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- --- I saw, I ran, I tripped. SLSS Guide to everyday rolls and actions ---
- There are a number of actions that you will probably engage in at least somewhat regularly in your life, adventuring or otherwise. And there are many things worth looking into to be able to judge fairly in a pinch. Climbing, hiking, jumping or spotting an enemy, all common actions that are worth looking into. This guide will be split into two sections: Physical Feats and Senses (senses still to come).
- -- Physical Feats --
- Here are presented rules for many tasks important to adventurers. For tasks not listed here, use a basic Dex modifier roll for a task requiring precision, a Str roll for things requiring brute power or a Vit roll for feats of endurance. To determine weight moved or weight done, use Basic Lift (Str*Str/10 in kg). Movement speed should generally be proportional to Move.
- - Climbing -
- Moved to the Skill guide, read the rules under "Climbing" here: http://pastebin.com/Eu3076xy
- - Digging -
- Because you know it's just SO often you have to dig a hole on a time limit in adventures, digging rules (Could also be interesting to calculate mine output). Digging rate depends on the digger's Basic Lift (StrxStr/10 in kg) and the quality of tools available.
- Loose Soil, Sand, etc: A pony can dig BLx30 liters per hour (l/h, 30l are roughly one cubic foot).
- Ordinary Soil: A pony can dig roughly BLx15 l/h. One pony with a pick can break up BLx60 l/h, making it into loose soil, which is easier to remove. The most efficient way to dig is with one pony with a pick and two shovelers clearing behind him.
- Hard Soil, Clay, etc.: MUST by broken first by a pick, at BLx30 l/h, and then shoveled at BLx30 l/h. A lone pony with both pick and shovel can only remove BLx10 l/h, he loses time switching between tools.
- Hard Rock: MUST be broken by a pick at BLx15 l/h (or slower, for very hard rock!), and then shoveled at BLx15 l/h.
- All of the above assume iron or steel tools! Halve speed for wooden tools. Divide by 4 for improvised tools - bare hooves, a spoon, etc. Explosives allow to reduce harder material into more easily shovelable material instantly, shaving the need to break it up with a pick. How effectively it reduces rock and how much it reduces depends on explosives size and type. See the Explosives skill (Somewhat WIP) in the skill guide for more info (http://pastebin.com/Eu3076xy).
- Time Required and Fatigue Cost
- To find the time required to dig a given hole, find the volume of the hole in liters by multiplying height*width*depth (all in meters), and then multiplying by 1000. Then divide the the number of liters by the digging rate to find the hours of work required. Each hour of work costs 1FP for loose soil, 2FP for ordinary soil, 3 FP for hard soil and 4 FP for hard rock.
- - Hiking -
- Long term cross country speed on hoof depends on ground Move. Start with Basic Move and reduce it for encumbrance (See Encumbrance in the Player's Guide for more info), injury and exhaustion, as applicable. The distance in kilometers you can march in one day, under ideal conditions, equals 20xMove.
- A seasoned hiker can roll survival or Vit-2 against SN 10 to increase their marching distance by 20 %. A group leader may roll against SN 10 using their groups AVERAGE hiking skill. Success means the group marches 20% farther, failure means the whole group must forgo the bonus.
- When the rules result in different speeds for different members of the party, they must either move at the speed of the SLOWEST member or split up (Which they will surely not do, since they know the first rule of adventuring, I hope). Note that a group that has opted to do a combined Hiking roll has already decided to not split up!
- Terrain
- Once you know your ideal daily mileage, modify it for the terrain as follows:
- Very Bad: Deep snow, dense forest, jungle, mountains, soft sand or swamp. x0.20.
- Bad: Broken ground (including streams), forest or steep hills. x0.50.
- Average: Light forest or rolling hills. x1.00.
- Good: Hard packed desert or level plains. x1.25.
- Weather
- Weather conditions can further modify distance traveled:
- Rain: Rain halves off-road speed in any terrain. See Roads below for the effects of rain on roads.
- Snow: Ankle-deep snow halves speed in any terrain. Anything deeper divides speed by 4 or more. Using skis though allow travelers to treat any depth of snow as average terrain. A good skier can use any modifier he may have (I'm not making a skiing perk but if you have one anyways fine whatever) on skiing in place of Survival.
- Ice: Cold combined with moisture, due to rain, sleet or snowmelt etc., results in ice. A coating of ice halves speed in any terrain. Solid ice, such as a frozen lake or river, is effectively it's own terrain type, treat it as Bad terrain, unless you use skates, in which case it counts as Good terrain. If you for some odd reason have a skating bonus, you may use that instead of any hiking modifier you may have.
- Roads: In fine weather, most roads count as Average terrain, regardless of the surrounding terrain. Very good roads, that are paved and such, might even count as Good terrain. In rain, low quality roads - unsurfaced dirt or gravel - turn to mud. Treat them as very bad terrain. Better roads are treated as Average in the rain. In snow or ice, treat roads as Average terrain, but apply the movement penalties above unless the road is cleared.
- Time Required and Fatigue Cost
- These rules assume you spend the entire day preparing for your hike, hiking or resting, leaving NO time for study or other activity. This is true however low your daily mileage - the heavier your load and the worse the traveling conditions, the more slowly you walk and the more frequently you stop to rest. Should you interrupt your travels for adventuring matters (such as the ever pesky random encounters), you will be missing FP when you stop. See Fatigue for details.
- -- Holding Your Breath --
- Adventurers often need to hold their breath, whether to dive or to survive poison gas, strangulation, vacuum, a particularly vicious fart etc. Your Vit (not Vit modifier) determined the length of time you can hold your breathe, as follows:
- No Exertion (e.g. sitting quietly or meditating): Vitx2 rounds.
- Mild Exertion (e.g. treading water or walking): Vit rounds.
- Heavy Exertion (e.g. climbing, combat or running): Vit/4 rounds.
- These assume you have a second to take a deep breathe, multiply all times by 1.5 if you hyperventilate for one full round before hand, by 2.5 if you hyperventilate with pure oxygen. However, if you are surprised and don't have a chance to take a deep breathe, e.g. a cute cuddly creature suddenly spews poisonous gas at you, HALVE these times!
- At then end of this time, you lose 1FP per round. At 0 FP, you must a Will roll every turn or fall unconscious, and are likely to die unless you are rescued. See Suffocation for more information.
- -- Jumping --
- Moved to the Skills guide under "Acrobatics": http://pastebin.com/Eu3076xy
- - Lifting and Moving Things -
- Basic Lift (Str*Str/10 in kg) governs the weight you can pick up and move. The GM may let multiple characters add their BL (but NOT their Str) whenever it seems reasonable, e.g. to pull a wagon. (Note that as always, 'hand' refers to the front two hooves)
- One Handed Lift: 2xBL (takes a move action)
- Two Handed Lift: 8xBL (takes at least one full round action)
- Shove and Knock Over: 12xBL. Double this if you have a running start. The GM may also make allowances for precariously balanced objects, to make them easier to tilt etc.
- Carry on Back: 15xBL. Thus, you can carry more than you can lift by yourself...but every round your encumbrance is over 10xBL (that is, Extra-Heavy encumbrance), you lose 1FP.
- Shift Slightly: Depending on your footing and the way you are braced, you could shift or rock 50xBL.
- Pulling and Dragging
- When you pull a load behind you unassisted, use its full weight. Halve the effective weight if you are pulling a sled over snow or ice, divide effective weight by 10 for a two wheeled car, and divide effective weight by 20 for a four wheeled wagon. (Remember to add the weight of the sledge, cart or wagon to that of the load before dividing!)
- In all cases, if the surface is smooth and relatively level, for instance a road or frozen lake, halve the effective weight of the load. This is cumulative with the effects of a sled, cart or wagon.
- Final effective weight pulled, after all modifiers, cannot exceed 15xBL if you have any hope of moving the object at all. Determine your encumbrance level using effective weight and work out Move normally.
- Lifting and Moving Things during Combat
- In combat, you can pick up an item that weighs no more than twice your basic lift as a move action (includes things such as light weapons, potions etc). Picking up a larger item usually takes one full turn, but can take more if it is very unwieldy or large, according to the GM. To pick up an unwilling character, you must first grapple him (See Grappling in the Advanced Combat Guide). He may attempt to break free during the time it takes you to pick him up of course!
- To buck, body-block, shove or otherwise shift an obstacle in combat requires a standard action. You can move or knock over up to 12xBL this way. If you run your full move in the same turn beforehand, you can knock over twice this weight (24xBL) by slamming into it at a run. These rules are for INANIMATE objects, see Slam in the Advanced Combat Guide for rules governing attempts to knock over someone who can actively resist.
- In all cases, if an attempt seems reasonable, do not pause the battle to compare weight to BL. Use common sense. Make it fun!
- - Running -
- As a full round action, you can sprint in a straight line. If you do this, you can't take a 1m step this round. You move up to four times your Mo in a straight line as a sprint. Alternatively, you may do a "paced run", which is 3 times your Mo. After every round of sprinting or every minute of paced running, roll a SN 10 Vit check, on a failure you lose 1 FP. Once you are reduced to 1/3 FP, your movement speed is halved, as described under Fatigue.
- - Flying -
- Overland and combat flying functions just as described under Hiking and Running, except that your air Move is the relevant judge of speed (which is equal to twice Basic Move), your Fly skill replaces any Hiking skill, and you can ignore any terrain modifiers, but weather and wind can still affect you, as described under Weather in the Environment Guide. Also see the Flying skill for more information (http://pastebin.com/Eu3076xy).
- - Swimming -
- Moved to the skill doc under Swimming: http://pastebin.com/Eu3076xy
- - Throwing -
- You can throw anything you can pick up, that is, anything with a weight of BLx8 or less. If the object you wish to throw is not already in your hands, you must take the appropriate action(s) to pick it up. Throwing an object in combat takes a Standard Action. You can throw objects up to 2xBL with one hoof, heavier objects require two hooves. Roll a Ranged Attack with a -4 penalty due to using an improvised weapon. To not bog down the game with lots of unnecessary tables or math, assume an improvised object has a range increment of 3 meters, higher or lower if the GM deems otherwise. The default damage is 1d4 for something you could hold in one hoof like a rock, increase damage roughly proportional to weight. A very large rock a pony could heft with two hooves might deal 2d6 damage, but most ponies cannot lift anything heavier. Add your strength modifier to the damage roll. Objects DESIGNED to be thrown list how far they can be thrown and their damage and don't take a penalty as long as you are proficient with them.
- - Extra Effort -
- Through sheer force of will, you can push your body past it's usual limits when you perform a physical tasks. This is called "extra effort". You can use extra effort to increase your Basic Lift (but NOT Str itself) when digging or lifting, daily mileage when hiking, Move when running or swimming, distance when jumping, and Str for the purpose of throwing, making a single Str roll or drawing or cocking a bow or crossbow that's too strong for you. You CANNOT use extra effort to increase the time you can hold your breath - that would be self-defeating!
- To use extra effort, roll Will against SN (5 + 1 per 5% increase in capabilities + FP below 10). You gain a +5 if you are motivated by fear, anger or concern for a loved one! (GM's decision if your emotions are sufficient to warrant this bonus)
- Extra effort costs FP whether you succeed or fail. Instantaneous feats (e.g. jumps or throws) cost a flat 1 FP per attempt. Ongoing tasks (digging, running, swimming, etc.) require repeated extra effort rolls, and cost 1 FP per roll. Hiking works differently, see below. Pay the FP cost for extra effort immediately after you attempt your Will roll. Note that the FP spent on extra effort do not penalize THIS attempt, but increase the SN for FUTURE attempts until you recover the FP.
- On a success, you gain the desired increase in your physical capabilities. This does not guarantee success at the task at hand - you could still fail the Jump roll for your extra effort jump, for example. On a critical success, you do not have to pay FP for your extra effort. On a failure, you achieve only what you would have accomplished without extra effort. A critical failure means you lose HP equal to the FP spent on the attempt - including any FP the task would have cost without extra effort - and the task fails automatically! You must also make an immediate Vit roll against SN 10 to avoid acquiring a temporary Flaw appropriate to the task. Handle recovery as described in Duration of Crippling Injuries. Sufficiently bad Vit roll can result in a PERMANENT flaw.
- Notes for specific Tasks
- Instead of rolling against Will to use extra effort, you may make a Will-based roll instead of the relevant skill, if that would be better.
- Digging: For every hour of digging, make an extra-effort roll and pay 1 FP. This ADDS to the usual FP cost. On a critical failure, the injury is to your back and will heal only with rest. On failing the Vit roll, you acquire the Bad Back flaw.
- Hiking: Make one extra-effort roll per day. Extra effort increases the FP drain you suffer by two when you stop on a march (See Fatigue). Assess injury due to critical failure at the end of the day, and base it on the modified FP penalty. For instance, if you would normally be missing 5 FP when you stopped, you would be missing 7FP if you use extra effort - and if you critically fail, you would end the day with 7 HP of injury! When using the Survival skill, roll at -1 per 5% extra mileage beyond the basic 20% from a successful hike roll.
- Jumping: On a critical failure, apply the injury to the foot or leg (GM's option, or roll randomly), on failing the Vit roll, you temporarily acquire the Crippled Legs flaw.
- Lifting and Moving Things: For every minute of continuing effort, make an extra-effort roll and pay 1 FP (This cost ADDS to the 1 FP per round for carrying encumbrance over 10xBL, if applicable). Handle critical failures as described for digging.
- Running: For every round of sprinting or minute of paced running, make an extra-effort roll and pay 1 FP. This ADDS to the FP cost for failed Vit rolls while running! On a critical failure, apply the injury to one of your legs, on failing the Vit roll, you acquire the Crippled Leg flaw.
- Swimming: For every minute of swimming, make an extra effort roll and pay 1 FP.
- Extra Effort in Combat
- At the GM's option, fighters can use extra effort in combat. These rules work differently from those above, mostly to not bog down the fight with extra die rolls and calculations. As such, they do not require Will rolls to use. You must declare you are using extra effort and spend the required FP before you make your attack or defense roll. A critical failure on the roll causes 1 HP of injury to the arm or leg (as appropriate) in addition to any damage from a critical failure. DR does not protect from this damage!
- Feverish Defense: You throw yourself around with little regards to pacing yourself, making you harder to hit. Until your next turn, you take +2 to AC. This can be used to balance out the penalty from an All Out Attack. This bonus stacks with that of an All Out Defense. Using a feverish defense is a free action and costs 1 FP.
- All out Attack: If you're desperate, you can launch everything you've got on an enemy, leaving yourself open. This functions as a Full Attack, but can only be done in melee. You gain one additional attack with your primary weapon, but all attacks you make this round (including attacks of opportunity) have a -4 to hit. You also take a -2 dodge penalty to AC until your next turn, and provoke an attack of opportunity from the foe you are attacking. This is a full round action and costs 1 FP.
- Mighty Blow: You put all your weight behind a single attack, dealing additional damage. You perform a single attack and deal +2 damage if you hit. This is a full round action and costs 1 FP.
- Precise Strike: Disregarding your own safety, you get close to your enemy to strike between their defenses. You attack an your enemy with a +4 to hit, but the enemy in turn also gain +2 to strike you until the beginning of your next turn. This is a full round action and costs 1 FP.
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