Fragrance General

>Glossary
Notes: One or more (often synthetic) compounds that humans recognize as a particular smell (e.g., Lemon, Lavender).
Top notes: The notes present immediately after application. Usually fresh or sharp notes such as citrus and herbs.
Middle notes: The notes that emerge as the top notes fade. The heart of the fragrance. Usually rounded florals or spicy notes.
Base notes: The last notes to appear. Usually richer and darker notes such as woods and musks.
Accord: Common combination of notes that evoke a particular feel (e.g., Powdery, Aromatic).
Family/Group: The "genre" of a fragrance based on the note breakdown (e.g., Chypre, Fougère).
Longevity: How long the fragrance will last on your skin until it is completely unnoticeable.
Sillage: The size of the scent cloud or how far the fragrance projects its scent.
Perfumer: The "nose" or composer responsible for designing a fragrance.

>Concentrations
Eau de Cologne (EdC): About 2–6% aromatic compounds, historically a style of short-lived citrus fragrances originating in Cologne, Germany.
Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15% aromatic compounds. The most common concentration in designer fragrances.
Eau de Parfum (EdP), 10-20% aromatic compounds. The most common concentration in niche fragrances.
Pure Perfume/Perfume Extract: 15-40% aromatic compounds.

With higher concentrations expect a higher price, longevity and sillage, but certain note combinations outperform others so this is a rough guide.
Don't call fragrances colognes or after-shave unless that is what you're actually talking about.

>Designer/Niche
Most fragrances are made in big labs at the behalf of designers, or in-house at a few of them. Hundreds are released every year and most fail. They're generally between $30 and $120. Niche fragrances are made by the same perfumers, but with greater creative freedom, higher quality ingredients and much steeper prices. Don't expect to find many priced below $150.

>Flankers
In a perfect world these are interesting new takes on a fragrance. Examples of this includes Allure Homme Edition Blanche (ups the vanilla and adds a lemon note for a lemon-cream pie feel) and Allure Homme Sport (dials down the oriental notes while adding an aquatic one). Unfortunately, what usually happens is that a designer has a hit, and capitalizes on the brand by churning out cheaply made crap.

>Reformulations
IRFA and the EU regulate which compounds can be used in fragrances and in what quantities because of allergy and toxicity concerns. Some ingredients have been used to near extinction. These limits become stricter all the time and so recipes undergo changes to accommodate them, usually to their detriment. Vintage fragrances can be bought on eBay for die-hard fans.

>Resources
Fragrantica and Basenotes for info such as note breakdowns of specific fragrances.
FragranceX and FragranceNet are trusted online discounters, but mostly carry designers. Lucky Scent is a good retailer for niche fragrances, although many purchase directly from the niche brands themselves.
Sampling fragrances before you buy them is recommended as they perform differently from person to person. For designers go to a local store and try them on for free. For niche fragrances, buy samples at Lucky Scent, The Perfumed Court, First-in-Fragrance or Surrender to Chance.

>FAQ
>How many sprays and where?
This depends on the sillage of the fragrance. Generally, 1-2 sprays for EdPs and 2-5 for EdC/EdTs. Go for pulse points such as the neck and wrists.

>Why different fragrances for different seasons/times of day?
Temperature affects how we perceive certain notes. Warming or spicy notes smell overpowering when it is hot, but are cosy and inviting when it is cold. Aquatic or citrus notes are refreshing when it is hot, but can seem synthetic, boozy or sour when it is cold.

>What fragrance will make women sleep with me?
A fragrance will not be the deciding factor here.