Raf Simons 95-08
Helmut Lang
Martin Margiela(the man not the current label)
McQueen(for his women)
CCP

the second best:
issey miyake
massimo osti
Takahiro Miyashita
Dries van Noten
Ann D
Jun Takahashi pre 08
Yohji
Rei
Maurizio Altieri
Junya Watanabe
Dior and old YSL Hedi Slimane
Bless project

good:
SLP Hedi slimane
KVA
BBS
Rick owens Drkshdw
Geller
pre sell out Damir Doma
Patrick Ervell
Stephan Schneider
the viridi anne

irrelevant 'goth' derivative shit:
luc
ma+
julius
obscur
devoa
current damir doma

fallen from grace:
08-present Raf Simons
08-present Jun takahashi

cuckold shill kike tier:
rick owens
sruli recht