DIRT TUNING

SELENAUT'S TUNING TIPS

BRAKE BIAS: affects turning under braking. Rear bias = understeer on braking.

TORQUE BIAS (differential): affects turning under throttle. Rear bias = oversteer on throttle.

VISCOUS DIFF: (front and rear): affects how the wheels in the front/rear spin in relation to each other. Strong = the wheels are locked together (can affect over/understeer); loose = the wheels can turn independently (usually causes more stable steering, but less straight line speed).

CAMBER: Affects the "vertical" angle of the tires. You really only ever want to consider negative camber. This is also really only useful for tarmac, as the camber helps plant more tire surface on the tarmac while turning, giving you better grip. But in straight lines, there isn't as much tire on the ground, so you get less grip on the straights.

TOE: Affects the "lateral" angle of the tires. Toe in on the tires gives you better straight line stability, but your cornering will suffer a little. Toe out is the opposite: less stable straights, better turning.

GEARS: Pretty obvious, but short gears give you more acceleration (wheel spin is likely), and long gears give you more top speed (and less wheel spin).

GENERAL SUSPENSION TIPS: stiffer means the car won't rock in corners, which is good, but will fly off bumps. Which is bad. Softer is the other way around. And you don't want the car's body to be swaying in the corners; that can cause all sorts of crazy over-understeer weight distribution craziness.

RIDE HEIGHT: higher = can clear obstacles, but has a higher center of gravity (not as good at cornering). Lower = lower center of gravity (good for cornering) but obviously can't clear obstacles.