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Dress and Fashion (Islamic Studies)

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  1. Introduction
  2.  
  3. The subject of dress is concerned with what people do with their bodies and what they wear in order to provide information about themselves. Dress is affected by a number of factors, including age, gender, social and economic condition, matrimonial status, occupation, religion, color and object symbolism, iconography and art history, as well as communications, transportation, and economics at local, national, and international levels. Dress is used by people to differentiate between groups who belong and those who do not, and within a particular group it is used to indicate the social hierarchy. These, plus many more factors, play a role in the concept of dress and identity. Despite the importance of dress, there are comparatively few books and articles about Islamic dress and fashion, in comparison to, for example, the fields of illustrated manuscripts, carpets, or theological studies. There is also a natural tendency to link together textiles and dress, but while closely related, they should not be regarded as synonymous. Studies about Islamic dress and fashion tend to be dominated by several specific subjects, namely, tiraz textiles from the medieval period, the art historical role of (woven) textiles, gold and silver jewelry, and modern-day (female) hijab (or Islamically correct) clothing. The latter is usually interpreted as “veils and veiling,” but in fact it covers a much wider range of garments. For the last few decades or so, other subjects have been receiving more attention: for instance, the wide variety of regional dress within the Islamic world, the role of Jewish producers for the Muslim and Christian markets within the Islamic world, the concept of male hijab, and the future role of fashion designers in presenting an Islamic fashion scene. Certain subjects have been deliberately excluded from this bibliography, namely, the textiles and dress of Muslim groups outside of central and southwest Asia and North Africa. This was a deliberate choice based on geography rather than cultural or religious backgrounds. In addition, it was decided to concentrate on Muslim groups, rather than, for example, Christian, Jewish, or Zoroastrians.
  4.  
  5. General Overviews
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  7. There are a number of general books and studies about the production of textiles and their use as clothing in the Islamic world. These are based on a mixture of both medieval and later accounts. These publications include Dozy 1845, Lombard 1978, Serjeant 1972, and Stillman 2000. Anthropologically oriented studies are Lindisfarne-Tapper and Ingham 1997, while Ross 1994; Scarce 1987; Stillman, et al. 1986; and Vogelsang-Eastwood 2010 present more general and contemporary descriptions. What became clear while producing this list is that much more work needs to be carried out in the field of Islamic dress and fashion in order to make it into a coherent and comprehensive area of research.
  8.  
  9. Dozy, Reinhart P. A. Dictionnaire détaillé des noms des vêtements chez Arabes. Amsterdam: Jean Müller, 1845.
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  11. Reprinted in 1969. This is a standard, albeit antiquated source of information, which includes 275 entries on a range of Arab garments. As there are no illustrations, it is often difficult to be sure exactly to which garment Dozy is referring. Extra lemmata were added in his postclassical Arabic dictionary, Supplément aux dictionnaires arabes (two volumes, 1881 and later editions).
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  13.  
  14. Lindisfarne-Tapper, Nancy, and Bruce Ingham, eds. Languages of Dress in the Middle East. London: School of Oriental and African Studies, 1997.
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  16. A deceptive title as this collection of papers includes articles about Maltese and Caucasian (Abkhazia and Georgia) dress. Nevertheless, there are some useful articles with respect to Southwest Asian dress, such as those by Yamani about the changing dress in the Hejaz (pp. 55–66) and Chatty’s article on the burqa from Oman and southeastern Arabia (pp. 127–148). The illustrations are not always helpful.
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  18.  
  19. Lombard, Maurice. Les textiles dans le monde musulman Viie–XIIe siècle. Paris-La Haye: Mouton Éditeur, 1978.
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  21. A detailed study of the production and trade in textiles in and around the Mediterranean. The study looks at the raw materials, production techniques, centers of production, and uses.
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  23.  
  24. Ross, Heather Colyer. The Art of Arabian Costume: A Saudi Arabian Profile. 4th ed. Montreux, Switzerland: Arabesque Commercial SA, 1994.
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  26. Includes information about Saudi Arabian, Gulf, and Yemeni dress, with a few details about Omani costume. The author’s knowledge of Saudi Arabian dress in general is impressive, although the lack of references makes the work confusing at some points. The book is illustrated throughout, and the author’s background as an interior designer comes across in many of the “arty” shots and drawings.
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  28.  
  29. Scarce, Jennifer. Women’s Costume of the Near and Middle East. London and Sydney: Unwin Hyman, 1987.
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  31. A useful source of information about women’s dress from the early Islamic period until the end of the 19th century. The emphasis is on Ottoman dress for women and how it affected dress throughout the medieval and later Islamic world. Subjects covered include dress from within the Ottoman Empire, including Istanbul, central Asia, south-east Europe, and the Arab world, as well as adjoining lands (Persia and Afghanistan).
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  33.  
  34. Serjeant, R. B. Islamic Textiles: Material for a History up to the Mongol Conquest. Beirut: Librairie du Liban, 1972.
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  36. Based on a series of articles published in Ars Islamica (1942–1951, Volumes 9–16). Although the title implies that all Islamic textiles are described, there is an emphasis on tiraz, namely, textiles with inscriptions. Nevertheless, a wide range of textiles, garments, soft furnishings, and related items are described. There are also chapters on sea-wool, dyers, furs, and Indian and Chinese influences.
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  38.  
  39. Stillman, Yadida. Arab Dress: A Short History from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 2000.
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  41. An extensive study of the role of dress in early Islamic history. It concentrates on pre-Islamic and early Islamic dress within the Arab world using mainly contemporary written sources. As a result, much of book deals with Maghreb, Egyptian, Syrian, and Iraqi textiles and dress, with comparatively little about dress from, for example, the Arabian Peninsula.
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  43.  
  44. Stillman, Yadida. “Libas.” In Encyclopaedia of Islam. Vol. 5. Edited by Clifford E. Bosworth, 732–752. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 1986.
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  46. A general survey of dress, which is divided into Islamic dress from pre-Islamic times to the 21st century, dress in the Muslim West, Iranian dress, and Turkish dress. This article is a comprehensive study with an extensive glossary and bibliography. It relies heavily on written sources rather than field research.
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  48.  
  49. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian, ed. Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5, Central and Southwest Asia. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
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  51. The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion is a ten-volume series about dress and fashion. Volume 5 deals specifically with central and southwest Asia. The subjects included in this volume include Turkish dress (Anatolian and Ottoman), Israeli (orthodox Jewish and secular) dress, eastern Mediterranean Arab dress (Druze, Lebanese, Palestinian, and Syrian), Iraqi dress, Arabian Peninsula dress as well as dress from Persia, Afghanistan, and the central Asian republics.
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  53.  
  54. Dress Laws and Codes
  55.  
  56. There are various forms of dress laws and codes throughout the Islamic world. Some of these can be traced back to pre-Islamic times. As discussed by Schick 2010 and others, the basic idea of dress codes tends to be fourfold. First, there are codes in the forms of customs and traditions (both written and unwritten) that indicate and to a certain extent control what people should or should not wear. Second, there are laws and codes that force people to wear a new range of garments or to prevent them from wearing particular forms, such as the dress codes implemented in the early 20th century in Turkey, Iran, and Afghanistan, to make people (Muslims and non-Muslims) wear Western-style clothing rather than “traditional” dress forms. This situation is discussed by Chehabi 2004. Third, there are dress codes and laws intended to make it easy to differentiate between one group and another. These so-called laws of differentiation tend to deal with the range of garments, headgear, footwear, and accessories that Jewish and Christian subjects within the Islamic world are allowed (or not allowed) to wear. These items are intended to make it clear that the wearer is a Muslim or a dhimmi (meaning “People of the Book,” referring to Christians, Jews, and Zoroastrians). This form is discussed by Lichtenstadter 1943, Quataert 1997, and Tritton 1930. The fourth group consists of laws that are intended to prevent extravagance clothing. These sumptuary laws are different from the laws of differentiation because most applied to Muslims and non-Muslims alike. These laws are intended to prevent men and women from wearing overly expensive clothing and no longer showing modesty in their appearance. Some modern authors (e.g., Schick 2007–2009, Stillman 2000) discuss various aspects of the above.
  57.  
  58. Chehabi, Houchang. “Dress Codes for Men in Turkey and Iran.” In Men of Order: Authoritarian Modernization under Atatürk and Reza Shah. Edited by Touraj Atabaki and Erik J. Zürcher, 209–237. London and New York: I. B. Tauris, 2004.
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  60. The early 20th century saw a dramatic change in the way men dressed throughout the Islamic world. Western garments were forcefully adopted in Turkey, Iran, and Afghanistan. As discussed by the author, these dress codes were a reflection of a dramatic change in the political and social structure of these countries.
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  62.  
  63. Lichtenstadter, Ilse. “The Distinctive Dress of Non-Muslims in Islamic Countries.” Historia Judaica 5.1 (1943): 35–52.
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  65. In order to understand what is acceptable for a Muslim person to wear in public, it is essential to look at the dress worn by non-Muslims. This article introduces some of the various types of dress codes that specifically affected various Jewish communities.
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  67.  
  68. Quataert, Donald. “Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720–1829.” International Journal of Middle East Studies 29 (1997): 403–425.
  69. DOI: 10.1017/S0020743800064837Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  70. Discussion of a range of dress codes in the Ottoman Empire and how these affected both the state in general and various groups in particular.
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  72.  
  73. Schick, İrvin Cemil. “Some Islamic Determinants of Dress in Southwest Asia.” Khil’a 3 (2007–2009): 25–44.
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  75. Detailed discussion of various aspects of Islamic rules and codes concerning dress. Strong emphasis on dress codes in the Ottoman Empire, and in Istanbul in particular.
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  77.  
  78. Schick, Irvin Cemil. “Fitrah: Temporary and Permanent Body Modifications for Muslims.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 403–411. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
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  80. A general introduction to sunan al-fitrah, traditions about what may and may not be done to the human body (to modify its naturally good condition, fitrah) by a Muslim. The article covers items such as tattoos and scarification, among others.
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  82.  
  83. Stillman, Yadida. Arab Dress: A Short History from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 2000.
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  85. Extensive study of the role of dress within early Islamic history. It includes sections on the subject of khilʾa, tiraz, as well as the laws of differentiation and various sumptuary codes.
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  87.  
  88. Tritton, Arthur Stanley. The Caliphs and Their Non-Muslim Subjects: A Critical Study of the Covenant of ʿUmar. London: Oxford University Press, 1930.
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  90. The Covenant or Pact of ʿUmar is regarded as one of the first written codes in the Islamic world to make a distinction between Muslims and non-Muslims. This book discusses the social, political, and religious background to the various issues covered by the covenant.
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  92.  
  93. Khilʾa
  94.  
  95. As discussed by Gordon 2001, khilʾa or “robe of honor” is the general term given to an item of clothing, a complete outfit or even an outfit and all the accessories (including a horse on occasions), which was given by someone in authority to someone of a lesser rank. Such garments were normally given by men to men, but occasionally women-to-women gifts are recorded. As indicated by Gordon 2003 and Stillman 2000, the use of khilʾa can be traced back for hundreds of years throughout the Islamic world and beyond (Skilliter 1965).
  96.  
  97. Gordon, Stewart, ed. Robes and Honor: The Medieval World of Investiture. New York: Palgrave, 2001.
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  99. The concept of khilʾa is used to show the public adoption of a high-value textile as symbol of office (“robes of office”), and to establish a personal link between the giver (high status) and the receiver (lower status). The study raises issues concerning hierarchy and the concept of kingship and how these relate to dress.
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  101.  
  102. Gordon, Stewart, ed. Robes of Honour: Khilʾat in Pre-Colonial and Colonial India. New Delhi: Oxford University Press, 2003.
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  104. A sequel to Gordon 2001. This study contains a series of articles on the role of khilʾa in India and provides a useful “compare and contrast” for its role in central and southwest Asia. The Indian articles cover subjects such as the gifts given by the Mughal emperors, how the British used khilʾa in their empire building, and legends about poison khilʾats in India.
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  106.  
  107. Skilliter, S. A. “Three Letters from the Ottoman ‘Sultana’ Safiye to Queen Elizabeth.” In Documents from Islamic Chanceries. Edited by Samuel M. Stern, 119–159. Oxford: Bruno Cassier, 1965.
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  109. An interesting example of an Ottoman Sultan sending garments to Queen Elizabeth I of England. This is one of the few documented examples of khilʾa being sent to a northern European monarch by an Ottoman royal.
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  111.  
  112. Stillman, Yadida. Arab Dress: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 2000.
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  114. A detailed study of the role of dress within early Islamic history, which includes a section on the role of khilʾa in the medieval Islamic world.
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  116.  
  117. Tiraz
  118.  
  119. The Persian term tiraz originally refers to embroidery and was often used to describe an Islamic textile with an embroidered inscription. Later the term was applied to any textile with an inscription: appliqué, embroidered, printed, painted, or woven, as well as the atelier where the textiles were made. Some authors also use the term to include items in wood, glass, and stone, with inscriptions. There are numerous books and articles on this subject. Serjeant 1972, for example, is regarded as a basic source of information about the history and range of tiraz in the medieval world. Fluck and Helmecke 2006 and Salīm 1997 are compilations of articles covering many different aspects of tiraz. In contrast, Golombek and Gervers 1977 and Kühnel and Bellinger 1952 are about specific groups of tiraz in the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, and the Textile Museum, Washington, DC, respectively.
  120.  
  121. Fluck, Cecilia, and Gisela Helmecke. Textile Messages: Inscribed Fabrics from Roman to Abbasid Egypt. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 2006.
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  123. A compilation of articles that looks at various aspects of Egyptian textiles with woven, embroidered, or painted inscriptions as part of their decoration. The majority of the articles concentrate on some aspect of tiraz textiles with inscriptions in Arabic that reflect an Islamic context, but there are a significant number that look at textiles with a Christian background.
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  125.  
  126. Golombek, Lisa, and Veronika Gervers. “Tiraz Fabrics in the Royal Ontario Museum.” In Studies in Textile History. Edited by Veronika Gervers, 82–125. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977.
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  128. A detailed account and description of the tiraz fabrics in the collection of the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada. These medieval pieces have been placed in their historical and social contexts.
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  130.  
  131. Kühnel, Ernst, and Louise Bellinger. Catalogue of Dated Tiraz Fabrics. Washington, DC: Textile Museum, 1952.
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  133. A standard work on the subject of tiraz textiles and their dating. The data in this work form the bedrock for many later studies about tiraz. All of the textiles illustrated come from the Textile Museum, Washington, DC.
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  135.  
  136. Salīm, Muḥammad ʻAbbās Muḥammad. Islamische Textilkunst des Mittelalters: Aktuelle Probleme. Riggisberger Berichte 5. Riggisberg, Switzerland: Abegg-Stiftung, 1997.
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  138. One of the most useful collections of articles about a range of subjects relating to tiraz. The papers are divided into three sections. The first provides background information about the Fatimid era and the production and use of textiles in this period. The second section deals with various inscriptions and their meanings on textiles and other objects. The third section discusses questions concerning weaving techniques and the identification of various types of textile weaves.
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  140.  
  141. Serjeant, R. B. Islamic Textiles: Material for a History up to the Mongol Conquest. Beirut: Librairie du Liban, 1972.
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  143. Although the title implies that all Islamic textiles are described, there is an emphasis on tiraz. The book needs updating but remains an essential tool for anyone working on the subject of tiraz.
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  145.  
  146. Ihram
  147.  
  148. Once a year up to 2 million people descend on the Holy City of Mecca, in Saudi Arabia, as part of the hajj or annual pilgrimage. Peters 1994 describes the background of the hajj and how it became one of the most important moments in the life of a Muslim. Snouck Hurgronje 1889 describes life in Mecca and the role of the hajj in the late 19th century with details about the garments (ihram) worn prior to and during the hajj. Vogelsang-Eastwood 2005 gives a general account of the role of dress and the various forms of ihram worn at the end of the 20th century.
  149.  
  150. Peters, Francis E. The Hajj. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994.
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  152. A general introduction to the history and role of the hajj. There are numerous details concerning ihram, the various forms of ihram, and so forth. This is an essential book for placing the hajj in its wider context.
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  154.  
  155. Snouck Hurgronje, C. Mekka. Vol. 2, Aus dem heutigen Leben. The Hague: Nijhoff, 1889.
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  157. A book written by the Dutch Arabist Snouck Hurgronje about his stay in Mecca in the 1880s. The associated atlas contains many contemporary photographs of pilgrims in ihram from all around the Islamic world.
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  159.  
  160. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. Gekleed in ihram: Hajj kleding voor de pelgrimstocht naar Mekka. 2005.
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  162. (Dressed in ihram: Clothing for the hajj pilgrimage to Mecca). A general article about the role of ihram, the various types, its history, the way ihram is worn by men and women, etc.
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  164.  
  165. Accessories
  166.  
  167. Accessories are an important part of both men and women’s lives but for different reasons. According to the Hadiths, men must not wear items that are regarded as luxurious, such as silk or gold, so many men have decorative and expensive accessories, such as weapons (notably swords and daggers) and animal trappings (especially horse and camel trappings). In contrast, women are expected to dress well, and this idea includes accessories such as jewelry and makeup. Both men and women are also expected to present a well-cared-for personal appearance that does not cause offense to others.
  168.  
  169. Jewelry
  170.  
  171. As discussed by Brosh 1991, al-Jadir 1981, and Jenkins 1988, jewelry plays an important role in the lives of women throughout the Islamic world. It is a source of ornamentation as well as a marker of social and economic status. Hasson 1987a and Hasson 1987b show how the range of techniques used to make jewelry has changed over both time and place. A related theme, namely, the role of the silver coin, the Maria Theresa Thaler, is described by Semple 2005. Hawley 1978 covers the jewelry, daggers, and other items of silver produced in Oman, while Ross 1978 and Topham, et al. 1981 concentrate on the range of silver jewelry and accessories used in Saudi Arabia.
  172.  
  173. Brosh, Naʾama, ed. Jewelry and Goldsmithing in the Islamic World. Papers presented at an international symposium held at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem in 1987. Jerusalem: Israel Museum, 1991.
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  175. Essays discuss a range of subjects, including archaeological and modern jewelry forms, techniques, the role of goldsmiths and silversmiths, and the various types of jewelry to be found in the Islamic world.
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  177.  
  178. Hasson, Rachel. Early Islamic Jewellery. Jerusalem: L. A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art, 1987a.
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  180. A standard book on the forms and variations in early Islamic jewelry from southwest Asia. Includes details about techniques, social background, regional variations, and basic information about the various forms of jewelry worn.
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  182.  
  183. Hasson, Rachel. Later Islamic Jewellery. Jerusalem: L. A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art, 1987b.
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  185. A sequel to Hasson 1987a, and as its name suggests, concentrates on later forms of Islamic jewelry.
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  187.  
  188. Hawley, Ruth. Omani Silver. London and New York: Constable, 1978.
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  190. A short but interesting book on the subject of silver in Oman. This book does not deal exclusively with jewelry but does contain useful information about forms and techniques that have influenced Omani jewelry, as well as details about essential male accessories, such as daggers, sheaths, and belts.
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  192.  
  193. al-Jadir, Saad. Arab and Islamic Silver. London: Stacey International, 1981.
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  195. A general introduction to the subject of silver work in the Islamic world, with many examples of jewelry. The book is fully illustrated and a good place to begin for anyone interested in this subject.
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  197.  
  198. Jenkins, Marilyn. “Fatimid Jewelry, Its Subtypes and Influences.” Ars Orientalis 18 (1988): 39–57.
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  200. A detailed discussion of the range of jewelry found in a hoard in Tunisia, dated between 1003 and 1045, as based on related coin evidence. The jewelry consists of bracelets, earrings, beads, and triangular-shaped elements. The article puts these items in their social and historical context.
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  202.  
  203. Ross, Heather C. Bedouin Jewellery in Saudi Arabia. London: Stacey International, 1978.
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  205. A meandering book that looks at styles and influences on silver Bedouin jewelry, as well as the various techniques used to make actual examples. A useful book as a starting point for studying Bedouin jewelry, but its historical side should be treated with a degree of caution.
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  207.  
  208. Semple, Clara. A Silver Legend: The Story of the Maria Theresa Thaler. Manchester, NH: Barzan, 2005.
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  210. A well-illustrated book detailing the intriguing history of the Maria Theresa Thaler (MTT). The MTT is a silver coin that has had a profound impact on the Middle East in general. The book explores many different aspects of its production, economic and political history, as well as its use in the Middle East for jewelry.
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  212.  
  213. Topham, John, Anthony N. Landreau, and William E. Mulligan. Traditional Crafts of Saudi Arabia. London: Stacey International, 1981.
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  215. An exhibition catalogue that should have been twice the size. It is filled with useful details and information about a wide range of crafts from Saudi Arabia, including basketry, ceramics, leatherwork, metalwork, textiles, woodwork, as well as clothing and jewelry. An excellent starting point for anyone interested in Bedouin jewelry or traditional Saudi material culture in general.
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  217.  
  218. Weapons
  219.  
  220. While jewelry is an important marker of a woman’s personal and family status, weaponry plays a similar role for men. Bashir 2008 discusses the role of weaponry for the male elite (the “knights”), while Elgood 1994 and North 1985 look at the weaponry used for other social groups. Tirri 2004 concentrates on weaponry throughout the Islamic world rather than in central and southwest Asia. The latter is discussed by Vogelsang 2010.
  221.  
  222. Bashir, Mohamed, ed. The Arts of the Muslim Knight: The Furusiyya Art Foundation Collection. Milan: Skira Editore, 2008.
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  224. A beautifully illustrated book on the subject of the Muslim knight, his world and equipment. Bashir includes a wide range of items from the Arab, Persian, and Indian worlds.
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  226.  
  227. Elgood, Robert. The Arms and Armour of Arabia in the 18th–19th and 20th Centuries. Aldershot, UK: Scolar Press, 1994.
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  229. A useful book on the subject of Arab arms and armor, as well as related items from Persia and India. Elgood gives a wide range of details about weapons, including swords, daggers, spears, clubs, as well as handguns and rifles.
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  231.  
  232. North, Anthony. An Introduction to Islamic Arms. Gilsum, NH: Stemmer House, 1985.
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  234. A good introduction to the study of weapons and accessories in the Islamic world. It refers to axes, daggers, maces, staffs, swords, as well as firearms. Part of the Victoria and Albert Museum’s Introduction to the Decorative Arts series.
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  236.  
  237. Tirri, Anthony. Islamic Weapons: Maghrib to Moghul. Macon, GA: Indigo, 2004.
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  239. Weapons have always been a vitally important aspect of dress and identity in the Islamic world. It is not only essential for defense of the owner, his family, and his community but also serves as a status symbol. This book is a comprehensive survey of weapons and accessories used in Islamic countries from the 17th until the 19th century, from Morocco to Indonesia. Well illustrated with a glossary and bibliography.
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  241.  
  242. Vogelsang, Willem. “Weapons and Accessories.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 419–424. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
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  244. General introduction to the range of weapons worn as accessories by Muslim men in various parts of central Asia, Afghanistan, India, and the Arabian Peninsula.
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  246.  
  247. Presentation of Self
  248.  
  249. The presentation of self, or one’s general appearance especially in public, is an important aspect of Islamic and Muslim life. It is expected that a person (male or female) should be clean and modest in appearance and behavior (World of Islam: Beauty and Ross 1994). An untidy or dirty appearance may be taken as a symptom of disease or distress. Various forms of natural dyestuffs have been used in the Islamic world, not only for coloring textiles and garments but also for the human body. As noted by Balfour-Paul 1997 and Rooijakkers 2010, indigo (Indigofera genus) is perhaps the most important and widely used dyestuff. It is used by some groups to whiten the skin in order to make it more beautiful, or to show their family’s wealth. It is also used as an under-dye for coloring the head hair of both men and women. As noted by Vogelsang-Eastwood 2010, red henna (Lawsonia inermis) is also used by men and women to dye their hair. Many Muslim men color their beards with henna as a sign that they have been on the annual pilgrimage or hajj to Mecca.
  250.  
  251. Azad, Ifrat. World of Islam: Beauty.
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  253. Article that explores Islamic concepts of beauty. It also explains why it is wrong for a Muslim woman to wear perfume in public.
  254. Find this resource:
  255.  
  256. Balfour-Paul, Jenny. Indigo in the Arab World. Richmond, UK: Curzon, 1997.
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  258. An invaluable book on the subject of indigo and the most thorough study of its use in the Arab world. Balfour-Jones looks at archaeological as well as modern evidence for the production and use of indigo in countries as far apart as Oman and Morocco.
  259. Find this resource:
  260.  
  261. Rooijakkers, Tineke. “Snapshot: Indigo.” In Berg Encyclopaedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 413. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  262. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  263. A brief description of the nature and role of indigo, with specific reference to the Arab world.
  264. Find this resource:
  265.  
  266. Ross, Heather Colyer. The Art of Arabian Costume: A Saudi Arabian Profile. 4th ed. Montreux, Switzerland: Arabesque Commercial SA, 1994.
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  268. The “Body Ornament” chapter addresses beauty, concepts of beauty, the use of henna, make-up, dental hygiene, hairdressing, and aromatics.
  269. Find this resource:
  270.  
  271. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. “Snapshot: Henna.” In Berg Encyclopaedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 411–412. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  272. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  273. A brief description of the nature and uses of henna in the Arab world.
  274. Find this resource:
  275.  
  276. Pre-Islamic Dress
  277.  
  278. There are many books and articles on the subject of pre-Islamic, and particularly Coptic, textiles and dress, so the following items are listed in order to provide a starting point for anyone interested in 1st millennium CE dress from the eastern Mediterranean. Pfister 1934 presents information about the textiles found at the Syrian site of Palmyra, which includes Roman, Sassanian, and Chinese textiles, including details about the production, appearance, and trade in textiles in the early centuries of the 1st millennium CE. Baginski and Tidhar 1980 provides a general description of Egyptian textiles from the 1st millennium CE. In contrast, Pritchard 2006 and Montembault 2000 concentrate on specific aspects, notably clothing and footwear, respectively.
  279.  
  280. Baginski, Alisa, and Amalia Tidhar. Textiles from Egypt, 4th–13th Centuries C.E. Jerusalem: L. A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art, 1980.
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  282. A detailed discussion of late Roman, Byzantine, and early medieval Islamic textiles from Egypt. There are many books on Coptic textiles, but this edition provides a good starting point for an in-depth study.
  283. Find this resource:
  284.  
  285. Montembault, Véronique. Catalogue des Chaussures de l’Antiquité Égyptienne. Paris: Réunion des Musées Nationaux, 2000.
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  287. Although footwear is an important aspect of dress, few museums or authors pay much attention to the subject. This is a detailed study of how different styles of shoes and sandals were made, decorated, and used. Although described as ancient Egyptian footwear, the items discussed range in date from the Pharaonic to the medieval Islamic period.
  288. Find this resource:
  289.  
  290. Pfister, R. Textiles de Palmyre. Paris: Les Éditions d’Art et d’Histoire, 1934.
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  292. A three-volume series concerning the excavations at the ancient site of Palmyra, Syria, and the textiles and garments found there. An essential starting point for understanding the production of textiles, the range of local and imported textiles, and how they were used in the early half of the 1st millennium CE. The other monographs in this series include Nouveaux Textiles de Palmyre (1937) and Textiles de Palmyre III (1940).
  293. Find this resource:
  294.  
  295. Pritchard, Francis. Clothing Culture: Dress in Egypt in the First Millennium AD. Manchester, NH: Whitworth Art Gallery, 2006.
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  297. This is an in-depth study of the Whitworth Art Gallery collection of clothing from post-Pharaonic Egypt. Many of the garments were excavated between 1888 and 1923. The book traces the shape and cut of garments, notably tunics, cloaks, and headwear from the late 3rd to the 10th centuries CE. A very useful source of reliable information.
  298. Find this resource:
  299.  
  300. Early Islamic Dress
  301.  
  302. There are various books and articles about medieval Islamic textiles, especially those of the Fatimid and Mamluk periods. In particular, the subject of tiraz is well represented. There are various general studies that place textiles and dress into their historical context, such as Crowfoot 1977, Goitien 1967–1988, Lombard 1978, Mayer 1952, Serjeant 1972, and Stillman 2000. Allsen 1997 discusses one particular type of textile (nasij), which was traded along the so-called Silk Road and could be found from central Asia to Europe. However, there is very little detailed information available about the dress from this period and women’s dress in particular (see, for example, al-Raziq 1973, Stillman 1986, and Stillman 2000).
  303.  
  304. Allsen, Thomas T. Commodity and Exchange in the Mongol Empire: A Cultural History of Islamic Textiles. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 1997.
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  306. Although the title indicates that this is a cultural history of Islamic textiles, the author concentrates on one type of cloth, nasij, which was made from gold and silk. This type of cloth was regarded as a Mongolian product and imported throughout the Islamic and Christian world in the medieval period.
  307. Find this resource:
  308.  
  309. Crowfoot, Elisabeth. “The Clothing of a Fourteenth-Century Nubian Bishop.” In Studies in Textile History. Edited by Veronika Gervers, 43–51. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977.
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  311. A detailed account of the 14th-century burial and associated garments of Bishop Timotheos of Ibrim, from the southern Egyptian site of Qasr Ibrim. The body was wrapped in daily garments rather than the vestments normally associated with the interment of a bishop. These garments give an insight into the range and cut of clothing of this period.
  312. Find this resource:
  313.  
  314. Goitien, S. D. A Mediterranean Society: The Jewish Communities of the Arab World as Portrayed in the Documents of the Cairo Geniza. 5 vols. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1967–1988.
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  316. A standard work about Jewish society in the medieval Arab world, with particular attention to the eastern Mediterranean. The books contain much information about textiles and dress in general.
  317. Find this resource:
  318.  
  319. Lombard, Maurice. Les textiles dans le monde musulman Viie–XIIe siècle. Paris-La Haye: Mouton Éditeur, 1978.
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  321. A detailed study of the production and trade in textiles in and around the Mediterranean. The study looks at the raw materials, production techniques, centers of production, and uses.
  322. Find this resource:
  323.  
  324. Mayer, L. A. Mamluk Costume. Geneva, Switzerland: Albert Kundig, 1952.
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  326. Considered to be a standard book on Mamluk period dress from Egypt and Syria. However, while it contains useful information, it needs to be updated with the inclusion of the many textile and garment finds from excavations in Egypt from the 1960s onward.
  327. Find this resource:
  328.  
  329. al-Raziq, Ahmad ʿAbd. La femme au temps des Mamelouks en Egypte. Cairo: Institute Français, 1973.
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  331. A general study about the role of women in Mamluk Egypt with information about contemporary dress and accessories. Its dress section relies heavily on Mayer 1952.
  332. Find this resource:
  333.  
  334. Serjeant, R. B. Islamic Textiles: Material for a History up to the Mongol Conquest. Beirut: Librairie du Liban, 1972.
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  336. Based on a series of articles published in Ars Islamica (1942–1951, Volumes 9–16). The author includes a wide range of textiles, soft-furnishings, garments, and related items. There are also chapters on specific subjects such as dyers, furs, and Indian and Chinese influences. An essential tool for anyone working with medieval Islamic textiles.
  337. Find this resource:
  338.  
  339. Stillman, Yadida. “Libas.” In Encyclopaedia of Islam. Vol. 5. Edited by Clifford E. Bosworth, 732–752. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 1986.
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  341. A general survey of Islamic and Arab dress, with a short section on pre-Islamic times, written by Yadida Stillman. This article formed the basis for the chapter on pre-Islamic dress in Stillman 2000.
  342. Find this resource:
  343.  
  344. Stillman, Yadida. Arab Dress: A Short History from the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 2000.
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  346. An extensive study of the role of dress in early Islamic history. It concentrates on pre-Islamic and early Islamic dress in the Arab world using mainly contemporary written sources. It provides a valuable starting point for anyone interested in this subject.
  347. Find this resource:
  348.  
  349. Early Ottoman Dress
  350.  
  351. For more than four hundred years the Ottomans, based in Istanbul, played an important role in the lives of millions of people. As noted by Faroqhi and Neumann 2004, this influence could be felt throughout the vast Ottoman Empire, which stretched from the Maghreb in North Africa, across southeastern Europe, southwestern Asia, and parts of the western Arabian Peninsula, as well as neighboring countries. As a result, various garments (such as the kaftan) and forms of decoration (for example, applied cords and braids and certain types of gold thread embroidery) can be found in countries such as Morocco, Egypt, Syria, and the western parts of what is now Saudi Arabia. Baker, et al. 1996 describes the range of (male) garments used in the Topkapi Palace, while Baker, et al. 1990 concentrates on a range of garments placed on royal male graves. The range of garments worn in contemporary Egypt is described by Lane 1978. Brouwer 2005 lists the range of textiles and garments transported from the Islamic world to Europe by Dutch traders.
  352.  
  353. Baker, Patricia, Jennifer Wearden, and Ann French. “Memento Mori: Ottoman Children’s Kaftans in the Victoria & Albert Museum.” Hali 51 (May 1990): 130–140.
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  355. Useful article about the use of (male) children’s clothing as memento mori on Ottoman tombs. There is a particular reference in this article to the range of garments worn by Ottoman princes in the 16th century and beyond.
  356. Find this resource:
  357.  
  358. Baker, Patricia, Hülya Tezcan, and Jennifer Wearden. Silks for the Sultan: Ottoman Imperial Garments from Topkapi Palace. Istanbul: Ertug & Kocabiyik, 1996.
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  360. Lavishly illustrated book with a selection of silk textiles and garments woven and made for members of the Ottoman imperial family. Examples of kaftans made for both ceremonial and daily use in the Topkapi Palace.
  361. Find this resource:
  362.  
  363. Brouwer, C. G. “‘White, Silk, Striped Commerbands with Silver Heads’: Textiles in the Tollhouse of Seventeenth-Century Al-Mukha, Listed by Dutch Traders.” Khil’a 1 (2005): 15–68.
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  365. A detailed account of the range of textiles and garments that were carried by Dutch traders working for the VOC (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie, the Dutch equivalent of the British East India Company) in the first half of the 17th century.
  366. Find this resource:
  367.  
  368. Faroqhi, Suraiya, and Christopher K. Neumann, eds. Ottoman Costumes: From Textile to Identity. Istanbul: EREN, 2004.
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  370. Essays that look at many different aspects of Ottoman dress, from the making of the textiles to how garments were worn. Useful essays about the influence of Ottoman styles on different groups, including Europeans from the medieval period to the present day.
  371. Find this resource:
  372.  
  373. Lane, Edward W. Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians. London: East-West, 1978.
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  375. Edward Lane lived in Cairo during the 1830s and made a very detailed study of many aspects of Cairene life. Includes a chapter “Personal Characteristics and Dress of the Muslim Egyptians” as well as details about tattooing, jewelry, etc. A must for anyone working in the field of 19th-century Egyptian/Arab life. Originally printed in 1836 (London: Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge). Expanded version published in 1895.
  376. Find this resource:
  377.  
  378. Modern Islamic Dress and Fashion
  379.  
  380. The late 20th century has seen vast changes in what is and is not regarded as acceptable to wear in modern Islamic countries. The role of rapid communication and transportation, and the vast wealth created by the exploitation of oil and shifting textile technology (not to mention the shift from local textile production to vast importation of textiles and clothing from countries such as China) have all had a significant role to play. In addition, politics, wars, and the concept of “global terrorism” have polarized many groups. The fall of the Soviet Union and the creation of “new” countries in Central Asia have further added to the complexity of the situation. All of these movements, changes, and divisions are reflected in what people, especially women, can and cannot wear in private and in public. One significant difference between even the early 20th century and the early 21st century is that the discussions, which can be very heated at times, are being carried out not only in central and southwest Asia, but also in America, Australia, and Europe. Hijab, or Islamically correct dress, primarily refers to modesty in dress and behavior. A Muslim should cover up his or her “private” parts, namely, the area from the navel to the knees and prevent the form of the body from being the center of attention. Most writers and lawmakers, being male, have concentrated on hijab for women. The Qurʾanic section Sura 24, verse 30 onward, is often used to describe women, clothing, and modesty—the basis for hijab. This section, however, begins with describing men’s clothing and behavior and then continues with women’s dress. No difference is made between the two. The term hijab is often used by both Arab and Western authors to mean “Islamically correct clothing” in general. Nevertheless, some authors prefer to use the term libas islamiyya when referring to generic Islamic dress and hijab to specifically refer to upper-body covering for a female. The fluidity of the terminology is a source of irritation for some scholars.
  381.  
  382. Female Hijab
  383.  
  384. Women’s clothing, notably veils and veiling, are some of the most widely published topics in the field of Islamic dress and fashion. There are many books and articles on this subject, and as a result, selecting the potentially most useful publications is difficult. In addition, most authors concentrate on theoretical issues as to why women wear (or do not wear) hijab and/or veils, rather than what these items actually are (see Abu-Lughod 1986, Abu-Lughod 1998, Hijab, el-Guindi 1999, Heath 2008, McDonald 1992, Northrop 2004, and Tarlo 2009). Some scholars may regard these items as falling within the realm of gender studies. However, the reasons behind why these garments are worn are an important element of Islamic dress for women and all the regional variations. To regard this solely as a gender studies issue is to diminish an important aspect of the history of women’s dress in general. Vogelsang-Eastwood and Vogelsang 2008 provides an introduction to the face veils both currently and historically worn in the Middle East.
  385.  
  386. Abu-Lughod, Lila. Veiled Sentiments: Honor and Poetry in a Bedouin Society. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1986.
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  388. A standard work on the subject of women and veiling. The author reports on fieldwork conducted while living with a Bedouin family in western Egypt. Her discussion of the role of dress in a woman’s daily life, and the combination of veiling and poetry as a reflection of life in general, is of particular interest.
  389. Find this resource:
  390.  
  391. Abu-Lughod, Lila, ed. Remaking Women: Feminism and Modernity in the Middle East. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1998.
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  393. A series of essays on the role of women in southwest Asia in the 19th and 20th centuries. Throughout these articles the subject of clothing, dress, and Islamic dress (hijab) are discussed. Useful book for putting various issues into their social and historical contexts.
  394. Find this resource:
  395.  
  396. el-Guindi, Fadwa. Veil: Modesty, Privacy and Resistance. Oxford: Berg, 1999.
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  398. Regarded as a standard work on the subject of veils and veiling. It contains a considerable amount of useful and thought-provoking information.
  399. Find this resource:
  400.  
  401. Heath, Jennifer, ed. The Veil: Women Writers on Its History, Lore and Politics. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2008.
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  403. Includes twenty-one essays about many different aspects of historical and modern veiling. It includes Christian, Jewish, and Islamic examples, which put various elements into their cultural and historical contexts. Many of these articles are written from a personal point of view, such as Satrapi’s article “Persepolis,” which adds another dimension to the collection.
  404. Find this resource:
  405.  
  406. Hijab.
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  408. A useful introduction to the subject of hijab, its various types, and sources of information.
  409. Find this resource:
  410.  
  411. McDonald, Arlene E. Accommodating Protest: Working Women, the New Veiling, and Changes in Cairo. Cairo: American University Press, 1992.
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  413. Discussion as to how women from various social classes in Cairo in the late 20th century have dealt with the introduction of hijab into their daily lives. In particular, it looks at how women working outside the home use and regard hijab.
  414. Find this resource:
  415.  
  416. Northrop, Douglas. Veiled Empire: Gender and Power in Stalinist Central Asia. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 2004.
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  418. A detailed discussion of the role of women in central Asia and, in particular, Uzbekistan. Attention focuses on the advent of the Communists in the 1920s, the fall of the Soviet system in the 1990s, and how the role of women in society was used by various groups to abolish veiling and later to reintroduce it.
  419. Find this resource:
  420.  
  421. Tarlo, Emma. Visibly Muslim: Fashion, Politics, Faith. Oxford: Berg, 2009.
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  423. Discusses the way Muslim women in Britain wear veils of various forms. The author looks at veiling from a variety of viewpoints such as fashion, hijab, politics, as well as the relationship between veiling, culture, and religion.
  424. Find this resource:
  425.  
  426. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian, and Willem Vogelsang. Covering the Moon: An Introduction to Middle Eastern Face Veils. Louvain, Belgium: Peeters, 2008.
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  428. One of the few works on the subject of veils and veiling that looks at the face veil itself, rather than discussing the question of why women wear them. It includes pre-Islamic evidence for face veiling in the Hellenistic world, early and medieval Islamic forms, as well as a wide range of modern face veils from within the Islamic world (Morocco to central Asia).
  429. Find this resource:
  430.  
  431. Male Hijab
  432.  
  433. Most books and articles about hijab concentrate on female hijab, but there are a few articles on the Internet that specifically refer to male hijab (such as Muslim Men and an Islamic Identity, Hijab for Men, Male Hijab According to Auran and Sunnah, and Definition of Hijab for Muslim Men). There would seem to be a growing awareness that male hijab is as important to a Muslim man’s way of life as it is for a woman’s. Of course, this situation may change in the future.
  434.  
  435. Benlafquih, Christine. Muslim Men and an Islamic Identity.
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  437. Explains in general terms the nature of male hijab.
  438. Find this resource:
  439.  
  440. Turn to Islam. Male Hijab According to Quran and Sunnah.
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  442. Explains what men should wear based on quotations from the Qurʾan and Hadiths.
  443. Find this resource:
  444.  
  445. Whitiker, Brion. Hijab for Men.
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  447. A general article about the range of clothing worn by various groups of more conservative Muslim men.
  448. Find this resource:
  449.  
  450. Zain, Maria. Definition of Hijab for Muslim Men.
  451. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  452. Explains in general terms what men should wear and why.
  453. Find this resource:
  454.  
  455. Fashion Designers and Islam
  456.  
  457. This section is not about fashion designers who happen to be Muslim, such as Hussein Chalayan or Rifta Özbek. Instead, it concentrates on a number of fashion designers in the Islamic world who are combining Islamic principles, hijab, and traditional clothing to create new looks. The items selected have deliberately been chosen from the Internet to show current developments. Informative resources on designers providing fashionable hijab garments include the websites for Elenany, Hijab Style, and Rabia-Z; Kossaibati 2009; and Khalil 2010. At the Hijab Style site, information on appropriate dress for Muslim women is also available, including DoBuy: Fabric-of-Faith. There are many more sites offering similar information, but the abbreviated list here gives an impression of some of the current trends.
  458.  
  459. Amal Murad.
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  461. A general article about the UAE fashion designer Amal Murad.
  462. Find this resource:
  463.  
  464. DoBuy: Fabric-of-Faith.
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  466. A general introduction in a video by Soniya Kirpalani. Covers various forms of fashion regarded as suitable for women who veil themselves completely when in public.
  467. Find this resource:
  468.  
  469. Elenany.
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  471. Homepage of the fashion designer Elenany, which produces hijab and fashionable garments for Muslim men and women.
  472. Find this resource:
  473.  
  474. Hijab Style.
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  476. A general site that looks at hijab styles throughout the Islamic world, including Indonesia.
  477. Find this resource:
  478.  
  479. Khalil, Shaimaa. Muslim Designers Mix the Hijab with Latest Fashions. BBC News, 24 May 2010.
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  481. About the role of modern Muslim fashion designers who are creating a line of modest clothing suitable for women.
  482. Find this resource:
  483.  
  484. Kossaibati, Jana. Hijab Style. Vogue, 8 April 2009.
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  486. A general article about the first-ever all-Arab fashion event staged at the InterContinental Hotel in Park Lane, London, in 2009. The fact that this article appeared in Vogue is an indication of the growing cultural and economic importance of hijab and Muslim designers in the Western fashion market.
  487. Find this resource:
  488.  
  489. Marcus, Caroline. Ex-Surfer Chick Covers Up in Style. Sydney Morning Herald, 24 May 2009.
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  491. About Australian fashion designer Kath Fry, who converted to Islam and is now producing a range of modesty garments suitable for women.
  492. Find this resource:
  493.  
  494. Rabia-Z.
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  496. Site for Rabia Z, a modern yet conservative fashion designer based in Dubai.
  497. Find this resource:
  498.  
  499. Regional Dress
  500.  
  501. The following list of books and articles concentrates on the dress worn by the main Muslim groups in central and southwest Asia and North Africa. It includes studies of various nomadic, village, as well as urban groups. Regional dress associated with non-Muslim minority groups such as Christians, Jews, and Zoroastrians has not been included here, nor has the dress associated with Muslim groups in Sudan or sub-Saharan Africa. The books and articles noted here are intended to constitute an introduction to the subject of dress from these regions, rather than an in-depth study of particular aspects, such as the range of textiles used to make clothing, changing dress regulations, and rules regulating the length of beards among the Taliban. At present there are three main surveys of dress from central and southwest Asia and the Maghreb. Two of these can be found under the entry “Libas” in the Encyclopaedia of Islam (Stillman 1986), and in the Encyclopædia Iranica under Clothing. The third survey appears in Eicher 2010.
  502.  
  503. Clothing. In Encyclopaedia Iranica. Edited by Ehsan Yar-Shater.
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  505. This lemma deals with historical and modern dress in the Persian/Iranian sphere of influence, and includes Kurdish and Afghan dress, as well as Persian/Iranian dress from pre-Islamic times to the late 20th century.
  506. Find this resource:
  507.  
  508. Eicher, Joanne B. The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. 10 vols. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010.
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  510. Includes two volumes that are relevant to the study of regional Islamic dress. Volume 1, Africa, includes articles on Maghreb and Egyptian regional and urban dress. Volume 5 includes various articles on regional and urban dress from the eastern Mediterranean, Syria, Arabian Peninsula, Iranian Plateau, and the central Asian states. Both volumes provide a good starting point for the study and exploration of Islamic dress and fashion.
  511. Find this resource:
  512.  
  513. Stillman, Yadida. “Libas.” In Encyclopaedia of Islam. Vol. 5. Edited by Clifford E. Bosworth, 732–752. Leiden, The Netherlands: E. J. Brill, 1986.
  514. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  515. Deals with various aspects of historical and modern versions of dress in the Islamic/Arab world from pre-Islamic times to the late 20th century. There is an emphasis on Maghrebi dress.
  516. Find this resource:
  517.  
  518. Maghrebi Dress
  519.  
  520. The term “Maghreb” is often used to describe a geographical area consisting of much of North Africa. Generally, it includes Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and Libya. Most of the information currently available about dress in the Maghreb relates either to Moroccan Arab and/or Berber dress and Jewish dress from the region. Besancenot 1990, for example, explores both Arab and Berber dress in Morocco. Rabaté and Sorber 2007 discusses Berber dress in particular. Rabaté and Rabaté 1996 and Rabaté and Goldenberg 1999 describe a wide range of traditional Berber jewelry from Morocco. In contrast, there is a general lack of information about dress and textiles from Algeria (a major exception is Marçais 1930) and Libya and not much more information about Tunisian dress (but see Golvin 1949). Wace 1935 provides some information about the use of embroidery in 18th- and 19th-century Algerian dress.
  521.  
  522. Besancenot, Jean. Costumes of Morocco. London and New York: Kegan Paul International, 1990.
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  524. A beautifully illustrated book about Arab and Berber dress for men and women from Morocco in the 20th century. Detailed information is provided in the main text. An invaluable book for anyone working in the field of Moroccan or Maghrebi dress. Original published as Costumes du Maroc (Aix-en-Provence, France: Édisud, 1988).
  525. Find this resource:
  526.  
  527. Golvin, Lucien. Les Tissages Décorés D’El-Djem et de Djebeniana. Tunis: Imprimerie Basgone & Muscat, 1949.
  528. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  529. Studies the range of woven textiles produced in two regions of Tunisia, but it also includes many details about contemporary women’s dress.
  530. Find this resource:
  531.  
  532. Marçais, Georges. Le Costume Mussulman d’Algers. Paris: Librairie Plon, 1930.
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  534. A standard work on the subject of dress, covering the period up until the first half of the 20th century. There is considerable information concerning 17th-century and later dress forms, references, etc. Good starting point for anyone wanting to understand Algerian and Berber dress.
  535. Find this resource:
  536.  
  537. Rabaté, Jacques, and Marie-Rose Rabaté. Bijoux du Maroc: Du Haut Atlas à la vallée du Draa. Aix-le-Provence, France: Édisud, 1996.
  538. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  539. A well-illustrated and detailed study of the jewelry worn by Berber women in the High Atlas region of Morocco.
  540. Find this resource:
  541.  
  542. Rabaté, Marie-Rose, and André Goldenberg. Bijoux du Maroc: Du Haut Atlas à la Méditerranée; Depuis le temps des juifs jusqu’à la fin du XXe siècle. Aix-le-Provence, France: Édisud, 1999.
  543. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  544. A well-illustrated and documented study of the jewelry worn by Arab and Berber women in the 19th and 20th centuries in Morocco. It includes both silver and gold items. This is a companion volume to Rabaté and Rabaté 1996.
  545. Find this resource:
  546.  
  547. Rabaté, Marie-Rose, and Frieda Sorber. Berber Costumes of Morocco. Paris: Art Creation Realisation, 2007.
  548. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  549. Fully illustrated book that discusses Berber costumes, mainly for women, from Morocco. The authors look at woven, embroidered forms, as well as how the garments are worn and the necessary accessories. Standard book for anyone interested in Moroccan or Berber dress.
  550. Find this resource:
  551.  
  552. Wace, Alain. Catalogue of Algerian Embroideries. London: Board of Education, 1935.
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  554. Small catalogue of some textiles in the Victoria and Albert Museum, with a general introduction to the subject of 18th- and 19th-century Algerian embroidery. There is some information about curtains and embroidered elements of Algerian dress. This is an extended version of the museum’s catalogue initially produced in 1915.
  555. Find this resource:
  556.  
  557. Ottoman Empire and Anatolian Dress
  558.  
  559. Ottoman dress is generally regarded as not only that worn in Istanbul and by Ottoman officials and their families in the Ottoman Empire but also the various variations adopted in the provinces. Hamdy and de Launay 1873 presents a series of photographs that illustrate the range of garments worn throughout the Ottoman Empire toward the end of the 19th century. Many of the female garments they noted are described in Scarce 1987 and Tuglaci 1978. Jirousek 2000 looks at the transition from regional to mass-produced dress within Turkish Ottoman society. A similar theme can be found in Micklewright 1987. Krody 2000 presents the range of embroidery used in the Ottoman Empire to decorate dress and household textiles. Rogers, et al. 1986 looks at the decoration and use of textiles, including for items of dress, based on garments housed in the Topaki Palace collection. In contrast, Erden 1998 and Scarce 2010 present information about “Anatolian dress,” namely, the range of clothing and accessories to be found in provinces and regions throughout the peninsula.
  560.  
  561. Erden, Attila. Anatolian Garment Culture/Anadolu Giysi Kültürü. Ankara, Turkey: Ministry of Culture, 1998.
  562. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  563. Fully illustrated English and Turkish text describing the cultural significance of daily and ceremonial clothing of people living in 20th-century Turkey, including urban, regional, Turkmen, and Kurdish dress.
  564. Find this resource:
  565.  
  566. Hamdy Bey, Osman, and Marie de Launay. Les Costumes Populaires de la Turquie en 1873. Istanbul: Ouvrage Publiée sous le Patronat de la Commission Imperiale Ottomane pour L’Exposition Universelle de Vienne, 1873.
  567. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  568. Useful series of photographs depicting costumes worn throughout the Ottoman Empire. Care has to be taken because the photographs were made in a studio and every so often the same model was used to depict garments from different regions. It was also a propaganda exercise to show the cultural diversity of the Ottoman Empire. Nevertheless, a good starting point for anyone interested in the Ottoman Empire and its styles of dress.
  569. Find this resource:
  570.  
  571. Jirousek, Charlotte. “The Transition to Mass Fashion System Dress.” In Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire, 1550–1922: An Introduction. Edited by Donald Quataert, 201–242. Albany: State University of New York Press, 2000.
  572. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  573. A detailed article looking at how Ottoman dress moved from locally produced garments reflecting local fashions to the mass production and appropriation of Western fashion styles.
  574. Find this resource:
  575.  
  576. Krody, Sumru Belger. Flowers of Silk & Gold: Four Centuries of Ottoman Embroidery. Washington, DC: Textile Museum, 2000.
  577. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  578. An accompanying book to an exhibition. Detailed information about Ottoman embroidery and how it was used in general and for dress in particular.
  579. Find this resource:
  580.  
  581. Micklewright, Nancy. “Tracing the Transformation in Women’s Dress in Nineteenth-Century Istanbul.” Dress: The Annual Journal of the Costume Society of America 13 (1987): 33–42.
  582. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  583. A detailed article looking at urban women’s dress in Istanbul during the 19th century. It is based on Micklewright’s PhD thesis published as Women’s Dress in Nineteenth-Century Istanbul: Mirror of a Changing Society (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania, 1986).
  584. Find this resource:
  585.  
  586. Rogers, J. Michael, Hülye Tezcan, and Selma Delibas. Topkapi: Costumes, Embroideries and Other Textiles. London: Thames & Hudson, 1986.
  587. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  588. An invaluable work on the garments from the Topkapi Museum. Tezcan was the curator of the collection and has an in-depth knowledge of the items. This volume was translated from Turkish and expanded by Michael Rogers, one of the foremost specialists in Ottoman and Islamic art.
  589. Find this resource:
  590.  
  591. Scarce, Jennifer. Women’s Costume of the Near and Middle East. London: Unwin Hyman, 1987.
  592. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  593. A useful introduction to the subject of urban women’s dress from the early Islamic period until the end of the 19th century. The book looks at Ottoman dress for women and how this influenced dress throughout the medieval and later Islamic world, including its influence on Arabs and Persians.
  594. Find this resource:
  595.  
  596. Scarce, Jennifer. “Regional Dress in Anatolia.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 150–156. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  597. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  598. A general introduction to the subject of regional dress in Anatolia. The emphasis is on female dress.
  599. Find this resource:
  600.  
  601. Tuglaci, Pars. Women of Istanbul in Ottoman Times. Istanbul: Linguafon Enstituru, 1978.
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  603. English and Turkish text. Useful introduction to the history of the women of Istanbul using primary sources and period illustrations. Considerable information about women’s urban dress of various social levels and groups.
  604. Find this resource:
  605.  
  606. Egyptian, Eastern Mediterranean, and Syrian Dress
  607.  
  608. The best resources on regional and urban dress in Egypt are Rugh 1986 and Macleod 1991. Details about regional dress in Syria can be found in Kalter, et al. 1992. There are numerous items about Palestinian dress; the most useful being Vogelsang-Eastwood 2010; Rajab 1989; Stillman 1979; Vögler, et al. 1987; and Weir 1989. Specific information about Arab male dress can be found in Vogelsang-Eastwood 2010.
  609.  
  610. Kalter, Johannes, Margareta Pavaloi, and Maria Zerrnickel. The Arts and Crafts of Syria. London: Thames & Hudson, 1992.
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  612. The most widely available and useful book on Syrian material culture. It includes various articles directly relevant to the study of Syrian textiles and dress, namely “Syrian Folk Jewellery” (pp. 79–102), “The Costume of the Nomads” (pp. 158–162), “Wearing Clothes” (pp. 161–172), “Textile Techniques” (pp. 172–190), “Making Arab Clothes” (pp. 191–201), “Obtaining and Processing the Raw Materials” (pp. 202–210), and “Textile Stories” (pp. 211–231).
  613. Find this resource:
  614.  
  615. Macleod, Arlene E. Accommodating Protest: Working Women, the New Veiling, and Changes in Cairo. New York: Columbia University Press, 1991.
  616. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  617. Discussion of women from various social classes who worked outside of the home in Cairo in the late 20th century. In particular, attention is focused on the introduction and adoption of hijab into the daily lives of various groups of working women.
  618. Find this resource:
  619.  
  620. Rajab, Jehan. Palestinian Costume. London: Kegan Paul, 1989.
  621. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  622. A curious little book based on the Rajab collection in Kuwait. It contains some useful information and photographs. A starting point for anyone interested in the subject of Palestinian dress.
  623. Find this resource:
  624.  
  625. Rugh, Andrea B. Reveal and Conceal: Dress in Contemporary Egypt. Cairo: American University Press, 1986.
  626. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  627. A review of the range of Bedouin, rural, and urban dress in Egypt in the 1980s. It is a good starting point for anyone researching Egyptian dress, but it is frustrating sometimes because of its lack of sufficient detail. This is a “whet-the-appetite” book, so to speak.
  628. Find this resource:
  629.  
  630. Stillman, Yedida. Palestinian Costume and Jewellery. Santa Fe: University of New Mexico, 1979.
  631. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  632. An exhibition catalogue for a display held at the Museum of International Folk Art, Santa Fe, in 1976. Information about the Santa Fe collection, the role of dress among Palestinians, as well as specific details about embroidery, dress types and provenances, and jewelry. Contains a good glossary and bibliography.
  633. Find this resource:
  634.  
  635. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian, ed. Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  636. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  637. There are three articles by Widad Kawar and Sibba Einarsdóttor in the Berg Encyclopedia that provide basic information relating to men’s clothing (pp. 170–172), Palestinian women’s dress (pp. 173–182), and Jordanian women’s dress (pp. 197–202).
  638. Find this resource:
  639.  
  640. Vögler, Gisela, Karin V. Welck, and Katharina Hackstein, eds. Pracht und Geheimnis: Kleidung und Schmuck aus Palästina und Jordanien. Cologne, Germany: Rauntenstrauch-Joest-Museum der Stadt Köln, 1987.
  641. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  642. An exhibition catalogue based on garments and accessories in the Widad Kawar collection, Jordan. The exhibition contains a series of articles providing some background information. The catalogue itself is very useful to anyone working within the field of eastern Mediterranean dress. Well illustrated.
  643. Find this resource:
  644.  
  645. Weir, Shelagh. Palestinian Costume. London: British Museum, 1989.
  646. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  647. A standard book for anyone working in the field of Palestinian costume and embroidery. Covers a range of subjects including materials and merchants, men’s clothing, women’s clothing and jewelry, as well as a more detailed study of the changing role of fashion in Beit Dajan. Well illustrated with historical and modern photographs. Extensive bibliography, glossary, and index.
  648. Find this resource:
  649.  
  650. Arabian Peninsula Dress
  651.  
  652. Dress is an important aspect of the social and economic life of people throughout the Arabian Peninsula. The dress forms are normally divided into Bedouin dress, Gulf dress, Omani dress, Saudi Arabian dress, and Yemeni dress.
  653.  
  654. Bedouin Dress
  655.  
  656. There are few detailed studies concerning Bedouin material culture and more specifically their dress. Two classic accounts are Musil 1928 and Dickson 1949.
  657.  
  658. Dickson, H. R. P. The Arab of the Desert: A Glimpse into Badawin Life in Kuwait and Sau’di Arabia. London: Allen and Unwin, 1949.
  659. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  660. Classic account of life in the eastern Arabian Desert. There is a chapter on men and women’s dress, including tattoos, which provides basic and useful information.
  661. Find this resource:
  662.  
  663. Musil, Alois. The Manners and Customs of the Rwala Bedouins. New York: American Geographic Society, 1928.
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  665. Detailed description of the daily life of the Rwala Bedouins. There is useful information about dress for both men and women. A good starting point for anyone working with Bedouin life, including dress, and how it changed over the 20th century.
  666. Find this resource:
  667.  
  668. Gulf Dress
  669.  
  670. Although Gulf dress is referred to in a number of articles and books, there is very little specific information available. Ferdinand 1993 discusses the items of dress found among the Bedouin of Qatar, while El-Guindi and al-Othman 2010 describes modern urban dress in the Gulf region.
  671.  
  672. Ferdinand, Klaus. Bedouin of Qatar. New York: Thames & Hudson, 1993.
  673. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  674. Detailed account of the expedition to Qatar led by Klaus Ferdinand. There are chapters on men and women’s clothing, as well as a detailed catalogue of objects that provides further information. A valuable tool for anyone working on Bedouin or Gulf culture.
  675. Find this resource:
  676.  
  677. El-Guindi, Fadwa, and Wesam al-Othman. “Dress from the Gulf States: Bahrain, Kuwait, Qatar, United Arab Emirates.” In Berg Encyclopaedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 247–251. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  678. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  679. Gives general information about dress for men and women in the Gulf region. The article also contains details about hijab for women.
  680. Find this resource:
  681.  
  682. Omani Dress
  683.  
  684. Al-Zadjali 2010 discusses in general terms men and women’s regional dress styles in Oman. Richardson and Dorr 2005 provides some general details concerning dress, as well as more specific information about accessories, notably silver jewelry and daggers.
  685.  
  686. Richardson, Neil, and Marcia Dorr. The Craft Heritage of Oman. Dubai, United Arab Emirates: Motivate Publishing, 2005.
  687. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  688. A two-volume study of crafts in Oman. There are useful chapters on textiles, leatherwork, jewelry, etc. Specific details about Omani dress are missing. Nevertheless, the quantity and quality of the illustrations make these volumes well worth looking at.
  689. Find this resource:
  690.  
  691. al-Zadjali, Julia. “Omani Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 238–244. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  692. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  693. A general introduction to the various styles of regional dress for men and women in Oman.
  694. Find this resource:
  695.  
  696. Saudi Arabian Dress
  697.  
  698. Saudi Arabia has a wide variety of regional dress styles, especially for women. These styles are discussed in US Committee for Saudi Arabian Cultural Heritage 1987; Ross 1994; Topham, et al. 1981; and Vogelsang-Eastwood 2010. More specific details about a single group in western Saudi Arabia can be found in Katakura 1977.
  699.  
  700. Katakura, M. Bedouin Village: A Study of a Saudi Arabian People in Transition. Tokyo: Tokyo University Press, 1977.
  701. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  702. An interesting study about a village in the western coastal region of Saudi Arabia. Contains a chapter with information about men’s and, especially, women’s clothing in the village, how it is worn, its variations, etc.
  703. Find this resource:
  704.  
  705. Ross, Heather Colyer. The Art of Arabian Costume: A Saudi Arabian Profile. 4th ed. Montreux, Switzerland: Arabesque Commercial SA, 1994.
  706. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  707. A useful book on dress from the Arabian Peninsula in the 20th century, with an emphasis on Saudi Arabian clothing. The deliberate use of Western models in the illustrations gives the book the feel of a fashion magazine.
  708. Find this resource:
  709.  
  710. Topham, John, Anthony N. Landreau, William E. Mulligan. Traditional Crafts of Saudi Arabia. London: Stacey International, 1981.
  711. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  712. A useful book about the Bedouin material culture of Saudi Arabia. It has sections on men and women’s clothing, jewelry, and weapons, as well as leatherwork and textiles. Well illustrated, with a glossary of Arabic terminology, bibliography, and index.
  713. Find this resource:
  714.  
  715. US Committee for Saudi Arabian Cultural Heritage. Palms and Pomegranates: Traditional Dress of Saudi Arabia. Washington, DC: Textile Museum, 1987.
  716. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  717. Pamphlet to a 1987 exhibition that was held at the Textile Museum. A starting point for anyone specifically interested in Saudi Arabian clothing.
  718. Find this resource:
  719.  
  720. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian. “Saudi Arabian Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 223–230. Oxford, Berg, 2010.
  721. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  722. A general introduction to the various forms of regional dress found in Saudi Arabia.
  723. Find this resource:
  724.  
  725. Yemeni Dress
  726.  
  727. Yemen has a wide variety of regional styles of dress for both men and women. These styles are discussed in general by Maurièries, et al. 2003. More specific details about clothing in Sanaʾa and northern Yemen can be found in Makhlouf 1979 and Mundi 1983.
  728.  
  729. Makhlouf, Carla. Changing Veils: Women and Modernisation in North Yemen. London: Croom Helm, 1979.
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  731. An interesting study on how modernization in the form of transportation and modern communication (television) changed the lives of many urban women in North Yemen. Particular attention is paid to the subject of dress.
  732. Find this resource:
  733.  
  734. Maurières, Arnaud, Phillippe Chambon, and Eric Ossart. Reines de Saba. Aix-en-Provence, France: Édisud, 2003.
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  736. A beautifully illustrated book that accompanied an exhibition about Yemeni dress. The majority of the pieces are in a private collection in France. The authors have spent considerable time in Yemen and other Arab countries and are familiar with the countries and cultures. It is more of a coffee-table book than a detailed study, but it is worth reading nevertheless.
  737. Find this resource:
  738.  
  739. Mundi, Martha. “San’a Dress 1920–1975.” In Sana: An Arabian Islamic City. Edited by R. B. Serjeant and Ronald Lewcock, 529–540. London: World of Islam Festival Trust, 1983.
  740. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  741. Detailed information about urban dress in Sanaʾa, the capital of Yemen, in the 1970s and early 1980s. A good starting point for anyone interested in the subject of Yemeni dress.
  742. Find this resource:
  743.  
  744. Iraqi and Kurdish Dress
  745.  
  746. There are very few articles specifically on Iraqi or Kurdish dress. Two recent items are al-Khamis and Hami 2010 and Pip 2010.
  747.  
  748. al-Khamis, Ulrike, and Saad Lafta Hami. “Iraqi Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 262–274. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  749. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  750. An introductory article to Iraqi dress that describes the main urban and regional groups and the range of men and women’s dress associated with them.
  751. Find this resource:
  752.  
  753. Pip, Layla Yousif. “Kurdish Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 275–281. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  754. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  755. An introductory article to Kurdish dress, with an emphasis on Iraqi Kurdish dress. Complimentary work on Kurdish dress in Turkey and Iran still needs to be carried out.
  756. Find this resource:
  757.  
  758. Iranian Dress
  759.  
  760. Iran has a long history of dress and dress studies, with a clear distinction between urban and regional dress. In the Encyclopaedia Iranica, Clothing provides a general introduction to the subject. Studies that relate to historic urban dress include Bier 1987, Pope 1938–1939, Scarce 1987, and Vogelsang-Eastwood and Barjesteh 2002. General information about regional dress studies can be found in Abbot Hall Gallery 1971, Allgrove 1976, and Tapper and Thompson 2002. Specific details about dress relating to the religious festival of Muharram are discussed by Seyed-Ghorab 2010.
  761.  
  762. Abbott Hall Gallery. The Turcoman of Iran. Kendal, UK: Abbott Hall Gallery, 1971.
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  764. An exhibition catalogue containing details about Turkmen life, with references to men and women’s clothing, as well as jewelry.
  765. Find this resource:
  766.  
  767. Allgrove, Joan. The Qashqa’i of Iran. Manchester, NH: Whitworth Art Gallery, 1976.
  768. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  769. An exhibition catalogue with many details about Qashqaʾi dress from Iran.
  770. Find this resource:
  771.  
  772. Bier, Carol, ed. Woven from the Soul, Spun from the Heart: Textile Arts of Safavid and Qajar Iran. Washington, DC: Textile Museum, 1987.
  773. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  774. An exhibition catalogue that contains a series of essays by well-known figures in the field of Persian textiles and dress. Among the relevant articles for Persian dress are “Vesture and Dress” (Jennifer Scarce), “Visual and Written Sources”’(Layla Diba), as well as numerous items of dress in the object catalogue itself. Offers a good bibliography.
  775. Find this resource:
  776.  
  777. Clothing. In Encyclopaedia Iranica. Edited by Ehsan Yar-Shater.
  778. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  779. A general survey of pre-Islamic and Islamic dress in the Iranian world, including Kurdish and Afghan dress. A basic work for anyone interested in the field.
  780. Find this resource:
  781.  
  782. Pope, Arthur, ed. A Survey of Persian Art from Prehistoric Times to the Present. 2 vols. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1938–1939.
  783. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  784. Although a starting point for studying textiles and dress in the Iranian world from the pre-Islamic periods onward, this is somewhat out of date.
  785. Find this resource:
  786.  
  787. Scarce, Jennifer. Women’s Costume of the Near and Middle East. London: Unwin Hyman, 1987.
  788. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  789. A useful introduction to the subject of Ottoman urban women’s dress from the early Islamic period until the end of the 19th century. Includes a chapter on Persian dress.
  790. Find this resource:
  791.  
  792. Seyed-Ghorab, Ashgar. “Muharram and Dress.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 444–445. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  793. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  794. A detailed discussion of the role of dress during the Shiʾite holy days of Muharram.
  795. Find this resource:
  796.  
  797. Tapper, Richard, and Jon Thompson. The Nomadic Peoples of Iran. London: Azimuth Editions, 2002.
  798. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  799. An invaluable work introducing the main nomadic groups of Iran, including the Bakhtiari, Kurds, Qashqaʾi, Shahsavan, and Baluch. Fully illustrated with numerous color photographs. There are many details about clothing and dress included in the various essays. However, Persian terms for clothing are used throughout, which can be confusing for someone wishing to know more details about a specific group.
  800. Find this resource:
  801.  
  802. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian, and Leo Ferydoun Barjesteh. An Introduction to Qajar Era Dress. Rotterdam, The Netherlands: Barjesteh van Waalwijk van Doorn, 2002.
  803. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  804. Booklet written for a 2002 Qajar conference about Qajar-period clothing and accessories for men and women. The garments illustrated are from both the National Museum of Ethnology and Textile Research Centre, Leiden, The Netherlands.
  805. Find this resource:
  806.  
  807. Central Asian Dress
  808.  
  809. For thousands of years central Asia has played an important role in the production and movement of textiles and dress (see Barnes 2005, Harvey 1997, and Hessenhuis Museum 1997). There are various ethnic groups, each with their own distinctive dress, including the Kazakh (see Dzhanibekov 1996), the Kyrghyz (see Klavdiya, et al. 2006), the Turkmen (see Kalter 1984), and the Uzbek (see Bogoslovskaya and Levteeva 2006, Kalter and Pavaloi 1995). Particular emphasis is placed on the role of ikat, a combined dyeing and weaving technique that creates distinctive decorative effects. The production and role of ikat are discussed in Fitzgibbon and Hale 1997.
  810.  
  811. Barnes, Ruth. “Dressing for the Great Game: The Robert Shaw Collection in the Ashmolean Museum.” Khil’a 1 (2005): 1–14.
  812. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  813. A detailed account of a group of central Asian garments, including overcoats, robes, trousers, and caps, presented to and collected by Robert Shaw in the 1860s. Useful for dating similar items in public and private collections. A fascinating piece of detective work by the author.
  814. Find this resource:
  815.  
  816. Bogoslovskaya, Irina, and Larisa Levteeva. Skullcaps of Uzbekistan, 19th–20th Centuries. Tashkent, Uzbekistan: Art Press, 2006.
  817. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  818. A fully illustrated book about one aspect of dress and identity in central Asia, namely, the embroidered skullcaps worn by men, women, and children in Uzbekistan. Will become a standard book on the subject.
  819. Find this resource:
  820.  
  821. Dzhanibekov, Uzbekali. The Kazakh Costume. Almati, Kazakhstan: Onhp, 1996.
  822. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  823. One of the few books that deals with Kazakh costumes. A detailed study of mainly historic garments with a selection of modern and historic outfits for men and women. The role of dress in both northern and southern Kazakh society is placed into context.
  824. Find this resource:
  825.  
  826. Fitzgibbon, Kate, and Andrew Hale. Ikat Silks of Central Asia: The Guido Goldman Collection. London: Laurence King, 1997.
  827. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  828. Exhibition catalogue for a display of ikat silks held in various museums, including the Boston Museum of Fine Arts 1997 show. The exhibition included a range of ikat silks used for wall hangings, velvet stripes, as well as kaftans. The book includes more items than were displayed at the exhibition.
  829. Find this resource:
  830.  
  831. Harvey, Janet. Traditional Textiles of Central Asia. London: Thames & Hudson, 1997.
  832. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  833. A good introduction to the subject of textiles in central Asia and Afghanistan. The author covers a range of subjects, including a general history of the region and the people, the role of the various trade routes that have historically crossed the region, as well as iconography and motifs. The sections on textiles and dress include chapters on materials, dyes, felts, weaving and applied decoration, such as embroidery, block-printing, and fabric printing.
  834. Find this resource:
  835.  
  836. Hessenhuis Museum. Music for the Eyes: Textiles from the Peoples of Central Asia. Antwerp, Belgium: Hessenhuis Museum, 1997.
  837. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  838. Exhibition at the Hessenhuis Museum created in conjunction with the Russian Ethnographic Museum, Saint Petersburg. The catalogue concentrates on carpets, rugs, and yurts, but there are sections on Turkmen and Uzbek dress and jewelry. Most notably there are two chapters on textiles and dress, both by T. Emelyanenko, and there is one chapter on jewelry by Alois van Tongerloo.
  839. Find this resource:
  840.  
  841. Kalter, Johannes. The Arts and Crafts of Turkistan. London: Thames & Hudson, 1984.
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  843. Originally an exhibition catalogue that was rewritten as an accompanying book. It is a good introduction to the subject of Turkistan and to the wide range of items associated with Turkic material culture from this region. In particular, the subjects of clothing, jewelry, and weapons are well documented. The numerous historical and modern color illustrations make the subject particularly approachable.
  844. Find this resource:
  845.  
  846. Kalter, Johannes, and Margareta Pavaloi. Usbekistan: Erben der Seidenstrasse. Stuttgart: Hansjörg Mayer, 1995.
  847. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  848. A fully illustrated exhibition catalogue on the history of and life in Uzbekistan. Considerable information about Uzbek textiles, dress, and jewelry. A standard work for anyone interested in central Asia and Uzbekistan.
  849. Find this resource:
  850.  
  851. Klavdiya, Antipina, Rolando Paiva, and Temirbek Musakeev. Kyrghyzstan. Berenice, Egypt: Skira, 2006.
  852. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  853. A fully illustrated book with detailed text concerning the costumes worn by various Kyrghyz groups in Kyrghyzstan and surrounding countries. Much of the text is based on the work of the Russian anthropologist Claudia Antipina. A standard work for anyone interested in central Asian costume.
  854. Find this resource:
  855.  
  856. Afghan Dress
  857.  
  858. Although there are various general articles about the use of the so-called Afghan burqa or chadari, very little has been written in general about the history, range, or role of Afghan dress. The complex range of urban and regional dress for men and women is a major study in itself. Some useful introductory studies include Clothing in the Encyclopaedia Iranica. More general historical details can be found in Elphinstone 1998 and Vogelsang 2010. The role of dress in modern Afghan politics is discussed in Vogelsang 2005. The role of jewelry among Afghan Turkmen is discussed in Munneke 1990.
  859.  
  860. Clothing. In Encyclopaedia Iranica. Edited by Ehsan Yar-Shater.
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  862. A general survey of pre-Islamic and Islamic dress in the Persian world, including a section on Afghan dress. A starting point for anyone interested in the field.
  863. Find this resource:
  864.  
  865. Elphinstone, Major-General William George. An Account of the Kingdom of Caubul and Its Dependencies in Persia, Tartary and India. New Delhi: Munshiram Manoharlal, 1998.
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  867. A detailed account of life in Afghanistan and neighboring Pakistan at the beginning of the 19th century with details about garments and textiles used there. Originally published in 1815.
  868. Find this resource:
  869.  
  870. Munneke, Roelof. Goud en Kornalijn: Turkmeense sieraden uit Centraal-Azië. Leiden, The Netherlands: Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde, 1990.
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  872. A small book accompanying an exhibition about Turkmen jewelry held at the Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde in 1990. Many of the items come from Afghanistan. Numerous illustrations and a useful text.
  873. Find this resource:
  874.  
  875. Vogelsang, Willem. “Dressing for the Future in Ancient Garb: The Use of Clothing in Afghan Politics.” Khil’a 1 (2005): 123–138.
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  877. Discusses the range of clothing worn by President Hamid Karzai of Afghanistan and how he has deliberately used garments from different ethnic groups to create a “unified” appearance.
  878. Find this resource:
  879.  
  880. Vogelsang, Willem. “Regional Dress of Afghanistan.” In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Vol. 5. Edited by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 313–322. Oxford: Berg, 2010.
  881. Save Citation »Export Citation »E-mail Citation »
  882. A general introduction to the main forms of regional dress for men and women associated with various ethnic groups in Afghanistan. These groups include the Baluch, Hazara, Nuristani, Pashtun, Tajik, and Uzbek.
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