Warning!
Here I am going to detail a more advanced strategy I have been exploring for some time. Some reading this article may find this strategy to be distasteful, unsportsmanlike, or even unethical. However, I believe this strategy will be useful to those who are willing to do whatever it takes to win more matches, even at the potential cost of friendships, reputation, social standing, and maybe even parts of your own conscience. You alone can determine if you are willing to use this technique, and how its use may influence you both as a player and as a person.

"There may be little honor in my tactics, but there is no honor in losing." -Mardu Hateblade
Introduction
It's commonly known that Lantern is great at stealing G1 against most established archetypes. Its unique angle of attack, sidestepping common mainboard interaction, and the higher amount of dead cards in opponents' decks pre-board make the first game of a match typically swing in Lantern's favor.

However, Lantern is also particularly vulnerable to being hated out by well-prepared sideboards. Every deck has access to a variety of cards that can simply crush us in postboard games.

In the event Lantern wins G1, it's common to ask, "How do I maximize my chances of winning G2?" However, in many situations, I would argue that this is both the wrong question to ask, and the wrong time at which to ask it. Magic tournaments primarily care about how many matches you have won, and only use game win percentages for advanced tiebreaks.

The question we should be asking is, "How do I maximize my chances of winning this match?" I argue that the best way to win the match at this point is to aim for not losing G2, and the best way to not lose G2 is to not finish G2. If you don't have time with which to finish G2, then you cannot possibly lose it, no matter how poorly it goes for you.

Furthermore, the time we should be asking it is immediately after we know we've locked G1. The Lantern pilot should make every legal attempt to keep their opponent invested in the locked game, and keep their thoughts and attention away from conceding the hopeless game and away from the round timer ticking down to their doom.

It goes without saying that these techniques are useless in untimed rounds. You'll have to win the match normally regardless of how long you spend screwing around. Nobody, not even you, wants the game to last for 2 hours, so just win and get it over with.

It also goes without saying that these techniques are useless in G2 and G3 of timed rounds when you've already locked the game. If you're already winning these games, it's always in your best interest to win as quickly as possible. I touch on this in a later section.

Legality
Feel free to skip to the Takeaways section if you're not interested in the legalese explanations behind my approach.

For this section, I will be making heavy use of the Annotated versions of the Magic Tournament Rules (AMTR) and Infraction Procedure Guide (AIPG). Here are links for the AMTR and AIPG for your reference.

At first glance, it may seem I am recommending you slow play and stall the game to accomplish this goal. However, note my emphasis on the word legal. There are ways to accomplish this goal without stalling the game, and in fact it is often to your benefit to keep the game going at a reasonably fast pace when attempting to stall highly skilled opponents.

There are some rules we must abide by. For example, AMTR 5.5 defines Slow Play:

Players must take their turns in a timely fashion regardless of the complexity of the play situation and adhere to time limits specified for the tournament. Players must maintain a pace to allow the match to be finished in the announced time limit. Stalling is not acceptable. Players may ask a judge to watch their game for slow play; such a request will be granted if feasible.

The round time limit is not equally split between players. This means that a player thinking too long to make plays is “stealing” time from his opponent. This can give him or her an unfair advantage or degrade an opponent’s play experience. Even when there are no time limits, one player taking too much time for his actions is wasting everyone’s time. For examples of Slow Play, see IPG 3.3.

Intentionally playing slowly to take advantage of time limit is considered Stalling. For more information about how to handle these infractions at Competitive Rules Enforcement Level, see IPG 4.7.

IPG 3.3, in part, defines Slow Play as follows:

Tournament Error — Slow Play
Definition
A player takes longer than is reasonably required to complete game actions.

Players are required to play at a reasonable pace, but what is a reasonable pace? It’s not really defined anywhere. There is no explicit number of seconds to make a decision. If we say “taking longer than 30 seconds to make a decision is slow play,” then players can legally take 29 seconds to make every decision, and we have just legalized Stalling. ...

Players can be playing slowly without realizing it and unintentionally. If they are playing slowly with the specific purpose of eating up time on the clock (either to cement the win, or force a draw, or for other reasons) then it’s not Slow Play, it’s Stalling (i.e. cheating). ...

Examples
A. A player repeatedly reviews his opponent’s graveyard without any significant change in game state.

B. A player spends time writing down the contents of an opponent’s library while resolving Thought Hemorrhage.

C. A player takes an excessive amount of time to shuffle his deck between games.

D. A player gets up from his seat to look at standings or goes to the bathroom without permission of an official. ...

IPG 4.7, in part, defines Stalling as follows:

Unsporting Conduct — Stalling
Definition
A player intentionally plays slowly in order to take advantage of the time limit.

This infraction describes situations in which a player is fully aware of the time remaining in the round and he or she attempts to run the clock out in order to win or deny the opponent the time needed to play. For example, a player may count or look through his or her sideboard or graveyard for no strategic reason. Alternatively, the player may act as if he or she is looking for tokens, emblems, or dice, and take an unusual amount of time in doing so.

If the slow play is not intentional, please refer to Tournament Error — Slow Play instead.

... The key thing to look for when issuing a penalty for Stalling is intent. If there wasn’t intent on the part of the player, then the appropriate infraction is Slow Play.

Examples
A. A player has two lands in his hand, no options available to significantly affect the game, and spends excessive time “thinking” about what to do to eat up time on the clock.

...

B. A player is ahead in games and significantly slows down his pace of play so the opponent has little chance to catch up.

A player wins the first game and realizes that instead of winning a second game, he could waste the time that the opponent would need to catch up by intentionally playing slowly.

C. A player playing slowly appeals a warning in an attempt to gain advantage by having more time to make a decision.

...

D. A player intentionally mulligans slowly before the third game in an attempt to make it harder for his opponent to win in time.

After splitting the match 1-1, a player who is playing for a draw against an opponent who needs the win may decide to take his time sideboarding, shuffling, and mulliganing to eat up time in an effort to force the match to a draw.

E. A player losing a game starts slowing down the pace of play in an attempt to run out the clock.

A player knows that he or she is about to lose the current game, but realizes it is possible to draw the match if the opponent is unable to “finish him off” in time. Knowing that a draw is better than a loss, that player begins to slow his or her rate of play to below a reasonable pace to deny the opponent the time needed.

Takeaways
So now that we've educated ourselves on the definitions of stalling and slow play, we can now devise a strategy that avoids these pitfalls.

Here's what we are not allowed to do:

We cannot spend excessive amounts of time making decisions.
Barring disability, we cannot be slow when taking mechanical motions e.g. tapping millrocks, flipping topdecks, milling cards.
We cannot burn time by unnecessarily reviewing the board state. It's exceptionally obvious when a Lantern player does this, because 90% of the time we don't care about the board state.
We cannot change our pace of play depending on how advantageous it may be to us. Play with the same vigor when executing these tactics as you would during normal play.
Here are some examples of what we are allowed to do:

We can complicate the game state as much as our cards allow us.
We can perform a complex chain of actions as long as they have some impact on the game state.
We can actively make "bad" decisions. Judges are not allowed to provide strategic advice.
We can bluff and distract our opponent.
In short, as long as you are spending your time actually playing the game and changing the game state, then you are within your legal rights as a Magic player to take whatever actions you see fit — no matter how unnecessary, risky, unhelpful, convoluted, or even just plain stupid those actions are.

Reading Your Opponent
A successful application of legal diversionary techniques requires you to read your opponent well. In order to adequately tailor-make a diversion for your opponent, you must be able to answer a few questions about them within the first few turns of the first game:

How much about Lantern does my opponent understand? Do they have any misconceptions about my deck that I can take advantage of? Do they believe that any remaining outs in their library equals a chance at a win? Do they consider a 3x† lock to be game over?
How confident does my opponent feel against me? Do they feel like they have some trump card or strategy against me, and how much risk does affording them that line of play entail? Are they prone to scooping easily if I assemble the lock quickly or in an intimidating manner, or will doing so simply solidify their resolve against me?
What kinds of Magic does my opponent like to play? What's their player profile (Johnny, Timmy, Spike, etc)? Why do they play Magic? How can I provide them with opportunities to make plays that suit their play style without compromising the integrity of my lock on the game?
The key to successfully pulling off this tactic is to make your opponent feel like they are still in the game. In order to do that, you need to define what "in the game" means to your opponent.

I find that friendly social interaction with your opponent, among numerous other benefits, can provide you with a significant amount of this information. Simply asking them what they like about the game or why they chose the deck they did can be justified if you're able to build a sense of rapport and trust with your opponent. Their reaction to your friendly gestures will tell much, as will simply observing their body language, gaming accessories, facial expressions, reactions to your plays, and their own play style and choices.

Methodology
You have numerous tools at your disposal with which to create this illusion, and often you will be using multiple at once. Here, I will outline some of the tools I have developed and how they might apply to specific opponents and circumstances.

Remember that winning isn't your objective! The goal of these tricks is to make G1 last as long as possible while maintaining just strong enough of a lock to ensure victory. In order to do this, you must keep your opponent's attention in the game and away from the clock or thoughts of conceding. You are an entertainer putting on a show for your opponent, and the success of your strategies depends on how much your opponent is willing to buy your charade.

The Dead Deck
This is by far the easiest technique to use, and it is also extremely effective. Unfortunately, it usually only has an affect on certain low-skill or tilted opponents, and even then they must be playing a deck that mostly just folds to Bridge and/or Needle. All you do is, while playing at a normal pace, allow them to draw every. single. card. in. their. deck. Stubborn opponents will stew in their own salt as you give them all the Souls, Gideons, Smashers, and Reshapers they could ever hope for, while you gleefully go through forty turns of untap, upkeep, draw, main phase cast Bauble.

The Inefficiency Machine
You essentially set up a Rube Goldberg machine with your lock. Lantern has a lot of engine pieces that can come together to make spectacular shows for the right kinds of opponents while also eating tons of time off the clock. You need to strike a balance with the relevancy of your actions here; some opponents may concede if you're using this engine to tighten them too much, but if your plays aren't relevant enough, your opponent might think you're just playing with yourself now and will simply concede.

Example 1
This is a great technique to use against many players. Keep the power of your lock low (around 2x), and stock up on additional Lanterns to shuffle away unwanted cards. Shuffling eats up a ton of time, and forcing them to shuffle their deck once (or even twice!) a turn cycle will efficiently eat up the clock. This is best used in conjunction with Ruins to regrow used Lanterns. Make sure that you do eventually get a high-power lock going, as you may both need to catch up on time to finish the first game, and also get rid of a long string of bad draws on the bottom of their deck.

Example 2
You create an engine using Shredder, Needle, Decay, and Ruins where every other turn, you can blow up your own Needle and replay it in order to hit whatever fetchland they have coming on top of their deck.

Example 3
You rebuy Brutality enough times in a turn to take out your opponent's Grim Flayer or Tarmogoyf. ... All of them. Because why not?

The False Savior
This bluff involves convincing an opponent that a card on top of their deck is more valuable than it truly is. When you encounter this card, you might take some time to consider the impact of a card before begrudgingly allowing it through to be drawn. This is more effective at the beginning of the game where you have a low power lock, but can also be used later on under the guise of incompetence or a lack of attention. There is some inherent risk in using this strategy, as you need to predict what actions your opponent will take with the card they draw.

Often times, not only does this strategy lengthen the game, but it can also increase your lock on the game when executed properly, since you may convince your opponent to exhaust limited resources (Clue tokens, shuffles, extra draws) to obtain access to a card that won't actually win them the game. You must be able to determine the threat each card in their library can pose and weigh them against each other.

Example 1
You have a 2x lock against Bloody Jund when they flip a Scooze. You've got a Ruins in play that will be invalidated by this Scooze, but you also recognize that you have no need for your graveyard as long as you can draw more redundancy than they can draw removal. After mourning the loss of your grave, you allow your opponent to draw Scooze, then mill the Bloodbraid right under it.

Example 2
You have a strong lock against Jeskai Control and are milling an out or two when you see a Cryptic Command. You have two Bridges in play, though, so they would really need two Cryptics to have any real impact on the board state. After unconfidently milling them one, they respond with Electrolyze. You mill again, and see Remand on their Electrolyze. With only one millrock remaining, you surrender the battle over Cryptic and move to untap.

The Idiot Move
You intentionally make dumb low-power decisions in an attempt to stagnate the game's progression and convince your opponent of your idiocy. If your opponent believes you are incompetent, they are more likely to hope for you to screw up the lock and let something slip through. This works best if you are able to keep a steady stream of commentary from the beginning of the match; explaining your crazy plays will further instill that "wtf are they doing" feeling in your opponent. Your commentary may even prevent a concession once they see you have a potential to make a power play — for example, if you're playing against Living End and flip a Whir, you might be glad that you finally got your Cage; or maybe that Whir would represent a Needle against Burn for Grim Lavamancer, or a Bauble for an additional draw.

You need to read your opponent and determine how subtle you need to be when pulling this bluff. Some players need the additional commentary to remain invested, but others (typically more skilled players) only need to see you make a couple really pointless plays to lose confidence in you as a skilled pilot.

Example 1
You're playing against Affinity. You're at a healthy life total but allow them to draw Ornithopter and Signal Pest, exclaiming "Oh I think I have an answer for that". You then Whir for a Pithing Needle and slam it down, naming Signal Pest. Your opponent mocks you and mutters something like "rtfc" before pinging you next turn.

Example 2
You're playing against GW Valuetown with a decent lock in play and draw a Surgical. Now you could hit that Noble Hierarch or that Collected Company in their graveyard... but knowing they're probably banking on these cards to win the game, instead you elect to nab Windswept Heath because "I don't want you getting as much value out of your Tireless Trackers". You go through their deck and "forget" to grab the remaining copies before handing everything back to them.

The Dead End
This is one of the more advanced techniques to utilize, but is also quite nice in that it gains usefulness as your opponent's deck quality and skill increases. This is also by far the hardest technique to use and the one that comes with the most risk. Your goal is to weaken your own board state just enough to give a discerning opponent a "path" through your defenses, which you can then (preferably unexpectedly) hamper just enough to prevent a loss or a total loosening of the lock. The key here is to make your opponent feel like they've outsmarted you.

Many of these strung together can create a "carrot on a stick" feel; you keep victory close enough to your opponent that they feel like they can steal a locked game from you "if they can just break through here", except you are always aware of the direction they're running and can move the carrot accordingly. This technique is also quite nice to use alongside a few Idiot Moves, since you might be able to convince your opponent that you are not as skilled with Lantern as you truly are.

Example 1
To build on the first example from the Idiot Move, let's say you have allowed your opponent to draw two Steel Overseers after some hemming and hawing over if they will impact the board state. You sit at 5 life with plenty of mana available. Your opponent goes to attack after taking a moment to count, and you nonchalantly acknowledge the attack before they tap their Overseers to put 2 +1/+1 counters on their creatures, yielding an Ornithopter at 3 power and a Pest at 2. After acting surprised and asking if they have any responses, you use a Shredder to regrow Decay to kill their Signal Pest, and go down to 2 life.

Example 2
You are against a Temur deck utilizing Huntmaster of the Fells as one topend against you. After brief consideration, you allow them to draw their Huntmaster just as you assemble your lock, which they slam down in the hopes of riding it to victory. You then prioritize finding your Inventors' Fair to stem the bleeding as your opponent whittles your life total down. Eventually, sitting at 1 or 2 life with an impending flip from Huntmaster, you resolve an Infernal Tutor into Dispatch and remove the threat. Of course now, you're just one Bolt away from death!

Example 3
You're against Jund and have a 2x lock. You see Dark Confidant on top their deck and begrudgingly allow them to draw it — at least it's not a Decay or a Kommand. You spend a few turns fighting against their attempts at flipping Pulse or something while you eventually find your third (and maybe fourth) rock to properly manage the Confidant. Perhaps you even let a Decay or two slip through, once you've built up a bit of redundancy, but at some point, all that Confidant is doing is eating up their life total. You allow them to draw a Bolt at some point, which hits their own Bob when they're at low enough life.

Consequences: Deckbuilding
I argue that, in order to take full advantage of these techniques, there are a small number of deckbuilding constraints you must adhere to. These are not mandatory, and are simply my suggestions.

Do not use any "wincon" cards mainboard. Anything from Mechanized Production to Ghirapur Aether Grid to Tezzeret AoB to Thopter Sword shouldn't be mainboarded. Once your opponents see that you have a potential way to close the game, they're much more likely to concede due to an imminent potential loss, even if you don't use these cards to actually close the game.
Have ways to answer many kinds of situations outside of the Lantern lock. Whir does this quite nicely with the Pyrite / Cage / Orb package, although Pyrite is risky for the reason I mentioned above. My solution in Golgari is to run Infernal Tutor with a variety of potential targets, like Dispatch, Surgical, Ruins, and Jar. Keeping a weak lock and answering problems in other ways both consumes a lot of time and means your opponent retains some hope of eventually breaking through the lock.
I'll also present a corollary here. I feel this corollary applies to all Lantern pilots regardless of build and play style, but is particularly pertinent when using these delay tactics.

Have a variety of "wincon" cards in your sideboard. There is a nonzero chance that something unexpected will happen and your opponent will take G1 even through a well-established lock. Or they might just win G1 through a grindfest and leave limited time to finish the remaining games. In these situations, you need to steal G2 quickly to convert a lost match into a tie (or even potential win); the best way to do this is to side in a number of trump cards that allow you to accomplish this goal quickly. To this end, I run no less than three wincons in my sideboard (Mindshrieker, Ghirapur Aether Grid, and Tezzeret Agent of Bolas), although you may of course vary both the number and constitution of your wincons to suit your playstyle and meta. Keep in mind that these cards must be able to win you the game from a neutral-to-unfavored position and must provide significant utility outside winning the game.
Consequences: Practical
There are other kinds of prices you must pay to adequately use these tactics. Here's what you need to know to adequately prepare your physical loadout, psyche, and body for proper usage of delay tactics. A lot of this is just general tournament advice, but I feel it's important to reiterate its importance here, since you will be bearing a mental load greater than just about everyone else there.

Prepare for significant mental fatigue, particularly in tournaments longer than 3-4 rounds. If all goes well, you are going to be playing intense Magic right up until the 50-minute mark hits. Playing Magic all day is hard enough, but spending so much brainpower constructing one mental prison an hour with no rest or breaks is an exceedingly challenging task.

Adequately prepare your body and mind. Get a good night sleep leading up to the event. Eat a large, healthy breakfast. Bring adequate water and healthy food for the event. Use good hygiene and dress smart. You will need to be as sharp as you possibly can to take on this challenge, and taking good care of yourself will both boost your confidence and clear your mind of worry and sluggishness.

Practice meditation or relaxation techniques. Playing so much Magic is stressful and taxing, and you'll certainly feel it as you progress through the event. Remember to take a minute or two when you get the chance, in order to relax your mind, refocus your psyche, and allow negative emotions and energy to flow outwards and be replaced by positivity and confidence. Doing so will refocus your mind, keep external worries at bay, and prevent matches from flowing into each other.

You will have little to no time in between rounds. When you're planning on every round going to time, you must make sure you are adequately prepared to pack up and travel quickly.

Travel light and organized. Make sure you have a suitable bag or backpack to use, and know how all your items fit in it. Make sure you can move quickly through crowds while carrying your loadout.

Prepare for emergencies. You do not want the stress that comes with being under prepared when chaos strikes. Make sure to bring spare dice and sleeves, menstrual products (if applicable), a cellphone (if possible), and spare money (if possible).

Learn your venue. Show up early and familiarize yourself with the layout of the tables and the locations of both the match timer and the pairings sheet(s). Make a plan for bypassing the crowd when pairings are posted.

Don't be afraid to ask for extensions to use the restroom. You might not have a chance to use the restroom for several hours. If you need to go, you need to go. Just call a judge and they'll give you an extension while you relieve yourself.

Get used to being alone. If you have friends present, you'll have little chance to talk with them. (And if you play against them, you might have less friends, too.) If you're the type who likes/needs social interaction, you'll have to try it with your opponent. If you're an introvert, then awesome! This actually works in your favor.

Get used to opponents hating you. This kinda just applies to playing Lantern in general. Opponents will respond to playing against you in a wide variety of ways: feigned indifference, excited interest, mild despondency, genuine bitterness, toxicity of varying severity. Taking your opponent on this emotional roller coaster (both by just playing Lantern at all, but especially by toying with them like this) will have a tendency to breed negative emotions in them. They may act out in various ways. Just keep your cool when they decline your handshake, understand that only they are in control of how they act on their emotions, and call a judge if they threaten you or make derogatory remarks.

Conclusion
Strategically going to time when playing Lantern is a difficult feat to accomplish. It requires you to have a firm read on your opponent, the social finesse to construct an alluring entrapment for their attention, and massive amounts of mental fortitude and patience. However, the payoff — avoiding a potential loss in the second game — can convert otherwise tied or even lost matches into stolen wins.

Remember that this is just one tool in your grand toolbox filled with a large variety of helpful tools. It's up to you to determine when this tool will be useful, and when it should not be used. If you believe your opponent won't buy your crap, then don't feed it to them! Close out the game quickly instead, so you can have a shot at winning G3 if it comes to that.

Keep your wits about you and give 'em hell. And also remember, if your opponent concedes despite your best efforts, simply move on and do your best in the second game. Just try to win quickly so you can finally eat the snack you brought with you.

104.3a. A player can concede the game at any time.
Attribution
Though I doubt I was the first person to have this idea, I may be the first to seriously test it and share results. I will edit this section if I find anything different.

† I'm hoping to establish #x as a notation for the strength of a lock. For example, a 3x lock is any lock with three activations available. This could mean Lantern + 2 Shredder + Bell, Lantern + 2 Pyxis + Shredder, or even Lantern + Mindshrieker + 6 land.

Edits
1) Fixing typos (thanks ImmortalFabio!)

2) Added Mardu Hateblade quote.

3) Removed a section ("No Shortcuts") that violated the MTR and updated the Takeaways section to emphasize that the described behavior is illegal (Thanks Sam Black!)

4) Added a paragraph to the Conclusion to emphasize that this is just one tactic out of many.