/asg/ Newbie FAQ 2.0

So you want to get into airsoft, eh? Well, first thing you've got to realize is that this is a faggot sport played by the most gay assmunchers on the planet. A third dress up to LARP Navy SEAL vs. Spetsnaz, a third try to pretend this is paintball, and the rest are a horrific amalgam of Fudds, furfaggots, and literal children. Embrace it, own it, revel in it, or you'll never have fun. You're not here to be a winner. In airsoft, everyone are losers with toy guns.

>Step 0. Dipping your toes
In any case, before any newbie advice can be doled out, here's the most important bit when you're just starting out:
GO OUT AND DO A WALK-ON RENTAL DAY. Wear comfortable but sturdy clothes, and sturdy, closed toed shoes you can get dirty and won't make you roll your ankle.
I know some of you might have played airsoft as a child in back-yards and you already know you like it, but airsoft is as much about who you're playing with as it is about what you're playing. If you find your local fields are full of insufferable cunts who shrug their hits, bad refs and shitty field layouts, or just a bunch of furfaggots, then you're just going to end up not wanting to play no matter how much the idea of airsoft appeals to you, and you'll have an overpriced electrical paperweight. If you haven't already, go do it and make sure you're not gonna waste a few hundred dollars on a hobby you're not even going to enjoy.

There might be more to it than this if you're not in America. Some foreign countries classify airsoft guns as a type of firearm, and so there may be a process to getting your own. In the UK, there's a need to be part of a club before you can buy your own airsoft gun. This is another good reason to attend a walk-on game with a rental: you can ask the locals about what rules and regulations you need to be aware of before getting your own gear.

>Step 1. Getting an airsoft gun
There are many ways to get into the sport on the cheap, but if you're willing to drop some dosh, you get what you pay for. Your first gun should be a reflection first of the kinds of environments you're playing in, since bringing a full-length FAL to an indoor arena with tight corridors is about as dumb as bringing a pistol to an open outdoor field with long engagement distances. Next is figuring out your budget. Typically, you should set aside a minimum $250 for your gun, eye protection, battery, a quality fast charger, and extra magazines. You can get away with far less than this, or spend far more, but for your standard starter set-up where you're not sure what you want to do yet, this is a good rule of thumb minimum. See the Appendix A. [Newfag Gun Guide] below to get broad specifics on different new guns.

>Step 2. Getting gear
Now that you have your gun, you'll want to get gear to support it. The ABSOLUTE MINIMUM is enough gear to protect your face. An anzi-rated paintball mask is a great, relatively cheap way to start out and have fun. You can get away with JUST eye protection too, but you'll always want something to protect your teeth, since dental work isn't pleasant nor cheap. See Appendix B. [Newfag Gear Guide] below for what protective gear you need most.

From here, you'll have free reign to decide on what gear suits you, based on your budget and environment. If you're just going basic bitch tier starter, then it's enough to just put a spare high-cap in your jeans pocket, but if you're using mid-caps or a pistol, you'll want some sort of gear to hold the extra magazines. What you choose to buy also highly depends on your comfort and budget, as more gear means more money. At an absolute minimum, ensuring you have a pair of quality footwear, kneepads, and gloves is the most effective way to ensure comfort and injury prevention on the field.

It's also important not to over-equip. Simple $15 Mechanix fast-fits will work about as well at preventing bleeding knuckles as gloves with plastic or rubber knuckle protection. Having a plate carrier setup with more pouches than you'll use means there are more ways to catch or snag on branches or other field obstacles without any clear benefit for trade-off. Certainly, you should purchase quality gear with good stitching as your budget allows, but you can get that from military surplus as easily as you can get it from hypebeast-inflated gear manufacturers. Unless you have a specific look or unit impression you're attempting to achieve (and as a fresh newfag, you shouldn't), it's okay to have ugly, mismatching gear when starting out, as long as it's functional for you.

>Step 3. Clothing
In truth, in most airsoft settings, camo is useless. This is why it's last on the list. Yes, you get to see all the cool videos of dudes in ghillie suits and leafy uniforms popping out of a bush, but at airsoft ranges, most of the time you're going to be able to positively identify a target long before you're going to be able to hit them. Camo matters next to nil in the bigger picture, and you're just better off wearing what's comfortable and sturdy. This might mean getting cammies, but it's not your only option. The most important thing about clothes you airsoft in is you're not afraid to get them dirty and/or torn. If you're going to wince at getting some mud on a set of $300 Crye Precision pants, then you shouldn't get those pants. Buy a cheaper knock-off set and when the stitching fails or they get soaked in mud, you don't feel as bad.

Sometimes local fields host "milsim" events (which is to say that they have a day or two of objective-based pick-up games you pay extra for) and those typically require "Tan" or "Green" outfits. If you plan on going to these events, then getting a reasonably priced uniform is a good investment and can inspire some fun dress-up. Find a pattern that fits within these rules that appeals to you the most, and use that if it's available to you. People talk a lot of shit about the two most popular camos, but you can find OCP multicam and woodland both on the cheap at military surplus stores. These local milsims can kinda suck compared to the larger national-level events, but they're a great entry point to seeing the different kits of your local players, which can give you inspiration for what you'll end up seeking down the line.

>Step 4. Actually playing
Congrats, you did it. You bought all your shit and you're ready to go John Rambo on a 12yo's birthday party. Just some quick advice before you go make some children cry:
A. CALL YOUR HITS - I know it can be easy to hit shrug, and I know that asshole in the JPC thinks his real Level IVs make him invincible, but by far, you'll make more friends and positive relationships by trying to be the best sport on the field. Airsoft is a courtesy game, so over anything, please have some courtesy and be the player you want to see on the field.

B. I GET YOU DON'T LIKE MED AND BANG RULES, BUT SUCK IT UP - I get it, no one likes the dumb arguments about he said she said bang-bang, etc. I get that it can be difficult to judge minimum engagement distance (MED). I get that you're willing to take the hits up close, but those rules aren't for you. They're for the insurance company that's terrified of Karen suing after her little Jimmy pops a BB out of his arm. They're for the field to enforce good sportsmanship and ease point-blank related salt. They're so you can keep going to the field week by week.

C. HAVE FUN - You're spending all this time and money assembling fake guns and the equipment to shoot them at other people, to go do cringe LARP in some boomer's built-up back yard. The LEAST you can do is have fun with it. The thing about all pretend is that outside of context, it's cringe. If you're worried about someone getting the wrong idea about you for participating in this gay hobby, then do yourself and everyone else a favor and just give up now. The point here is to show up and have a good time, and that starts with attitude. Sometimes you're not gonna have the best time because Johnny Crye is over there shrugging hits and overshooting, but there's one of those dickwads in every hobby, so the best you can do is try to ignore them, let the refs know if they're obviously crossing lines, and keep doing what you think is the right thing. Even if someone else is cringe or being weird, you can always just ignore them. It ain't that serious. It don't matter. None of this matters. Now go have fun.

>Appendix A. [Newfag Gun Guide]
>>Poorfag Tier (<$100)
GOOD:
Springer shotguns [CQB][Hard Mode]: this is really the only way to get away with less than $100 for your initial investment, and only really works for indoor arenas. Tokyo Marui style trishot spring shotguns will shoot 3 bbs at a time at a fairly short range out of shells which hold 30 bbs. There are adapters that let you attach an M4-style magazine, however, so this isn't particularly limiting, even at low costs. This style of airsoft gun also requires no batteries, since it's spring powered, but it also means you have to pump the gun every time you want to shoot. It's very satisfying if you can do well, but also very frustrating if you're new and have to go up against speedsoft kiddies with 2000rps HPA rigs. CYMA makes some of the best shotguns in this category, but you'll be paying a premium for their metal ones. Even with that, your starting costs shouldn't go above $100.

AVOID:
Springer snipers: If you're just starting out, DO NOT START WITH A SNIPER. Cheap snipers especially. Just don't. You won't enjoy it until you've played a bit longer and gained some experience.
LPEGs: short for Low Power Electric Guns, these are the shit clear plastic ones you can find at walmart or conventions. They're shit, they don't shoot very far, and you'll just end up sad. Save yourself the trouble.
AEPs: Auto electric pistols can be a good time for the experienced and tinker-happy, but for the new, they're not much better than small LPEGs.
Cheap Non-BlowBack Pistols: Like LPEGs, NBB pistols on the cheap end have unreliable mechanisms, terrible triggers, fixed hop-ups, and might actually shoot too hot for the ranges they're best at: CQB. Even quality NBB pistols are more the realm of the experienced.

>>Entry Level Tier ($150-$300)
BEST:
CYMA 04X series AK AEGs [Field][CQB]: CYMA has been the storied workhorse of starter AEGs for some years now, and not without reason: their gearboxes are tanks, their externals on the 04X series guns are steel, and they're cheap as dirt, often selling for less than $200 retail. Frequently they'll come with a battery and a wall charger too, but you'll want to get your own smart charger and some higher quality batteries. If you're planning on using one for CQB, it may require a spring change, as the stock springs will shoot fairly hot.

GOOD:
G&G Combat Machine [Field][CQB]: G&G have upped their prices in the last few years, so expect to pay a bit more, and only for polymer externals, but the flip-side is that their guns are extremely light and they have some pretty solid internals.
JG AUG [Field][CQB]: If you want something a little more snowflake, the AUG is a good option, with a standardized gearbox, a bullpup configuration, and licensing via ASG.
Echo1 Gat/Spectre [CQB]: Echo1 tends to rebrand most of their wares from CYMA, JG, and other companies with some light upgrades, but the best ones to keep an eye out for are the Gat and the Spectre. Very small and compact, they make solid CQB guns with accuracy comparable to most other entry level airsoft guns. On the downside, they're very limiting in battery space.
Any Other CYMA [Field][CQB]: The CYMAs not in the 04X series are all viable, from the cheapo AK Betas to their M4s and MP5s, CYMA guns are all pretty solid for their price point. But keep in mind that most of their non-04X series metal guns are made of cheap zinc alloy that's overly heavy and prone to cracking and other problems. This is the primary risk of cheap full metal guns, but if you end up with a CYMA, you could definitely do worse.

OKAY:
Gas Blow Back Pistols [CQB][Hard Mode]: GBB Pistols can be got for relatively cheap for a decent price, and the mechanical nature means you don't have to worry about taking apart a gearbox to fix a problem. That said, there are hidden costs. Extra magazines (and you'll want lots if you're using one as your primary to make up for the lack of capacity) are costly and require maintenance. That said, if you already shoot real firearms regularly, the satisfaction of gas blowback can't be beat. If you can get a CO2 verion, that would probably be best, just consider that they do require maintenance and care that AEGs do not. Sometimes pistols are required to shoot without MED at some fields, so if you have money left over, they MIGHT be a worthwhile investment if you're finding yourself in close quarters.

AVOID:
Anything with a sportline label: Yes, these guns will perform and you'll have some fun, but internally and externally they're a significant downgrade from proline guns that can be had for just a bit more.
Non-CYMA AKs: There are DBOYs and JG AKs that will do fine, but often times it's just easier to go for what you know won't end up a lemon. Do yourself a favor and just go with CYMA if you can.

>>Normalfag Tier ($300-$450)
BEST:
LCT [Field][CQB]: Pretty much anything by LCT airsoft is good to go. Their AKs are the gold standard, sporting quality steel externals, nigh-indestructible gearboxes, quality components, and tightbore barrels from the factory. And they make M4s and stamped HK guns as well of equally high quality. Usually, the only weak point in these are the lethargic motors, but that's a pretty quick swap. They'll also likely need a spring swap for CQB.
E&L [Field][CQB]: The best known competitor to LCT, E&L presumably make their AKs using real Chinese AK tooling. Comparable in externals and internals (Gen 2 onwards), they do fall short in finishing, opting for a more traditional AK finish that requires oiling to prevent rust. Still great options if they're in stock, though their range of different guns is smaller.
G&P M4s [Field][CQB]: By modern standards, their gearboxes could use some work, but G&P M4 externals are the gold standard. In the end, they're basically upgrade platforms, so plan accordingly. Still, out of the box they perform to expectations for a mid-tier full-metal M4, and they have lots of different options for configuration.

GOOD:
Tokyo Marui base guns [CQB]: Plastic, and shoot no more than 1J, but have moonrune magic built into them and are surprisingly accurate and long-ranged for their power.
Classic Army Proline models [Field][CQB][LMG]: Something of a hidden gem, Classic Army have a bunch of reasonably priced guns that are slightly rarer, like HK stamped guns, M249s, FALs, and SR25s. Nothing to write home about internally, but they're reasonably accurate and provide a different look.
Really anything with a Proline label [Field][CQB]: Most guns that have a proline label will tend to perform about as well as anyone could ask. They might not drive nails like a well tuned and upgraded gun with a grand put into it, but you won't be disadvantaged in most situations for it.
Krytac Alpha [Field][CQB]: Basically the "sportline" for Krytac M4s, the Alphas have full metal externals and high quality internals. If you want the fancy starter M4, this is pretty much what you're looking for.

OKAY:
GBB SMGs [CQB]: Like pistols, these are great for CQB, but also like pistols, you're going to be paying for those magazines. If you've got the dosh for mags and gas, they're loads of fun, and a package with a lot of mags holds its value pretty well.

>>Richfag Tier ($500+) - I don't think most people are going to buy their first gun at this price point, but it's worth listing them
BEST:
Tokyo Marui Next Gen Recoil System: Touted by Travis Haley as a training tool, NGRS guns are the gucciest AEGs money can buy, combining Japanese airsoft magic with a robust and fun recoil system.
GHK GBBRs: If you're looking to spend all your money on the feeling of shooting a real gun, GHK make the best GBBRs out there, with available CO2 mags and a robust aftermarket for when your full auto sear or trigger group inevitably fails. Yes, these require a whole lot more care and money than AEGs, but GBBR diehards swear by their guns. If you're not invested in that, these aren't for you, though.

GOOD:
Various high-end snowflake guns: Guns like the Kriss Vector from Krytac and the ASG Scorpion Evo set themselves apart looks-wise, but also bring a lot of high-end parts for their high end price. If you MUST be the most different at the field, these guns will work, but bear in mind, there are collectors with more money than sense which will show up with the same guns from time to time. No way to truly be a snowflake in this hobby.

>Appendix B. [Newfag Gear Guide]
PROTECTIVE GEAR:
Eye protection [required] - you need to keep those orbs in your skull, so get quality eyepro. Anything that's ANZI Z87.1 rated will do fine. Most fields in the US will require your eyepro be full seal as well, so make sure they have a gasket like a set of goggles. Mesh eyepro may also be accepted, but it's generally not a great idea. BBs have a tendency to shatter and fragment, so you could end up with plastic particulate getting into your eyes over time.

Dental Protection [optional][recommended]: BBs will also shoot out teeth, so getting something that will protect your face is important too. Paintball masks are the best all-in-one for new players, and most fields will pass out paintball masks for their rentals. This can make it harder to aim, however, so there are other options, such as separate face-masks made of mesh or plastic, small bits of metal mesh sewn into balaclavas, or even just a mouthguard. Some players risk it with just a cloth face covering, like a balaclava or a neck gaiter, or throw caution to the wind with no covering at all. This isn't recommended, as the extra comfort isn't really worth the dental bill

Ear protection [optional]: This largely depends on your field and conditions. In most cases, earpro is entirely unnecessary, as even airsoft pyrotechnic grenades aren't loud enough to cause any permanent damage in outside conditions. That said, if you're indoors, or up against powerful blank grenades, earpro might be a good investment in the long-term.

Joint protection [optional]: Because of the nature of the game, kneeling is a fairly common thing, and nothing sucks more than having to kneel in mud, on a sharp rock, or the worst: on a single bb on a concrete floor. Kneepads help quite a lot with this. Even just one on your right or left knee can do wonders for comfort. Even soft foam kneepads work great. Elbow pads can help protect your arms from jamming into walls or doors, but generally are less universally useful. It's up to you to decide what's most comfortable.

Foot protection [optional][recommended]: Indoors, this is less specific. At indoor-only fields, any well-fitting athletic shoes will do, but when you're at outdoor fields, you'll want a pair of good boots. I cannot emphasize enough: NEVER CHEAP OUT ON YOUR BOOTS. Yes, many quality boots can be found for a good price, but generally, you should be looking for something that will protect your feet and keep them dry. Standard combat boots are terrible for this. Instead, go to a camping goods store like REI and find a pair of quality hikers that feel comfortable and come from a brand with a good rep. Chances are your favorite special forces unit probably has a guy wearing a pair of these right now. You can also use these boots for every-day use outside of airsoft, making it easier to justify the higher prices.