Advertisement
Guest User

/3DPG/ Pastebin v3.2

a guest
Aug 12th, 2020
15,504
0
Never
Not a member of Pastebin yet? Sign Up, it unlocks many cool features!
text 13.41 KB | None | 0 0
  1. /3DPG/ Pastebin v3.2 - Last updated 12-8-2020
  2.  
  3. >General info
  4. 3D-printing is the common name for what is technically called additive manufacturing. Traditionally, manufacturing methods used to be subtractive: you start with some material, take a lathe/mill/hammer/whatever and remove all material that is not the end product. Additive manufacturing start out with nothing and adds material in just the right places to form an end product.
  5.  
  6. The most common forms of 3D-printing for hobbyists right now are FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) and SLA (Stereolithography), with FDM being the most common and most discussed type in /3DPG/: most of the information in this pastebin applies to FDM. FDM boils down to taking filament (basically plastic wire in a standardised thickness) and shoving it through a heated nozzle. That nozzle is then moved in three dimensions (hence the name 3D-printing) to deposit the heated material, allowing it to cool and form the end product.
  7.  
  8. Workflow for 3D-printing is as follows:
  9. >Obtain a 3D-printer, assembly if necessary
  10. >Obtain filament
  11. >Design a product using CAD
  12. >Turn CAD file into machine code using slicing software
  13. >Start printing
  14. >Fail
  15. >Troubleshoot
  16. >Repeat last few steps untill succesful
  17.  
  18. Some recommended reading on the subject:
  19. https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base
  20. https://www.3dhubs.com/what-is-3d-printing
  21. https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki
  22. The 3D-Printing Handbook, Ben Redwood
  23. Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker
  24.  
  25. >Buyers guide
  26. For a more up to date version of this guide, always check the OP. Also, do your own damn research or you risk the fact that OP is shilling chinkshit meaning you end up with useless garbage.
  27.  
  28. What is chinkshit you ask? Succesful printers like the Ultimaker, Prusa i3, Ender 3 or CR-10 get cloned in China within months and can then be found on sites like Banggood and Alibaba. Their quality can vary wildly, although their instruction manuals and warranty are almost universally useless, therefore: chinkshit. Some of the common ones are Anet, Anycubic, Dalai Lama, Creality, Geeetech, JGAurora, Tiananmen 1989, Tevo, Tronxy, Uyghur Autonomic Region and Xiaomi.
  29.  
  30. Not too long ago the golden standard used to be the Prusa i3 (still is, really). It offers great quality prints at a price well below 1000 USD, which was amazing when it was released. A homebuilt Reprap could do the same, sure, but the Prusa kickstarted an industry where manufacturers would build a reliable printer for you without all the required knowledge, thus making 3D-printing accessible to a widder audience. The i3 is not a perfect printer, but it's still a good benchmark to compare against and is arguably the best printer you can buy for 1000 USD.
  31. Then came the Creality Ender 3: basically a heavily improved i3 for a fraction of the price. It's probably the best printer per dollar on the market right now, although it's still chinkshit and should be considered as such. Most printers in the 200 USD bracket are chinkshit though, and the Ender 3 is king of the shitheap. Buy the Pro version if you can spare a few extra dollars. Some anons have good experiences with the Anycubic Mega series too, if you are considering a printer for less than 250 USD. In both cases: buy the most expensive one you can reasonably afford, the addons are usually worth it.
  32. Want to go bigger than the standard 220x220mm buildplate? Don't mind spending up to 500 USD? Consider the CR-10, which is basically an upsized (300x300mm) Ender 3 with some minor mechanical improvements. The Anycubic Chiron is a copy of the CR-10S4, so bigger (400x400), but it also packs more features and can be considered better value. If you don't mind a smaller build volume than either, but want more features, some anons have had good experiences with the Qidi X-series, which should slot nicely into this budget.
  33. Do you want to spend more than 1000 USD? Are you really sure? Consider a Lulzbot, Ultimaker or Markforged if you've got this much money to spare, or buy several of the aforementioned cheaper models. More is always better, unless it isn't.
  34. In case you want an SLA printer, /3dpg/ recommends the Anycubic Photon ($), Elegoo Mars ($$) Prusa SL1 ($$$) and Formlabs Form 3 ($$$$).
  35.  
  36. Regardless of the type of printer you want to buy, don't take the advice in this pastebin as gospel, do your own damn research.
  37.  
  38. https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide [Outdated as per 1-1-2020]
  39.  
  40. >Filament
  41. This stuff is the food of your 3D-printer: feed it garbage, and it will shit on your carpet. Simply put a spool of filament is just a roll of plastic wire. Sounds simple right? The main problem manufacturing this stuff is controlling chemical composition and ensuring a consistent diameter of the filament, which is not as easy as it sounds. Buy name brand stuff if you're starting out, only with some experience should you move on to the cheap and possibly unreliable stuff. Remember: there's nothing more expensive than a failed print.
  42. Filament comes in different materials and different diameters (usually 1.75 and 2.85mm). The most common materials right now are PLA, ABS and PET(G). PLA is really easy to print with and should be your starting material. ABS is stronger but much harder to print, which explains the popularity of PET: it has most of the strength of ABS without the printing difficulties. Beyond these there's about a dozen reasonably common materials, each with their own material properties, printing temperatures, speeds and difficulty level. Engineering-grade materials such as carbon-filled nylon can be extremely strong and are becoming more and more common, but can be extremely demanding to print with.
  43. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/28-material-guide
  44. http://www.matterhackers.com/3d-printer-filament-compare
  45.  
  46. >Troubleshooting
  47. Troubleshooting what went wrong on your last print is an art to be mastered. Simplify3D has a great guide on their website, if that fails, use the other two below. If that doesn't work, post your failure in the thread, we can then have a laugh at you and possibly come up with a solution. If you don't post enough information, you're less likely to get an answer, so post as much details as possible. Ignore the ''Should have bought a Prusa''-retard.
  48. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
  49.  
  50. https://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
  51. https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
  52.  
  53. >Where to get 3d models?
  54. There are huge online communities where people share 3D files to be printed, some of them are mentioned below:
  55. https://www.thingiverse.com/
  56. https://www.grabcad.com/
  57.  
  58. https://www.yeggi.com/
  59. https://www.youmagine.com/
  60. https://www.myminifactory.com/
  61. https://www.3d-druck-community.de/showthread.php?tid=214
  62.  
  63. >Making 3D models yourself
  64. 3D-printing requires CAD-software (Computer Aided Design) and a design (duh). Optimising your design for 3D-printing can make a huge difference in both print time and failure rate:
  65. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing
  66.  
  67. As for CAD-software, There is often heavy debate over which CAD is best CAD, being 4chan and all.
  68. Let's get free-forming out of the way first: Blender is probably your best bet there.
  69. This leaves ''Engineering'' programs, which divide the userbase. /g/tards will regularly come in and claim anything that's not FOSS such as OpenSCAD and FreeCAD is infringing upon your digital freedom and should be discarded.
  70. Most of Autodesks programs (Fusion360, Inventor, AutoCAD) are indeed guilty of this, but here's the problem: they are usually ''free'' to hobbyists like you and me, and they are orders of magnitude easier to learn to work with.
  71. So therein lies your choice: be a truely free man wrought with the difficulties of working in a /g/entooman's wet dream, or lose that freedom to have a CAD-software that just works.
  72. You could bypass the moral issue and pirate last year's Solidworks, but if you get caught that's your problem.
  73. https://www.blender.org/
  74. https://www.onshape.com/
  75. https://www.openscad.org/
  76. https://www.freecadweb.org/
  77. https://www.solidworks.com/
  78. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
  79. https://www.autodesk.com/products/inventor
  80. https://www.autodesk.com/products/autocad/
  81.  
  82. >Slicers
  83. Once you've made a design in CAD, you can then export it as .stl (Standard Triangle Language) or .3MF (3D-manufacturing format).
  84. These files types can then be used by a slicer program, which then slices (hence the name) it into layers for your machine to print.
  85. These layers can then be exported to your machine in .3MF or .gcode (machine code) format, through an SD-card or cable connection.
  86.  
  87. The three biggest slicing programs right now are Cura, Slic3r and Simplify3D, each has it's pros and cons.
  88. Cura is free, will suit most amateurs just fine with an easy interface, and yet has enough depth to it for expert-level users.
  89. Simplify costs money (but is easy to pirate) and has slightly more expansive options than Cura does.
  90. Final choice would be Slic3r, the OG open source slicer - the perfect choice if you're a /g/entoomen running some wierd Linux distro. Some printers come with their own slicer, which can be a mixed bag. The Prusa fork of Slic3r (Prusaslicer) is pretty good though.
  91.  
  92. >Open source community
  93. Not just the slicing component can be open source: the entire printer you build can be. Several projects have existed that are at the foundation of the hobbyist 3D-printing movement, chief of which is the Reprap project. The Prusa i3 and it's clones are all based on Reprap architecture, meaning that most of the amateur level market consists of these things. Note that not all printers have to be cartesian-style (XYZ): the Reprap community has experimented with almost every different kinematics system under the sun, including extremely complex ones and also every possible combination of the X-, Y- and Z-axis.
  94.  
  95. https://reprap.org/wiki/
  96. https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Machines
  97. https://reprap.org/wiki/Mechanical_arrangement
  98. https://forums.reprap.org/
  99. https://forum.duet3d.com/
  100. #RepRap @freenode
  101.  
  102. >Calibrating a printer
  103. https://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
  104. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Wb0i0-Qvo
  105. https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer
  106. https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide
  107. https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints
  108.  
  109. >Hotend
  110. E3D and their V6 hotend are the industry standard right now if you want to build your own printer.
  111. Micro-Swiss offers a lot of ready-to-go kits to upgrade existing printers, might want to check those out.
  112. If you need high temperatures (>300C), consider a Prometheus V2 or B3 Pico. For sheer print speed, the E3D Volcano is hard to beat.
  113.  
  114. >Extruder
  115. Bondtech/BMG extruders are probably the best in the market right now - but also the most expensive (hint: chinkshit clones exist).
  116. A good alternative would be the E3D Titan or Hemera.
  117. You could also stick it to the man and print your own: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2289203
  118.  
  119. >SLA Printing
  120. SLA printing is different from filament in that it uses a laser to solidify resin against a buildplate, thus resulting in a buildup of layers. The resolution is much higher than FDM printers, but SLA printing is much more involved in that it involves handling noxious resin, washing the part after printing with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and curing it with UV. Strength is also a mixed bag, but with careful resin selection you can get some practical end results. That said, SLA printing is very popular in /3DPG/ for people printing miniatures for tabletop or waifus.
  121.  
  122. Resins and their curing time:
  123. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1crvzMnt_8NJXAsABinoIhcOjE8l3h7s0L82Zlh1vkL8/htmlview?sle=true#gid=0
  124.  
  125.  
  126.  
  127. >How to make a new /3DPG/ thread
  128. Only make a new thread when the old ones is well past bumplimit. /diy/ is a slow board so the thread won't die within a day, when it hits page 5 you might as well make a new thread. Make a link in the old thread to the new one, remember to put /3DPG/ in the subject line, and use the copypasta below.
  129.  
  130. Save some of the images from the previous thread, upload them to:
  131. https://www.befunky.com/
  132. Use them to create an new image for the OP.
  133.  
  134.  
  135.  
  136. >Copypasta
  137. [Edition] Edition
  138. Old thread: >>[Post number of previous thread]
  139. All the info you need about 3D-printing: [Link to this pastebin]
  140.  
  141. >Your print failed? Go to:
  142. https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
  143.  
  144. If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
  145. >A picture of the failed part
  146. >Printer make & model
  147. >Filament type/brand
  148. >Slicer & slicer settings
  149.  
  150. >What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
  151. Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S
  152. Under 500 USD: Qidi X-series, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Chiron
  153. Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3
  154. Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot, Ultimaker, Markforged
  155. SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3
  156. Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/
  157.  
  158. >Where can I get free things to print?
  159. https://www.thingiverse.com/
  160. https://grabcad.com/
  161. https://google.com/
  162.  
  163. >What CAD software should I use?
  164. Variants of professional programs such as Solidworks, Fusion360, Inventor and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
  165. Most anons use Fusion360, some /g/entoomen prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do free-forming and modeling, Blender is your best bet.
Advertisement
Add Comment
Please, Sign In to add comment
Advertisement