I would imagine its a matter of timing, too. Winbonds seem to be a little more stable/less glitchy.

The Winbond manual explicit tells, on powerup/reset no instructions are recognized (Table 7 Fig.18) until timedelay tPUW.
Then you need to get WEL to "1" via Probe and set software Write Status Register with sekil´s tool or JF.

Regarding the Probe-Method. It is said, Winbond needs close to 1V DC at C59. Thats a drop of 2,3V from VCC. Using a resistor/pot is - well not that good.

First, it should be at least a 2W resistor/pot (russ.page refers 3,5 - 5.5 Ohm). Otherwise you might burn the resistor/change its value due of the heat  (power dissipation).

Second problem seems to be we are finding a timing-glitch in the area of some nanoseconds.

If (!) winbond chips need 1,0 V at C59 we should use diodes for the requsted Voltage drop (like mentioned in that brazilian board ) for several reasons.

1. They maintain the high impedance/resitance between C59 and GND. That means no "f***up" with pullup resistors
2.They are switching very fast (nS).
3. They are stable when stressed.

I would use either a 1V zenerdiode with min. 1,3W, or 2 diodes in series (added foreward Voltage) like a 1n4007 (VF ~0,7) in series with a schottky diode BAT 41-46 (VF ~0.3).

And for sure the "Voltage-Drop-Hack" needs to be followed by software a "Write Status Register instruction". I dont know if these are alreade included in latest JF or only in the russian tool.
I think its interesting that following TX´s Tutorial you MUST use the PHAT-Button to flash 0225 and 0401 LT´s. 9504 need the SLIM-Button.


Good Luck,
snyder80