Eng Free Solo (2018)

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Subtitles by explosiveskull

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Our next guest is a free soloing
phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold.

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Here is what I
don't understand.

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One little mistake, one little
slip, and you fall and die.

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Yeah, I mean, uh, you
seem to understand it well...

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- Yeah.
- Yeah.

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And I feel like anybody could
conceivably die on any given day.

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Soloing makes it feel far more
immediate and much more present.

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Does it feel different
to be up there without a rope?

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When you're climbing without
a rope, it's obviously like

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much higher consequence, much,
much higher level of focus.

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You know, it's a whole
different experience.

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So it's not like I'm just
pushing and pushing and pushing

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until something
terrible happens.

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I don't look at it, like,
with that perspective.

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But maybe that's why
it's dangerous for me.

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Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't
tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff.

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Okay.

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I like to differentiate
between risk and consequence.

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You know, when I'm doing these hard free
solos I like to think that the risk,

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you know, the chance
of me falling off is

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quite low even though the
consequence is extremely high.

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And that's kind of like one of the
appeals of free soloing, you know,

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to take something that seems difficult
and dangerous and make it feel safe.

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So, do you think that, uh, being a rock
climber has been a positive or negative

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for your dating life?

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My dating life?

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Yeah.

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I think, uh, I think
overall it's been a negative.

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Um, I just travel too
much and I live in a car.

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Let's talk through some of
the climbing adventures you've had.

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The historic free solo
climb, Moonlight Buttress.

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When I did it, it was like,
"Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking,

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kind of extreme.

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But for me it always felt
quite easy and pretty secure.

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Well, that wasn't where you
stopped, because that next challenge then

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was free soloing Half Dome.

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Half Dome was a huge step for me
because it was twice as big as anything

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I'd ever soloed.

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<i>Free soloing is so
dangerous that less than 1% of people</i>

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<i>who climb attempt it.</i>

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<i>Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo
climbs, but none were tougher than this one.</i>

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I got quite scared in some places,
and then you start to panic a little bit.

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And then you have to,
like, reel it all back in.

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What is next in
free solo climbing?

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Well, I don't know, I mean,
I've thought about El Cap, like,

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for years and every
year I look at it and I'm like,

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"That's really scary."

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Um, well, I've never even wanted to
really, or I've always wanted to but then

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I've always been like,
"That's too scary."

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I'm aiming towards the most
beautiful valley on earth.

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I remember coming to Yosemite as a little
kid and my dad would always have a little

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cooler in the back of the car, and
have our cookies in the cold milk,

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and we'd sit on these slabs above
Tunnel View, which is, like,

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the most epic
view of Yosemite.

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As soon as you see El Cap it's like,
"Oh, there it is, pretty exciting."

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El Cap is the most
impressive wall on earth.

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Yeah, I mean I love,
I love being in the van.

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I probably feel extra comfortable
in the van now because I've lived

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in it for nine years.

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My first van, well, I actually
stole the family minivan.

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My dad died when I was
19 and I, I quit school.

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There was some life insurance.

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I had just enough to dirt bag.

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Six years ago I was living in a Walmart
parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents

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on dinner every night.

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Living in a van is great but, you know,
at a certain point it'd be nice to have a

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bathroom and have,
like, a shower at least.

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So you have a
girlfriend now, I heard.

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- Hmm, trending towards one.
- Trending towards?

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Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive
about, like, you know, you have to do you.

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Yeah we'll, we'll see.

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But yeah, there probably will be
plenty of girlfriends in my life,

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you know, in terms of,
like, big climbing,

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lifetime achievement deals,
where you're just like, well,

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like I will always choose
climbing, over, over a lady.

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At least, you know, so far.

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How many times have
you climbed El Cap?

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Probably like 40
something maybe.

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- You ever free solo? -No and nobody has.
- Why haven't you done it yet?

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Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know,
think about it, it's freaking scary.

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I don't know, so I mean I've thought about
this since 2009, like, each year since 2009,

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I've been like, "This is the year,"
and each year I climb it and I'm like,

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"This isn't the year, like,
this is fucked," you know.

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So I'm like, "Uh." But the
thing is I'll never be content,

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unless I at least
put in the effort.

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Because, like, if I do all the work and
I'm still like, "This is messed up,"

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then maybe it's just not for me,
maybe its future generation, you know.

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Or maybe just somebody who
has nothing to live for.

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When I thought about El Cap years ago, there
were question marks all over the walls.

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It's like I don't know about this
pitch, I don't know about that pitch,

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like I don't know about this particular
slab, there are all these things that

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seem pretty crazy to me.

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If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap,
then I need a good map of what that will

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take, you know, like a, a mental image of
what the hard parts are, where they are,

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what they will entail.

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If I'm going to do it, Free
Rider seems like the best route.

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Oh, hi.

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What's up, dude?

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Oh, hey.

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Oh, actually, I might as well just
rack it straight onto my harness.

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So, do you wanna lead
the Freeblast or do I?

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I feel like we should do what we did
before which would be you lead the, yeah,

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you lead the Freeblast.

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So, basically I'll just try
to take it, like, as far as I can.

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Yeah.

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So Tommy just got here
and they're going up Freerider.

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Okay.

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I'm just gonna try to shoot this
pitch and the traverse pitch and then

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I'm gonna jug out
like a maniac.

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Okay.

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Do we have enough line
up there to do all this?

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- Yeah.
- Okay.

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The idea of going up
on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell

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is to get a feel for the
route and just visualize it.

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To see what feels
scary and what doesn't.

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Oh, God.

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Look at those fixed ropes
the first climb.

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Tommy's been a hero
of mine since I was a kid.

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I didn't technically have posters
of him up in my room as a kid,

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but it was like the same deal, you know,
where I was like, "Tommy's the man."

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Tommy really showed what was
possible, free climbing on El Cap.

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Tommy is the one that explored
every aspect of the wall.

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And most of the routes that he's put up on El
Cap haven't been repeated because they're,

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they're basically too hard.

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And then, ultimately culminated
with the Dawn Wall which was his

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multi-year project.

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I mean possibly the hardest
big wall in the world.

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I've been obsessed
with El Cap for years.

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El Capitan is unbelievably
huge, kind of unfathomably huge.

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It's 3,200 feet
of sheer granite.

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Looking at it, it doesn't seem
right, it doesn't seem like you

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should be able to climb it.

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I understand why
Alex is obsessed.

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El Cap has obsessed
generations of climbers.

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I think it was first climbed in 1958 by
Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days

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over 16 months because they
couldn't do it continuously.

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They had to drill bolts into the
granite and pull themselves up.

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And then ever since then, it's been the
center of the rock climbing universe.

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I've spent 20 years of my life climbing
El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope.

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There's no margin for error.

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Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic
achievement, that if you don't get that

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gold medal you're gonna die.

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That's pretty much what
free soloing El Cap is like.

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You have to do it perfectly.

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Today I am playing through
a lot of different scenarios,

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so thinking about the moves,
thinking about the body position,

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and more than anything just thinking
about what it would feel like to,

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to be in that position
without a rope.

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There are a lot of things that
you can physically do on a rope.

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Oh, God.

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But then the idea of taking the
rope away, you're just like,

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"I don't know if I'd wanna trust
that little foothold. Oh, my God,

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my feet hurt so bad and I'm
so pumped and my hand hurts.

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I just feel pooped.

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We're kind of getting worked.

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When you've been thinking about something
for years, that's a long time to be,

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like, sort of considering an idea without,
like, really talking to anybody about it.

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Especially someone like Tommy.

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When I was climbing, like, up the
endurance corner and across the traverse,

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I was just looking down thinking about,
I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary."

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I don't know.

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That part is just
so exposed and it's pretty.

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See, that part again is like, at
least you have holds though, you know.

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Yeah.

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The Freeblast slabs have
like several moves where it's like,

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your whole life just depends
on one foothold, you know.

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Soloing is like such a
weird personal activity.

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You never talk about
soloing projects.

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I mean, I've done all my
soloing without telling anybody,

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because I don't want
any extra pressure.

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The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I
get interview questions about it all the

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time, like, "Oh, would
you like to do that?"

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And I've always been like,

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"No, well maybe, we'll see.
You know, who knows?"

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But like in the back of your mind
you're like, "Yes, for sure."

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I used to be like
a super picky eater.

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When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like,
20 and 24, I basically decided that I had

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to start eating vegetables, and then
sort of, like, systematically introduced

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myself to vegetables, like one at
a time, which worked pretty well,

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now I pretty much
eat anything.

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I stopped eating meat maybe
three or four years ago, um,

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mostly for
environmental reasons.

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Then once I stopped I also kind of got
into the ethics of it a little bit more.

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We'll just see how
this comes out.

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Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who
probably think that this is, like, terrible.

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I'm eating, like,
canned chili and eggs.

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Growing up, I mean, I didn't
like eating weird foods,

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I didn't like bugs, you know,
I was just like a total tweeker.

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I guess I was
quite a shy child.

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Bit of a dark soul, I think.

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Maybe melancholic is the word.

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I remember really liking to play with
my Legos and play computer games and,

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uh, and then obviously once I started
rock climbing I was going to the

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climbing gym all the time.

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But I didn't really have a whole
lot of hobbies or interests.

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I definitely wasn't
cool, you know.

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I grew up in Sacramento and the
high school I went to, I was, uh,

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in an international baccalaureate
program, so we were all sort of

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the intellectual kids.

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So, in a way it was fine to be sort
of a dorky loner cause, you know,

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the whole program was
focused around that.

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There was definitely a time when I started
climbing outside more and I was just

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starting to road trip
and go to campgrounds,

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but I was too afraid
to talk to strangers.

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So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or
just a lot of climbing by myself just

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because I didn't know anybody and
I didn't wanna talk to anybody.

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It's freaking good,
I've outdone myself.

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Spicy chili really
adds something.

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As a kid I just love climbing trees
and climbing buildings and, like,

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playing on things.

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And when I was going to school here I was also
climbing on all the roofs and stuff here.

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Uh, and, uh, yeah.

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It's actually kind of intimidating
talking to groups of kids.

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Like, when I was in high school
I was mortified of standing in

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front of the class.

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But, like, you kind of get through
it and, like, eventually you feel

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more and more comfortable.

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I don't know.

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- There's a question.
- Um, yeah.

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How do you feel about being
famous, just for, like,

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turning your hobby
into your career?

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I mean, I think it's the best thing in
life to be able to take the one thing

224
00:15:50,240 --> 00:15:53,373
you love most and have it, like, work
out that you can make a living that way.

225
00:15:53,375 --> 00:15:55,609
You know, so it's nice that I
now get paid to do that, yeah.

226
00:15:55,611 --> 00:15:57,814
How much money do you have?

227
00:16:00,350 --> 00:16:03,586
I've got, I've got, I've got probably
like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know.

228
00:16:04,287 --> 00:16:06,387
Um, but no, like,
a, a fair amount.

229
00:16:06,389 --> 00:16:11,592
Um, like, like, you know, say, like,
a moderately successful dentist

230
00:16:11,594 --> 00:16:13,764
or something, probably.

231
00:16:14,029 --> 00:16:15,662
Mr. K?

232
00:16:15,664 --> 00:16:18,398
Alex, could you talk about your
foundation a bit and what you're doing?

233
00:16:18,400 --> 00:16:21,804
Yeah, so, I started a non-profit,
um, I guess maybe four years ago.

234
00:16:22,172 --> 00:16:25,408
Let's watch this piece of video
so you're gonna get a little taste of that.

235
00:16:27,177 --> 00:16:30,710
Climbing has allowed me to travel all
over the world, which has really opened my

236
00:16:30,712 --> 00:16:32,882
eyes to how the rest
of the world lives.

237
00:16:33,582 --> 00:16:36,349
I mean, I see all these people, I mean
they're like a billion people on Earth

238
00:16:36,351 --> 00:16:37,718
without access to power.

239
00:16:37,720 --> 00:16:39,853
And so I started my foundation
sort of as an attempt to, like,

240
00:16:39,855 --> 00:16:41,455
balance the cosmic scales.

241
00:16:41,457 --> 00:16:45,358
So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a
third of my income every year through the

242
00:16:45,360 --> 00:16:47,361
foundation to, like,
environmental non-profits.

243
00:16:47,363 --> 00:16:49,530
I mean, so, like off-grid solar
projects, things like that, like,

244
00:16:49,532 --> 00:16:52,802
things that lift people out of
poverty, but also help the Earth.

245
00:17:07,817 --> 00:17:09,549
Ah, you get out.

246
00:17:09,551 --> 00:17:12,155
- Oh, hi.
- Hi.

247
00:17:15,857 --> 00:17:18,394
I met Sanni, book
touring in Seattle.

248
00:17:18,961 --> 00:17:22,432
And then we just have been
hanging out ever since.

249
00:17:22,632 --> 00:17:25,600
I think, I think this is our very first date
in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing,

250
00:17:25,602 --> 00:17:27,701
like, a very easy
multi-pitch together.

251
00:17:27,703 --> 00:17:30,738
Um, you know I just took her up
this big tall route because then,

252
00:17:30,740 --> 00:17:32,974
I kind of knew it
would blow her mind.

253
00:17:32,976 --> 00:17:33,975
Is she a climber?

254
00:17:33,977 --> 00:17:37,245
Um, Sanni's like a
little bit of a climber.

255
00:17:37,247 --> 00:17:41,552
She, she's just starting but I'd
hardly characterize her as a climber.

256
00:17:42,853 --> 00:17:46,019
You see straight in front of us, there's
like an depression that looks like a heart.

257
00:17:46,021 --> 00:17:46,955
Yeah.

258
00:17:46,957 --> 00:17:49,457
To the left of that,
that's Freerider.

259
00:17:49,459 --> 00:17:51,992
This is like the whole valley,
like, we're driving in this highway.

260
00:17:51,994 --> 00:17:53,295
Uh-hmm.

261
00:17:53,297 --> 00:17:54,429
And then this is, like, the
valley loop from here to here,

262
00:17:54,431 --> 00:17:56,764
the main rocks are all,
like, between here and here.

263
00:17:56,766 --> 00:17:59,903
Okay, oh, maybe
I should read this.

264
00:18:00,737 --> 00:18:02,873
No.

265
00:18:03,105 --> 00:18:06,509
Alex was giving a talk in
Seattle, in December last year.

266
00:18:06,742 --> 00:18:09,643
I didn't know anything
about him and I showed up.

267
00:18:09,645 --> 00:18:11,746
Wait, you're wearing the same
shirt in half these photos.

268
00:18:11,748 --> 00:18:12,912
I know.

269
00:18:12,914 --> 00:18:14,414
Oh, Alex.

270
00:18:14,416 --> 00:18:16,683
Well, because I don't have
anybody to help me with my wardrobe.

271
00:18:16,685 --> 00:18:20,923
Oh and then, when I got my
book signed, I gave him my number.

272
00:18:24,460 --> 00:18:27,730
Which was sort of a joke with
a friend but then evolved.

273
00:18:28,565 --> 00:18:33,467
I just thought he was really
cute but also brutally honest,

274
00:18:33,469 --> 00:18:35,635
but I'm really drawn to that.

275
00:18:35,637 --> 00:18:38,005
Whoa, look how
precariously balanced it is.

276
00:18:38,007 --> 00:18:40,507
But he's also just
a funny guy, he's weird.

277
00:18:40,509 --> 00:18:43,579
You know, a weird dude,
and I find it interesting.

278
00:18:44,180 --> 00:18:45,946
Oh, we tree
pose on the tree?

279
00:18:45,948 --> 00:18:47,146
It's not wobbling.

280
00:18:47,148 --> 00:18:49,717
It's totally wobbling,
what are you talking about.

281
00:18:49,719 --> 00:18:51,852
Just for you.

282
00:18:51,854 --> 00:18:54,857
- I'm waiting. ALEX: Oh.
- Okay.

283
00:18:59,528 --> 00:19:00,995
When you start
getting eaten by mosquitoes,

284
00:19:00,997 --> 00:19:02,697
feel free to
just start climbing.

285
00:19:02,699 --> 00:19:04,765
Just keep the Grigri on.

286
00:19:04,767 --> 00:19:06,534
I'll wait.

287
00:19:06,536 --> 00:19:09,038
Okay, whatever
you're comfy with.

288
00:19:11,574 --> 00:19:13,673
Having the girlfriend
in the van is awesome.

289
00:19:13,675 --> 00:19:17,545
I mean, she's cute and small and,
like, livens the place up a bit,

290
00:19:17,547 --> 00:19:19,880
doesn't take up too much room.

291
00:19:19,882 --> 00:19:23,487
I mean, it's, pretty much
makes life better in every way.

292
00:19:25,621 --> 00:19:28,525
Alex, you got me tight?

293
00:19:30,727 --> 00:19:33,530
This is nerve-racking.

294
00:19:41,136 --> 00:19:46,841
When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him
come down the final section and the rope

295
00:19:46,843 --> 00:19:48,709
went right through the
Grigri, right through my hands,

296
00:19:48,711 --> 00:19:51,746
and right through the Grigri
and he dropped to the ground.

297
00:19:51,748 --> 00:19:54,084
It was my fault that I didn't
watch the end of the rope.

298
00:19:55,018 --> 00:19:58,587
It was just like, "Oh, my
gosh, what have I done?"

299
00:20:00,189 --> 00:20:03,023
The x-ray didn't show much, but
then they took the CAT scan and then they

300
00:20:03,025 --> 00:20:04,959
said it was, like, two
compression fractures and.

301
00:20:04,961 --> 00:20:07,094
But they only focused on
they didn't focus on the lower.

302
00:20:07,096 --> 00:20:11,034
Right after it happened
I wanted to break up with her.

303
00:20:11,233 --> 00:20:15,402
I was like, "Oh, this is bad
for my climbing." But she said,

304
00:20:15,404 --> 00:20:17,805
"Is that really gonna
make your life any better?"

305
00:20:17,807 --> 00:20:20,408
I was like,
"No, probably not."

306
00:20:20,410 --> 00:20:23,947
This is gonna feel a
little uncomfortable.

307
00:20:24,380 --> 00:20:25,779
I said, you know,

308
00:20:25,781 --> 00:20:28,882
"I think we can move past this
and I think you could have it all.

309
00:20:28,884 --> 00:20:32,823
I think that you could have a
steady girlfriend and climb."

310
00:20:33,722 --> 00:20:35,890
Exhale.

311
00:20:35,892 --> 00:20:38,926
As it turns out, compression
fracture isn't too serious.

312
00:20:38,928 --> 00:20:41,796
They said that I could climb and just
be careful about pain management and

313
00:20:41,798 --> 00:20:44,768
all that stuff.

314
00:20:44,968 --> 00:20:47,802
But it's just a
little bit rattling.

315
00:20:47,804 --> 00:20:50,837
Because I definitely know some people who
have fallen super far and survived or,

316
00:20:50,839 --> 00:20:53,507
like, gone through a tree
and sort of been okay.

317
00:20:53,509 --> 00:20:57,178
And now I'm like, "I don't know,
like, I don't think I'd be okay."

318
00:20:57,180 --> 00:21:00,847
And so I imagine falling free soloing
or something from 50 meters up, I mean,

319
00:21:00,849 --> 00:21:03,619
I realize that my body would
just explode on impact.

320
00:21:20,736 --> 00:21:23,903
In 2012, I was here for the first
time and it was right before I went to

321
00:21:23,905 --> 00:21:27,743
Yosemite for the season, and that was
like my best Yosemite season ever.

322
00:21:39,622 --> 00:21:41,154
What was that, Alex?

323
00:21:41,156 --> 00:21:43,157
I said you just passed halfway
and, uh, the rope's actually looking

324
00:21:43,159 --> 00:21:45,962
pretty good now.

325
00:21:46,996 --> 00:21:49,930
Yeah, pretty nice rock.

326
00:21:49,932 --> 00:21:53,437
I think the climbing here in Morocco,
it's good training for El Cap.

327
00:21:55,172 --> 00:21:58,738
It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get
him good at moving through the mountains,

328
00:21:58,740 --> 00:22:01,677
it's gonna make him feel fit.

329
00:22:07,583 --> 00:22:11,955
Flowing through the mountains in the
ways that you do with Alex is addicting.

330
00:22:15,625 --> 00:22:20,029
His attitude towards risk, it
makes you feel kind of invincible,

331
00:22:24,232 --> 00:22:29,873
which is emotionally appealing, but for
me I don't think it's the smartest thing.

332
00:22:33,542 --> 00:22:35,042
Ah!

333
00:22:35,044 --> 00:22:38,682
Climbing with Alex is,
it's like a vice in a way.

334
00:22:39,749 --> 00:22:42,917
It's like smoking cigarettes
with beer or something.

335
00:22:42,919 --> 00:22:46,085
It's like, I don't really wanna do it but
I just, like, let myself do it sometimes

336
00:22:46,087 --> 00:22:47,287
because it's kinda nice.

337
00:22:47,289 --> 00:22:50,793
- Yeah, buddy!
- Yo!

338
00:22:56,731 --> 00:22:59,699
Can you read me your
journal entry for today?

339
00:22:59,701 --> 00:23:03,205
It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen
crux, two pumped, need more fitness."

340
00:23:06,008 --> 00:23:09,910
Do you ever put things like "Saw
the biggest juniper tree of my life"?

341
00:23:09,912 --> 00:23:12,145
No, not in the
climbing journal.

342
00:23:12,147 --> 00:23:15,716
- Miss my dog.
- No.

343
00:23:15,718 --> 00:23:17,750
- And my mom.
- I don't know, none?

344
00:23:17,752 --> 00:23:20,256
- No, no.
- No. -All right.

345
00:23:32,701 --> 00:23:36,970
Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down
partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at

346
00:23:36,972 --> 00:23:38,905
the bottom of the gully
going into the base.

347
00:23:38,907 --> 00:23:40,341
Okay.

348
00:23:40,343 --> 00:23:42,875
And then we'll be
shooting on the wall.

349
00:23:42,877 --> 00:23:45,979
So, once we pass you guys, you guys
wrap and then hike to the summit basically?

350
00:23:45,981 --> 00:23:47,114
Yeah.

351
00:23:47,116 --> 00:23:49,850
Jimmy and I have
worked together for 10 years.

352
00:23:49,852 --> 00:23:51,852
We've climbed all
over the world.

353
00:23:51,854 --> 00:23:53,921
We are doing the
triple link up too, right?

354
00:23:53,923 --> 00:23:55,989
I mean, by the time we
get to Yosemite we're gonna be

355
00:23:55,991 --> 00:23:58,295
as Cheyne says, "Yoked."

356
00:24:02,064 --> 00:24:05,099
The team that Jimmy assembled
are all professional climbers.

357
00:24:05,101 --> 00:24:07,804
The best possible crew
for this kind of thing.

358
00:24:08,104 --> 00:24:10,036
And so in a way, I'm like, "This
is kinda awesome." You know,

359
00:24:10,038 --> 00:24:13,576
it's kind of just like I get to
go climb with all my friends.

360
00:24:17,380 --> 00:24:21,015
Mikey, we should put someone right
here because if you lean out you can see the

361
00:24:21,017 --> 00:24:22,882
entire freaking route.

362
00:24:22,884 --> 00:24:25,318
Then let's just put the 100
meter there and the 400 footer here.

363
00:24:25,320 --> 00:24:27,222
Doubled up.

364
00:24:27,623 --> 00:24:32,895
I've known Alex since he pretty much
started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009.

365
00:24:33,695 --> 00:24:38,332
I've filmed Alex a handful
of times, free soloing.

366
00:24:38,334 --> 00:24:41,802
And then we've also spent a couple of
winters together down in South America.

367
00:24:41,804 --> 00:24:44,371
So, uh, we, the
time's added up.

368
00:24:44,373 --> 00:24:46,806
Uh, I spend a lot of
time with him now.

369
00:24:46,808 --> 00:24:50,978
So, I'm scared because I don't
wanna see anything happen to Alex.

370
00:24:50,980 --> 00:24:53,747
I mean, it's one of the reasons that I
almost said no to this job, and, I mean,

371
00:24:53,749 --> 00:24:56,049
I think Jimmy went through
the same stuff of being like,

372
00:24:56,051 --> 00:24:58,721
"Do we really wanna
be part of this?"

373
00:25:00,056 --> 00:25:02,922
I've always been conflicted
about shooting a film about free soloing

374
00:25:02,924 --> 00:25:06,226
just because it's so dangerous.

375
00:25:06,228 --> 00:25:11,431
It's hard to not imagine, your friend,
Alex, soloing something that's extremely

376
00:25:11,433 --> 00:25:15,872
dangerous and you're making a film about
it, which might put undue pressure on him

377
00:25:16,372 --> 00:25:20,243
to do something, and him falling
through the frame to his death.

378
00:25:24,980 --> 00:25:31,184
And we have to work through that and understand
that what we're doing is something that

379
00:25:31,186 --> 00:25:33,389
we can live with even in
a worst-case scenario.

380
00:25:40,730 --> 00:25:43,831
It's a funny thing, people who know
a little bit about climbing, they're like,

381
00:25:43,833 --> 00:25:46,933
"Oh, he says he has it,
he's, he's totally safe."

382
00:25:46,935 --> 00:25:51,407
And then people who really know exactly
what he's doing are freaked out.

383
00:25:51,775 --> 00:25:54,775
My dad was always like, "I don't
want you to go ice climbing.

384
00:25:54,777 --> 00:25:57,814
I don't want you to
free solo," you know.

385
00:25:58,247 --> 00:25:59,712
Just not, I wonder
if your dad had been like.

386
00:25:59,714 --> 00:26:03,016
When he was my age, he had
had like 20 or 30 friends that had

387
00:26:03,018 --> 00:26:04,450
died in the mountains.

388
00:26:04,452 --> 00:26:07,054
And now I'm at that point where
I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends

389
00:26:07,056 --> 00:26:08,788
that have died
in the mountains.

390
00:26:08,790 --> 00:26:10,324
That many?

391
00:26:10,326 --> 00:26:11,924
Yeah, I counted
them a while ago.

392
00:26:11,926 --> 00:26:13,492
I mean, like not friends
but people in our community.

393
00:26:13,494 --> 00:26:16,896
Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally,
like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently.

394
00:26:16,898 --> 00:26:19,199
People that I have
met, yeah, I'm like, no, yeah.

395
00:26:19,201 --> 00:26:22,035
I haven't had anybody die who I was,
like, really, really, close to yet.

396
00:26:22,037 --> 00:26:25,709
Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm.
I don't know.

397
00:26:26,241 --> 00:26:31,077
I think everybody who has made
free soloing a big part of their life,

398
00:26:31,079 --> 00:26:33,115
is dead now.

399
00:26:33,915 --> 00:26:37,319
<i>John Bachar was a
pioneer of so-called free solo climbing,</i>

400
00:26:37,686 --> 00:26:42,021
<i>he fell to his death this past
week at the age of 52 from a cliff.</i>

401
00:26:42,023 --> 00:26:44,091
<i>And we're sorry
to have to report on the death of</i>

402
00:26:44,093 --> 00:26:46,426
<i>U.S. Climber Sean Leary.</i>

403
00:26:46,428 --> 00:26:49,563
<i>Sean was killed in Utah and
was found a couple of days ago.</i>

404
00:26:49,565 --> 00:26:52,266
<i>Derek Hersey
was climbing in Yosemite Valley.</i>

405
00:26:52,268 --> 00:26:54,804
<i>His body was found
Saturday morning.</i>

406
00:26:55,136 --> 00:26:58,438
<i>Hersey climbed, as usual,
alone without ropes.</i>

407
00:26:58,440 --> 00:27:00,440
Most people that
are pushing the limits,

408
00:27:00,442 --> 00:27:04,913
they have this mentality of "Screw
it, whatever happens, happens."

409
00:27:27,869 --> 00:27:31,473
I think all the soloing he's
done has trained his mind.

410
00:27:31,707 --> 00:27:36,079
He doesn't get emotionally affected
by it the way that a lot of people do.

411
00:27:36,846 --> 00:27:39,613
And not knowing about the science
of that is that's probably a product

412
00:27:39,615 --> 00:27:43,519
of your past more than
it is just a genetic thing.

413
00:27:46,387 --> 00:27:49,323
There's been a lot of speculation
about, like, how I deal with fear and,

414
00:27:49,325 --> 00:27:51,490
like, how I'm
able to free solo.

415
00:27:51,492 --> 00:27:54,327
People are just like, "Oh, well,
he must be a thrill seeker.

416
00:27:54,329 --> 00:27:57,032
There must be
something defective."

417
00:28:00,236 --> 00:28:01,602
So when a writer
contacted me about doing an

418
00:28:01,604 --> 00:28:06,038
MRI, I thought it's kind of cool
just to go and get an MRI and, like,

419
00:28:06,040 --> 00:28:07,540
see what's actually going on.

420
00:28:07,542 --> 00:28:10,979
You know, scan your brain and then
see if it's all there structurally.

421
00:28:14,016 --> 00:28:15,615
We're gonna
start the task now.

422
00:28:15,617 --> 00:28:19,452
Remember to press the button every time
you see a new picture come up, okay?

423
00:28:19,454 --> 00:28:21,323
<i>Okay.</i>

424
00:28:23,925 --> 00:28:27,126
We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some
kind of freak creature or something.

425
00:28:27,128 --> 00:28:29,496
I've had several ex-girlfriends
said that I have personality

426
00:28:29,498 --> 00:28:31,430
disorders or things like that.

427
00:28:31,432 --> 00:28:33,232
That there's something
wrong with me.

428
00:28:33,234 --> 00:28:35,334
Emotionally stable?

429
00:28:35,336 --> 00:28:36,636
Agree.

430
00:28:36,638 --> 00:28:39,139
Ingenious, a deep thinker?

431
00:28:39,141 --> 00:28:40,974
Disagree.

432
00:28:40,976 --> 00:28:42,375
Tends to find
fault with others?

433
00:28:42,377 --> 00:28:44,177
Agree somewhat.

434
00:28:44,179 --> 00:28:46,947
Climbing a steep mountain
would be too scary for me?

435
00:28:46,949 --> 00:28:49,115
I have trouble
controlling my impulses?

436
00:28:49,117 --> 00:28:52,184
Is depressed?

437
00:28:52,186 --> 00:28:55,390
Hmm.

438
00:28:55,958 --> 00:28:57,990
Is my, is my brain intact?

439
00:28:57,992 --> 00:29:00,526
Your brain's intact and
it's, it's quite interesting.

440
00:29:00,528 --> 00:29:04,430
Those little two dots that are
further towards the top of the screen,

441
00:29:04,432 --> 00:29:06,970
that's the amygdala.

442
00:29:08,403 --> 00:29:13,606
So an interesting thing, do you
have no activation in your amygdala?

443
00:29:13,608 --> 00:29:16,511
There's just not much
going on in my brain, it seems.

444
00:29:17,412 --> 00:29:21,014
Um, do you think my amygdala actually
just doesn't work or something?

445
00:29:21,016 --> 00:29:25,889
Your amygdala works, it's just that it
needs a much higher level of stimulation.

446
00:29:27,323 --> 00:29:31,725
Things that are typically stimulating
for most of the rest of us are

447
00:29:31,727 --> 00:29:33,727
not really doing it for you.

448
00:29:33,729 --> 00:29:36,162
Maybe my amygdala's
just tired, you know,

449
00:29:36,164 --> 00:29:39,269
from too many years
of being all gripped.

450
00:30:07,628 --> 00:30:11,667
I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's
such a mental component to free soloing.

451
00:30:12,835 --> 00:30:17,336
The big challenge is
controlling your mind, I guess.

452
00:30:17,338 --> 00:30:19,739
Because you're not, you're not controlling
your fear, you're sort of just trying

453
00:30:19,741 --> 00:30:22,577
to step outside of it.

454
00:30:25,146 --> 00:30:28,150
Oh, no,
woo, sorry, Alex!

455
00:30:28,483 --> 00:30:31,651
And when people talk about
trying to suppress your fear, I mean,

456
00:30:31,653 --> 00:30:34,254
I look at it in
a different way.

457
00:30:34,256 --> 00:30:38,557
I try to expand my comfort zone by
practicing the moves over and over again.

458
00:30:38,559 --> 00:30:41,697
I work through the fear, until
it's just not scary anymore.

459
00:30:44,165 --> 00:30:45,664
Oh, no, no, no, no.

460
00:30:45,666 --> 00:30:49,004
Oh, so slippery.

461
00:30:49,270 --> 00:30:53,576
But, um, for years Freeblast
has given me the heebie-jeebies.

462
00:30:54,609 --> 00:31:00,415
You're standing on tiny edges, small
variations in the texture of the rock.

463
00:31:01,282 --> 00:31:05,084
If you slip, your
hands can't hold you.

464
00:31:05,086 --> 00:31:09,256
It's just the two tiny points of
contact that keep you from falling, and

465
00:31:09,258 --> 00:31:12,996
when you step up,
there's only one.

466
00:31:13,394 --> 00:31:15,764
Oh.

467
00:31:23,704 --> 00:31:30,112
It's like, it looks so much better
today than yesterday, but we'll see.

468
00:31:33,147 --> 00:31:36,449
I probably fell about 30 feet.

469
00:31:36,451 --> 00:31:40,754
We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's
belaying me, and then I just fell off,

470
00:31:40,756 --> 00:31:41,921
I don't know.

471
00:31:41,923 --> 00:31:44,623
I just, I don't even know
how, I just, like, fell off.

472
00:31:44,625 --> 00:31:46,392
Show me how much you
can go up and down on your own.

473
00:31:46,394 --> 00:31:49,395
It's, it's like, you know.

474
00:31:49,397 --> 00:31:51,664
I think this looks to me just like
your straightforward ankle sprain.

475
00:31:51,666 --> 00:31:53,033
Okay.

476
00:31:53,035 --> 00:31:55,334
So, you know, we say ankle sprain,
but more or less an ankle sprain

477
00:31:55,336 --> 00:31:56,469
is torn ligaments.

478
00:31:56,471 --> 00:31:57,872
- Yeah.
- That's what it is.

479
00:31:57,874 --> 00:31:59,239
...So what does that mean in terms
of, uh, like hiking and stuff?

480
00:31:59,241 --> 00:32:02,542
I mean, if I just, like, immobilize
it and then, uh, still just hike.

481
00:32:02,544 --> 00:32:04,577
Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get
yourself through the first few days.

482
00:32:04,579 --> 00:32:05,813
Yeah.

483
00:32:05,815 --> 00:32:07,146
Um, but after that and it's
just strengthening and rehab.

484
00:32:07,148 --> 00:32:10,116
Well, and actually, can I make
it worse really, through activity?

485
00:32:10,118 --> 00:32:14,557
Um, you could probably
do too much too soon.

486
00:32:21,829 --> 00:32:24,331
Wait, you don't need
to keep that right.

487
00:32:24,333 --> 00:32:26,900
I can worry as
much as I want internally,

488
00:32:26,902 --> 00:32:30,903
but if he doesn't do
this stuff he'd regret it.

489
00:32:30,905 --> 00:32:35,709
If Alex and I got married and had kids,
I would feel a lot more willing to say

490
00:32:35,711 --> 00:32:40,479
what I thought about what
was acceptable risk or not.

491
00:32:40,481 --> 00:32:42,751
He should have
put his shoe on.

492
00:32:45,621 --> 00:32:48,591
- Stubborn.
- Stubborn.

493
00:32:55,730 --> 00:32:59,498
I thought you were, you know, walking
and stuff now, I thought you're fine.

494
00:32:59,500 --> 00:33:00,801
Oh, I am, but what.

495
00:33:00,803 --> 00:33:03,236
Doctors said you were
supposed to push it, Alex, come on.

496
00:33:03,238 --> 00:33:04,804
Don't you want
some watermelon?

497
00:33:04,806 --> 00:33:07,940
Oh, well, good thing you have
a personal slave to do that for you.

498
00:33:07,942 --> 00:33:10,309
Uh-huh, I know, I'm
pretty stoked about that.

499
00:33:10,311 --> 00:33:13,212
All right, um, is it gonna be that
no matter how I do this, you're like,

500
00:33:13,214 --> 00:33:14,748
"Why did you do it that way?"

501
00:33:14,750 --> 00:33:16,382
I just want watermelon.

502
00:33:16,384 --> 00:33:18,351
I kind of wanted to blame
Sanni to some extent because

503
00:33:18,353 --> 00:33:19,786
you're just like, "Whatever."

504
00:33:19,788 --> 00:33:21,321
I haven't been injured in, like,
seven years and then it's like I'm

505
00:33:21,323 --> 00:33:24,224
hanging out with this girl that doesn't
climb and I suddenly start getting

506
00:33:24,226 --> 00:33:25,659
injured all the time.

507
00:33:25,661 --> 00:33:28,230
It's like you just
cut down a tree.

508
00:33:36,805 --> 00:33:41,641
When they say "active recovery,"
no, that doesn't mean you're walking

509
00:33:41,643 --> 00:33:44,547
all over the place.

510
00:33:44,747 --> 00:33:48,683
I would be happy if
he didn't free solo.

511
00:33:49,684 --> 00:33:54,254
I've always appreciated that he never
told me beforehand that he was gonna

512
00:33:54,256 --> 00:33:56,222
free solo or anything.

513
00:33:56,224 --> 00:33:59,292
I could come down on him and say,
"You shouldn't be doing that,"

514
00:33:59,294 --> 00:34:02,328
and alienate him,
and, uh, it would've alienated

515
00:34:02,330 --> 00:34:04,930
him because that's
his, uh, whole life.

516
00:34:04,932 --> 00:34:08,434
I think when he's free soloing,
that's when he feels the most alive,

517
00:34:08,436 --> 00:34:10,670
the most everything, the most.

518
00:34:10,672 --> 00:34:12,204
Feels the most.

519
00:34:12,206 --> 00:34:16,575
And how can you even think about taking
that away from somebody, you know?

520
00:34:16,577 --> 00:34:18,648
I wouldn't.

521
00:34:28,724 --> 00:34:31,557
I've been able to stand on one foot
while I put my harness and my shoes and

522
00:34:31,559 --> 00:34:34,797
stuff on, and getting' this
like kind of, a minor victory.

523
00:34:37,032 --> 00:34:40,633
Um, I haven't put on my climbing
shoe basically since I did it.

524
00:34:40,635 --> 00:34:43,672
So swollen. So tender.

525
00:34:47,708 --> 00:34:52,311
Unfortunately, crack climbing
is all ankle-dependent.

526
00:34:52,313 --> 00:34:58,150
And Freerider is 3,000
feet of crack climbing.

527
00:34:58,152 --> 00:35:00,720
All my friends that have sprained
their ankles in serious ways have

528
00:35:00,722 --> 00:35:05,861
all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at
least six months until it's normal."

529
00:35:06,561 --> 00:35:08,695
If I can't get this
done in the next month

530
00:35:08,697 --> 00:35:12,535
then the weather will change and
I'll have to wait until next year.

531
00:35:23,911 --> 00:35:27,347
You know, a couple years ago,
I remember him telling me that he had never

532
00:35:27,349 --> 00:35:31,650
fallen unexpectedly in his life,
and now I've seen it happen twice

533
00:35:31,652 --> 00:35:33,920
in the past, like, month.

534
00:35:33,922 --> 00:35:36,958
But when you hear stuff like that,
you start to wonder a little bit.

535
00:35:38,226 --> 00:35:41,860
I had this dream the night before
he called me that he had, like,

536
00:35:41,862 --> 00:35:44,863
wandered into our house and asked
us, and, like, started crying,

537
00:35:44,865 --> 00:35:47,066
which really freaked me out
'cause Alex doesn't cry.

538
00:35:47,068 --> 00:35:50,804
And then he had told me that he
fell free soloing and started, like,

539
00:35:50,806 --> 00:35:54,374
revealing all of his injuries, like
he pulled up his sleeve on his arm,

540
00:35:54,376 --> 00:35:57,876
and in my dream a bone just, like, fell
out of his arm and it was all messed up.

541
00:35:57,878 --> 00:36:02,715
And that, and it was this really, like,
kind of vivid, but super freaky dream.

542
00:36:02,717 --> 00:36:06,655
And, uh, and then the next day he
called me and told me he hurt himself.

543
00:36:07,621 --> 00:36:09,456
Hi, hi, Ingrid.

544
00:36:09,458 --> 00:36:11,624
Sometimes,
one at a time.

545
00:36:11,626 --> 00:36:13,126
Hi, hello, how's it going?

546
00:36:13,128 --> 00:36:16,128
- Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz!
- So we got Fitz.

547
00:36:16,130 --> 00:36:18,498
- Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz!
- Are you gonna carve a pumpkin?

548
00:36:18,500 --> 00:36:20,400
Nice, that's good.

549
00:36:20,402 --> 00:36:21,967
That seems off.

550
00:36:23,704 --> 00:36:25,005
Eww.

551
00:36:25,007 --> 00:36:27,474
Alex said, "I want nothing
to do with the pumpkin carving,

552
00:36:27,476 --> 00:36:29,075
and I won't carve anything
and I hate holidays."

553
00:36:29,077 --> 00:36:30,844
I like having
fun when I have fun.

554
00:36:30,846 --> 00:36:34,382
I don't like being told
that it's time to have fun.

555
00:36:34,583 --> 00:36:37,653
Yeah, I think we need
to a little more.

556
00:36:37,985 --> 00:36:39,084
Whoa, she's squirming.

557
00:36:39,086 --> 00:36:41,153
I don't know. Do you have
a good grip on there?

558
00:36:41,155 --> 00:36:44,023
You put that in my eye
again, I'm gonna drop you.

559
00:36:44,025 --> 00:36:46,492
Why does it not
want to see us?

560
00:36:46,494 --> 00:36:47,594
Just kidding, I won't.

561
00:36:47,596 --> 00:36:49,095
He keeps.

562
00:36:49,097 --> 00:36:50,530
You gotta lift him
up more, you need to.

563
00:36:50,532 --> 00:36:52,065
Bye, Tom.

564
00:36:52,067 --> 00:36:53,733
Oh man, you should have
a lot of fear right now.

565
00:36:53,735 --> 00:36:55,601
Okay, 'cause' I
feel a lot of anxiety.

566
00:36:55,603 --> 00:36:58,704
No one in any part of my family has
hugged during all my formative years.

567
00:36:58,706 --> 00:37:02,075
I had to teach myself how to hug
when I was, like, 23 or something.

568
00:37:02,077 --> 00:37:03,876
'Cause I was like,
"Everyone seems to hug,

569
00:37:03,878 --> 00:37:05,478
that seems like something
I should get into,"

570
00:37:05,480 --> 00:37:07,713
and then I started,
like, practicing.

571
00:37:07,715 --> 00:37:09,115
Now I'm quite a good hugger.

572
00:37:09,117 --> 00:37:10,650
Yes.

573
00:37:10,652 --> 00:37:12,050
You see that the
pumpkin is a van?

574
00:37:12,052 --> 00:37:13,787
- I did see it.
- That's a precious van.

575
00:37:13,789 --> 00:37:14,987
Is it a cat?

576
00:37:14,989 --> 00:37:16,755
- I did the cat. -That's good.
- Look at that.

577
00:37:16,757 --> 00:37:18,425
Um, I did it all by my.

578
00:37:18,427 --> 00:37:19,793
Honestly, it does
look good like this.

579
00:37:19,795 --> 00:37:21,594
It looked terrible.

580
00:37:21,596 --> 00:37:23,195
I think, yeah.

581
00:37:23,197 --> 00:37:26,532
Part of the thing with the L word,
you know, is saying love and stuff,

582
00:37:26,534 --> 00:37:29,869
is that, like, in my entire life no one
in any part of my family has ever used,

583
00:37:29,871 --> 00:37:31,974
you know, that word.

584
00:37:36,077 --> 00:37:38,744
My Mom has only spoken French to
my sister and I our whole lives.

585
00:37:38,746 --> 00:37:41,481
She's a French teacher, so she
says, "Je t'aime" or whatever,

586
00:37:41,483 --> 00:37:45,521
and then my dad didn't
talk about anything.

587
00:37:45,820 --> 00:37:49,155
Nobody had an
emotional bond with Charlie.

588
00:37:49,157 --> 00:37:52,795
Charlie was probably what
we call nowadays Asperger's.

589
00:37:55,563 --> 00:37:58,197
Charlie's obsession, what
everyone called monomania.

590
00:37:58,199 --> 00:37:59,999
He loved to travel.

591
00:38:00,001 --> 00:38:02,405
He lived to travel like
Alex lives to climb.

592
00:38:03,271 --> 00:38:06,141
When he wasn't traveling,
things were not good.

593
00:38:07,041 --> 00:38:10,008
Alex would do something and
we'd call him stupid names,

594
00:38:10,010 --> 00:38:13,949
"Hey, bozo, don't do it like
that," just demeaning things.

595
00:38:14,449 --> 00:38:18,517
If you learn that about your
self-worth when you're this big,

596
00:38:18,519 --> 00:38:21,657
I don't think that goes away.

597
00:38:22,324 --> 00:38:25,894
I have no
recollection of that.

598
00:38:26,262 --> 00:38:28,561
I don't think my dad
put down anybody.

599
00:38:28,563 --> 00:38:32,902
I think my dad is like a teddy
bear, but dad was pretty morose.

600
00:38:35,269 --> 00:38:37,871
And then the thing is once they got
divorced, then they both were, like,

601
00:38:37,873 --> 00:38:41,043
so much happier and it all seemed
great, but he died the next summer.

602
00:38:42,244 --> 00:38:47,179
It's really kind of too bad that he
doesn't get to see how it all played out,

603
00:38:47,181 --> 00:38:51,453
'cause he put so much effort
into nurturing my climbing.

604
00:38:53,989 --> 00:38:55,389
But who knows?

605
00:38:55,391 --> 00:38:59,224
Maybe mom thought that he was, like,
holding us back or, like, you know,

606
00:38:59,226 --> 00:39:02,528
not pushing us to achieve our
full potential or, like, whatever,

607
00:39:02,530 --> 00:39:04,666
you know what I mean?

608
00:39:04,967 --> 00:39:08,034
My Mom's favorite sayings
are, "Presque ne compte pas,"

609
00:39:08,036 --> 00:39:11,941
"Almost doesn't count,"
or, uh, "Good enough isn't."

610
00:39:12,307 --> 00:39:14,943
No matter how well I ever do at
anything, it's not that good.

611
00:39:20,882 --> 00:39:24,086
The bottomless pit
of self-loathing.

612
00:39:26,054 --> 00:39:30,860
I mean, that's definitely the
motivation for some soloing.

613
00:39:40,668 --> 00:39:42,737
Here we are.

614
00:39:43,538 --> 00:39:45,637
So I still
never, like, quietly,

615
00:39:45,639 --> 00:39:47,740
quite understand what
happened when you fell, you,

616
00:39:47,742 --> 00:39:49,275
like, do you even know?

617
00:39:49,277 --> 00:39:50,809
It should be just kinda, like.

618
00:39:50,811 --> 00:39:52,878
Uh, I don't know why I fell off,
but I mean I know that my skin was,

619
00:39:52,880 --> 00:39:54,113
like, hard and dry.

620
00:39:54,115 --> 00:39:55,315
It was like lightly raining
kind of and like really windy.

621
00:39:55,317 --> 00:39:59,088
Weird he doesn't even
say he knows what happened.

622
00:39:59,320 --> 00:40:02,755
He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling,"
which kind of surprised me because I feel

623
00:40:02,757 --> 00:40:05,258
like he's always so aware.

624
00:40:05,260 --> 00:40:08,163
Or like maybe he's not
always totally aware.

625
00:40:09,030 --> 00:40:13,700
You know Alex talks about having this
armor when he solos and I think as, like,

626
00:40:13,702 --> 00:40:17,072
a friend or a family member of him,
you kinda have to have that same thing.

627
00:40:22,110 --> 00:40:26,315
Like after that happened, for whatever reason,
it kinda like waked me up more than normal.

628
00:40:27,282 --> 00:40:29,615
You know, normally I'm just
like, "Oh, he's got it.

629
00:40:29,617 --> 00:40:31,617
He's such, he's such a beast,
you know, he's gonna be fine."

630
00:40:31,619 --> 00:40:37,590
But I just, like,

631
00:40:37,592 --> 00:40:41,896
am stressed out about the
thing a little bit, you know?

632
00:40:45,800 --> 00:40:50,003
Look, I don't wanna fall off and
die either, but there's a satisfaction to

633
00:40:50,005 --> 00:40:53,709
challenging yourself and
doing something well.

634
00:40:54,443 --> 00:40:58,010
That feeling is heightened when
you're for sure facing death.

635
00:40:58,012 --> 00:41:01,115
You can't make a mistake.

636
00:41:01,583 --> 00:41:06,885
If you're seeking perfection, free
soloing is as close as you can get.

637
00:41:06,887 --> 00:41:11,826
And, uh, it does feel good to feel
perfect, like, for a brief moment.

638
00:41:15,730 --> 00:41:18,965
My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible,"
but if I kill myself in an accident,

639
00:41:18,967 --> 00:41:22,869
they'll be like, "Oh, that was too
bad," but like life goes on, you know,

640
00:41:22,871 --> 00:41:24,204
like they'll be fine.

641
00:41:24,206 --> 00:41:25,704
I mean, and I've had this problem
with girls a lot, you know.

642
00:41:25,706 --> 00:41:29,008
They're like, "Oh, I really care
about you," I'm like, "No you don't."

643
00:41:29,010 --> 00:41:30,642
Like if I perish,
like, it doesn't matter,

644
00:41:30,644 --> 00:41:34,179
like you'll find somebody else, like,
that's not, that's not that big a deal.

645
00:41:34,181 --> 00:41:36,884
I don't know.

646
00:41:37,284 --> 00:41:40,221
Maybe that's a
little too callous.

647
00:41:45,460 --> 00:41:49,965
My foot is improving, but
it still swells up a bit.

648
00:41:53,967 --> 00:41:56,904
Rope!

649
00:42:02,110 --> 00:42:04,776
Pretty epic rappel.

650
00:42:04,778 --> 00:42:07,650
Uh, we're just commuting
down the wall, kinda.

651
00:42:08,117 --> 00:42:10,419
We're just having
a good old time.

652
00:42:11,552 --> 00:42:14,954
If you look at soloing El Cap objectively,
there are probably six pitches that

653
00:42:14,956 --> 00:42:17,757
worry me the most.

654
00:42:17,759 --> 00:42:20,293
Just off the ground, there's
some insecure climbing.

655
00:42:20,295 --> 00:42:22,929
And then Freeblast, Pitch 6,
being the one I fell off of,

656
00:42:22,931 --> 00:42:25,831
which is obviously
a total botch.

657
00:42:25,833 --> 00:42:29,202
Then the down climb
to the Hollow Flake.

658
00:42:29,204 --> 00:42:32,204
And then
the Monster Offwidth,

659
00:42:32,206 --> 00:42:35,009
which is super physical,
difficult style of climbing.

660
00:42:39,114 --> 00:42:42,248
When you're in the Monster Offwidth,
some part of you is always being

661
00:42:42,250 --> 00:42:45,019
crushed in the mountain.

662
00:42:45,719 --> 00:42:49,354
Imagine like the worst type of
Pilates class in the whole world,

663
00:42:49,356 --> 00:42:52,758
somebody like flogging as you do it,
and occasionally like sandpapering skin

664
00:42:52,760 --> 00:42:57,166
off your body, telling you to hold
the position until you freakin' vomit,

665
00:42:57,532 --> 00:43:01,103
and if you lose the
position you die.

666
00:43:04,838 --> 00:43:08,907
The Enduro Corner, in and of itself,
would have been the most difficult part of

667
00:43:08,909 --> 00:43:10,945
virtually any big
solo I've done.

668
00:43:15,983 --> 00:43:18,985
Your feet aren't on
any specific holds.

669
00:43:18,987 --> 00:43:21,153
What makes your feet stay to the wall
is the amount of pressure that you

670
00:43:21,155 --> 00:43:24,226
pull with your hands.

671
00:43:24,893 --> 00:43:28,094
The harder you pull with your
hands, the more your feet stick.

672
00:43:28,096 --> 00:43:31,500
The most demanding for your
arms on the whole route.

673
00:43:32,032 --> 00:43:36,337
And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the
Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued.

674
00:43:39,507 --> 00:43:43,412
But the piece that I've always worried about
the most is the crux, the hardest part.

675
00:43:44,445 --> 00:43:49,951
To get past the crux, you have climb either
the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner.

676
00:43:50,452 --> 00:43:54,456
2,000 off the ground, each of which
I've fallen off many times with a rope.

677
00:44:00,128 --> 00:44:03,231
The Teflon Corner, which is basically
like a 90-degree corner of glass,

678
00:44:03,632 --> 00:44:07,536
which is ultra-slippery,
just fills me with terror.

679
00:44:08,235 --> 00:44:12,338
Pushing against the two walls of it,
with my feet on glass, my palms on glass,

680
00:44:12,340 --> 00:44:15,307
and trying to make these little micro
adjustments to keep my balance centered so

681
00:44:15,309 --> 00:44:18,211
that I can push evenly
on all four sides of it.

682
00:44:18,213 --> 00:44:21,380
And then I imagine 2,500 feet of
air beneath my feet, you're, like,

683
00:44:21,382 --> 00:44:24,485
that's just a crazy
thing to think about.

684
00:44:26,487 --> 00:44:29,791
The alternative is
the Boulder Problem.

685
00:44:30,958 --> 00:44:33,528
But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot
section that's incredibly difficult.

686
00:44:37,030 --> 00:44:39,932
It's a very
intricate sequence.

687
00:44:39,934 --> 00:44:44,006
You've got your right hand on a
crimp, left hand on a side pole,

688
00:44:44,539 --> 00:44:47,943
and then you put your right foot
onto this dimple thing.

689
00:44:48,376 --> 00:44:52,181
Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling
crimp, left foot goes into a little dish,

690
00:44:54,481 --> 00:44:57,916
and then you drive up off the
left foot into the thumb press.

691
00:44:57,918 --> 00:45:00,052
That's the worst hold
on the entire route.

692
00:45:00,054 --> 00:45:02,958
So, you get maybe half
your thumb on the hold.

693
00:45:03,425 --> 00:45:07,930
Then you roll your two fingers
over the thumb, switch your feet,

694
00:45:09,097 --> 00:45:12,234
left foot stems out to this
really bad sloping black foothold.

695
00:45:15,068 --> 00:45:17,905
Switch your thumbs.

696
00:45:20,173 --> 00:45:23,441
And then reach out left to a big
sloping bread loaf type hold that

697
00:45:23,443 --> 00:45:26,414
feels kind of grainy.

698
00:45:27,615 --> 00:45:32,286
From there, you either karate kick or
double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall.

699
00:45:35,322 --> 00:45:38,990
In some ways, it makes more sense to do the
big two-handed jump because you're jumping to

700
00:45:38,992 --> 00:45:42,331
a good edge so there's
actually something to catch.

701
00:45:48,436 --> 00:45:51,539
But the idea of jumping without a
rope seems completely outrageous,

702
00:45:51,739 --> 00:45:55,076
if you miss it, that's that.

703
00:45:56,545 --> 00:46:01,016
But then the karate kick always feels
like you're falling into the other wall,

704
00:46:01,248 --> 00:46:04,485
which also feels
outrageous for soloing.

705
00:46:20,268 --> 00:46:23,536
Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I
felt, like, pretty strong just pinching

706
00:46:23,538 --> 00:46:25,170
that shit and just
being that, put the foot.

707
00:46:25,172 --> 00:46:27,305
Well, as I said, when you actually
put your foot out there, I was like,

708
00:46:27,307 --> 00:46:28,340
"Well, that doesn't
look that bad."

709
00:46:28,342 --> 00:46:33,080
Yeah, it's not
like crazy, but we'll see.

710
00:46:38,987 --> 00:46:40,619
Did you take
Ibuprofen this morning?

711
00:46:40,621 --> 00:46:43,289
Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm
going to right now also.

712
00:46:43,291 --> 00:46:45,324
- For your ankle?
- Uh-hmm.

713
00:46:45,326 --> 00:46:51,666
Hmm, I'm not, like, super stoked when
he goes soloing, because he's already a

714
00:46:52,532 --> 00:46:56,001
big part of my life.

715
00:46:56,003 --> 00:47:00,708
I tell Alex I love him all the time, and
he shows me that he loves me all the time.

716
00:47:02,543 --> 00:47:04,409
And really just dive in.

717
00:47:04,411 --> 00:47:05,644
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

718
00:47:05,646 --> 00:47:07,746
But I also tell him that I
also need words of affection.

719
00:47:07,748 --> 00:47:10,551
- Yeah.
- We work on that.

720
00:47:12,019 --> 00:47:16,425
In terms of learning how to communicate
emotion, Alex has a long way to go.

721
00:47:16,992 --> 00:47:22,595
And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you
how I feel, and I just need you to say it

722
00:47:22,597 --> 00:47:25,300
totally makes sense
that you feel that way."

723
00:47:26,034 --> 00:47:29,271
He was like, "Yeah, I can
understand why you feel that way."

724
00:47:30,605 --> 00:47:33,405
I was like, "I don't
really think that you do,

725
00:47:33,407 --> 00:47:36,310
but I'm glad
that you're trying."

726
00:47:38,079 --> 00:47:40,412
Alex, we have
excellent team skills.

727
00:47:40,414 --> 00:47:42,680
Well, I thought, I feel like
we're not quite killin' it, but we're,

728
00:47:42,682 --> 00:47:44,150
I think we're doin' well.

729
00:47:44,152 --> 00:47:46,552
Really?
I think we're doing great.

730
00:47:46,554 --> 00:47:50,125
I'm very happy for Alex
and Sanni that it works so well.

731
00:47:50,757 --> 00:47:53,761
And I'm, I think I'm just
impressed by their relationship,

732
00:47:56,264 --> 00:48:00,302
but to free solo at that level, you
really have to have the mental armor.

733
00:48:01,369 --> 00:48:04,740
Having that romantic relationship
around is detrimental to that armor.

734
00:48:05,673 --> 00:48:09,208
You have to focus and inherently
a close romantic relationship

735
00:48:09,210 --> 00:48:10,575
removes that armor.

736
00:48:10,577 --> 00:48:14,048
You kinda can't have
both at the same time.

737
00:48:40,141 --> 00:48:42,407
There's always something that
has to give you the confidence to

738
00:48:42,409 --> 00:48:44,577
go out and free solo a route.

739
00:48:44,579 --> 00:48:48,450
So sometimes, that confidence just
comes from feeling super, super fit.

740
00:48:48,650 --> 00:48:52,119
Sometimes, that confidence comes
through preparation and rehearsal.

741
00:48:52,786 --> 00:48:55,556
But I mean there's always something
that makes you feel ready.

742
00:49:03,197 --> 00:49:05,363
There's something to be said for, like,
soloing a bunch of pitches to, like,

743
00:49:05,365 --> 00:49:08,737
get into that right space.

744
00:49:11,139 --> 00:49:13,208
It's a little stressful.

745
00:49:13,541 --> 00:49:17,142
It's just, it's unreal.

746
00:49:17,144 --> 00:49:18,778
Yeah.

747
00:49:18,780 --> 00:49:22,180
And as much as I trust Alex and
I know that he's really methodical, uh,

748
00:49:22,182 --> 00:49:25,353
if you're pushing the edge,
eventually you find the edge.

749
00:49:28,789 --> 00:49:30,389
But then there's just some
things that you're, like, well,

750
00:49:30,391 --> 00:49:33,925
you just have to push that far because
they're just, they're just that cool.

751
00:49:33,927 --> 00:49:36,730
And El Cap is that cool.

752
00:49:39,634 --> 00:49:43,105
There's incremental advances
that happen in all kinds of things,

753
00:49:43,505 --> 00:49:47,275
but every once in a while there's
just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap,

754
00:49:47,708 --> 00:49:51,246
if he pulls this off,
is this quantum leap.

755
00:49:52,079 --> 00:49:56,250
It is hard to imagine somebody up
there by themselves, without a rope,

756
00:49:56,617 --> 00:49:58,784
where it's pretty much all the
other big cliffs around here.

757
00:49:58,786 --> 00:50:01,490
I can kinda get it.

758
00:50:02,056 --> 00:50:04,322
How many times have you
soloed both those routes now?

759
00:50:04,324 --> 00:50:08,459
Well, Astroman, three or four
times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally,

760
00:50:08,461 --> 00:50:10,563
like, fifty, sixty.

761
00:50:10,565 --> 00:50:12,800
Wait, you've soloed
the Rostrum 50 or 60 times?

762
00:50:13,434 --> 00:50:15,434
It was like part
of the circuit and I would,

763
00:50:15,436 --> 00:50:17,570
I would go there and I
would do it at least twice.

764
00:50:17,572 --> 00:50:19,840
Like I was just glommed on.

765
00:50:20,106 --> 00:50:21,340
Uh-huh.

766
00:50:21,342 --> 00:50:22,708
Not like I had a fear, but
just kind of like this is how.

767
00:50:22,710 --> 00:50:24,976
Yeah, because you're so tight. You
know, I love that about soloing.

768
00:50:24,978 --> 00:50:26,878
My footwork gets really good.

769
00:50:26,880 --> 00:50:28,447
Yeah, really,
yeah totally, yeah.

770
00:50:28,449 --> 00:50:30,749
But it's not for anybody
else, this is just for me.

771
00:50:30,751 --> 00:50:32,483
Yeah, yeah, just because
you feel like you're.

772
00:50:32,485 --> 00:50:34,220
And after Astroman,
people were like,

773
00:50:34,222 --> 00:50:35,787
"Ah, we wanna film
you, film you up there,"

774
00:50:35,789 --> 00:50:38,726
and I'm like, "Not interested,
not even slightly."

775
00:50:38,927 --> 00:50:42,595
For me, it was so incredibly important
to be doing it for the right reasons.

776
00:50:42,597 --> 00:50:45,630
I mean, I think I'm still doing
everything for the right reasons,

777
00:50:45,632 --> 00:50:48,867
and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel
like from the outside observer, you know,

778
00:50:48,869 --> 00:50:52,237
they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a
movie crew," like clearly that's the

779
00:50:52,239 --> 00:50:53,873
wrong reasons, you know.

780
00:50:53,875 --> 00:50:59,481
The worst thing about having a
film crew is if it changes your mindset.

781
00:51:09,590 --> 00:51:12,527
I think Alex is
almost ready to do it.

782
00:51:12,760 --> 00:51:15,797
He just wants to take
a few more practice laps.

783
00:51:16,831 --> 00:51:22,336
And we're just trying to figure
out all of our camera positions.

784
00:51:27,574 --> 00:51:32,246
I mean the soloing
headspace is so fragile.

785
00:51:32,780 --> 00:51:36,981
We wanna film it well, but it's about
not getting in his way and making sure

786
00:51:36,983 --> 00:51:39,954
he has the experience he wants.

787
00:51:44,759 --> 00:51:47,592
The worst possible scenario
is that one of us would do something

788
00:51:47,594 --> 00:51:49,494
that would kill him.

789
00:51:49,496 --> 00:51:50,762
Is it gonna be the drone?

790
00:51:50,764 --> 00:51:51,831
Is it gonna be
one of the ropes?

791
00:51:51,833 --> 00:51:55,503
Is it gonna be us accidently
knocking off a rock?

792
00:51:59,005 --> 00:52:01,673
The idea of falling off is, you
know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that,

793
00:52:01,675 --> 00:52:05,844
but it's like kind of okay
if it's just by myself.

794
00:52:05,846 --> 00:52:08,780
But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right
in front of my friends, 'cause that's like,

795
00:52:08,782 --> 00:52:12,019
that's kind of messed up.

796
00:52:12,420 --> 00:52:15,724
Where are you comfortable
with us being essentially?

797
00:52:16,391 --> 00:52:19,325
Well, do you have
like.

798
00:52:19,327 --> 00:52:20,659
The traverse into it?

799
00:52:20,661 --> 00:52:22,293
- Uh-hmm.
- Yeah.

800
00:52:22,295 --> 00:52:25,496
And then a, just a camera above, sitting
above the Boulder Pitch, essentially.

801
00:52:25,498 --> 00:52:27,999
- Yeah. -It's distracting.
- Yeah, it's distracting.

802
00:52:28,001 --> 00:52:31,003
Well, it's not just distracting,
but it's also like, you know,

803
00:52:31,005 --> 00:52:34,576
nobody wants to see
that, I don't know.

804
00:52:36,510 --> 00:52:40,579
Like, yeah, I don't,
yeah, it's better not to.

805
00:52:40,581 --> 00:52:42,784
Some things you're like, meh.

806
00:52:43,416 --> 00:52:47,322
Yeah, okay.

807
00:52:49,456 --> 00:52:52,391
So should I rally into the valley
and try to like round out plans?

808
00:52:52,393 --> 00:52:54,561
Yeah, yeah.

809
00:52:58,398 --> 00:53:01,066
Um, the moon set
at 4:50 behind the ridge.

810
00:53:01,068 --> 00:53:05,804
The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and
by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably.

811
00:53:05,806 --> 00:53:07,039
- 8:05?
- Okay.

812
00:53:07,041 --> 00:53:09,141
You don't want it to be
sunny when you get to the crux,

813
00:53:09,143 --> 00:53:12,411
and it takes three or four hours
to get up to the Boulder Problem,

814
00:53:12,413 --> 00:53:14,746
and it's fall so in
order to beat the sun,

815
00:53:14,748 --> 00:53:17,081
you basically have
to start in the dark.

816
00:53:17,083 --> 00:53:21,690
I kinda think just leave the
ground at 4:00 again, basically.

817
00:53:29,563 --> 00:53:30,762
I don't know.

818
00:53:30,764 --> 00:53:33,335
I'm starting to get
kind of psyched.

819
00:53:35,769 --> 00:53:38,604
The moment of just letting go to it is
in some ways the most peaceful because

820
00:53:38,606 --> 00:53:40,171
then it's like
you just do your thing.

821
00:53:40,173 --> 00:53:43,344
There's no more stress, there's no more
anxiety, there's no fear, whatever,

822
00:53:43,844 --> 00:53:46,077
you just go up and do it.

823
00:53:46,079 --> 00:53:49,384
I put on my tight shoes today,
it's like very exciting.

824
00:53:50,284 --> 00:53:53,619
It would be, like, it would be like a
samurai pulling out his favorite sword,

825
00:53:53,621 --> 00:53:55,019
you know like,

826
00:53:55,021 --> 00:53:56,954
"Oh, my gosh,"
you know, and now I'm like,

827
00:53:56,956 --> 00:53:59,557
"Oh, time for the,
the finely crafted blade."

828
00:53:59,559 --> 00:54:02,663
So stoked.
I like sinking into it.

829
00:54:03,264 --> 00:54:08,700
It's, it goes with the Jedi thing,
the samurai with the, and then I just

830
00:54:08,702 --> 00:54:10,369
started taking Ibuprofen.

831
00:54:10,371 --> 00:54:13,508
I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like,
I think my foot's gonna be pretty good.

832
00:54:13,773 --> 00:54:16,978
Yeah, what does Sanni say
when you talk to her about it?

833
00:54:17,277 --> 00:54:18,844
Um, I mean I haven't
talked to her that much.

834
00:54:18,846 --> 00:54:20,479
She's been, like, asking a lot of
questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?"

835
00:54:20,481 --> 00:54:25,083
And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm
just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see."

836
00:54:25,085 --> 00:54:28,655
You know, the fewer people know
anything, the better really.

837
00:54:30,824 --> 00:54:34,126
I had a dream and you were
limping and you were like, had caught,

838
00:54:34,128 --> 00:54:38,597
had like made the exact same fall and
fallen on your ankle in the exact same way.

839
00:54:38,599 --> 00:54:40,164
That's really nice, San San.

840
00:54:40,166 --> 00:54:41,633
It was like tragic.

841
00:54:41,635 --> 00:54:42,867
I love hearing
stories about that.

842
00:54:42,869 --> 00:54:45,838
- I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh.
- I hope that didn't happen."

843
00:54:45,840 --> 00:54:48,240
That's, that's really nice.

844
00:54:48,242 --> 00:54:50,108
Um, what is your,
is your daypack?

845
00:54:50,110 --> 00:54:51,876
They're bringing it up
there for you and Peter?

846
00:54:51,878 --> 00:54:53,845
Um, no.

847
00:54:53,847 --> 00:54:56,481
For me tomorrow, probably.

848
00:54:56,483 --> 00:54:59,217
For on the mountain?

849
00:54:59,219 --> 00:55:01,220
Um, for the summit, yeah.

850
00:55:01,222 --> 00:55:03,789
Hmm, you and Peter are gonna
try and do the whole thing?

851
00:55:03,791 --> 00:55:06,657
Uh, no, Peter won't be here
for a couple of days probably.

852
00:55:06,659 --> 00:55:08,860
Oh, who are you
climbing with tomorrow?

853
00:55:08,862 --> 00:55:11,829
Um, yeah, we'll just see.

854
00:55:11,831 --> 00:55:13,867
Oh, okay, okay.

855
00:55:17,003 --> 00:55:20,539
Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it
tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who

856
00:55:20,541 --> 00:55:22,039
you're climbing with?

857
00:55:22,041 --> 00:55:24,675
Um, well, I'm not like
not telling you, but yeah.

858
00:55:24,677 --> 00:55:25,943
Whoa, Alex.

859
00:55:25,945 --> 00:55:28,179
- Whoa.
- Whoa. -Whoa.

860
00:55:28,181 --> 00:55:29,548
How do you feel?

861
00:55:29,550 --> 00:55:32,784
I'm, you know,
I mean, excited.

862
00:55:32,786 --> 00:55:35,854
That's really exciting. Is it
that feeling when you're like...

863
00:55:35,856 --> 00:55:38,155
So exciting I'm gonna
go right back to my book.

864
00:55:38,157 --> 00:55:40,661
Where you're like, no,
I'm not reading it.

865
00:55:41,929 --> 00:55:43,228
When did you decide?

866
00:55:43,230 --> 00:55:44,729
When did you decide
to do it tomorrow?

867
00:55:44,731 --> 00:55:47,902
No, just, you know, uh, yesterday
or the day before or something.

868
00:55:48,469 --> 00:55:51,639
Hmm, I'm processing.

869
00:56:17,164 --> 00:56:20,197
I wanna, like I wanna have this more,
like, holistic approach that you have where

870
00:56:20,199 --> 00:56:21,432
you're like "Well,
we're all gonna die,

871
00:56:21,434 --> 00:56:23,936
like might as well do what we
wanna do while we're here and

872
00:56:23,938 --> 00:56:28,242
it's okay when people die," but I feel
like I want you to meet me halfway

873
00:56:29,876 --> 00:56:34,548
and when you solo to
take me into the equation

874
00:56:35,715 --> 00:56:36,981
and then I think you said...

875
00:56:36,983 --> 00:56:39,786
Is there a question? -Some,
there's going to be. -Okay.

876
00:56:40,186 --> 00:56:43,088
Um, would putting me into the
equation actually ever change anything?

877
00:56:43,090 --> 00:56:46,126
Would you actually make
decisions differently?

878
00:56:46,494 --> 00:56:51,266
If I had some kind of obligation
to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah,

879
00:56:51,565 --> 00:56:53,632
obviously I'd have to
give up soloing and, um.

880
00:56:53,634 --> 00:56:57,235
Was me asking you, do you
see that as an obligation now?

881
00:56:57,237 --> 00:56:58,936
...Uh, no, no.

882
00:56:58,938 --> 00:57:00,606
Oh.

883
00:57:00,608 --> 00:57:06,211
No, but I appreciate your concerns and
I, you know, I respect that, but, but I,

884
00:57:06,213 --> 00:57:08,347
in no way, feel obligated, no.

885
00:57:08,349 --> 00:57:09,780
To maximize lifetime?

886
00:57:09,782 --> 00:57:12,853
No, no, I don't know.

887
00:57:14,422 --> 00:57:19,059
Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer,"
I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't.

888
00:57:20,193 --> 00:57:21,994
You know, I'm already
doing my best.

889
00:57:21,996 --> 00:57:24,162
So I could just, like, not do certain
things, but then you have, like,

890
00:57:24,164 --> 00:57:26,898
weird simmering resentment because
it's things that you love most in life

891
00:57:26,900 --> 00:57:28,867
have now been squashed.

892
00:57:28,869 --> 00:57:31,806
You know what I mean?

893
00:57:46,186 --> 00:57:50,021
- What time is it? -3:30.
- Oh.

894
00:57:50,023 --> 00:57:52,923
I just woke up one
minute before my alarm.

895
00:57:52,925 --> 00:57:55,630
Yeah, you woke up
before or after?

896
00:57:56,829 --> 00:57:59,933
One minute before.

897
00:58:16,382 --> 00:58:19,953
It's like always about, like,
excellence and perfection.

898
00:58:22,690 --> 00:58:25,994
And I was certainly raised that way, you
know, that you need to, you need to perform.

899
00:58:29,862 --> 00:58:32,863
It's also just like kind of rad because
you're doing something for the first time

900
00:58:32,865 --> 00:58:35,302
in human history.

901
00:58:49,717 --> 00:58:53,021
Let's hope it's
a low gravity day.

902
00:58:55,222 --> 00:58:57,856
Bye, Huck, see
you at the ground.

903
00:58:57,858 --> 00:59:01,028
- Meet you in the ground.
- See you, buddy.

904
00:59:27,987 --> 00:59:31,291
This sucks.
I don't wanna be here.

905
00:59:36,764 --> 00:59:39,733
I'm over it.

906
00:59:40,266 --> 00:59:41,398
What happened?

907
00:59:41,400 --> 00:59:43,869
I cheated on
the slab down there.

908
00:59:43,871 --> 00:59:45,369
Might as well radio it.

909
00:59:45,371 --> 00:59:48,141
Do you
wanna talk to him?

910
00:59:49,376 --> 00:59:52,043
I don't even know what to say,
it's, like, kind of embarrassing.

911
00:59:52,045 --> 00:59:54,246
Uh, hey, whoever's on
the radio, this is Alex.

912
00:59:54,248 --> 00:59:57,050
Um, I think I'm bailing.

913
00:59:59,018 --> 01:00:00,818
Wait, could you repeat?

914
01:00:00,820 --> 01:00:03,088
<i>I
think he's bailing from heart.</i>

915
01:00:03,090 --> 01:00:06,126
<i>Bailing
from heart, that's correct.</i>

916
01:00:09,429 --> 01:00:12,166
It's kind
of disturbing.

917
01:00:16,402 --> 01:00:19,304
Yeah, I wonder what it was.

918
01:00:19,306 --> 01:00:22,139
I don't know if I can
try with everybody watching.

919
01:00:22,141 --> 01:00:23,974
It's too scary.

920
01:00:23,976 --> 01:00:26,913
Just can't, like,
try for real.

921
01:00:41,094 --> 01:00:44,229
- Oh, my gosh. -Good morning.
- What are you doing?

922
01:00:44,231 --> 01:00:45,530
Oh, I bailed.

923
01:00:45,532 --> 01:00:47,097
You bailed, oh?

924
01:00:47,099 --> 01:00:48,300
Yeah, it's chilly outside.

925
01:00:48,302 --> 01:00:49,967
It's chilly, okay.

926
01:00:49,969 --> 01:00:52,072
Okay.

927
01:00:52,840 --> 01:00:53,905
What's going on?

928
01:00:53,907 --> 01:00:58,513
Well, not much.

929
01:00:58,713 --> 01:00:59,912
What's up?

930
01:00:59,914 --> 01:01:02,012
Oh, I just, I went up to Free
Blast and I was, like, nah,

931
01:01:02,014 --> 01:01:03,548
I'm not gonna' do it. But...

932
01:01:03,550 --> 01:01:05,016
Good for you.

933
01:01:05,018 --> 01:01:06,383
Yeah, well, it's just a
little weird, you know?

934
01:01:06,385 --> 01:01:08,119
- Yup.
- Yeah. -No.

935
01:01:08,121 --> 01:01:12,123
Right, I mean there's just too many random,
random folks about and stuff, whatever.

936
01:01:12,125 --> 01:01:13,458
Uh-hmm, yeah.

937
01:01:13,460 --> 01:01:16,228
But, like, basically I did the
first half of the first slab.

938
01:01:16,230 --> 01:01:17,563
Uh-hmm.

939
01:01:17,565 --> 01:01:19,965
And then, uh, and then I
just was like, "Oh, I don't know."

940
01:01:19,967 --> 01:01:21,166
And my feet.

941
01:01:21,168 --> 01:01:22,601
Right, you made the
perfect decision.

942
01:01:22,603 --> 01:01:24,168
I don't know though,
I'm just like.

943
01:01:24,170 --> 01:01:25,369
Yeah.

944
01:01:25,371 --> 01:01:27,438
But now it all has to
drag on longer, I'm like.

945
01:01:27,440 --> 01:01:30,307
You, yeah, I mean, you
never have to go for it.

946
01:01:30,309 --> 01:01:31,242
You can just.

947
01:01:31,244 --> 01:01:33,211
Well, I just need
it to end, you know.

948
01:01:33,213 --> 01:01:34,646
Yeah, yeah, all the...

949
01:01:34,648 --> 01:01:36,548
Yeah, you know what
I'm talking about.

950
01:01:36,550 --> 01:01:39,053
The circus surrounding you.

951
01:01:42,922 --> 01:01:46,226
I just can't imagine,
I wonder if he got nervous.

952
01:01:47,594 --> 01:01:50,228
Is that possible?

953
01:01:50,230 --> 01:01:52,132
Oh, man.

954
01:01:52,465 --> 01:01:55,367
There's a lot of things that I
don't totally understand about him.

955
01:01:55,369 --> 01:01:56,601
You know?

956
01:01:56,603 --> 01:01:57,969
Yeah, I know.

957
01:01:57,971 --> 01:02:02,275
I mean in some ways it'd be kind of
reassuring that Spock has nerves.

958
01:02:13,519 --> 01:02:16,121
It was the first time I've ever
gone up on something like real and

959
01:02:16,123 --> 01:02:17,923
then not done it.

960
01:02:17,925 --> 01:02:23,130
But it's also the first time I've ever gone up
on something real with people all watching.

961
01:02:23,396 --> 01:02:27,001
By myself, I maybe would have just,
like, persevered, I don't know,

962
01:02:27,568 --> 01:02:31,202
maybe I just suck, but,

963
01:02:31,204 --> 01:02:34,575
you know, at least I've
like, at least I've tried.

964
01:02:57,431 --> 01:02:59,367
Thanks for
meeting us again.

965
01:03:03,070 --> 01:03:06,972
It's funny, it always has a certain
smell in here, and I wonder if it's

966
01:03:06,974 --> 01:03:08,405
the paint or the.

967
01:03:08,407 --> 01:03:10,911
Yeah, it's
the fresh paint.

968
01:03:11,278 --> 01:03:14,248
Dining room with
probably also bookshelves.

969
01:03:15,481 --> 01:03:17,081
Wait, so what
am, what am I signing?

970
01:03:17,083 --> 01:03:19,351
"Buyers of unit approves
the home inspection."

971
01:03:19,353 --> 01:03:24,488
Yeah, Alex told me I get
one furniture question a day.

972
01:03:24,490 --> 01:03:26,458
I've always thought
that I ought to buy a house,

973
01:03:26,460 --> 01:03:30,061
just haven't quite had the energy
to make it all happen myself.

974
01:03:30,063 --> 01:03:32,630
I think Sanni will be stoked to have
a place to live and there's so much

975
01:03:32,632 --> 01:03:35,135
climbing all around Vegas.

976
01:03:35,603 --> 01:03:40,942
Big sectional here and
chair or like sofa and two chairs.

977
01:03:43,677 --> 01:03:46,380
Potential, like, bar area.

978
01:03:48,047 --> 01:03:49,680
I would just sleep
straight on the carpet.

979
01:03:49,682 --> 01:03:51,952
It'd be like.

980
01:03:59,192 --> 01:04:03,293
Alex was a huge jerk watching
me struggle with the tape measure,

981
01:04:03,295 --> 01:04:06,331
being an asshole standing by
commenting on how stupid I look,

982
01:04:06,333 --> 01:04:10,635
but not actually offering to help
or be productive or kind in any way.

983
01:04:10,637 --> 01:04:13,470
And so now it's
all gone to shit.

984
01:04:13,472 --> 01:04:16,576
Yeah, you're asking about our
domestic bliss, it's nonexistent.

985
01:04:17,411 --> 01:04:20,244
You're so angry, but
it's cracking, it's cracking.

986
01:04:20,246 --> 01:04:21,445
It's not cracking.

987
01:04:21,447 --> 01:04:22,713
Yeah, it is, it's cracking.

988
01:04:22,715 --> 01:04:24,315
No, it's not,
I'm still angry.

989
01:04:24,317 --> 01:04:25,617
I can tell you're cracking.

990
01:04:25,619 --> 01:04:27,151
I'm not cracking.

991
01:04:27,153 --> 01:04:28,720
But you're not that
angry, you're cracking.

992
01:04:28,722 --> 01:04:30,387
I'm not cracking.

993
01:04:30,389 --> 01:04:32,456
This is firm
resolve of hatred.

994
01:04:32,458 --> 01:04:34,661
Yeah, yeah, yeah.

995
01:04:36,063 --> 01:04:39,266
Oh, boy.

996
01:04:40,467 --> 01:04:43,200
That one seems very
big and very wide.

997
01:04:43,202 --> 01:04:44,739
Oh.

998
01:04:46,472 --> 01:04:49,110
Whoa, that seems really deep.

999
01:04:50,643 --> 01:04:52,342
We should just ask somebody.

1000
01:04:52,344 --> 01:04:53,644
Hmm, I know.

1001
01:04:53,646 --> 01:04:55,079
Let's keep looking
for the smaller ones.

1002
01:04:55,081 --> 01:04:56,414
Oh, this is the $400, that's.

1003
01:04:56,416 --> 01:04:57,682
That's it!

1004
01:04:57,684 --> 01:04:58,849
That's it, that's our jam.

1005
01:04:58,851 --> 01:05:00,351
This is actually,
like, kind of perfect.

1006
01:05:00,353 --> 01:05:03,257
This is like so adequate.

1007
01:05:05,458 --> 01:05:06,825
We have a fridge!

1008
01:05:06,827 --> 01:05:09,764
- Hmm.
- Yay! -That success.

1009
01:05:10,297 --> 01:05:11,829
Is it possible?

1010
01:05:11,831 --> 01:05:17,371
We had like a sort of a rough patch
since Yosemite, where, I don't know,

1011
01:05:18,137 --> 01:05:22,108
Alex isn't super good about
putting a name to how he's feeling.

1012
01:05:22,342 --> 01:05:25,142
So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but
I don't really know why and I'm not gonna

1013
01:05:25,144 --> 01:05:27,614
take the time
to figure it out."

1014
01:05:28,148 --> 01:05:31,182
I'm patient, but
I also have self-respect.

1015
01:05:31,184 --> 01:05:35,256
And then, you know, the second that I
start being mad, he's just like "foom."

1016
01:05:38,657 --> 01:05:40,224
How do you make coffee?

1017
01:05:40,226 --> 01:05:42,726
You need like a filter.

1018
01:05:42,728 --> 01:05:46,430
Definitely my relationship with Sanni
is, like, the most healthy and stable

1019
01:05:46,432 --> 01:05:48,601
relationship I've ever had.

1020
01:05:48,934 --> 01:05:51,337
Oh, look at that, the only
thing in the cupboard.

1021
01:05:51,938 --> 01:05:53,737
Certainly more communicative.

1022
01:05:53,739 --> 01:05:56,240
Even Sanni over the year and a
half we've been dating is like,

1023
01:05:56,242 --> 01:05:58,275
"Wow, you've
really blossomed."

1024
01:05:58,277 --> 01:05:59,945
Well, that's not
really promising.

1025
01:05:59,947 --> 01:06:02,780
And you think you put the coffee in there
and then you push the water through it?

1026
01:06:02,782 --> 01:06:04,148
I don't how to, um.

1027
01:06:04,150 --> 01:06:06,550
Hello,
oh, my gosh, wow!

1028
01:06:06,552 --> 01:06:08,219
Oh, like, how's, why?

1029
01:06:08,221 --> 01:06:09,653
Is this what it is
to be, um, a homeowner?

1030
01:06:09,655 --> 01:06:11,856
You get breakfast and coffee
made for you every day?

1031
01:06:11,858 --> 01:06:14,492
I don't, I don't understand
the, do you put the coffee in here and

1032
01:06:14,494 --> 01:06:15,559
then put the water to it?

1033
01:06:15,561 --> 01:06:16,793
It's really
complicated.

1034
01:06:16,795 --> 01:06:19,500
But she sees
things in a different way.

1035
01:06:19,699 --> 01:06:23,169
For Sanni the point of
life is like happiness.

1036
01:06:23,369 --> 01:06:27,307
To be with people that make you feel
fulfilled and to have a good time.

1037
01:06:27,608 --> 01:06:30,644
For me it's all
about performance.

1038
01:06:31,077 --> 01:06:35,149
The thing is anybody
can be happy and cozy.

1039
01:06:35,349 --> 01:06:38,786
Nothing good happens in the
world by being happy and cozy.

1040
01:06:40,887 --> 01:06:44,825
You know, like nobody achieves anything
great because they're happy and cozy.

1041
01:06:46,259 --> 01:06:50,697
You never wanna feel like you're
getting in the way of someone's goal.

1042
01:06:51,565 --> 01:06:56,369
And it's really hard for me
to grasp why he wants this.

1043
01:06:58,204 --> 01:07:02,876
But it's his dream and he
obviously still really wants it.

1044
01:07:06,679 --> 01:07:09,847
It's about
being a warrior.

1045
01:07:09,849 --> 01:07:12,849
It doesn't matter about
the cause necessarily.

1046
01:07:12,851 --> 01:07:16,356
This is your path and you will
pursue it with excellence.

1047
01:07:18,391 --> 01:07:21,327
You face your fear because
your goal demands it.

1048
01:07:22,661 --> 01:07:26,500
That is the goddamn
warrior spirit.

1049
01:07:27,132 --> 01:07:30,737
I think that the free soloing mentality
is pretty close to warrior culture,

1050
01:07:31,704 --> 01:07:36,242
where you give something 100% focus
because your life depends on it.

1051
01:08:06,539 --> 01:08:11,041
The move I gave up on in the fall was a
right foot on this little edge right here,

1052
01:08:11,043 --> 01:08:15,315
and I basically just have to like stand
on the right foot and just trust it.

1053
01:08:15,516 --> 01:08:18,583
And I was like, "I don't really wanna
have my whole life depend on like standing

1054
01:08:18,585 --> 01:08:21,555
on this one right foot."

1055
01:08:22,822 --> 01:08:25,659
But maybe I
can find another way.

1056
01:08:31,864 --> 01:08:35,469
I think this is like kind
of the business of the whole deal,

1057
01:08:36,502 --> 01:08:39,803
which is interesting because if you're
climbing with a rope it's not at all,

1058
01:08:39,805 --> 01:08:42,942
but without a rope it is.

1059
01:09:11,904 --> 01:09:17,543
That's my variation,
I just don't know.

1060
01:09:26,086 --> 01:09:30,824
I think that he's only comfortable
climbing in front of the camera or in front of

1061
01:09:31,090 --> 01:09:34,795
any other people when he's
really confident and secure.

1062
01:09:35,395 --> 01:09:38,799
And that's been the dilemma that this
whole production has faced, right?

1063
01:09:39,032 --> 01:09:40,231
- Yeah.
- From the beginning.

1064
01:09:40,233 --> 01:09:42,967
Our being there is
always going to change things.

1065
01:09:42,969 --> 01:09:46,704
What made the big difference for me
is that he did turn around last year.

1066
01:09:46,706 --> 01:09:50,511
He didn't feel the pressure to have
to do it because we were there.

1067
01:09:51,677 --> 01:09:55,015
And I really, like
that to me said a lot.

1068
01:09:55,914 --> 01:09:58,018
It meant a lot.

1069
01:10:15,402 --> 01:10:19,003
Is that what you'd
want, us not to film it?

1070
01:10:19,005 --> 01:10:21,539
Hmm, no.

1071
01:10:21,541 --> 01:10:24,709
I mean, hard to say it but I care
about doing it a lot more than I care

1072
01:10:24,711 --> 01:10:26,410
about it being filmed.

1073
01:10:26,412 --> 01:10:27,879
You know?

1074
01:10:27,881 --> 01:10:30,481
You could put your foot down
at any time, and, and, you know.

1075
01:10:30,483 --> 01:10:31,982
Yeah, I mean,
I'm aware of it.

1076
01:10:31,984 --> 01:10:33,750
Like, if I want to, I just won't
tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it

1077
01:10:33,752 --> 01:10:34,951
on my own terms.

1078
01:10:34,953 --> 01:10:36,219
Yeah, exactly.

1079
01:10:36,221 --> 01:10:38,589
Like whatever, like I mean
that's obviously on the table.

1080
01:10:38,591 --> 01:10:40,758
But obviously that would
hose everybody, you know?

1081
01:10:40,760 --> 01:10:41,858
Yeah.

1082
01:10:41,860 --> 01:10:43,193
If you woke up
tomorrow and you were like,

1083
01:10:43,195 --> 01:10:44,461
"You know what,
screw all of this,

1084
01:10:44,463 --> 01:10:46,830
I just don't care enough, like
I don't feel good enough."

1085
01:10:46,832 --> 01:10:48,333
You know,
but that's like, yeah,

1086
01:10:48,335 --> 01:10:50,535
I mean, of course I, I mean, I know
I could do that and just walk away.

1087
01:10:50,537 --> 01:10:55,476
But it's like, you know, I
mean, you know, I don't want to.

1088
01:11:07,953 --> 01:11:11,656
Having all these people around
requires a higher level of preparation,

1089
01:11:11,658 --> 01:11:14,495
a higher level of
confidence basically.

1090
01:11:14,694 --> 01:11:18,028
I need to like dial it in so much that,
you know, it doesn't matter if there's

1091
01:11:18,030 --> 01:11:20,731
like a stadium of people watching me because
it's so easy for me that I'm just like,

1092
01:11:20,733 --> 01:11:23,003
"Check this out."
And just do it.

1093
01:11:24,436 --> 01:11:27,940
Pitch one, stay left towards the
top, splitter, it feels more secure.

1094
01:11:28,975 --> 01:11:31,942
Pitch two, trust the right
foot, rock on, trust the feet,

1095
01:11:31,944 --> 01:11:33,577
right hand to
the last under cling.

1096
01:11:33,579 --> 01:11:35,245
Eight, easy romp. Go fast.

1097
01:11:35,247 --> 01:11:38,583
Nine, stay outside of the
down climb, careful of blocks.

1098
01:11:38,585 --> 01:11:42,486
Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the
corner, key left-hand pinch thing,

1099
01:11:42,488 --> 01:11:46,057
right foot back step on the lower edge,
left foot faced against the wall, stand up.

1100
01:11:46,059 --> 01:11:49,963
Left hand to the huge ear jug thing,
switch the feet, match the big jug,

1101
01:11:50,395 --> 01:11:53,897
left foot jams into the crack, then you see
right-hand down pulling on the top part of the

1102
01:11:53,899 --> 01:11:57,535
jug, left hand goes into this flared slot
thing, which you can either fist jam or hand

1103
01:11:57,537 --> 01:11:59,836
jam, either way, it's like
a flare jam in the slot.

1104
01:11:59,838 --> 01:12:03,773
Sag down onto it, right hand crosses
under to an under cling, side pull.

1105
01:12:03,775 --> 01:12:06,910
Right foot sinks low to a flat edge,
left foot steps through to an edge,

1106
01:12:06,912 --> 01:12:10,647
right foot back steps really high so you
can sag your weight around the corner

1107
01:12:10,649 --> 01:12:12,215
without having to swing.

1108
01:12:12,217 --> 01:12:15,085
Left foot out to the big horn, right
hand through to a little finger pocket,

1109
01:12:15,087 --> 01:12:18,255
you go left foot out to an edge around the
corner, you can actually push all the way

1110
01:12:18,257 --> 01:12:20,657
into the corner, then you can grab
this down pulling right hand, flat,

1111
01:12:20,659 --> 01:12:22,360
like a small crimp.

1112
01:12:22,362 --> 01:12:24,861
Left hand to the other under cling, switch
your feet on the rail and then just reach

1113
01:12:24,863 --> 01:12:27,166
through the jugs,
and then it's done.

1114
01:12:27,399 --> 01:12:31,736
The key thing for the crux, pull
hard, trust feet, "trust" underline,

1115
01:12:31,738 --> 01:12:34,004
double exclamation
point, period.

1116
01:12:34,006 --> 01:12:36,876
Autopilot. Period.

1117
01:12:56,828 --> 01:12:59,863
I mean, you know, it's not
surprising that Ueli died.

1118
01:12:59,865 --> 01:13:03,567
Considering he's always doing crazy
dangerous things, but I kind of thought

1119
01:13:03,569 --> 01:13:06,239
he was gonna survive.

1120
01:13:08,341 --> 01:13:13,744
Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs
that you just kind of squeak out once.

1121
01:13:13,746 --> 01:13:17,150
You know I've
always tried not to.

1122
01:13:17,350 --> 01:13:20,217
But when I was talking to him
about, about Free Rider, I was like,

1123
01:13:20,219 --> 01:13:22,852
"Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those
routes that I just need to go squeak

1124
01:13:22,854 --> 01:13:25,992
out once and just like
make sure it's my day."

1125
01:13:26,592 --> 01:13:30,029
You know, obviously
it wasn't his day.

1126
01:13:39,204 --> 01:13:42,740
After Ueli died, it's interesting
with Alex, how he justifies all that

1127
01:13:42,742 --> 01:13:45,045
stuff away so quickly.

1128
01:13:45,645 --> 01:13:47,878
He was just kind of like
shrugged it off, he's like

1129
01:13:47,880 --> 01:13:50,317
"Oh, yeah, yeah,
it could happen."

1130
01:13:54,252 --> 01:13:56,821
I talked to Alex for a
really long time about all of this.

1131
01:13:56,823 --> 01:13:58,789
And I was like,
"What if you die?

1132
01:13:58,791 --> 01:14:02,326
Like what if you die
just like Ueli died?"

1133
01:14:02,328 --> 01:14:06,263
Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a
really beautiful relationship and they

1134
01:14:06,265 --> 01:14:08,933
would climb together.

1135
01:14:08,935 --> 01:14:13,303
Alex said at one point,
"Well, what did she expect?"

1136
01:14:13,305 --> 01:14:17,043
And I got, I was like, "What do
you mean what did she expect?"

1137
01:14:17,877 --> 01:14:23,783
I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex!
And I don't expect that."

1138
01:14:24,283 --> 01:14:27,718
Tons of more people
have died and Alex is kind of

1139
01:14:27,720 --> 01:14:32,857
the most likely to die,
but I know he's gonna do it.

1140
01:14:32,859 --> 01:14:36,630
So I'd like to be there to help
him prepare as well as he can.

1141
01:14:38,864 --> 01:14:40,099
Oh, shit.

1142
01:14:40,432 --> 01:14:44,434
If he went to solo it and fell and
died, and I hadn't helped him prepare

1143
01:14:44,436 --> 01:14:46,003
that would be harder for me.

1144
01:14:46,005 --> 01:14:49,040
Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of
the people that's gonna be able to do

1145
01:14:49,042 --> 01:14:51,912
that the best with
him and so, I should.

1146
01:14:59,786 --> 01:15:03,823
He said he's feeling
tinges of, of like game time.

1147
01:15:05,457 --> 01:15:08,161
I think there's a
chance he goes tomorrow.

1148
01:15:12,198 --> 01:15:16,267
They are remote cameras,
because we wanna stay out of Alex's

1149
01:15:16,269 --> 01:15:18,238
line of sight
when he's doing it.

1150
01:15:21,106 --> 01:15:23,907
Okay, everybody knows what
to do if something goes wrong.

1151
01:15:23,909 --> 01:15:26,646
Josh, just to confirm
who should Mikey call?

1152
01:15:28,046 --> 01:15:30,313
The easiest thing
would just be 911.

1153
01:15:30,315 --> 01:15:34,086
And that we will get kicked into
gear and tell them what you know.

1154
01:15:34,487 --> 01:15:35,820
A climber.

1155
01:15:35,822 --> 01:15:37,754
Yeah.

1156
01:15:37,756 --> 01:15:40,826
All right, no
mistakes tomorrow.

1157
01:15:51,304 --> 01:15:55,371
I'm worried that tomorrow
is gonna be it, like, you know,

1158
01:15:55,373 --> 01:15:59,278
like Alex's existence
will be over.

1159
01:16:01,046 --> 01:16:05,014
I was like, "Oh, I have to be
prepared for that outcome and

1160
01:16:05,016 --> 01:16:08,755
I have to realize that
that is a real possibility."

1161
01:16:13,192 --> 01:16:15,162
Oh, God.

1162
01:16:24,871 --> 01:16:28,304
Remember when you said you were
gonna stand up for my goodbye?

1163
01:16:28,306 --> 01:16:31,075
- Oh, is it time? -Yeah.
- Oh.

1164
01:16:31,077 --> 01:16:34,014
But you don't have to stand
up, but you have to sit up.

1165
01:16:34,381 --> 01:16:38,018
Oh, you could've
just left me.

1166
01:16:39,417 --> 01:16:43,089
No, no, I'm never gonna go.

1167
01:16:44,055 --> 01:16:46,322
Okay, drive safe.

1168
01:16:46,324 --> 01:16:49,962
Ciao, see you later!

1169
01:17:06,078 --> 01:17:08,312
I mean, I didn't
ask her to leave.

1170
01:17:08,314 --> 01:17:10,013
I mean, I would never
ask her to leave.

1171
01:17:10,015 --> 01:17:14,985
But, you know, I think she kind of understands
that, that it's probably easier for

1172
01:17:14,987 --> 01:17:18,158
me if she's gone.

1173
01:17:20,126 --> 01:17:22,860
I don't, I, the whole like
saying goodbye thing I'm like

1174
01:17:22,862 --> 01:17:25,929
"I'll probably see her in
like five days or something."

1175
01:17:25,931 --> 01:17:28,434
It's not like goodbye, it's
just goodbye for a few days.

1176
01:17:34,140 --> 01:17:37,575
You know, I mean there's just
that like weird thought of like,

1177
01:17:37,577 --> 01:17:41,381
don't freaking let that be
our last hug or whatever.

1178
01:17:46,085 --> 01:17:50,055
You know, like I shouldn't
be having that thought...

1179
01:17:54,159 --> 01:17:57,797
of like "What if
something happens?

1180
01:17:58,064 --> 01:18:01,334
Like what if I don't
see him again?"

1181
01:18:02,868 --> 01:18:05,936
You know, like, "Why
do you wanna do this?

1182
01:18:05,938 --> 01:18:09,442
Like it's a
totally crazy goal."

1183
01:19:43,636 --> 01:19:45,436
<i>Hey, Jimmy, do you copy?</i>

1184
01:19:45,438 --> 01:19:47,574
This is Jimmy.

1185
01:19:49,542 --> 01:19:52,012
<i>He
just started climbing.</i>

1186
01:20:29,681 --> 01:20:32,549
It is so
slippery right there.

1187
01:20:32,551 --> 01:20:34,421
This is where he bailed.

1188
01:21:32,711 --> 01:21:36,546
Mikey, do you copy?
This is Jimmy.

1189
01:21:36,548 --> 01:21:38,749
<i>Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey.</i>

1190
01:21:38,751 --> 01:21:42,155
Can you let me know when
he's through the slab pitch?

1191
01:21:43,288 --> 01:21:45,522
<i>He's through the slab pitch.</i>

1192
01:21:45,524 --> 01:21:47,657
He's through it?

1193
01:21:47,659 --> 01:21:50,296
<i>Yup,
he's almost at half dollar.</i>

1194
01:21:50,828 --> 01:21:53,233
He's moving fast.

1195
01:21:54,367 --> 01:21:58,570
<i>Yes, Jimmy,
he is of course ahead of schedule.</i>

1196
01:22:01,172 --> 01:22:03,208
So how far
is he from Mammoth?

1197
01:22:04,310 --> 01:22:06,279
<i>Doing
the half dollar right now.</i>

1198
01:22:23,561 --> 01:22:26,498
6:21 he's down climbing
to Heart Ledge there's a party,

1199
01:22:27,533 --> 01:22:29,836
in a Porter Ledge still.

1200
01:22:32,637 --> 01:22:35,408
They're awake and
there's, they're aware.

1201
01:22:36,007 --> 01:22:38,744
They're like "Here comes
Honnold." Oh, my God.

1202
01:22:39,778 --> 01:22:42,815
A Dude in a bunny suit.

1203
01:22:46,685 --> 01:22:48,552
The person is getting up now.

1204
01:22:48,554 --> 01:22:50,553
Uh yeah, no there's a tail.

1205
01:22:50,555 --> 01:22:56,695
This person has a tail and it's
either a chicken head or a bunny.

1206
01:22:57,229 --> 01:22:59,432
Oh, it's a unicorn.

1207
01:22:59,631 --> 01:23:01,768
Come on.
Who does that?

1208
01:23:02,935 --> 01:23:05,538
I've never seen
that on El Cap.

1209
01:23:06,337 --> 01:23:09,673
Wow, and Alex is gone.

1210
01:23:09,675 --> 01:23:12,512
Okay, so he's entering
the Hollow Flake at 6:49.

1211
01:23:12,878 --> 01:23:16,515
He just did the Hollow Flake down
climb and is in the Hollow Flake now.

1212
01:23:21,654 --> 01:23:25,688
And then the thing about Free Rider
is that from the base of Hollow Flake

1213
01:23:25,690 --> 01:23:29,429
it's one crack system all the way to
the top which is like what, 2,000 feet?

1214
01:23:31,963 --> 01:23:35,768
That's the most magnificent
crack on planet earth.

1215
01:23:43,641 --> 01:23:45,041
<i>Doug, this is Jimmy.</i>

1216
01:23:45,043 --> 01:23:48,448
<i>Do you know if they've radioed if
he's gotten to the Monster yet?</i>

1217
01:23:50,349 --> 01:23:52,185
<i>Yeah, he's there now.</i>

1218
01:24:24,984 --> 01:24:28,655
He's almost through it.

1219
01:24:42,033 --> 01:24:44,901
There, he's coming
up now actually.

1220
01:24:44,903 --> 01:24:47,903
Now we see him like at
the same height as the spire.

1221
01:24:47,905 --> 01:24:50,976
But you guys are all in
position ready to go?

1222
01:24:51,844 --> 01:24:56,248
<i>Yeah, Sam and I
are at the bottom of the head wall.</i>

1223
01:24:56,748 --> 01:25:01,220
My guess is he's 15 minutes
from the Boulder Problem or so.

1224
01:26:35,447 --> 01:26:39,418
He just did
the karate kick.

1225
01:26:41,119 --> 01:26:42,921
He's got it.

1226
01:26:47,626 --> 01:26:49,494
Oh, yeah.

1227
01:26:51,063 --> 01:26:52,896
That is way too gnarly.

1228
01:26:52,898 --> 01:26:55,702
- Oh, my God.
- He did it. Jesus.

1229
01:26:58,136 --> 01:27:00,539
He just sent the
boulder problem.

1230
01:27:01,573 --> 01:27:04,577
He must be so stoked.

1231
01:27:05,109 --> 01:27:07,846
I mean to have the slabs and the boulder
problem behind him is monumental.

1232
01:27:12,885 --> 01:27:16,722
- Here's the Enduro huh?
- Yup, this is the Enduro.

1233
01:27:53,091 --> 01:27:56,829
I can't believe you guys
are actually gonna watch.

1234
01:27:57,195 --> 01:28:00,832
Oh, I don't wanna, I don't,
I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no.

1235
01:28:23,889 --> 01:28:26,659
Oh, my God.

1236
01:28:34,533 --> 01:28:36,633
Yeah, that's kind
of exposed right there.

1237
01:28:36,635 --> 01:28:39,872
Oh, my God,
it's so exposed.

1238
01:28:40,171 --> 01:28:42,873
That arête move as he
stepped around has gotta be,

1239
01:28:42,875 --> 01:28:44,241
I mean that's one
of the most exposed moves

1240
01:28:44,243 --> 01:28:48,010
like anywhere on El Cap.

1241
01:28:48,012 --> 01:28:50,515
If you just step out,
it all drops away.

1242
01:29:43,734 --> 01:29:45,837
Yeah, buddy.

1243
01:29:46,505 --> 01:29:49,738
Alex is having
the best day of his life.

1244
01:29:49,740 --> 01:29:52,578
I don't know. Not me.

1245
01:29:52,778 --> 01:29:57,250
I'm done, yeah, no, this is it,
I don't, we don't need to do this again.

1246
01:30:01,886 --> 01:30:03,054
Yeah, no.

1247
01:32:07,078 --> 01:32:09,381
It's over now.

1248
01:32:13,752 --> 01:32:18,356
Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo!

1249
01:32:19,957 --> 01:32:21,424
Oh, God.

1250
01:32:21,426 --> 01:32:24,030
Oh, God, wow.

1251
01:32:25,197 --> 01:32:29,068
Oh, my God, I can't
believe what I just witnessed.

1252
01:33:07,471 --> 01:33:11,174
Oh, God.

1253
01:33:11,176 --> 01:33:13,412
Good to see
you again, yay.

1254
01:33:14,212 --> 01:33:17,049
Wow!

1255
01:33:19,384 --> 01:33:22,020
So delighted.

1256
01:33:22,554 --> 01:33:25,725
That felt so good,
it's freaking raged.

1257
01:33:26,591 --> 01:33:29,894
Like a gigantic weight
off of my shoulders too.

1258
01:33:30,529 --> 01:33:33,199
I have to admit, I mean.

1259
01:33:33,865 --> 01:33:38,804
So delighted,
what a journey.

1260
01:33:39,671 --> 01:33:45,010
Yeah, I just can't even believe
after eight years of dreaming,

1261
01:33:47,212 --> 01:33:50,213
oh San-san's calling me.

1262
01:33:50,215 --> 01:33:51,981
Hello?

1263
01:33:55,052 --> 01:33:56,686
Yeah, so delighted.

1264
01:33:56,688 --> 01:33:59,522
<i>Oh my, you're so
delighted, that's putting it lightly.</i>

1265
01:33:59,524 --> 01:34:02,558
I've like never smiled so much.
Don't say anything too.

1266
01:34:02,560 --> 01:34:04,994
<i>I wanna see it.
What's that?</i>

1267
01:34:04,996 --> 01:34:07,397
<i>Like, I told you I
wanted to see that smile.</i>

1268
01:34:07,399 --> 01:34:09,165
Yeah, I know.

1269
01:34:09,167 --> 01:34:12,434
<i>I've like never cried
so hard and I didn't even see it coming.</i>

1270
01:34:12,436 --> 01:34:16,074
<i>Showing that you talk now,
I was just like "Blah."</i>

1271
01:34:16,475 --> 01:34:18,273
Yeah, no,
I'm, I'm sort of at,

1272
01:34:18,275 --> 01:34:21,180
at risk of crying here too, I'm
like, I feel quite emotional.

1273
01:34:21,747 --> 01:34:25,117
Yeah, no, don't cry
San-san it will make me cry.

1274
01:34:26,350 --> 01:34:28,853
But Claire says cry it.

1275
01:34:29,119 --> 01:34:31,353
I think the movie would be better
if I burst into tears, but I,

1276
01:34:31,355 --> 01:34:32,921
I don't really want to.

1277
01:34:32,923 --> 01:34:35,023
But, well I do want
to kind of, but.

1278
01:34:35,025 --> 01:34:37,593
<i>I'm so happy.</i>

1279
01:34:37,595 --> 01:34:39,027
Oh, God.

1280
01:34:39,029 --> 01:34:41,129
<i>I'm so happy.</i>

1281
01:34:41,131 --> 01:34:42,965
Yeah.

1282
01:34:42,967 --> 01:34:45,904
<i>I'm so happy.</i>

1283
01:34:47,037 --> 01:34:48,271
Well, okay.

1284
01:34:48,273 --> 01:34:51,374
I'll see you, I'll see you in
like six hours or something.

1285
01:34:51,376 --> 01:34:53,610
<i>And
I'll see you soon, yeah.</i>

1286
01:34:53,612 --> 01:34:55,378
Yeah, okay, I love you.

1287
01:34:55,380 --> 01:34:57,280
Thank you so much,
I appreciate you.

1288
01:34:57,282 --> 01:34:58,380
<i>I love you too.</i>

1289
01:34:58,382 --> 01:34:59,949
You're, you're the best.

1290
01:34:59,951 --> 01:35:01,550
<i>And I appreciate
you and I'm really proud of you.</i>

1291
01:35:01,552 --> 01:35:03,122
Yay.

1292
01:35:04,555 --> 01:35:05,888
I don't know.

1293
01:35:05,890 --> 01:35:07,389
I don't, I don't think the mountain
looked that scary this morning.

1294
01:35:07,391 --> 01:35:10,526
It's funny because it does look the
same and hiking up looked the same,

1295
01:35:10,528 --> 01:35:12,661
everything just felt pretty much
the same, except I just didn't have

1296
01:35:12,663 --> 01:35:15,098
much of a backpack.

1297
01:35:15,100 --> 01:35:17,299
I did, I forgot
my rope and rack.

1298
01:35:17,301 --> 01:35:18,902
I felt so good.

1299
01:35:18,904 --> 01:35:21,403
I mean that's why I'm so happy that the
experience was like what I hoped for.

1300
01:35:21,405 --> 01:35:23,973
I didn't compromise on any of the
things that were super important to me.

1301
01:35:23,975 --> 01:35:26,345
Huh, yeah, that felt good.

1302
01:35:27,112 --> 01:35:28,911
All right.

1303
01:35:28,913 --> 01:35:31,349
So what's next, what
are you gonna do Alex?

1304
01:35:31,550 --> 01:35:33,116
Mmm, I'm probably
gonna hang board.

1305
01:35:33,118 --> 01:35:34,587
You're gonna hang board?

1306
01:35:35,253 --> 01:35:38,356
A normal person would probably
take the afternoon off.

1307
01:35:49,935 --> 01:35:51,968
Thanks again for
coming out and climbing with me.

1308
01:35:51,970 --> 01:35:53,303
<i>I'm really proud of you.</i>

1309
01:35:53,305 --> 01:35:55,507
<i>Good work not plummeting
to your death.</i>

1310
01:35:56,307 --> 01:35:58,077
<i>Really glad it's over.</i>

1311
01:35:59,377 --> 01:36:03,182
Oh, my gosh,
you're here, oh, my God!

1312
01:36:05,283 --> 01:36:09,288
Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy
for you, you did it and you're done.

1313
01:36:11,256 --> 01:36:13,322
You know some of the people
that have come before you,

1314
01:36:13,324 --> 01:36:15,991
they, they didn't quit
while they were ahead.

1315
01:36:15,993 --> 01:36:17,393
Maybe it's good.

1316
01:36:17,395 --> 01:36:19,999
Maybe I don't need to
keep charging ahead.

1317
01:36:20,498 --> 01:36:23,499
Right now there's some kid that just read
about El Cap being soloed and he's like.

1318
01:36:23,501 --> 01:36:25,000
"What's bigger?"

1319
01:36:25,002 --> 01:36:26,535
Like "What's cooler?"

1320
01:36:26,537 --> 01:36:29,339
And I mean somebody's gonna think of
something and it's gonna be cooler.

1321
01:36:29,341 --> 01:36:33,512
But I don't know if that will be me.
Maybe, I don't know.

1322
01:36:39,007 --> 01:36:44,007
Subtitles by explosiveskull