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  1. /CRT/ : A guide (attempt) for finding and choosing your video monitor
  2.  
  3. - What is this text :
  4.  
  5. An attempt at helping people choosing a monitor model/brand, or if they should pick a monitor they stumbled on in an ad or a shop.
  6. It's focused on monitors accepting at least 15khz signals AKA 240p/480i/SD(Standard Definition), so this excludes most modern PC CRTs.
  7.  
  8. - What is a video monitor
  9.  
  10. Generally speaking, a video (CRT) monitor is a monitor used in video or broadcast production, or for presentation or signalization purposes in expos, museums, airports and such.
  11. They don't have a tuner so they can't directly receive TV.
  12. Most use BNC connectors, but some have floppydisk-like connectors or DB-15/25.
  13. They usually very limited audio (mono, small speaker...). Bigger model can have an audio amp and/or integrated or detachable speakers.
  14. Compared to TVs, they often have higher quality tubes, electronics, and have easy access to a wider array of image adjustments.
  15. They have no image enhancement so they don't induce latency (AKA display lag).
  16. Tubes often have higher TV Lines count (TVL) than TV, leading to a sharper image and stronger "scanline" effect.
  17. Most have multiple input types (composite, S-Video, RGBS, YpBpR...), some have expansion slots for more inputs.
  18. Most are multistandard (NTSC, PAL, sometimes SECAM) on their composite and svideo inputs, some need an appropriate expansion card to decode certain signals.
  19. Some are multiformat or multisync, meaning they can accept higher resolutions like 480p, VGA, or even higher.
  20. The form factor is usually cubic as they were made to be stacked or rack-mounted. Some have handles.
  21.  
  22. - Why use a video monitor instead of a regular TV
  23.  
  24. In North America and most of the world, the main incentive is access to RGB. Many retro consoles work internaly and output in RGB so this is the most direct signal you can get.
  25.  
  26. In Europe, there are many TVs with a SCART input that will accept RGB signals. So the main reasons are sharper image, professional looks or multiformat ability.
  27.  
  28. -Types of monitors
  29.  
  30. Video monitors
  31.  
  32. These were used in video studios, small tv companies, medical facilities or security rooms. The biggest ones (25" to 29") might have been used as presentation.
  33. They're commonly refered as PVM but this is a Sony brand name.
  34. Common sizes go from 6" to 29" (though a rare 40" PVM behemoth exists).
  35. They usualy have mid to high TVL count (about 450-600 range) depending on model and size.
  36. Many (but not all) accept RGBS, some only go up to S-video and some are composite only. Many also accept component (AKA YPbPr, YCbCr, YUV) on the same inputs. Some accept Sync-on-green in either RGB or component.
  37. Some are multiformat.
  38. Most auto-terminate their outputs.
  39.  
  40. Broadcast monitors
  41.  
  42. Mostly used in tv production and broadcast.
  43. Commonly refered as BVM, but again, this is a Sony brand.
  44. Most found sizes go from 8" to 29". There are some widecreen monitors from 26" to 32".
  45. They have high to very high TVL count (600-1000 range).
  46. They have more image adjustments than video monitors.
  47. They're heavier than video monitors.
  48. Most accept RGB, component and composite in stock form, however many don't accept S-video, or many need the appropriate expansion card to do so.
  49. Some are multiformat.
  50. Many need to have 75 terminators on their outputs. If not, the image will be overbright.
  51.  
  52. Presentation monitors
  53.  
  54. Used in expos, museums, display walls...
  55. Usually on the big size range, 29" to 39". Because of this, they're extremely heavy.
  56. They don't use TVL measurements, but are probably in the mid to high range.
  57. They have a fairly wide range of inputs, most can do composite, s-video, RGB. Some have a VGA (HD15) connector for an easy connection to a computer (or a Dreamcast).
  58. Many are multiformat.
  59.  
  60. -The brands
  61.  
  62. Sony / Olympus
  63.  
  64. The most found brand in video monitors. Olympus are just rebranded Sony models.
  65. Known as PVM (Professional Video Monitor), SSM (Security System Monitor), BVM (Broadcast Video Monitor).
  66. PVMs/SSMs have non-upgradeable inputs, BVMs have upgrade cards (usually not needed for RGB/component).
  67. Have that typical Sony aperture grille phosphor pattern.
  68. BVM are much heavier than PVMs/SSMs.
  69. Some SSMs are black & white, so beware.
  70.  
  71. JVC / Panasonic
  72.  
  73. Decently common brands. Same models under different brands, in fact their expansion cards are interchangeable.
  74. Some models have fixed inputs, some have expansion slots. High end models have no stock inputs so they need an expansion card.
  75. RGB/Component cards are rare and expensive so beware if you find a naked monitor.
  76. SD monitors use shadow mask, multiformat use aperture grille (I think ?).
  77. SD monitors are fairly simple inside and thus lighter than a size equivalent PVM/BVM (Can't say about other models).
  78. SD models have video monitor stats, while multiformat models look closer to broadcast specs.
  79.  
  80. Ikegami
  81.  
  82. Video monitors, fairly rare.
  83. Said to be of high quality.
  84. Use shadow mask.
  85. SD only ?
  86.  
  87. Mitsubishi
  88.  
  89. Presentation monitors.
  90. Rare and very sought after, so usually expensive, without even accounting for shipping.
  91. Multiple inputs, standards, formats... basically : "One monitor to rule them all".
  92. No VGA input, but a DB25 connector that accepts VGA and above signals.
  93. Use shadow mask.
  94.  
  95. NEC
  96.  
  97. Presentation monitors.
  98. Also rare and sought after, also expensive.
  99. Another case of "One monitor to rule them all". Most (all ?) have a VGA input.
  100. Use shadow mask AFAIK.
  101.  
  102. -Is this monitor for me ?
  103.  
  104. It boils down to your use, and money too.
  105. "I want a small crt for shit and giggles", you can found some 8", ideal to put on a desk. They're still cheap.
  106. "I want something for my bedroom", the 14"-17" range allow sitting a bit farther while still compact. Prices are on the rise unfortunately.
  107. "Something to do multiplayer on, or for a living room", 20"-25", the most wanted range, so price are getting on the crazy side.
  108. "The biggest, baddest thing around, for a dedicated room", 27" and beyond, just be ready to pay alot, if you can find one.
  109. "A light enough one to move around", SD JVCs are definitively on the lighter side and have convenient side handles.
  110. "Something better than composite", the jump to s-video is a huge quality upgrade, so don't turn down an s-video only monitor, especially if it's your entry ticket into monitors.
  111.  
  112. -What to search for
  113.  
  114. Many do the mistake of only searching "PVM" or "BVM" on craiglist or the local equivalent. Try a bit more varied terms like "video monitor", "jvc monitor", you get the idea.
  115. Also try a google search, adding a region restriction, ie you're in germany, add a "site:de". You might run into an ad on a lesser known adsite, or directly on the site of a video studio that is selling its stuff.
  116.  
  117. -What to look out for
  118.  
  119. So you've found a monitor near you (you shouldn't try to get a crt shipped) :
  120. Make sure that inputs available match what you will be using, there's little to no point on getting a monitor to only use it with composite (except if all you do is NES).
  121. Bring something to test, a console, a dvd player... Remember that most of the time you'll need to adapt to BNC. If you're gonna use composite or s-video, remember to use a device that outputs the right signal or you might get a black & white image (might be enough though).
  122. Once you have something displayed, check for tube markings. Check if the image "pumps" on dark/bright changes.
  123. Check the tube itself, look out for scratches and dents.
  124. General state, case scratches are probably unavoidable, but as long as the monitor isn't held togheter with duct tape you should be fine.
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