OnaScience

OnaScience, The Revised Edition
Updated as of the 8th of April, 2015


Contents

00. Foreword and Introduction
01. Material Science
02. Thermodynamic Stuff
03. Electrical Stuff
04. Warming
	04a. The Debate
	04b. Variables
	04c. The Act of Warming
	04d. Concerns
	04e. The Warmer Itself
05. Care and Repairs
06. DIY for Wire Fetishists
07. FAQs
08. Reading Material
09. tl;dr



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00. Foreword and Introduction


Before anything else, I would like to say that I am not responsible or liable for any damage caused by you or your peers regarding the information that is in this text. Everything contained in this text is for informative purposes only. As said before, I am not liable for any damage caused by ill-informed persons, misunderstandings, inaccuracies or lack of education.

I've written this text as an informative in order to clear misunderstandings and misconceptions mainly regarding the USB warmer, and to further expand the knowledge of the reader regarding one of a NEET's best friends - the onahole. This text will contain a lot of basic science, much of which I will not need to go in depth due to the application. This text will contain what I feel to be important in order to understand and fully utilize the tools readily capable to receive our love, attention, joys, sorrows and semen.





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01. Material Science


This section will cover materials.

In material science we have something called Young's Modulus, often shortened to E, as it is also known as the Elastic Modulus. According to Wikipedia, "Young's modulus, also known as the tensile modulus or elastic modulus, is a measure of the stiffness of an elastic material and is a quantity used to characterize materials. It is defined as the ratio of the stress (force per unit area) along an axis to the strain (ratio of deformation over initial length) along that axis in the range of stress in which Hooke's law holds." Pretty much sums it up. E is the gradient of the graph of stress(force) over strain(stretch). A low E means that the material is soft and pliable, like a bar of lead(Pb). High E means that the material is stiff, like a rod of steel.

A polymer is something that repeats in chains - poly meaning many, and mer meaning chain. I like the plastics part of polymers, since they're so nice and useful. Firstly, let me explain how these polymers work.

Polymers are chains, and the best way to describe it is like a plate of spaghetti without the sauce. The chains, in this case, a strand of spaghetti, are all tangled. If you pull on a strand at one end, the strand will pull out a bit, and as you keep pulling, the strand will start to drag the entire mix of spaghetti. Imagine that millions of times larger and you have a polymer that can stretch and move. These strands like to go back to their plate(just as if you're eating - no leftovers!), and this state is determined by entropy - the measure of disorder.

With heat added to the system, these chains begin to wobble and can stretch out a bit more easily, much like the finger's dexterity depending on temperature. There's something called a Glass Transition Temperature, which I will refer to as Tg, and a Melting Temperature, Tm. After the Tg has been reached, the material begins to soften, becoming malleable, its shape changeable, and becomes "rubbery". I am unsure about its classification, but I like to think that this state is like a very, very viscous liquid - one that holds its shape, but often deforms under gravity. Think melted Maglite cases in hot cars. Even further is the Tm, where the material can begin to flow freely and act like a liquid. Tg and Tm are two very distinct points, and the graphs for Young's Modulus against temperature are often a plateau sloping down then flattening out.

As for plastics, there's a Thermoset, and a Thermoplastic. Thermoplastics are able to go to and from Tg and Tm with relative ease, while Thermosets are "permanent" and breakdown their bonds when enough heat or energy is applied. Some pens are thermosets, and release nasty shit when you burn them. If it doesn't soften and return to it's original stiffness(or flexibility), it's most likely a thermoset. Thermosets are in general, stronger than thermoplastics due to their lack of change after the theoretical Tg. Thermoplastics, will change and morph depending on pressure and temperature. Plasticizers, make polymers softer and more flexible, and may leak over time. They're often used in hairpieces in figures, as they can be flexible.

Most onaholes are made of something called TPE, or Thermoplastic Elastomer. It's essentially a mix of two compounds: the elastomer, and a thermoplastic. It offers the temperature-based properties of a thermoplastic(hence "melting"), and have the elastic properties of elastomers. I'd like to think thermoplastics are hard and stiff, where elastomers have no form but are elastic - like a pen and a rubber band. Pthalates, are mainly used as plasticizers in the plastics industry, and is slowly being replaced in various nations due to varying health concerns and probable carcinogenic properties. UV radiation has the funny ability to ruin the bonds in polymers, resulting in cracking and degradation of the polymer. Leave a plastic shopping bag in the sun for a while and it'll crack and crumble.

There are many kinds of plastics, HDPE, LDPE, PMMA, PTFE and a hell of a lot more. I won't go into further detail regarding entropy, transparency because of our application.

Because of the nature of onaholes, I'll be treating them as a 100% thermoplastic.




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02. Thermodynamic Stuff


This section will cover topics in relation to heat, but not including anything electrical.

Newton's Law of Cooling, also known as Convective Heat Transfer, basically states that the ambient temperature of the surrounding, will be the final temperature of whatever object is being studied, provided that the object and its surroundings does not interfere with each other's temperature. Graphs for these are often exponential(inverse or not) in nature, with the limit being ambient temperature.

Heat Capacity, is the amount of energy or heat, that needs to be applied for a mass of material to be raised 1 degree celsius. For liquid water, you'll need approximately 4000Joules to heat 1kg, 1 Celsius. Units are often J/kg/C, Joules per kg per degree Celsius.

C=J/mΔT; Heat Capacity in Joules per kg per degree Celsius = energy in Joules/(mass in kg * change in Temperature in Celsius)


Along with heat capacity, I've attempted to measure the heat capacity of one of my onahos.

"A delta T of 17C with 9kJ of energy provides us with a heat capacity of ~1324J/kg/C(as a result of 9kJ/(17C * 0.4kg))
Almost a quarter of what water has. I've made some approximations such as temperature, no heat loss and such, so this number should be a ballpark figure. Now, this could be wrong, but it's an estimate. This can be crucial to the amount of time you'll spend trying to heat the damn thing."

It turns out that I read my temperature readings lower than the actual temperature, resulting in a botched experiment. The heat capacity, should still be around that number, but I can't be exact.




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03. Electrical Stuff


This section quickly goes through Ohm's Law, electrical work, and bit of info.

Ohm's Law states that Voltage = Current * Resistance, or V=IR for short.

USB 2.0s on your average computer run a 5V 0.5A.

Joule Heating with Direct Current states that Power = Current * Voltage

Since the warmer produces heat via a laminated nichrome heating element, as confirmed by someone with a Dremel, we can assume that all energy is dissipated as heat, which is the intended outcome.

The warmer, when plugged via usb, has a power output of 2.5W. That's 2.5J/s. It is safe to assume that you can use your warmer with a wall charger offering a higher current.

As someone who has yet to dabble in the effects of a constant current varying voltage source compared to a constant voltage varying current source on a nichrome heating element, I am unaware of any effects the former option has on nichrome.

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04. Warming


04a. The Debate

Some people like to use the USB Warmer, some people like to use warm water, some even like to put it between their thighs. It's preference. All three methods are so simple and easy that we forget how variables come into play. The differences between the two major parties, Warmer and Water, are so minimal that we can ignore it. Water rates, heating bills and such vary from person to person; it may be significant for one, minuscule for the other. I shall cover the topic of efficiency in the next section.


04b. Variables

As previously stated, we tend to forget what the variables are. In this section, I will state the variables apart from TIME for all three methods listed in the previous section. I shall list common variables first, then the rest. I do all three, and still prefer to use the warmer. Again, it's preference.

Firstly, the warmer:
-initial onahole temperature
-ambient temperature
-lube quantity and temperature
-onahole size and properties including heat capacity, length, mass, tunnel length, heat conductivity, average tunnel width
-contact surface area
-rate of change in temperature
-current
-voltage
-power output
-outer insulation
-Law of Cooling


Secondly, water:
-initial onahole temperature
-ambient temperature
-lube quantity and temperature
-onahole size and properties including heat capacity, length, mass, tunnel length, heat conductivity, average tunnel width
-contact surface area
-water temperature
-Law of Cooling(in this case, heating)
-rate of change in temperature
-amount of water used
-surface area of water container
-water heat capacity


Thirdly, the thighs:
-initial onahole temperature
-ambient temperature
-lube quantity and temperature
-onahole size and properties including heat capacity, length, mass, tunnel length, heat conductivity, average tunnel width
-contact surface area
-body temperature
-Law of Cooling(in this case, heating)


04c. The Act of Warming

This section will cover the many reasons as to why people may prefer one method over another, and will discuss the variables listed in the previous section. Common variables will be discussed first.

Initial onahole temperature will determine how long you are likely to spend warming it. Ambient temperature will determine how fast or slow your onahole cools. Due to Newton's Law of Cooling, this applies especially for the water method. Lube quantity and temperature will determine how long a "buffer zone" of lube will need to be affected by the heat source; applies especially for the warmer.

Onahole properties are self explanatory. How one hole heats up is going to be different from another. All of these factors affect all heating methods. Contact surface area affects how much of that heat is transferred to the onahole, how fast or slow the onahole warms up or cools down. Contact surface area from least to greatest is: warmer, thighs, then water.


Firstly, the thighs. I find this rather comfy and lets me "bond" with my hole. I prefer to use this method as a form of keeping the heat in, rather than heating the onahole. Due to the temperature of the human body, reaching that steady state will take rather long.

Secondly, water. With the highest contact area, this method is easily the fastest. With the heat capacity of water, it doesn't take long before your onahole gets warm enough for you. However, due to its heat capacity, and depending on how your water heating system works, it may take a while before you get sufficiently warm water. As with the Law of Cooling, the warmer the water, the faster it gets to a certain temperature, and the rate slows down until it reaches ambient temperature, which is water temperature. This method takes up the most energy, thanks to the heat capacity. If you care about efficiency, don't forget that you have wastewater, heated water, evaporation and heat losses in the container. Again, these are so minimal we do not tend to see them.

Thirdly, the warmer. With the smallest contact area, I think where the area is, is key to heating. Luckily enough, that area is the tunnel. The power output of the warmer is adjustable, as one can easily change voltage or current inputs. In low power outputs, the rate of cooling can affect how fast the warmer warms up, thus I had put insulation as a variable. On its own, a warmer running 5V <0.5A outputs just enough power to have a little heat, but is barely noticeable by touch. Once put in an onahole, the warmer may have enough insulation to warm up and let the onahole keep the heat. However, that is not to say that the onahole does not lose heat. Heat loss via onahole will be the major factor apart from power output, to determine how long your onahole takes to heat. For me, a snug fitting sock remedies this just enough to have considerable reductions in warming time to a preferred temperature.


04d. Concerns

Lube plays an important part in the warmer, as it acts as a sort of buffer zone between the warmer and the onahole. Whatever the warmer does, it does to the lube first, then the lube does to the onahole.

There comes a point where heating breaks even with cooling. Do note that this depends on the variables. Don't try and find out what temperature this is. Because of the design of the onahole, the tunnel and how lube rests inside the tunnel, you'll have to play around with the warming time and see at what point you want to use your hole. The point at which you break even is going to be at such a temperature where the rate of heating is equal to the rate of cooling, reaching a steady state; this point is relative to your wattage. Higher wattage will result in a higher temperature "ceiling", and this is where most people should be worried with the warmer and its possible damaging effects. Lower wattage will definitely result in a longer heating time, but also a lower temperature ceiling. If the onahole isn't insulated(just bare, sitting there with a warmer), the ceiling temperature will be lowered because the rate of cooling is faster. "Melting" onaholes are because the user neglects the multiple variables. Most "melting", if ignored, happens because the onahole reaches near Tg, and the suction, gravity, or even the warmer girth forces the material to go out of shape from their initial mold.

Water does not need to be boiling for damage. A rolling boil, in which water and bubbles surge from an area upwards, will most definitely cause damage. Exposure to around 70 degrees Celsius for a short time may result in minor deformation via handling. 80 degrees and thin areas will begin to soften; the effects of reaching near the Tg are visible. More than 90 degrees and the onahole will definitely be past the Tg, and deformation due to handling will be visible. The Tm is probably in the 150s range, and damage to your onahole will be visible if you happen to come across superheated steam, but I doubt you will let your onahole be exposed to superheated steam.

The warmer is rated at 5V 0.5A, USB specifications. I do not know the effects of larger voltages on nichrome, but I do know that an increase in current should increase output. I use the warmer at 5V 1A, but I do not dare go past 1.5A for heating concerns. It is up to you if you want to use a 5V 3A tablet charger for faster heating times. Like with all things, I expect a decreased lifespan with an increase in power output.

The warmer's wires have been known to be flimsy. The repair section shall cover, well, repairs.

If you experience friction in the hole with the warmer, apply more lubricant in the right places. In the event that the onahole reaches near its Tg, minimal force is applied to pull the warmer out of the hole. If anything does happen, you have lube to thank. Inadequate lubrication on the warmer will result in areas where the onahole will stick to the warmer. Rubber on plastic doesn't have a nice coefficient of static friction, so keeping it lubed is essential. As for pulling warmer out the excessively warm onahole, the amount of force you apply pulling the warmer out(slowly, hopefully) hopefully is the same as the the amount of pressure the hole exerts on the warmer when it's inserted.

NLS does state that there was no thermostat in either warmer. There was never a thermostat in the first place. - "旧モデル同様、本作もUSB2.0端子（500mA）専用で、温度調整やサーモスタット機能などはありません。"


04e. The Warmer Itself

The warmer consists of a plastic shell with a laminated nichrome heating element rolled up inside the shell, wired to a usb cord protruding from the shell. NLS states that the warmer is not waterproof and care must be taken when cleaning with water.

The heat capacity of Nichrome is around 450J/kg/C, PVC having ~1000J/kg/C, and water having roughly 4000J/kg/C

NLS does state that there was no thermostat in either warmer. There was never a thermostat in the first place. - "旧モデル同様、本作もUSB2.0端子（500mA）専用で、温度調整やサーモスタット機能などはありません。"




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05. Care and Repairs

Most damage is because of flimsy wiring. Shine a light through the warmer, cut up the warmer at the USB end and inspect. As for wiring, I prefer 18AWG. That's my personal preference, though, as I have tons of it, and I've used them for large current drawing devices such as LEDs. The insulation is also nice. For testing, either wire an LED in series, or have a voltmeter or similar instruments to test. Glue it back together. If the entire USB wire needs replacement, make sure you tie a knot in the warmer, and use high temp melt hot glue to seal the end.




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06. DIY for Wire Fetishists

Use Ohm's Law, Thevenin's Theorem and a basic understanding of electrical goods, a bit of googling and you should be able to wire up your own power source. All you need is a female USB connector.

Your local electronics shop should have some variable resistors. Wire some up with some electrical knowledge and you should be good to go. Remember that changes in temperature aren't instant.




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07. FAQs

Can I use portable chargers?
You can also use powerbanks or portable chargers. Make sure to look at the output. Most powerbanks output at 5V, but amperage varies. I wouldn't dare go past 1.5A, though.

Will the warmer melt?
For something designed to output large amounts of heat, I really doubt it unless the circumstances are ridiculous. Either it's a thermoplastic(but I doubt it is) that has a brilliantly high Tg, or it's a thermoset that has a high degradation temperature, the latter being the most likely. I have yet to succeed in destroying a common thermoset by heating it to 80 degrees Celsius.

Does the warmer have a thermostat?
No. Read the damn page on NLS. "旧モデル同様、本作もUSB2.0端子（500mA）専用で、温度調整やサーモスタット機能などはありません。" - "Like the previous model which was for USB 2.0(500mA) use, there is no temperature control or thermostat."
Learn Japanese, use Rikai-chan/kun or equivalent.

What about efficiency of the warmer against water?
Heating water to a temperature that is adequate for warming your onahole takes much more energy than heating it with the warmer. The warmer, because its duty is to provide heat, is almost 100% efficient in converting all that energy to heat. Water isn't as efficient, as there will always be steam, runoff water and wastewater.

Can the warmer melt the onahole?
Yes, but under certain conditions, which, to the watchful eye, are hopefully never reached.

How long should I put the warmer in?
Do regular checks by putting your lips on the warmer and by testing the warmth of the onahole by inserting your finger with the warmer pulled out. If it's warm enough for you, go and have fun.
This is dependent on your variables, mainly being power output.

Which heating method is better?
Subject to preference.

X happened! Why did that happen?
If you can provide the exact conditions as to how it happened, then we can find the source of the problem. Most of the time, it's ignorance or neglect.

It takes forever to heat up the hole with the warmer! What do I do?
Amp it up, literally.




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08. Reading Material


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elastomer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosetting_polymer
http://www.epotek.com/site/files/Techtips/pdfs/tip23.pdf
http://www.chm.davidson.edu/vce/Calorimetry/HeatCapacity.html
http://www.ugrad.math.ubc.ca/coursedoc/math100/notes/diffeqs/cool.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/thevenin.html
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/young-modulus-d_417.html
http://www.cscscientific.com/csc-cientific-blog/bid/52996/How-Does-Surface-Tension-Relate-to-Viscosity
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joule_heating
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prostate_massage
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opinion




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09. tl;dr


Warmers aren't dangerous. They're just as dangerous as water.

Don't be a lazy ass and monitor your holes.

Yes, you can use wall chargers and powerbanks for the warmer, the amperage is up to you.

Larger amperage leads to higher wattage, faster warm time and higher temperature steady state.

Polymers don't melt in our usual operating temperatures, but may be susceptible to deformation due to their Tg. I'm sure companies already think about warming and operating temperatures when they design stuff.

The difference in cost and efficiency between water and warmer is minimal enough to be ignored.
	US 12c per kWh=.000003333 cents per Watt in Jan 2015
	http://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.cfm?t=epmt_5_6_a
	Add water cost and the water method is slightly more expensive.

Warmers can be a useful tool in a controlled environment, and serves as a dry alternative to heating with water. If done right, they are an effective way of heating the tunnel.






Stop sperging over the differences.