

1192
01:07:21,663 --> 01:07:23,540
- He was a perfectionist.

1193
01:07:23,707 --> 01:07:26,710
He had a very rough
time in giving up.

1194
01:07:26,877 --> 01:07:29,087
It was an emotional,
like, lock-in.

1195
01:07:29,254 --> 01:07:30,297
- No, nothing's lined up.

1196
01:07:30,464 --> 01:07:31,173
Connie?

1197
01:07:33,467 --> 01:07:35,969
Can't you people line it
up like I've lined it up?

1198
01:07:36,136 --> 01:07:37,095
I mean, really.

1199
01:07:37,262 --> 01:07:38,597
Look at the boards.

1200
01:07:38,764 --> 01:07:39,973
It's so dumb.

1201
01:07:40,140 --> 01:07:42,100
What do you think
I did all this for?

1202
01:07:42,267 --> 01:07:43,852
Well, I hope nobody
has to go tonight

1203
01:07:44,019 --> 01:07:46,813
because we've got
to go through this.

1204
01:07:48,023 --> 01:07:49,775
- He was a bit of a bully.

1205
01:07:49,941 --> 01:07:52,444
You really had to stand up to
him, otherwise, you'd be lost.

1206
01:07:52,611 --> 01:07:54,696
And there wasn't a lot of
people who could do that.

1207
01:07:54,863 --> 01:07:57,657
Very, very few people
in our company.

1208
01:07:58,784 --> 01:08:01,161
- He would snap at you.

1209
01:08:01,328 --> 01:08:05,165
And even though we all had
the same amount of abuse,

1210
01:08:06,833 --> 01:08:08,376
you took it personally.

1211
01:08:08,543 --> 01:08:11,713
I never, ever got used
to being yelled at.

1212
01:08:13,757 --> 01:08:16,384
- It just became a
different relationship

1213
01:08:16,551 --> 01:08:18,345
and a different company.

1214
01:08:22,307 --> 01:08:26,186
- Even with Faye, I mean,
she defended that man.

1215
01:08:26,353 --> 01:08:28,438
But he'd just take
it all out on her.

1216
01:08:28,605 --> 01:08:32,776
Scream and yell at the
top of his lungs, I mean.

1217
01:08:32,943 --> 01:08:33,985
- Come on, come on, D. D.

1218
01:08:34,152 --> 01:08:35,320
Come on, everybody.

1219
01:08:35,487 --> 01:08:37,697
Don't walk out like
you're a parade.

1220
01:08:37,864 --> 01:08:41,701
- But the aura of it all,
and being a part of it,

1221
01:08:41,868 --> 01:08:43,036
kept you hooked.

1222
01:08:44,162 --> 01:08:45,580
You know, eventually,

1223
01:08:45,747 --> 01:08:48,917
he had all of us wear
black at the office.

1224
01:08:50,252 --> 01:08:53,713
He wanted us to be a
backdrop to the clothes.

1225
01:08:55,507 --> 01:08:59,135
And everything, to
him, was a PR event.

1226
01:08:59,302 --> 01:09:00,804
We were all PR events.

1227
01:09:00,971 --> 01:09:07,143
It was the stage
set that was us.

1228
01:09:08,270 --> 01:09:09,145
- Margaret.

1229
01:09:11,231 --> 01:09:13,358
- What we're looking
for is the illusion of art.

1230
01:09:13,525 --> 01:09:14,693
- Can I give you a little
bit of highlight there?

1231
01:09:14,860 --> 01:09:16,069
That's very good.

1232
01:09:18,280 --> 01:09:21,992
- You see, our mistake,
including Halston,

1233
01:09:22,158 --> 01:09:24,744
is to take our
name too seriously.

1234
01:09:26,621 --> 01:09:27,873
I mean, for me.

1235
01:09:28,039 --> 01:09:29,916
I was a jewelry designer.

1236
01:09:31,042 --> 01:09:32,878
I was a good jewelry designer.

1237
01:09:33,044 --> 01:09:35,463
I dedicate all my time to it.

1238
01:09:57,944 --> 01:10:03,700
- We had fights because he was
so much out of it, you know.

1239
01:10:03,867 --> 01:10:05,577
Because I'm vulgar.

1240
01:10:05,744 --> 01:10:07,621
Not vulgar, but, you know, I
cannot withstand all the time,

1241
01:10:07,787 --> 01:10:11,458
thinking that the pencil has
to be like that, impossible.

1242
01:10:35,857 --> 01:10:42,322
- He became a real loner.

1243
01:10:47,410 --> 01:10:49,204
- And did you
see the Elizabeth cover?

1244
01:10:49,371 --> 01:10:50,789
- Oh, it's so--
- Oh, that's beautiful.

1245
01:10:50,956 --> 01:10:52,290
- Isn't that wonderful?
- I love it for her.

1246
01:10:52,457 --> 01:10:53,833
- She looks great.
- She looks really great.

1247
01:10:54,000 --> 01:10:55,377
- I love the
picture of her inside.

1248
01:10:55,543 --> 01:10:56,336
- It's good.

1249
01:10:59,172 --> 01:11:00,507
- Oh, it looks great.

1250
01:11:00,674 --> 01:11:02,092
- Do you like that?
- Mm-hmm, I love it.

1251
01:11:02,258 --> 01:11:03,843
- Yeah, I think
Elizabeth will like that.

1252
01:11:04,010 --> 01:11:05,595
- Color is fabulous.

1253
01:11:05,762 --> 01:11:07,722
Fabulous, it looks
good, uh-huh.

1254
01:11:07,889 --> 01:11:11,351
- With the cover of Harper's
Bazaar, I just love it on her.

1255
01:11:11,518 --> 01:11:12,602
- And the truth
of the matter is

1256
01:11:12,769 --> 01:11:14,604
that his business
was slowing down.

1257
01:11:14,771 --> 01:11:18,024
He peaked, and other
names were showing up.

1258
01:11:20,068 --> 01:11:21,194
- Which brings us to Calvins,

1259
01:11:21,361 --> 01:11:23,697
and the survival
of the fittest.

1260
01:11:23,863 --> 01:11:26,449
- Good morning, Calvin
Klein, I presume.

1261
01:11:26,616 --> 01:11:28,034
Is that your name?

1262
01:11:30,203 --> 01:11:34,499
- Perry Ellis
is a new name in fashion.

1263
01:11:39,587 --> 01:11:43,925
- But Halston was
never one to fall behind.

1264
01:11:47,345 --> 01:11:49,681
- I am pleased to
announce an association

1265
01:11:49,848 --> 01:11:53,143
between Halston
Enterprises and JCPenney.

1266
01:11:53,309 --> 01:11:57,564
Today, we have signed $1
billion retail sales agreement.

1267
01:11:57,731 --> 01:12:00,233
- It was a license
over five years.

1268
01:12:00,400 --> 01:12:03,695
The largest designer deal
that had ever been made.

1269
01:12:03,862 --> 01:12:05,780
Enough money to make
anyone, even Norton Simon,

1270
01:12:05,947 --> 01:12:07,657
sit up and take notice.

1271
01:12:09,242 --> 01:12:12,328
- I begged him, I begged him
not to do the Penney thing.

1272
01:12:12,495 --> 01:12:14,205
This is gonna kill us.

1273
01:12:14,372 --> 01:12:16,207
And he kept saying,
"No, no, no, no, no.

1274
01:12:16,374 --> 01:12:19,002
"I wanna dress
everybody in America."

1275
01:12:21,046 --> 01:12:22,756
- It sounded like
a good deal to me,

1276
01:12:22,922 --> 01:12:26,593
to create things for people
who couldn't afford his, yes.

1277
01:12:26,760 --> 01:12:28,219
- Well, you know,
strangely enough,

1278
01:12:28,386 --> 01:12:30,388
when I was a kid, I always
shopped at Penney's.

1279
01:12:30,555 --> 01:12:33,141
My mother always took me to
Penney's to buy all the clothes

1280
01:12:33,308 --> 01:12:35,018
that we wore to school
and everything else.

1281
01:12:35,185 --> 01:12:37,353
And it's true, I come
from Des Moines, Iowa.

1282
01:12:37,520 --> 01:12:39,564
And my mother being a
practical Midwestern lady,

1283
01:12:39,731 --> 01:12:41,483
always took us there.

1284
01:12:41,649 --> 01:12:44,360
- In one highly-publicized
stroke of the pen,

1285
01:12:44,527 --> 01:12:47,030
Halston moved from
class to mass.

1286
01:12:47,197 --> 01:12:48,615
The reaction of
the fashion world

1287
01:12:48,782 --> 01:12:50,950
ranged from shock to outrage.

1288
01:12:52,202 --> 01:12:53,703
- JCPenney?

1289
01:12:53,870 --> 01:12:55,163
- Yes, JCPenney,

1290
01:12:55,330 --> 01:12:57,290
that nationwide
middle-class retailer

1291
01:12:57,457 --> 01:12:59,375
that offers clothes
right off the rack,

1292
01:12:59,542 --> 01:13:01,920
has landed a very big designer.

1293
01:13:02,087 --> 01:13:02,962
- Would you
expect to find a designer

1294
01:13:03,129 --> 01:13:04,547
like Halston in here?

1295
01:13:04,714 --> 01:13:07,133
- No, not Halston in JCPenney.

1296
01:13:07,300 --> 01:13:08,718
- Obviously, we're
very excited about it.

1297
01:13:08,885 --> 01:13:11,221
We think it is a catch.

1298
01:13:11,387 --> 01:13:13,473
- JCPenney is
trying to trade up.

1299
01:13:13,640 --> 01:13:15,266
But they're not quite
gonna change their name

1300
01:13:15,433 --> 01:13:17,477
to JCPeigner or JCPeignoir.

1301
01:13:19,145 --> 01:13:20,814
- I believe in our country,
and I like America,

1302
01:13:20,980 --> 01:13:22,273
and I like Americans
to look good.

1303
01:13:22,440 --> 01:13:23,691
And I'm an American designer,

1304
01:13:23,858 --> 01:13:25,318
and I love the
opportunity to do it.

1305
01:13:25,485 --> 01:13:27,112
- It's a first

1306
01:13:27,278 --> 01:13:28,822
between a department store
chain and a major designer,

1307
01:13:28,988 --> 01:13:30,657
with the clothes expected
to be on the racks

1308
01:13:30,824 --> 01:13:32,534
in the fall of '83.

1309
01:13:32,700 --> 01:13:35,537
- That makes a very good mix
from both catalog and retail.

1310
01:13:35,703 --> 01:13:37,622
- This
is called Halston III.

1311
01:13:37,789 --> 01:13:39,457
- It's called Halston III.
- Why?

1312
01:13:39,624 --> 01:13:42,460
- Well, it's really the
third stage of my career.

1313
01:13:42,627 --> 01:13:44,170
The first being in the
millinery business,

1314
01:13:44,337 --> 01:13:45,713
and then in fancy clothes

1315
01:13:45,880 --> 01:13:47,298
and dressing all the
stars and things.

1316
01:13:47,465 --> 01:13:51,928
And now, a larger public,
dressing America, really.

1317
01:13:52,095 --> 01:13:52,971
- He said
he would design it,

1318
01:13:53,138 --> 01:13:54,556
and he designed it.

1319
01:13:54,722 --> 01:13:56,599
And everybody, of course,
wanted a piece of it.

1320
01:13:56,766 --> 01:14:00,478
You know, the guy who made
scarves wanted Halston scarves.

1321
01:14:00,645 --> 01:14:02,355
The guy who made shoes
wanted Halston shoes.

1322
01:14:02,522 --> 01:14:04,524
All that was going on.

1323
01:14:04,691 --> 01:14:08,361
- JCPenney is an
organization that is so vast,

1324
01:14:08,528 --> 01:14:10,905
it's not like one person
oversees the whole thing.

1325
01:14:11,072 --> 01:14:15,076
And so, talk about cultures,
different cultures completely.

1326
01:14:15,243 --> 01:14:17,662
- We asked Penney executives
to sum up the Halston III line

1327
01:14:17,829 --> 01:14:19,247
in one word.

1328
01:14:19,414 --> 01:14:20,039
- Profit.

1329
01:14:20,206 --> 01:14:21,082
- Volume.

1330
01:14:21,249 --> 01:14:23,209
- It's what America wants.

1331
01:14:26,671 --> 01:14:27,922
- Things
became so tense

1332
01:14:28,089 --> 01:14:29,841
that Norton Simon
brought in consultants

1333
01:14:30,008 --> 01:14:34,053
to fix the relationship.

1334
01:14:39,100 --> 01:14:40,518
- When I got
involved in it and everything,

1335
01:14:40,685 --> 01:14:43,354
I thought, oh, boy, we're
really in for it, Billie.

1336
01:14:43,521 --> 01:14:45,773
I mean, shit, this
is a mother lode.

1337
01:14:45,940 --> 01:14:48,401
These people really need help.

1338
01:14:48,568 --> 01:14:50,486
Some sketches they
couldn't read.

1339
01:14:50,653 --> 01:14:53,114
Fabrics they didn't
know anything about.

1340
01:14:53,281 --> 01:14:54,782
Everybody would pat me
on the head and say,

1341
01:14:54,949 --> 01:14:57,785
"Oh, listen, just leave it
to us, we'll work it out.

1342
01:14:57,952 --> 01:14:59,162
"You just be artistical."

1343
01:15:00,914 --> 01:15:03,124
Well, no, no way.

1344
01:15:03,291 --> 01:15:05,710
The only way it'll work, let
me tell you, listen to daddy.

1345
01:15:05,877 --> 01:15:07,086
- Yes, I'm listening.

1346
01:15:07,253 --> 01:15:08,129
- The only
way it'll work is

1347
01:15:08,296 --> 01:15:09,589
to make the goddamn dress,

1348
01:15:09,756 --> 01:15:11,174
which, we're making
the goddamn dress.

1349
01:15:11,341 --> 01:15:13,009
And then they go and look
at the goddamn dress,

1350
01:15:13,176 --> 01:15:14,761
they'll see the
point of difference.

1351
01:15:14,928 --> 01:15:16,304
I'm just trying
to make it work.

1352
01:15:16,471 --> 01:15:17,722
- I know that.

1353
01:15:17,889 --> 01:15:20,058
I know that, it was--
- Desperately.

1354
01:15:23,770 --> 01:15:25,355
- All the plants,
he's got to understand

1355
01:15:25,521 --> 01:15:27,565
that we've got to commit,
like, eight months in advance.

1356
01:15:27,732 --> 01:15:29,275
We need to get the
approvals and the go-aheads

1357
01:15:29,442 --> 01:15:30,610
and the concepts.

1358
01:15:30,777 --> 01:15:32,528
But he's so involved
with everything,

1359
01:15:32,695 --> 01:15:34,280
that everything take,

1360
01:15:34,447 --> 01:15:37,450
on the label, the
label took him months.

1361
01:15:42,372 --> 01:15:45,166
- America has heard about it.

1362
01:15:45,333 --> 01:15:48,044
And we've all dreamt about it.

1363
01:15:48,211 --> 01:15:52,006
And now, after months of
anticipation, it's here.

1364
01:15:53,925 --> 01:15:56,678
The Halston III
Collection for 1983.

1365
01:15:59,681 --> 01:16:01,391
- This is an
experiment, you know?

1366
01:16:01,557 --> 01:16:03,977
And it could succeed,
it could not succeed.

1367
01:16:11,484 --> 01:16:12,902
- Quite a show.

1368
01:16:13,069 --> 01:16:16,364
500 of the fashionables
sat in a huge room,

1369
01:16:16,531 --> 01:16:20,326
dominated by a 60-foot whale
hanging down from the ceiling.

1370
01:16:20,493 --> 01:16:24,247
People didn't know where to
cry bravo or thar she blows.

1371
01:16:24,414 --> 01:16:28,293
- This has been probably the
most challenging and gratifying

1372
01:16:28,459 --> 01:16:30,712
fashion exercise in my career.

1373
01:16:33,464 --> 01:16:36,301
- He did really
give a lot to it.

1374
01:16:36,467 --> 01:16:38,261
I mean, he was really
taking it seriously.

1375
01:16:38,428 --> 01:16:41,139
He did a really
well-conceived line.

1376
01:16:42,682 --> 01:16:45,518
- Gosh, we had about
26 models in there.

1377
01:16:45,685 --> 01:16:46,853
The clothes looked spectacular.

1378
01:16:47,020 --> 01:16:48,604
It was perfect
for that audience.

1379
01:16:48,771 --> 01:16:52,608
And everybody looked fabulous,
and very good reviews.

1380
01:16:52,775 --> 01:16:56,154
And the show was very
successful, very.

1381
01:16:58,990 --> 01:17:00,241
- I'm telling him how
great his show was.

1382
01:17:00,408 --> 01:17:01,617
And I knew he was behind it.

1383
01:17:01,784 --> 01:17:03,202
- I love your
board of directors,

1384
01:17:03,369 --> 01:17:05,663
wanting to go out and buy
it right away.

1385
01:17:05,830 --> 01:17:07,165
That's great.

1386
01:17:07,332 --> 01:17:08,458
- Well, we'll have a
lot more great showings.

1387
01:17:08,624 --> 01:17:09,625
- You
know, I think so.

1388
01:17:09,792 --> 01:17:10,960
- It's the first
of many to come.

1389
01:17:11,127 --> 01:17:12,170
- No, I'm very proud of it.

1390
01:17:12,337 --> 01:17:13,129
It's wonderful, a
wonderful thing.

1391
01:17:23,306 --> 01:17:24,557
- They had a big flag
out at the museum

1392
01:17:24,724 --> 01:17:26,434
when they had the show.

1393
01:17:26,601 --> 01:17:29,354
And Ira Neimark, who was the
President of Bergdorf-Goodman,

1394
01:17:29,520 --> 01:17:31,397
and Jackie, his wife, were
coming home from dinner,

1395
01:17:31,564 --> 01:17:33,483
and they saw this Halston flag.

1396
01:17:33,649 --> 01:17:35,568
He called his
senior merchandising

1397
01:17:35,735 --> 01:17:36,903
manager that night

1398
01:17:37,070 --> 01:17:41,074
at home, and she
called me at home

1399
01:17:42,033 --> 01:17:45,036
and said he wants
everything out of the store.

1400
01:17:45,203 --> 01:17:46,537
The fragrance, the
ready-to-wear, everything.

1401
01:17:46,704 --> 01:17:48,581
He doesn't want anything
to do with Halston.

1402
01:17:52,794 --> 01:17:54,712
- Didn't you run into some
trouble with Bergdorf,

1403
01:17:54,879 --> 01:17:55,713
who was the first place
you had a boutique?

1404
01:17:55,880 --> 01:17:57,215
- Oh, not at all.

1405
01:17:57,382 --> 01:17:58,883
No, I don't think so.

1406
01:17:59,050 --> 01:18:00,593
You know, Bergdorf, you
know, I wish them well.

1407
01:18:00,760 --> 01:18:02,512
I started my career at Bergdorf

1408
01:18:02,678 --> 01:18:04,514
and helped to make
Bergdorf famous.

1409
01:18:04,680 --> 01:18:06,099
But Bergdorf is a
rather small account

1410
01:18:06,265 --> 01:18:09,143
compared to all America.

1411
01:18:09,310 --> 01:18:10,645
- He was very upset.

1412
01:18:10,812 --> 01:18:12,397
He didn't understand it.

1413
01:18:12,563 --> 01:18:15,441
Also, shocked
over the fact that

1414
01:18:15,608 --> 01:18:17,110
that could happen that quickly.

1415
01:18:17,276 --> 01:18:18,653
- Did Bergdorf-Goodman
drop your line

1416
01:18:18,820 --> 01:18:21,406
because you went to Penney's?

1417
01:18:21,572 --> 01:18:23,449
- They, I think,
felt threatened.

1418
01:18:23,616 --> 01:18:25,993
But I think there's
a way out of it.

1419
01:18:26,160 --> 01:18:28,371
- Your connection to
Bergdorf is a very important,

1420
01:18:28,538 --> 01:18:29,455
in terms of, wasn't that
the first to give you--

1421
01:18:29,622 --> 01:18:31,457
- I helped to make Bergdorf.

1422
01:18:31,624 --> 01:18:33,042
- He stepped out of the norm.

1423
01:18:33,209 --> 01:18:37,213
And people like
their boundaries

1424
01:18:37,380 --> 01:18:40,800
that are set between
them and those.

1425
01:18:40,967 --> 01:18:43,511
- The fancy-shmancy
guys are saying

1426
01:18:43,678 --> 01:18:47,598
that undermines your
elegant, chic hoi polloi.

1427
01:18:47,765 --> 01:18:48,933
- Oh, it doesn't.

1428
01:18:49,100 --> 01:18:50,601
My business is very good.

1429
01:18:50,768 --> 01:18:52,353
You know, if one store more
or less doesn't like it,

1430
01:18:52,520 --> 01:18:54,647
I mean, you know, I'm sorry.

1431
01:18:54,814 --> 01:18:56,774
- Yeah, but you can't--
- I tried my best.

1432
01:18:56,941 --> 01:18:59,235
- And then I started
getting all kinds of calls

1433
01:18:59,402 --> 01:19:02,488
from presidents of the stores
all over the United States,

1434
01:19:02,655 --> 01:19:06,534
and merchandising managers,
cutting back on orders.

1435
01:19:09,203 --> 01:19:11,289
It was pure hell after that.

1436
01:19:11,456 --> 01:19:14,876
He realized that he had
done the wrong thing.

1437
01:19:16,961 --> 01:19:19,881
- You know, the
press could be mean.

1438
01:19:20,047 --> 01:19:22,133
They were not supporting him.

1439
01:19:22,300 --> 01:19:23,968
That seemed odd to me.

1440
01:19:25,261 --> 01:19:27,847
It just seemed like a gang.

1441
01:19:28,014 --> 01:19:29,515
One person misbehaves,

1442
01:19:29,682 --> 01:19:33,186
and then everybody's
bullying this one person.

1443
01:19:35,563 --> 01:19:38,858
- Clearly, the purpose was to
strengthen Penney's position

1444
01:19:39,025 --> 01:19:41,819
as a supplier of
fashionable merchandise.

1445
01:19:41,986 --> 01:19:43,446
- Good.

1446
01:19:43,613 --> 01:19:45,072
- Okay, fine, that's
a diplomatic answer.

1447
01:19:45,239 --> 01:19:46,157
- I guess you got
what you need.

1448
01:19:46,324 --> 01:19:47,325
- Oh, absolutely.

1449
01:19:47,492 --> 01:19:48,784
- You can cut out and chop away

1450
01:19:48,951 --> 01:19:50,703
and do what you need, okay.
- Oh, no--

1451
01:19:52,246 --> 01:19:55,666
- The JCPenney thing became
so enormous a problem,

1452
01:19:55,833 --> 01:19:59,378
that the distance between
us became too great.

1453
01:20:00,630 --> 01:20:02,507
He wanted me to leave,

1454
01:20:02,673 --> 01:20:04,383
but he didn't want to say
he wanted me to leave.

1455
01:20:04,550 --> 01:20:08,804
He wanted to make things so
unpleasant that I would leave.

1456
01:20:10,181 --> 01:20:12,642
I pushed him too hard.

1457
01:20:12,808 --> 01:20:15,728
I pushed too many
licenses down on him.

1458
01:20:23,736 --> 01:20:27,156
- Things got out of control,
and I started not to feel well.

1459
01:20:27,323 --> 01:20:29,700
So I went to the
doctor, and he said,

1460
01:20:29,867 --> 01:20:32,036
"You have the
beginning of an ulcer."

1461
01:20:32,203 --> 01:20:36,374
And it was from the stress.

1462
01:20:41,420 --> 01:20:45,049
I just got to the point where
I couldn't deal with it.

1463
01:20:45,216 --> 01:20:46,551
And had to leave.

1464
01:20:46,717 --> 01:20:47,927
I hated to leave.

1465
01:20:48,094 --> 01:20:52,974
I loved Halston, but
I had to get out.

1466
01:20:58,020 --> 01:21:00,690
- I saw him
frustrated, and like,

1467
01:21:00,856 --> 01:21:04,485
"How can this thing
come into my life?"

1468
01:21:04,652 --> 01:21:08,281
And I said, well, maybe you
have to drop the whole thing

1469
01:21:08,447 --> 01:21:12,118
and come with me,
and get outta here.

1470
01:21:12,285 --> 01:21:15,538
We'll just get a boat,
you'll take a break.

1471
01:21:17,582 --> 01:21:23,462
And he'd say, "I
can't go."

1472
01:21:28,593 --> 01:21:31,178
- They say that
when it rains, it pours.

1473
01:21:31,345 --> 01:21:33,889
Well, a perfect storm
was about to happen

1474
01:21:34,056 --> 01:21:36,183
when his good
friend David Mahoney

1475
01:21:36,350 --> 01:21:38,686
threw him into the
belly of the whale.

1476
01:21:42,732 --> 01:21:45,067
- The day
before the JCPenney show,

1477
01:21:45,234 --> 01:21:47,903
David made an offer
to buy Norton Simon.

1478
01:21:50,406 --> 01:21:52,450
He was gonna take it private,

1479
01:21:52,617 --> 01:21:56,037
and he could make an awful
lot of money doing that.

1480
01:21:56,203 --> 01:21:57,788
- Takeover mania in America.

1481
01:21:57,955 --> 01:22:00,041
Huge corporations are
gobbling one another

1482
01:22:00,207 --> 01:22:02,501
at a rate unmatched in history.

1483
01:22:02,668 --> 01:22:04,545
- But Esmark
came along out of the blue.

1484
01:22:06,380 --> 01:22:08,466
They made an outside bid
that was better than David's

1485
01:22:08,633 --> 01:22:10,009
and won the battle.

1486
01:22:13,888 --> 01:22:15,139
- I don't know
how Halston felt,

1487
01:22:15,306 --> 01:22:17,224
because after Norton
Simon sold him,

1488
01:22:17,391 --> 01:22:19,810
David Mahoney was,
you know, not there.

1489
01:22:19,977 --> 01:22:22,396
- You cannot
expect other people

1490
01:22:22,563 --> 01:22:24,649
to be interested in your
welfare all the time.

1491
01:22:24,815 --> 01:22:27,026
It's unfair, and
it's illogical.

1492
01:22:27,193 --> 01:22:28,819
So therefore, you'd better
take care of your own instincts

1493
01:22:28,986 --> 01:22:30,196
and your own efforts.

1494
01:22:30,363 --> 01:22:31,489
- Dog eat dog, look
out for yourself,

1495
01:22:31,656 --> 01:22:33,324
or is that what you mean?

1496
01:22:33,491 --> 01:22:34,617
- Well, no, I really
don't mean that,

1497
01:22:34,784 --> 01:22:37,078
although that's
part of it, Jane.

1498
01:22:37,244 --> 01:22:38,663
- You know how business is.

1499
01:22:38,829 --> 01:22:40,998
You know how money is,
you know how that is.

1500
01:22:41,165 --> 01:22:43,376
It's the pollution in the air.

1501
01:22:45,086 --> 01:22:48,381
- Esmark wasn't
really in the fashion business.

1502
01:22:48,547 --> 01:22:50,174
Except for maybe.

1503
01:22:50,341 --> 01:22:53,135
- Feeling smashing,
or the height of fashion?

1504
01:22:53,302 --> 01:22:55,388
Playtex once and you'll
Playtex for keeps.

1505
01:22:55,554 --> 01:22:57,098
For comfort to please you.

1506
01:22:57,264 --> 01:23:00,267
- So Halston
was put under Joel Smilow,

1507
01:23:00,434 --> 01:23:02,019
one of America's
toughest bosses,

1508
01:23:02,186 --> 01:23:04,522
according to Fortune Magazine.

1509
01:23:04,689 --> 01:23:06,982
- This is a little
teeny company.

1510
01:23:07,149 --> 01:23:09,318
You know, sort of a flyspeck.

1511
01:23:09,485 --> 01:23:11,362
And so, think of it,

1512
01:23:11,529 --> 01:23:15,408
if supposing you owned
the New York Yankees,

1513
01:23:15,574 --> 01:23:18,577
and you also owned a
class D farm's team

1514
01:23:20,246 --> 01:23:22,748
in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania.

1515
01:23:22,915 --> 01:23:24,333
How much time would you spend

1516
01:23:24,500 --> 01:23:26,585
with your Bethlehem,
Pennsylvania farm team?

1517
01:23:36,762 --> 01:23:40,933
- In 1983, my uncle asked
me to come to dinner

1518
01:23:41,100 --> 01:23:42,727
while I was here.

1519
01:23:42,893 --> 01:23:46,313
I had recently
graduated from college.

1520
01:23:46,480 --> 01:23:48,065
I was very green.

1521
01:23:48,232 --> 01:23:49,900
And he dropped the bomb on me.

1522
01:23:50,067 --> 01:23:52,695
He said, "Well, would
you like to work for me?"

1523
01:23:52,862 --> 01:23:56,741
And I just sort of did
a somersault and said,

1524
01:23:56,907 --> 01:23:58,075
okay, I would love
to work for you.

1525
01:23:58,242 --> 01:23:59,452
When do I start?

1526
01:24:02,121 --> 01:24:04,498
I think maybe he wanted to
bring in a family member

1527
01:24:04,665 --> 01:24:06,667
who he could trust 100 %.

1528
01:24:08,419 --> 01:24:10,629
There was a new manager
there from Esmark

1529
01:24:10,796 --> 01:24:12,298
who had just come on.

1530
01:24:13,466 --> 01:24:16,844
Do I have to say
his name?

1531
01:24:17,011 --> 01:24:17,511
- You don't
wanna say his name?

1532
01:24:17,678 --> 01:24:18,429
- No.

1533
01:24:45,623 --> 01:24:49,585
- My first day at
Halston was interesting.

1534
01:24:49,752 --> 01:24:52,588
I never seen anything
quite like it.

1535
01:24:52,755 --> 01:24:55,382
Here, I'm the kid
from Brooklyn, right?

1536
01:24:55,549 --> 01:24:59,178
Yet got into this
world of Halston's

1537
01:24:59,345 --> 01:25:01,514
castle, Olympic Tower.

1538
01:25:08,687 --> 01:25:10,064
Look, Ma, I'm on television.

1539
01:25:10,231 --> 01:25:11,941
- It's about time.

1540
01:25:12,107 --> 01:25:16,070
- There was a kind of a pinkie
throw, everywhere you went.

1541
01:25:18,322 --> 01:25:22,326
Halston was a little bit
Hollywood, in my parlance.

1542
01:25:23,828 --> 01:25:26,288
But I thought we hit it off.

1543
01:25:32,753 --> 01:25:35,548
- You'd never think Carl
ever be with Halston.

1544
01:25:35,714 --> 01:25:39,176
I mean, physically,
mentally, anything.

1545
01:25:39,343 --> 01:25:42,972
But when Carl came in,
in a very strange way,

1546
01:25:43,138 --> 01:25:45,641
Halston liked him a lot.

1547
01:25:45,808 --> 01:25:47,184
- He kept saying,

1548
01:25:47,351 --> 01:25:49,603
"I've never had the
right kind of management.

1549
01:25:49,770 --> 01:25:51,981
"And that's part
of our problem."

1550
01:25:52,147 --> 01:25:54,441
And he gives me a
kiss on the forehead.

1551
01:25:54,608 --> 01:25:55,860
It was wonderful.

1552
01:25:56,026 --> 01:25:58,654
And then he says,
"You're now the king."

1553
01:25:58,821 --> 01:26:01,448
And he made, with
his own hands,

1554
01:26:01,615 --> 01:26:04,577
the crown that he gave me.

1555
01:26:08,080 --> 01:26:10,583
- Halston, I think,
honestly believed

1556
01:26:10,749 --> 01:26:15,087
that Carl Epstein was going
to mediate with big business.

1557
01:26:17,423 --> 01:26:19,925
But I remember
thinking to myself,

1558
01:26:20,092 --> 01:26:22,928
well, there are two
men in this room.

1559
01:26:23,095 --> 01:26:26,849
But there's only one king
at Halston Enterprises.

1560
01:26:33,105 --> 01:26:36,358
Voila.

1561
01:26:36,525 --> 01:26:38,360
I thought, hey, this is fun.

1562
01:26:38,527 --> 01:26:42,865
Clothes had to be made for
me similar to what he wears.

1563
01:26:43,032 --> 01:26:46,243
Oh, my wife, my kids are
getting all these clothes.

1564
01:26:46,410 --> 01:26:50,581
And then one day, he
introduces me to Liza Minnelli.

1565
01:26:52,166 --> 01:26:54,710
I said, you know, this is,
to hell with the business.

1566
01:26:54,877 --> 01:26:55,836
This is great.

1567
01:26:56,962 --> 01:27:00,132
You know, this is
the way to live.

1568
01:27:00,299 --> 01:27:01,967
- We had budget meetings
and, apparently,

1569
01:27:02,134 --> 01:27:03,385
theirs was a disaster.

1570
01:27:03,552 --> 01:27:06,805
Carl was not doing
what we agreed to.

1571
01:27:06,972 --> 01:27:08,599
I'm at the top,

1572
01:27:08,766 --> 01:27:09,850
and I don't care what's
happening in the engine room.

1573
01:27:10,017 --> 01:27:11,810
I know the engine
isn't running.

1574
01:27:11,977 --> 01:27:13,854
And it wasn't.

1575
01:27:14,021 --> 01:27:15,522
Turn this into a brand.

1576
01:27:15,689 --> 01:27:17,816
Turn this into
something we can handle,

1577
01:27:17,983 --> 01:27:20,277
and stop having it be
this airy-fairy kind of,

1578
01:27:20,444 --> 01:27:22,780
I work when I want to, I'm
not inspired, I'm an artist

1579
01:27:22,947 --> 01:27:24,698
kind of thing.

1580
01:27:24,865 --> 01:27:27,493
- I read all the
personnel files,

1581
01:27:27,660 --> 01:27:29,745
and I had my rude awakening.

1582
01:27:29,912 --> 01:27:33,374
D. D. Ryan, I have to laugh.

1583
01:27:34,500 --> 01:27:38,045
Halston said, "Well, she's
the resident geisha."

1584
01:27:40,965 --> 01:27:42,925
Bill Dugan was another one.

1585
01:27:43,092 --> 01:27:45,219
He said, "Well, he amuses me."

1586
01:27:46,303 --> 01:27:48,472
And then he had Victor Hugo.

1587
01:27:48,639 --> 01:27:51,350
I'll never forget once,
he called me, frantic,

1588
01:27:51,517 --> 01:27:54,103
Victor Hugo was gonna kill him.

1589
01:27:54,269 --> 01:27:59,149
- Victor held the entire office
captive for several hours.

1590
01:27:59,775 --> 01:28:01,902
He was kind of like a mad dog.

1591
01:28:02,069 --> 01:28:03,779
- Probably shocking to Carl,
because I don't think Carl

1592
01:28:03,946 --> 01:28:06,198
was in the habit of
taking drugs, period.

1593
01:28:06,365 --> 01:28:08,701
Except, you know, Pepto-Bismol.

1594
01:28:09,952 --> 01:28:12,413
- I just decided to duck out
and go to the Top of the Sixes

1595
01:28:12,579 --> 01:28:15,582
and have some gin and tonics.

1596
01:28:15,749 --> 01:28:18,961
- It was a crazy
never-never land.

1597
01:28:19,128 --> 01:28:22,172
Then, I checked all
the expense stuff.

1598
01:28:22,339 --> 01:28:24,049
And that blew my mind.

1599
01:28:24,216 --> 01:28:25,467
The flowers.

1600
01:28:28,220 --> 01:28:30,472
- Carl had me in
to talk to me about

1601
01:28:30,639 --> 01:28:33,225
what was being spent
on the flower budget.

1602
01:28:33,392 --> 01:28:35,102
And I said,

1603
01:28:35,269 --> 01:28:39,023
yes, I know what's being spent
on the flower budget, Carl.

1604
01:28:39,189 --> 01:28:41,734
I'm writing up
the bills myself.

1605
01:28:41,900 --> 01:28:43,610
- Esmark believed you
could have plastic plants

1606
01:28:43,777 --> 01:28:45,696
instead of orchid plants.

1607
01:28:45,863 --> 01:28:46,864
They're plants.

1608
01:28:48,115 --> 01:28:50,242
- Entertainment,
which was enormous.

1609
01:28:50,409 --> 01:28:52,411
The kitchen cost.

1610
01:28:52,578 --> 01:28:55,080
Example, they would
prepare a meal for him

1611
01:28:55,247 --> 01:28:59,334
while he's in Montauk, and
put it on a private plane,

1612
01:28:59,501 --> 01:29:03,589
fly it to Montauk, and
deliver it to Halston's house.

1613
01:29:03,756 --> 01:29:06,341
And that was a company expense?

1614
01:29:06,508 --> 01:29:09,678
That meal must
have cost $2,000.

1615
01:29:09,845 --> 01:29:14,183
It was '80s.

1616
01:29:14,349 --> 01:29:17,102
- Martha Graham was
honored in Paris last night.

1617
01:29:17,269 --> 01:29:19,271
She was presented with
the Cross of the Chevalier

1618
01:29:19,438 --> 01:29:21,065
of the Legion of Honor.

1619
01:29:21,231 --> 01:29:24,568
- The honeymoon ended when
he was going to go to Paris

1620
01:29:24,735 --> 01:29:26,862
with Martha Graham.

1621
01:29:27,029 --> 01:29:29,990
He's gonna take
his staff with him.

1622
01:29:30,157 --> 01:29:33,243
We calculated the
cost of doing that.

1623
01:29:33,410 --> 01:29:36,872
And just the workroom,
it was 125,000.

1624
01:29:37,039 --> 01:29:40,584
So I then told Halston,
you can't do it.

1625
01:29:40,751 --> 01:29:42,628
Halston was so incensed.

1626
01:29:43,879 --> 01:29:46,048
"How dare you say no to me?"

1627
01:29:47,174 --> 01:29:48,884
It was like Jekyll and Hyde.

1628
01:29:49,051 --> 01:29:51,053
Suddenly Mr. Hyde came out.

1629
01:29:53,430 --> 01:29:55,724
From then on, I was the enemy.

1630
01:29:57,476 --> 01:30:01,105
- Carl, every morning, would
put little sticky notes

1631
01:30:01,271 --> 01:30:04,983
on Halston's table about
what had to happen today,

1632
01:30:05,150 --> 01:30:07,027
or what things were
gonna be taken away.

1633
01:30:07,194 --> 01:30:09,822
And he didn't like it.

1634
01:30:09,988 --> 01:30:11,657
- We need to do this,
we need to do that.

1635
01:30:11,824 --> 01:30:14,326
And it was just like,
you're bossing him around?

1636
01:30:14,493 --> 01:30:16,620
Like, no one does that.

1637
01:30:16,787 --> 01:30:17,996
- It was a big struggle.

1638
01:30:18,163 --> 01:30:19,498
And it got worse and worse,

1639
01:30:19,665 --> 01:30:21,208
and he started coming
in later and later

1640
01:30:21,375 --> 01:30:27,339
so he wouldn't have to deal
with seeing those people.

1641
01:30:32,469 --> 01:30:35,180
- Be careful, it's a
little dark here, hold on.

1642
01:30:44,481 --> 01:30:46,984
History is filled with wars.

1643
01:30:47,151 --> 01:30:49,153
But you have to
understand the difference

1644
01:30:49,319 --> 01:30:51,530
between strategy and tactics.

1645
01:30:52,739 --> 01:30:54,783
Strategy is the art of war.

1646
01:30:56,243 --> 01:30:58,412
Tactics is the art of battle.

1647
01:31:00,455 --> 01:31:04,042
The only real battle you must
never lose is the last one.

1648
01:31:11,008 --> 01:31:14,052
- There was rumor that a
junior designer was coming in

1649
01:31:14,219 --> 01:31:18,098
to help with the JCPenney,
and just huge workload.

1650
01:31:21,018 --> 01:31:23,729
- In the middle of February,
picked up the phone,

1651
01:31:23,896 --> 01:31:28,108
and this very deep voice said,
"John Ridge, this is Halston."

1652
01:31:28,275 --> 01:31:30,861
And he said, "Can
you come see me?"

1653
01:31:31,028 --> 01:31:32,571
So of course, I did.

1654
01:31:32,738 --> 01:31:36,491
And it turned out that it
wasn't really an interview.

1655
01:31:36,658 --> 01:31:39,870
It was, "When can you start?"

1656
01:31:40,037 --> 01:31:42,831
And I think he just needed
to know there was one head,

1657
01:31:42,998 --> 01:31:46,376
two arms, and that I knew
who Charles James was.

1658
01:32:04,394 --> 01:32:06,521
- Probably after a month,
I went to Carl and said,

1659
01:32:06,688 --> 01:32:10,067
I'm leaving, this is just
an impossible situation.

1660
01:32:10,234 --> 01:32:11,360
We were there
until eight, nine.

1661
01:32:11,526 --> 01:32:13,779
We never knew when
we were leaving.

1662
01:32:13,946 --> 01:32:17,741
I can't be responsible for
what the workroom cost.

1663
01:32:17,908 --> 01:32:19,576
And Carl said to me,

1664
01:32:19,743 --> 01:32:22,913
"Don't leave, things
are going to change."

1665
01:32:27,376 --> 01:32:30,087
- There was something
called the Werner Report.

1666
01:32:30,254 --> 01:32:33,465
But it was so hush
hush, I didn't see it

1667
01:32:33,632 --> 01:32:37,469
until probably seven or eight
months after I was there.

1668
01:32:37,636 --> 01:32:38,971
When I read it,

1669
01:32:39,137 --> 01:32:41,974
it dawned on me that
everything was tactical.

1670
01:32:42,140 --> 01:32:44,226
They were gonna
solve their problem

1671
01:32:44,393 --> 01:32:46,395
by how we train the staff,

1672
01:32:46,561 --> 01:32:50,023
how we make the staff
unafraid of Halston.

1673
01:32:50,190 --> 01:32:54,778
How they would learn to cope
with Halston and his tirades.

1674
01:32:55,195 --> 01:32:56,989
Mahoney's attitude was,

1675
01:32:57,155 --> 01:33:00,784
we are not gonna try
to control Halston.

1676
01:33:00,951 --> 01:33:04,037
My strategy was going
back to square one.

1677
01:33:05,455 --> 01:33:08,583
Sometimes the kindest thing
in the world you can do is

1678
01:33:08,750 --> 01:33:10,168
to say no to somebody.

1679
01:33:11,628 --> 01:33:14,423
He started coming in at four
o'clock in the afternoon,

1680
01:33:14,589 --> 01:33:16,758
and he wants the
workroom to wait for him

1681
01:33:16,925 --> 01:33:18,635
to come in at that time.

1682
01:33:18,802 --> 01:33:21,763
I told him, it's
not gonna happen.

1683
01:33:21,930 --> 01:33:26,226
They're gonna leave at five
o'clock, period, done, over.

1684
01:33:28,145 --> 01:33:30,147
In the final analysis,

1685
01:33:30,314 --> 01:33:33,358
he is like me and
everybody else in that place,

1686
01:33:33,525 --> 01:33:35,068
an employee.

1687
01:33:35,235 --> 01:33:36,695
- Carl was answerable.

1688
01:33:36,862 --> 01:33:39,698
And, you know, it's all
about the bottom line.

1689
01:33:39,865 --> 01:33:41,575
- That's
right, we knew that.

1690
01:33:41,742 --> 01:33:46,163
- I suppose he was there to
just slowly push Halston out.

1691
01:33:46,330 --> 01:33:47,581
They had the brand.

1692
01:33:47,748 --> 01:33:50,584
Halston was the diva designer

1693
01:33:50,751 --> 01:33:54,379
that they didn't
necessarily need anymore.

1694
01:33:54,546 --> 01:33:57,424
Halston started
taking legal counsel.

1695
01:34:00,052 --> 01:34:03,221
- When I first met him,
he was quite distraught.

1696
01:34:03,388 --> 01:34:05,349
He was so frustrated
and so angry

1697
01:34:05,515 --> 01:34:09,561
he had trouble completing
sentences and thoughts.

1698
01:34:09,728 --> 01:34:11,355
Suddenly he was cast adrift.

1699
01:34:11,521 --> 01:34:13,190
Well, I guess I can best put
it the way Halston put it,

1700
01:34:13,357 --> 01:34:16,610
that the folks from
Planet Tampon landed

1701
01:34:16,777 --> 01:34:17,903
on Planet Halston.

1702
01:34:20,947 --> 01:34:22,032
- I'm going to
pass this back and forth

1703
01:34:22,199 --> 01:34:23,575
like this.
- Okay, all right.

1704
01:34:23,742 --> 01:34:24,659
- You don't
have to worry about.

1705
01:34:24,826 --> 01:34:26,411
- I saw him tired at times.

1706
01:34:26,578 --> 01:34:28,872
I thought he was really tired.

1707
01:34:30,040 --> 01:34:32,084
- One time I came in,

1708
01:34:32,250 --> 01:34:35,670
and I think he might
have had a panic session.

1709
01:34:38,006 --> 01:34:39,633
He just seemed very stressed.

1710
01:34:39,800 --> 01:34:40,759
And I said, can I do anything?

1711
01:34:40,926 --> 01:34:42,844
He said, "No, just sit here.

1712
01:34:43,011 --> 01:34:44,262
"Just sit here."

1713
01:34:44,429 --> 01:34:47,432
And we sat there for,
like, 30 minutes.

1714
01:34:47,599 --> 01:34:50,268
Wow, that's new.

1715
01:34:51,770 --> 01:34:56,274
- Halston never asked me what
I thought of his collection.

1716
01:35:01,238 --> 01:35:04,825
This time, he asked me what
I thought of his collection.

1717
01:35:04,991 --> 01:35:07,285
And, honestly, it was like
someone had punched me

1718
01:35:07,452 --> 01:35:12,082
in my stomach, because I
knew that he was feeling

1719
01:35:12,249 --> 01:35:14,209
not as strong as he had been.

1720
01:35:14,376 --> 01:35:15,961
And it made me sad.

1721
01:35:18,588 --> 01:35:20,298
- If you
lived in another epoch

1722
01:35:20,465 --> 01:35:23,593
in another time in another
city, could you pick it for me?

1723
01:35:23,760 --> 01:35:24,428
- Oh, no way.

1724
01:35:24,594 --> 01:35:25,804
I like right now.

1725
01:35:25,971 --> 01:35:27,139
And tomorrow's
going to be better,

1726
01:35:27,305 --> 01:35:28,807
and next week is
going to be better.

1727
01:35:28,974 --> 01:35:30,767
No, no, no, I'm the
all-time optimist.

1728
01:35:30,934 --> 01:35:33,061
No, I like right now.

1729
01:35:33,228 --> 01:35:35,605
- The problem was simply drugs.

1730
01:35:37,941 --> 01:35:40,193
He had gone way too far.

1731
01:35:40,360 --> 01:35:42,320
- I don't do tuxedos.

1732
01:35:42,487 --> 01:35:44,281
- He was out of control.

1733
01:35:45,824 --> 01:35:50,829
Out of control was symmetrical
with Esmark taking over.

1734
01:35:50,996 --> 01:35:53,874
So you tell me which is the
chicken and which is the egg.

1735
01:35:54,040 --> 01:35:56,793
- Some time in that spring,
Liza went to Betty Ford.

1736
01:35:56,960 --> 01:36:00,714
And Halston said, "It's great
that things like this exist

1737
01:36:00,881 --> 01:36:02,007
"for those who need them.

1738
01:36:02,174 --> 01:36:03,425
"Of course, the rest of us

1739
01:36:03,592 --> 01:36:05,760
"have to get on
and earn a living."

1740
01:36:07,471 --> 01:36:11,641
- Very hard to do an interview
about your best friend,

1741
01:36:13,059 --> 01:36:15,896
especially if what's
popular in that day and age

1742
01:36:16,062 --> 01:36:17,689
is digging a little.

1743
01:36:17,856 --> 01:36:19,191
I don't like it.

1744
01:36:19,357 --> 01:36:21,026
I hated it when they
did it to my mother

1745
01:36:21,193 --> 01:36:23,028
or my father or myself.

1746
01:36:23,195 --> 01:36:26,698
And I won't do it to
Halston, I just won't.

1747
01:36:26,865 --> 01:36:28,658
I refuse.

1748
01:36:37,459 --> 01:36:40,795
- In June, he had summer
to do for JCPenney,

1749
01:36:42,255 --> 01:36:45,383
Which was way late
at that point.

1750
01:36:45,550 --> 01:36:47,511
- Halston cooled off.

1751
01:36:47,677 --> 01:36:50,055
He don't want do
JCPenney anymore.

1752
01:36:50,222 --> 01:36:51,556
I don't know why,

1753
01:36:51,723 --> 01:36:53,683
but that's when everything
went upside-down.

1754
01:36:57,646 --> 01:36:59,147
- I think he thought
that if he went on strike

1755
01:36:59,314 --> 01:37:02,067
and didn't design
the collections

1756
01:37:02,234 --> 01:37:06,238
that he had some power over
the situation, you know.

1757
01:37:07,405 --> 01:37:09,074
- I'm getting calls
from JCPenney saying,

1758
01:37:09,241 --> 01:37:10,909
"Where are our products?

1759
01:37:11,076 --> 01:37:12,452
"Where are the designs?

1760
01:37:12,619 --> 01:37:14,829
"He hasn't approved them."

1761
01:37:14,996 --> 01:37:18,041
And whether he was doing
that to get revenge on Carl,

1762
01:37:18,208 --> 01:37:20,001
or whether he was doing it
because he was doped up,

1763
01:37:20,168 --> 01:37:21,795
it wasn't happening.

1764
01:37:21,962 --> 01:37:23,380
- They were very frustrated

1765
01:37:23,547 --> 01:37:27,217
because they couldn't get
sketches from Halston.

1766
01:37:27,384 --> 01:37:28,885
So one day, I
drew them a jacket

1767
01:37:29,052 --> 01:37:30,387
'cause they had to
have a jacket,

1768
01:37:30,554 --> 01:37:31,680
and Halston wasn't there,

1769
01:37:31,846 --> 01:37:35,433
and I, well, he
was not too happy

1770
01:37:35,600 --> 01:37:37,811
that I'd given them a sketch.

1771
01:37:39,646 --> 01:37:43,108
But Penney's was
very happy about it.

1772
01:37:43,275 --> 01:37:45,652
And I think that they went
away viewing me as a source

1773
01:37:45,819 --> 01:37:49,656
that they could turn
to and get something.

1774
01:37:49,823 --> 01:37:51,866
And that was kind
of the beginning

1775
01:37:52,033 --> 01:37:55,203
of my personal
relationship with Penney's.

1776
01:37:56,496 --> 01:37:57,664
- It
is inappropriate

1777
01:37:57,831 --> 01:37:59,583
to have John Ridge
involved in areas

1778
01:37:59,749 --> 01:38:02,043
which do not fall under
his responsibilities,

1779
01:38:02,210 --> 01:38:03,878
signed Halston.

1780
01:38:04,045 --> 01:38:06,423
To John Ridge
from Carl Epstein.

1781
01:38:06,590 --> 01:38:08,800
Please keep up the good work.

1782
01:38:10,010 --> 01:38:13,221
- Carl was hell-bent
on isolating Halston.

1783
01:38:14,472 --> 01:38:16,850
Halston felt that he could
no longer work with Carl.

1784
01:38:17,017 --> 01:38:19,519
All he was good
at was destroying.

1785
01:38:21,229 --> 01:38:22,522
We decided the best
thing for Halston

1786
01:38:22,689 --> 01:38:24,232
would be to go to Montauk

1787
01:38:24,399 --> 01:38:28,361
and give everybody a chance
to take a deep breath.

1788
01:38:28,528 --> 01:38:31,448
We thought that there would
be a deep breath taken also

1789
01:38:31,615 --> 01:38:33,825
on the part of
the Esmark people.

1790
01:38:33,992 --> 01:38:35,619
Turned out not to be the case.

1791
01:38:37,912 --> 01:38:40,582
- Carl started
cleaning house.

1792
01:38:40,749 --> 01:38:44,002
D. D. Ryan, Bill Dugan.

1793
01:38:44,169 --> 01:38:46,254
- I was fired.

1794
01:38:46,421 --> 01:38:48,590
- May I have your
attention, please?

1795
01:38:48,757 --> 01:38:50,008
- They couldn't touch me

1796
01:38:50,175 --> 01:38:52,052
because he still
had an office there

1797
01:38:52,218 --> 01:38:54,888
and I was still his secretary.

1798
01:38:55,055 --> 01:38:57,515
I remember him calling me.

1799
01:38:57,682 --> 01:39:00,810
Carl held a meeting in
front of all the employees

1800
01:39:00,977 --> 01:39:03,063
at Halston Enterprises.

1801
01:39:03,229 --> 01:39:07,067
He said that it would no
longer be a one-man show.

1802
01:39:08,318 --> 01:39:09,819
John David Ridge was promoted

1803
01:39:09,986 --> 01:39:12,739
and would be in
charge of the design.

1804
01:39:14,282 --> 01:39:15,742
He is livid.

1805
01:39:15,909 --> 01:39:16,993
"It's my name on the label.

1806
01:39:17,160 --> 01:39:18,745
"How dare you?"

1807
01:39:18,912 --> 01:39:20,872
- It was his
company, his people,

1808
01:39:21,039 --> 01:39:23,458
his workers, everything.

1809
01:39:23,625 --> 01:39:25,085
So, we went back

1810
01:39:25,251 --> 01:39:29,881
and it unraveled into a
very unpleasant scenario.

1811
01:39:30,048 --> 01:39:32,592
- It was like having two
chefs in the kitchen.

1812
01:39:32,759 --> 01:39:35,845
Everybody was saying,
well, let's divide

1813
01:39:36,012 --> 01:39:37,180
the space up there,

1814
01:39:37,347 --> 01:39:38,890
and this half is Halston

1815
01:39:39,057 --> 01:39:41,935
and this other half is
Halston III with John Ridge.

1816
01:39:42,102 --> 01:39:44,062
- At some point, I said no.

1817
01:39:45,397 --> 01:39:48,608
No, you can get someone else
to do it, but I'm not going.

1818
01:39:48,775 --> 01:39:52,904
I knew, at this point, I knew
Halston pretty well, the man.

1819
01:39:53,071 --> 01:39:56,324
- There was a lot
of angst going on.

1820
01:39:56,491 --> 01:39:59,160
And so, I had my first
meeting with Roy.

1821
01:39:59,327 --> 01:40:01,037
"Yes, Bregman, what
can I do for you?"

1822
01:40:01,204 --> 01:40:06,251
And I'd say, well, Roy, that
was the beginning.

1823
01:40:11,381 --> 01:40:13,091
He was talking about going
into another business.

1824
01:40:13,258 --> 01:40:15,093
That's why I started
calling him Roy.

1825
01:40:15,260 --> 01:40:17,345
I said, you don't
own your name, pal.

1826
01:40:17,512 --> 01:40:18,388
Read the small print.

1827
01:40:18,555 --> 01:40:19,973
We own your name.

1828
01:40:24,436 --> 01:40:26,438
- This was all blowing up.

1829
01:40:27,647 --> 01:40:32,652
They said to me, "I want you
to go in and talk to him."

1830
01:40:32,819 --> 01:40:34,571
I was there that morning, too,
we were sitting, he and I,

1831
01:40:34,738 --> 01:40:38,032
in his office, till about
one, 1:30 in the morning.

1832
01:40:38,199 --> 01:40:41,369
And he said to me,
"We can do this."

1833
01:40:41,536 --> 01:40:43,663
I said, we can do what?

1834
01:40:43,830 --> 01:40:46,791
He said, "We can take this over

1835
01:40:46,958 --> 01:40:48,168
"and get it away
from the corporation

1836
01:40:48,334 --> 01:40:49,544
"and run it as an."

1837
01:40:49,711 --> 01:40:52,005
I said, Halston, it
would never work.

1838
01:40:52,172 --> 01:40:53,715
Where is this money
gonna come from?

1839
01:40:53,882 --> 01:40:57,010
I said, do you know how
much money you spend?

1840
01:40:57,177 --> 01:40:58,470
And how luxurious.

1841
01:40:59,721 --> 01:41:01,347
I said, just take
a look around.

1842
01:41:01,514 --> 01:41:03,433
You've had the
biggest and the best.

1843
01:41:03,600 --> 01:41:07,520
And this kind of money is
not gonna be found again.

1844
01:41:11,983 --> 01:41:15,695
- They requested, and I put
that in quotation marks,

1845
01:41:15,862 --> 01:41:18,656
that I not be present
at the meeting.

1846
01:41:21,159 --> 01:41:22,494
I'm sitting in my office,

1847
01:41:22,660 --> 01:41:25,371
and I felt like
having a cup of tea.

1848
01:41:25,538 --> 01:41:27,248
So I thought I'd go
into the kitchen.

1849
01:41:27,415 --> 01:41:30,627
I go to the door, put
my key in the lock,

1850
01:41:30,794 --> 01:41:32,170
key is not working.

1851
01:41:34,130 --> 01:41:35,715
I couldn't understand,
why the key?

1852
01:41:35,882 --> 01:41:38,426
So I run around
to the front door.

1853
01:41:39,719 --> 01:41:43,306
And there's a guy working on
the door there, a locksmith.

1854
01:41:43,473 --> 01:41:45,308
He's changing the locks.

1855
01:41:46,601 --> 01:41:48,603
I said, who hired you?

1856
01:41:48,770 --> 01:41:49,729
- Mr. Halston.

1857
01:41:50,980 --> 01:41:58,530
- I stormed into that meeting,
and I just blew my top.

1858
01:41:59,697 --> 01:42:02,200
Even his lawyer was shocked.

1859
01:42:02,367 --> 01:42:04,577
No, Halston
didn't change the locks.

1860
01:42:04,744 --> 01:42:05,912
He was locked out.

1861
01:42:07,831 --> 01:42:10,208
Carl admitted he
changed the locks.

1862
01:42:10,375 --> 01:42:12,085
- Job is done, Mr. Epstein.

1863
01:42:12,252 --> 01:42:13,753
- You
actually admitted it.

1864
01:42:13,920 --> 01:42:15,588
- I admitted it?

1865
01:42:15,755 --> 01:42:18,758
- In Women's Wear
Daily, several months later.

1866
01:42:18,925 --> 01:42:23,388
When there was a story about
trouble at the Olympic Tower.

1867
01:42:25,932 --> 01:42:29,853
- I said, look, that's
it, I've had it.

1868
01:42:30,019 --> 01:42:31,437
You know, I don't wanna
have to think about

1869
01:42:31,604 --> 01:42:33,022
somebody changing the locks.

1870
01:42:33,189 --> 01:42:35,733
Either he goes or I go.

1871
01:42:40,780 --> 01:42:43,032
- When Epstein gave 'em
the signal, they said,

1872
01:42:43,199 --> 01:42:45,577
"We're done, you're done."

1873
01:42:45,743 --> 01:42:49,455
And Halston was out.

1874
01:42:54,419 --> 01:42:56,129
- It was weird.

1875
01:42:56,296 --> 01:43:02,135
It was surreal that this coup
d'etat happened so quickly.

1876
01:43:07,140 --> 01:43:10,351
- I was very
heartbroken for him.

1877
01:43:10,518 --> 01:43:12,896
He was like a man
without a country.

1878
01:43:13,062 --> 01:43:14,272
The Halston name,

1879
01:43:15,815 --> 01:43:18,610
that was the most important
thing in his entire life,

1880
01:43:18,776 --> 01:43:23,031
could be used by
that corporation

1881
01:43:23,197 --> 01:43:24,616
without his consent.

1882
01:43:24,782 --> 01:43:28,328
- Halston Enterprises
and Organization MINE,

1883
01:43:28,494 --> 01:43:32,874
a symbolic signing of the
licensing agreement for Mexico.

1884
01:43:41,299 --> 01:43:42,175
- Hola.

1885
01:43:42,342 --> 01:43:44,344
♪ Halston ♪

1886
01:44:00,443 --> 01:44:02,278
- Week after
week, month after month,

1887
01:44:02,445 --> 01:44:06,324
he realized that he didn't
have much clout anymore

1888
01:44:06,491 --> 01:44:07,784
with the company.

1889
01:44:10,620 --> 01:44:11,913
- When one comes in
to make a company healthy,

1890
01:44:12,080 --> 01:44:15,458
it depends how
you define health.

1891
01:44:15,625 --> 01:44:17,502
- People were
suddenly at peace,

1892
01:44:17,669 --> 01:44:21,339
had comfortable jobs,
were not being shouted at.

1893
01:44:22,924 --> 01:44:24,342
- We had not much to do.

1894
01:44:24,509 --> 01:44:25,969
No movie star.

1895
01:44:26,135 --> 01:44:27,512
No celebrity.

1896
01:44:27,679 --> 01:44:30,890
JCPenney, and that's it.

1897
01:44:31,307 --> 01:44:33,142
And not even,
because at one point

1898
01:44:33,309 --> 01:44:35,186
they used to do
everything in China.

1899
01:44:35,353 --> 01:44:37,563
We just would send the pattern,

1900
01:44:37,730 --> 01:44:40,692
and they used to make
everything there.

1901
01:44:44,362 --> 01:44:45,738
- Carl told me one day

1902
01:44:45,905 --> 01:44:48,700
that he was gonna sell
off all the samples.

1903
01:44:53,746 --> 01:44:58,001
- That was his record
that should be in a museum,

1904
01:44:58,167 --> 01:45:01,671
and they decided to sell
those important pieces

1905
01:45:01,838 --> 01:45:04,090
for 25 bucks, 50 bucks apiece.

1906
01:45:08,177 --> 01:45:09,303
- But it was just
stuff sitting there,

1907
01:45:09,470 --> 01:45:11,848
year after year, doing nothing.

1908
01:45:15,977 --> 01:45:18,980
- Some pieces went here,
some pieces went there.

1909
01:45:19,147 --> 01:45:25,236
But the mother lode of it
is gone, eliminated, erased.

1910
01:45:26,070 --> 01:45:27,989
It was hostile.

1911
01:45:28,156 --> 01:45:30,158
- There was nothing
personal about it.

1912
01:45:30,324 --> 01:45:32,285
If you want to call
something personal,

1913
01:45:32,452 --> 01:45:33,828
I really didn't give a damn

1914
01:45:33,995 --> 01:45:36,497
what Halston's
reaction would be.

1915
01:45:36,664 --> 01:45:38,374
We were beyond that.

1916
01:45:38,541 --> 01:45:41,419
- Why not
give it to a museum?

1917
01:45:44,672 --> 01:45:45,882
- And then there was a bookcase

1918
01:45:46,049 --> 01:45:48,426
full of video
tapes of the shows.

1919
01:45:48,593 --> 01:45:50,178
Said to Carl, well,
I want these tapes.

1920
01:45:50,344 --> 01:45:52,388
He said, "No,
Halston has copies."

1921
01:45:54,223 --> 01:45:55,850
How do you do?

1922
01:45:56,017 --> 01:45:57,143
I'm Halston.

1923
01:45:57,310 --> 01:45:58,770
- Carl said he was
gonna erase them

1924
01:45:58,936 --> 01:46:01,898
and sell the blanks
to the next tenant.

1925
01:46:07,445 --> 01:46:09,238
- Everyone thinks you're
an overnight success.

1926
01:46:09,405 --> 01:46:12,033
I had worked very
hard for 20 years.

1927
01:46:12,200 --> 01:46:13,076
This is.

1928
01:46:13,242 --> 01:46:16,120
♪ Happy birthday to me ♪

1929
01:46:24,504 --> 01:46:27,215
- There is no home
in Iowa, you see.

1930
01:46:48,194 --> 01:46:50,822
- I really wanted
to show this photo.

1931
01:46:50,988 --> 01:46:55,451
So, my grandparents, this is
Hallie Mae and James Edward.

1932
01:46:57,662 --> 01:46:59,247
They were working class.

1933
01:46:59,413 --> 01:47:04,085
My grandmother, I'm not sure,
made it past ninth grade.

1934
01:47:04,252 --> 01:47:06,003
They had four children.

1935
01:47:07,922 --> 01:47:09,841
My father first.

1936
01:47:10,007 --> 01:47:13,719
And then Roy Halston
Frowick came along in 1932.

1937
01:47:18,057 --> 01:47:19,142
You know, times were tough.

1938
01:47:19,308 --> 01:47:21,561
Grew up in the Depression era.

1939
01:47:24,188 --> 01:47:26,649
Halston and my father weren't
close with their father.

1940
01:47:26,816 --> 01:47:29,527
They loved him, but
he had a temper.

1941
01:47:32,280 --> 01:47:34,615
My grandmother took
him under her wing

1942
01:47:34,782 --> 01:47:37,910
and was sort of protecting him.

1943
01:47:38,077 --> 01:47:42,456
She was a sweet, sweet,
soft-spoken, very mellow woman,

1944
01:47:42,623 --> 01:47:46,669
and you just felt
so calm around her.

1945
01:47:51,716 --> 01:47:54,760
When she passed away, Halston
was in the middle of JCPenney,

1946
01:47:54,927 --> 01:47:56,929
but he didn't tell
them anything.

1947
01:47:57,096 --> 01:47:59,265
He just said he had to leave.

1948
01:48:01,267 --> 01:48:02,894
He suffered silently.

1949
01:48:06,564 --> 01:48:10,067
Halston wasn't estranged
from his family per se,

1950
01:48:10,234 --> 01:48:12,528
it's just that the
family's very conservative.

1951
01:48:12,695 --> 01:48:16,490
He felt that they wouldn't
understand his lifestyle

1952
01:48:16,657 --> 01:48:19,368
with Victor there, and although
he was constantly trying

1953
01:48:19,535 --> 01:48:21,746
to get him out of his
life, and I was there.

1954
01:48:21,913 --> 01:48:23,581
And eventually he did.

1955
01:48:25,917 --> 01:48:29,086
I kept trying to tell him to
reconnect with his siblings,

1956
01:48:29,253 --> 01:48:31,255
telling him, they're
not gonna judge you.

1957
01:48:31,422 --> 01:48:33,090
The family's there for you.

1958
01:48:33,257 --> 01:48:35,676
And at a certain point,

1959
01:48:35,843 --> 01:48:39,305
I helped him organize the first
family reunion in Montauk.

1960
01:48:48,814 --> 01:48:51,108
He let his hair down

1961
01:48:51,275 --> 01:48:54,654
and was the brother that
he was 40 years prior.

1962
01:48:59,533 --> 01:49:02,828
But he was who he was,
so he had to plan it,

1963
01:49:02,995 --> 01:49:05,248
every moment of it.

1964
01:49:05,414 --> 01:49:08,584
They got all white sweat
suits for one event,

1965
01:49:08,751 --> 01:49:12,296
and they got all Army
uniforms for the safari.

1966
01:49:14,173 --> 01:49:16,759
- He loved life and you
could tell that about him.

1967
01:49:16,926 --> 01:49:17,969
You could tell.

1968
01:49:20,346 --> 01:49:25,101
- I think he just wanted,
maybe to slow down a little.

1969
01:49:25,268 --> 01:49:26,769
Being a regular person.

1970
01:49:28,104 --> 01:49:30,564
Here, he was Halston.

1971
01:49:30,731 --> 01:49:33,901
But I think inside,
he was, you know, Roy.

1972
01:49:38,781 --> 01:49:41,033
- It came to a
point where he said,

1973
01:49:41,200 --> 01:49:44,620
"I'm not gonna be able
to go back to designing,

1974
01:49:44,787 --> 01:49:47,290
"so you need to kind of
pursue your own life."

1975
01:49:47,456 --> 01:49:49,292
You know, he didn't
want to hold me back.

1976
01:49:49,458 --> 01:49:54,130
So I decided to
move to California.

1977
01:49:57,967 --> 01:50:00,803
It was a difficult
decision to make.

1978
01:50:00,970 --> 01:50:02,471
But I bought a car

1979
01:50:02,638 --> 01:50:04,932
and told him I wanted
to take him for a drive

1980
01:50:05,099 --> 01:50:08,269
up the Hudson River
to blow off the stink.

1981
01:50:12,064 --> 01:50:14,442
It was a beautiful,
sunny Sunday.

1982
01:50:14,608 --> 01:50:16,819
And at certain point,
through the chatter, he said,

1983
01:50:16,986 --> 01:50:19,322
"Well, I have to
tell you something."

1984
01:50:19,488 --> 01:50:20,906
And he revealed to
me at that point

1985
01:50:21,073 --> 01:50:23,034
that he was sick with HIV.

1986
01:50:24,493 --> 01:50:28,039
And I just shut down and
started freaking out.

1987
01:50:29,957 --> 01:50:32,668
And he said, "It's
not a death sentence."

1988
01:50:32,835 --> 01:50:34,879
So I did the stiff
upper lip thing,

1989
01:50:35,046 --> 01:50:37,298
'cause he didn't
like people to cry,

1990
01:50:37,465 --> 01:50:38,924
and just went
along with it like,

1991
01:50:39,091 --> 01:50:41,594
no, it's not a
death sentence, no.

1992
01:50:45,389 --> 01:50:46,891
But you have to remember,

1993
01:50:47,058 --> 01:50:49,393
so many people were
getting sick in those days.

1994
01:50:49,560 --> 01:50:52,313
- The fashion industry here
is being devastated by AIDS.

1995
01:50:52,480 --> 01:50:54,190
- When Perry
Ellis died in 1986,

1996
01:50:54,357 --> 01:50:56,192
his company denied
it was AIDS-related.

1997
01:50:56,359 --> 01:50:58,110
- There is no drug,
there is no treatment,

1998
01:50:58,277 --> 01:51:01,113
there's no vaccine, there's no
prevention, there is no cure.

1999
01:51:01,280 --> 01:51:03,074
- No one was beating it.

2000
01:51:04,575 --> 01:51:05,785
I was terrified.

2001
01:51:06,952 --> 01:51:09,205
I was scared for him.

2002
01:51:09,372 --> 01:51:10,498
- I didn't wanna leave.

2003
01:51:10,664 --> 01:51:12,124
I kept asking him
and asking him,

2004
01:51:12,291 --> 01:51:14,377
and even the last day I
said, I can stay here.

2005
01:51:14,543 --> 01:51:17,338
I can live here, I can be
your nurse, I can take you,

2006
01:51:17,505 --> 01:51:19,507
I can get your stuff if
you don't want to go out.

2007
01:51:19,673 --> 01:51:24,053
And he was like, "No, I
don't want you to do that."

2008
01:51:24,220 --> 01:51:27,306
So I left.

2009
01:51:37,400 --> 01:51:41,028
- He handled it the way
he had to handle it.

2010
01:51:41,195 --> 01:51:43,489
You know, denial, and then
fighting it and saying,

2011
01:51:43,656 --> 01:51:44,698
"No, this is not
gonna take me."

2012
01:51:44,865 --> 01:51:47,451
And then finally
realizing it had.

2013
01:51:59,213 --> 01:52:00,965
He decided to sell the house.

2014
01:52:15,980 --> 01:52:17,690
- He decided
he was gonna live

2015
01:52:17,857 --> 01:52:22,278
his last moments of his life
with his family in California.

2016
01:52:24,363 --> 01:52:26,657
He didn't want anybody to know,

2017
01:52:26,824 --> 01:52:30,828
so I didn't tell anybody
until I had to tell my dad.

2018
01:52:35,374 --> 01:52:39,587
- He left, and he
completely hid away

2019
01:52:39,753 --> 01:52:41,839
and didn't want
anybody to see him.

2020
01:52:42,006 --> 01:52:44,383
- We would write him letters.

2021
01:52:48,554 --> 01:52:51,432
- I did not know
that he was ill.

2022
01:52:51,599 --> 01:52:53,726
I wish I could call him now.

2023
01:52:56,187 --> 01:52:59,982
- That was a period
of people I knew

2024
01:53:00,733 --> 01:53:03,611
that they will never come back.

2025
01:53:03,777 --> 01:53:05,237
But I remember them.

2026
01:53:06,697 --> 01:53:08,782
I don't regret those times.

2027
01:53:08,949 --> 01:53:10,326
I am alone, though.

2028
01:53:11,827 --> 01:53:13,412
And you are a voyeur.

2029
01:53:16,582 --> 01:53:18,334
- I tried to find out
what was going on,

2030
01:53:18,501 --> 01:53:21,253
and then I heard the stories
that he was in California,

2031
01:53:21,420 --> 01:53:25,049
driving along the coast in
a convertible Rolls-Royce,

2032
01:53:25,216 --> 01:53:29,470
enjoying his life with his
sunglasses and his hands out,

2033
01:53:30,930 --> 01:53:32,473
enjoying the breeze.

2034
01:53:33,891 --> 01:53:35,392
That's how I see him.

2035
01:54:41,375 --> 01:54:46,005
- He passed away the night of
the Academy Awards, actually.

2036
01:54:46,755 --> 01:54:49,008
And his name was up on
a television screen.

2037
01:55:00,853 --> 01:55:03,606
We had a beautiful ceremony,

2038
01:55:03,772 --> 01:55:06,984
and we played Fanfare
for a Common Man.

2039
01:55:13,157 --> 01:55:14,450
Halston was a common man.

2040
01:55:14,617 --> 01:55:16,160
He came from nowhere.

2041
01:55:17,786 --> 01:55:21,582
At the end, he said, "I
just wanna fade away."

2042
01:55:21,749 --> 01:55:25,586
But as somebody like him,
he couldn't just fade away.

2043
01:55:29,965 --> 01:55:31,258
- The death of a great
American designer.

2044
01:55:31,425 --> 01:55:33,093
His name was Halston.

2045
01:55:33,260 --> 01:55:35,471
He was only 57 when
he died in California.

2046
01:55:35,638 --> 01:55:37,681
Yesterday he died as
the result of AIDS.

2047
01:55:37,848 --> 01:55:39,016
- With AIDS.
- The cause,

2048
01:55:39,183 --> 01:55:40,601
AIDS-related cancer.

2049
01:55:40,768 --> 01:55:44,605
- We profoundly hope that
it has a positive impact

2050
01:55:44,772 --> 01:55:47,232
on the public in becoming
increasingly aware

2051
01:55:47,399 --> 01:55:50,319
of this terrible problem,
and doing something about it.

2052
01:55:57,951 --> 01:55:59,662
- Five months later,

2053
01:55:59,828 --> 01:56:04,041
Halston Enterprises closed its
Olympic Tower headquarters.

2054
01:56:09,880 --> 01:56:11,715
Today, fashion is fast.

2055
01:56:13,926 --> 01:56:18,555
And high up above the streets,
in his beloved Olympic Tower,

2056
01:56:21,266 --> 01:56:23,227
a private investment firm.

2057
01:56:25,562 --> 01:56:27,898
It's morning again in America.

2058
01:56:30,317 --> 01:56:33,070
- Does it look
pretty much the same?

2059
01:56:35,197 --> 01:56:37,074
- Oh, sure it's fun
and it's not fun,

2060
01:56:37,241 --> 01:56:40,494
and it's upbeat and downbeat
and everything else, you know.

2061
01:56:40,661 --> 01:56:44,540
But as my mother says, it's
the price you have to pay.

2062
01:56:45,874 --> 01:56:46,583
Thank you.

2063
01:56:48,419 --> 01:56:49,253
Okay?

2064
01:56:49,420 --> 01:56:50,254
It's a wrap.

2065
01:57:06,353 --> 01:57:11,108
♪ I am for a life
around the corner ♪

2066
01:57:11,525 --> 01:57:15,946
♪ That takes you by surprise ♪

2067
01:57:16,113 --> 01:57:20,492
♪ That comes leaves
all you need ♪

2068
01:57:20,659 --> 01:57:22,870
♪ And more besides ♪

2069
01:57:23,036 --> 01:57:27,708
♪ I am for a life
and time by numbers ♪

2070
01:57:28,417 --> 01:57:32,796
♪ Blast in fast and low ♪

2071
01:57:32,963 --> 01:57:37,050
♪ Add 'em up,
account for luck ♪

2072
01:57:37,217 --> 01:57:39,636
♪ You never know ♪

2073
01:57:39,803 --> 01:57:44,767
♪ I am into friendship
and plain sailing ♪

2074
01:57:44,933 --> 01:57:49,146
♪ Through frenzied
ports o'call ♪

2075
01:57:49,313 --> 01:57:53,525
♪ O shake the hand
to beat the band ♪

2076
01:57:53,692 --> 01:57:56,195
♪ With love is all ♪

2077
01:57:56,361 --> 01:58:00,991
♪ Or nothing to the man
who wants tomorrow ♪

2078
01:58:01,617 --> 01:58:05,871
♪ There's one in every town ♪

2079
01:58:06,038 --> 01:58:10,417
♪ A crazy guy,
he'd rather die ♪

2080
01:58:10,584 --> 01:58:13,170
♪ Than be tied down ♪

2081
01:58:13,337 --> 01:58:18,091
♪ I am for the man who
drives the hammer ♪

2082
01:58:18,258 --> 01:58:22,638
♪ To rock you till the grave ♪

2083
01:58:22,805 --> 01:58:29,394
♪ His power drill shocks
a million miles away ♪

2084
01:58:29,978 --> 01:58:34,858
♪ I am for the
revolution's coming ♪

2085
01:58:35,025 --> 01:58:39,238
♪ I don't know
where she's been ♪

2086
01:58:39,404 --> 01:58:41,698
♪ For those who dare... ♪