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Aug 8th, 2015
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  1. Working on Phaons is an easy job.
  2.  
  3. Flight Control Side
  4.  
  5. 1.- With a 1.5mm Allen wrench, remove the gold knob of Flight Control
  6. 2.- Take off the lower assembly off the crown by loosening the 6 crown bolts with a 5mm Allen wrench
  7. 3.- With a 27mm spanner (or adjustable wrench) remove the topcap of the flight control side. You'll get the topcap along with the brass shaft that activates the core of the Flight Control. At this point you have easy access to the spring. The standard one on that side is soft, if I remember well.
  8. 4.- Remove the foot bolt on the Flight Control side with a 6mm Allen wrench.
  9. 5.- Pull off the stanchion along with the Flight Control Assembly. Clean everything.
  10. 6.- Grease the lowers inside with the bushings and seals. Liberally.
  11. 7.- Insert the stanchion, taking care of pushing the stanchion evenly into the seals. Otherwise you may nick them. Don't spook it's an easy job. Just be careful, not hamfisted.
  12. 8.- Push the piston all the way down and with an allen wrench or something pointed, guide the Flight Control's assembly bottom and thread in the foot bolt.
  13. 9.- Tighten foot bolt at specified torque (see manual).
  14. 10.- Insert whatever spring (or no spring) you want in there and pull the stanchion ALL THE WAY UP. You'll have some resistance. The seals all around the fork are air tight and you'll be fighting the vacuum as you pull the stanchion up. "Piercing" the piston's hex hole with the Flight Control's brass hex rod helps a bit. The other way to do this is not to tighten the foot bolt fully, so the seal the foot bolt has don't get in the way and allow air to go in.
  15. 11.- Put back topcap at specified torque.
  16. 12.- Refit lowers to crown, following Manual's Instructions.
  17.  
  18. If you want to replace the grease for oil (I've found out that this makes the fork plain stupid plush, but it may void your warranty, but who cares, this fork is more than 10 years old already as of 2015!), at step 5, clean perfectly the grease off all the innards. Then with the stanchion in, but not fully seated against the lowers, pour in about 40cc's of oil (10wt or the 5wt used on the other side are good to go). Carefully, push the piston all the way in and install and tighten the foot bolt. Oil will want to squirt, to work with the fork upsidedown. Then, before closing the fork by putting in the topcap, pour 5cc's on top of the piston.
  19.  
  20. For the damping side.... this gets interesting, but still easy.
  21.  
  22. 1.- Remove lowers off from fork.
  23. 2.- Remove rebound dial by using a flat bladed screw driver and pushing it up.
  24. 3.- Pull off with some pliers, the compression knob.
  25. 4.- With the 27mm spanner, remove topcap and slide stanchion into the lowers
  26. 5.- With a 9mm spanner, hold the flat on the golden shaft (spring will get in your way, you'll have to fight it a bit) while you insert a 8mm allen wrench into the hex socket left by the rebound dial at the topcap. Turn the allen wrench counterclockwise while you hold the shaft steady with the 9mm spanner. Be careful!!!! The topcap comes off along with the rebound dial shaft. At this point you can swap springs here too... THIS LEG HAS ALWAYS TO HAVE A SPRING IN THERE, NO MATTER WHAT!!!!
  27. 6.- Get the spring off your way. Keep any spacers found below the topcap.
  28. 7.- With a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the foot nut (the one you removed the compression dial off). Oil will pour out at this stage. Put a bucket beneath to collect oil. Dispose it properly.
  29. 8.- Pull off the cartridge, cycle it a few times to remove any oil left in there. More oil will come off.
  30. 9.- Pull off the stanchion. Clean all parts perfectly with a lint free rag. Put stanchion back in when clean as indicated before for Flight Control's side. If you degreased parts, lube the seals with some light assembly grease.
  31. 10.- Put cartridge in.
  32. 11.- Put and tighten the foot bolt. It will not come up to specified torque unless you happen to use an impact (air driven) wrench. The reson is that there is a seal below the cartridge and the cartridge will spin before getting tight. Fortunately, the torque needed to keep this seal doing its job is very little and there's enough engagement between the foot bolt and cartridge to ensure the bolt will not come off loose and/or strip the threads of the cartridge.
  33. 12.- Pour in 135cc's of 5wt oil... or whatever grade you want to put in there. (please doublecheck the Oil Volume tables, as I'm only like 80% sure about the 135cc figure)
  34. 13.- Reassemble topcap and rebound shaft onto cartridge's shaft.
  35. 14.- Reassemble topcap to stanchion.
  36. 15.- Refit lowers to crown, following Manual's Instructions.
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